THE TRAILMAKERS OF 
CANADA 



INTRODUCTION 



Champlain had pushed as far as Lake 

- Huron and the Georgian Bay. Before the 

''^^ end of the seventeenth century French ex- 

^ plorers had reached the western end of Lake 

Superior; La Salle had set np the lilies of 

France at the mouth of the Mississippi ; Rad- 

isson had gone overland to James Bay.* 

In the eighteenth century began the ex- 
ploration of the western plains, in which the 
first great name is that of a native-born 
Canadian, Pierre Gualtier de la Verendrye. 
Born at Three Rivers in 1685, La Veren- 
drye early entered the army, saw service in 
Flanders and was left for dead on the field of 
Malplaquet. Returning to Canada he took 
to the fur trade, and from 1731 on he and 
his heroic sons made journey after journey to 
the westward. In 1737 he built a fort on the 
site where is now the city of Winnipeg, and 
in 1742-3 an expedition under his son Pierre 
reached the lodges of the Mandans on the 
Upper Missouri, and saw rise into view the 

* Justin Winsor, Geographical Discovery in th^ 
Interior of ^'orth America, 1534-1698, and Law- 
rence J. Burpee, The Search for the Western Sea, 
give good accounts of the gradual exploration of 
the continent. 

iii 



jagged line of the Kockies. But lacl 
guides compelled the 3^oung explorer to 
back, and the death of La Verendrye in : 
left the mountain barrier still unpierced 
With the expulsion of France from 
continent of North America in 1763, 
Hudson's Bay Company, which had hitt 
confined its operations to the neighbor] 
of Hudson Bay, began to send trading 
exploring parties inland, which gathered ; 
large profits that in 1783-4 the merchani 
Montreal founded in opposition the Nc 
west Fur-Trading Company. The chief 
tories of the older company were on Hui 
Bay, whence the furs were shipped by "w 
to England, but the partners of the North 
Company, most of whom were young and e 
getic Scotchmen, brought their furs fron 
land posts to Montreal by many a winding ] 
and toilsome portage, and so added imp 
to exploration. Among their employees 
Alexander Mackenzie, a sturdy young h 
lander, born at Stornoway in the islani 
Lewis in 1763. After some years in 
counting-house at Montreal, and a yea 
Detroit, Mackenzie came west, and was 
tioned at Fort Chipewyan on Lake Athabf 
Hence on June 3, 1789, he started no 
ward with a small party of Indians; 
July 13th he reached the mouth of the g 

iv 



INTRODUCTION 

river which bears his name; on Sept". 12th 
he was back at his post. Three years later he 
essayed an even bolder journey. On Oct. 
10, 1792, he set out along the valley of the 
Peace, and wintered near the mouth of 
Smoky Eiver; in the spring he struggled on 
to the Fraser, but after descending it for 
some distance left it for a last dash across 
country, and after a thousand perils splen- 
didly surmounted by himself and his French- 
Canadian Voyageurs, on July 20, 1793, he 
came out on the shores of the Pacific. (See 
vol. ii., p. 282.) The problem of Cartier, of 
Champlain, of La Verendrye was solved at 
last; the continent had been crossed; the 
great South Sea was won. Agamemnon's 
was a small heroism compared to that of this 
Scottish fur-trader. 

Mackenzie's later life was prosperous and 
turbulent. He returned with a competence 
to London, where in 1801 he published his 
voyages in a large quarto volume, dedicated 
to King George III. In the following year 
he was knighted. Soon afterward he re- 
turned to Canada, and was a prominent mem- 
ber of the X. Y. Co., which was for some 
years a vigorous rival of the older companies, 
but which in 1804-5 united with the North- 
west Company. He was elected to the parlia- 
ment of Lower Canada as member for Hunt- 



INTRODUCTION 

ingdon, but made no special mark. A few 
years later he retired to Scotland, married 
and bought an estate in Eosshire, on which he 
resided till his death in March, 1820. 

W. L. Grant. 



n 



Preface. 

On presenting this Volume to my Country^ 
it is not necessary to enter into a particular 
account of those voyages whose journals form 
the principal part of it, as they will be found, 
I trust, to explain themselves. It appears, 
liowever, to be a duty, which the Public have 
a right to expect from me, to state the reasons 
which have influenced me in delaying the 
publication of them. 

It has been asserted, that a misunderstand- 
ing between a person high in office and my- 
self, was the cause of this procrastination. 
It has also been propagated, that it was oc- 
<}asioned by that precaution which the policy 
of commerce will sometimes suggest; but 
they are both equally devoid of foundation. 
The one is an idle tale ; and there could be 
no solid reason for concealing the circum- 
stances of discoveries, whose arrangements 
and prosecution were so honourable to my 
associates and myself, at whose expense they 
were undertaken. The delay actually arose 
from the very active and busy mode of life in 
which I was engaged since the voyages have 
been completed; and when, at length, the 
opportunity arrived, the apprehension of pre- 
vii 



PREFACE. 

senting myself to the Public in the character 
of an Author, for which the course and oc- 
cupations of my life have by no means quali- 
fied me, made me hesitate in committing my 
papers to the Press ; being much better cal- 
culated to perform the voyages, arduous as 
they might be, than to write an account of 
them. However, they are now offered to the 
Public with the submission that becomes me. 
I was led, at an early period of life, by 
commercial views, to the country North- West 
of Lake Superior, in North America, and be- 
^ ing endowed by Nature with an inquisitive 
mind and enterprising spirit ; possessing also 
a constitution and frame of body equal to the 
most arduous undertakings, and being familiar 
with toilsome exertions in the prosecution of 
mercantile pursuits, I not only contemplated 
the practicability of penetrating across the 
continent of America, but was confident in 
the qualifications, as I was animated by the 
desire, to undertake the perilous enterprise. 

The general utility of such a discovery, 
has been universally acknowledged; while 
the wishes of my particular friends and com- 
mercial associates, that I should proceed in 
the pursuit of it, contributed to quicken the 
execution of this favourite project of my own 
ambition : and as the completion of it extends 
the boundaries of geographic science, and 
adds new countries to the realms of British 
viii 



PREFACE. 

commerce, the dangers I have encountered, 
and the toils I have suffered, have found 
their recompence ; nor will the many tedious 
and weary days, or the gloomy and inclement 
nights which I have passed, have been passed 
in vain. 

The first voyage has settled the dubious 
point of a practicable North-West passage; 
and I trust it has set that long agitated ques- 
tion at rest, and extinguished the disputes 
respecting it for ever. An enlarged discus- 
sion of that subject will be found to occupy 
the concluding pages of this volume. 

In this voyage, I was not only without the 
necessary books and instruments, but also 
felt myself deficient in the sciences of as- 
tronomy and navigation ; I did not hesitate, 
therefore, to undertake a winter's voyage to 
this country, in order to procure the one, and 
acquire the other. These objects being ac- 
complished, I returned, to determine the 
practicability of a commercial communication 
through the continent of North America, be- 
tween the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, which 
is proved by my second journal. Nor do I 
hesitate to declare my decided opinion, that 
very great and essential advantages may be 
derived by extending our trade from one sea 
to the other. 

Some account of the fur trade of Canada 
from that country, of the native inhabitants, 
ix 



PREFACE. 

and of the extensive districts connected with 
it, forms a preliminary discourse, which will,, 
I trust, prove interesting to a nation, whose 
general policy is blended with, and whose 
prosperity is supported by, the pursuits of 
commerce. It will also qualify the reader 
to pursue the succeeding voyages with superior 
intelligence and satisfaction. 

These voyages will not, I fear, afford the 
variety that may be expected from them; 
and that which they offered to the eye, is not 
of a nature to be effectually transferred to 
the page. Mountains and valleys, the dreary 
waste, and the wide-spreading forests, the 
lakes and rivers succeed each other in general 
description ; and, except on the coasts of the 
Pacific Ocean, where the villages were per- 
manent, and the inhabitants in a great meas- 
ure stationary, small bands of wandering 
Indians are the only people whom I shall 
introduce to the acquaintance of my readers. 

The beaver and the buffalo, the moose-deer 
and the elk, which are the principal animals 
to be found in these countries, are already so 
familiar to the naturalists of Europe, and 
have been so often as well as correctly de- 
scribed in their works, that the bare mention 
of them, as they enlivened the landscape, or 
were hunted for food; with a cursory ac- 
count of the soil, the course and navigation of 
lakes and rivers, and their various produce, 

X 



PREFACE. 

is all that can be reasonably expected from 
me. 

I do not possess the science of the natural- 
ist; and even if the qualifications of that 
character had been attained by me, its curious 
spirit would not have been gratified. I could 
not stop to dig into the earth, over whose 
surface I was compelled to pass with rapid 
steps ; nor could I turn aside to collect the 
plants which nature might have scattered on 
the way, when my thoughts were anxiously 
employed in making provision for the day 
that was passing over me. I had to encounter 
perils by land and perils by water ; to watch 
the savage who was our guide, or to guard 
against those of his tribe who might meditate 
our destruction. I had, also, the passions 
and fears of others to control and subdue. 
To-day, I had to assuage the rising discon- 
tents, and on the morrow, to cheer the faint- 
ing spirits of the people who accompanied 
me. The toil of our navigation was inces- 
sant, and oftentimes extreme; and in our 
progress over land, we had no protection from 
the severity of the elements, and possessed 
no accommodations or conveniences but such 
as could be contained in the burden on our 
shoulders, which aggravated the toils of our 
inarch, and added to the wearisomeness of 
our way. 

Though the events which compose my 
xi 



PREFACE. 

journals may have little in themselves to 
strike the imagination of those who love to 
be astonished, or to gratify the curiosity of 
such as are enamoured of romantic adventures ; 
nevertheless, when it is considered, that I 
explored those waters which had never before 
borne any other vessel than the canoe of the 
savage ; and traversed those deserts where an 
European had never before presented himself 
to the eye of its swarthy natives ; when to 
these considerations are added the important 
objects which were pursued, with the dangers 
that were encountered, and the difficulties 
that were surmounted to attain them, this 
work will, I flatter myself, be found to excite 
an interest, and conciliate regard, in the 
minds of those who peruse it. 

The general map which illustrates this vol- 
ume, is reduced by Mr. Arrowsmith from his 
three-sheet map of North America, with the 
latest discoveries, which he is about to re- 
publish. His professional abilities are well 
known, and no encomium of mine will ad- 
vance the general and merited opinion of them. 

Before I conclude, I must beg leave to in- 
form my readers, that they are not to expect 
the charms of embellished narrative, or ani- 
mated description; the approbation due to 
simplicity and to truth, is all I presume to 
claim; and I am not without the hope that 
this claim will be allowed me. I have de- 
xii 



scribed whatever I saw with the impressions 
of the moment which presented it to me. 
The successive circumstances of my progress 
are related without exaggeration or display. 
I have seldom allowed myself to wander into 
conjecture; and whenever conjecture has 
been indulged, it will be found, I trust, to 
be accompanied with the temper of a man 
who is not disposed to think too highly of 
himself : and if, at any time, I have delivered 
myself with confidence, it will appear, I hope, 
to be on those subjects, which, from the 
habits and experience of my life, will justify 
an unreserved communication of my opinions. 
I am not a candidate for literary fame ; at 
the same time, I cannot but indulge the hope 
that this volume, with all its imperfections, 
will not be thought unworthy the attention 
of the scientific geographer; and that, by 
unfolding countries hitherto unexplored, and 
which, I presume, may now be considered as 
a part of the British dominions, it will be 
received as a faithful tribute to the prosperity 
of my country. 

ALEXANDER MACKENZIE. 

London, 
Kovember 30, 1801. 



Xlll 



Table of Contents. 

CHAPTER I. 

Embarked at Fort Chepewyan, on the Lake of the 
Hills, in company with M. Le Roux. Account 
of the party, provisions, etc. Direction of the 
course. Enter one of the branches of the Lake. 
Arrive in the Peace River. Appearance of the 
land. Navigation of the river. Arrive at the 
mouth of the Dog River. Successive description 
of several carrying places. A canoe lost in one of 
the Falls. Encamp on Point de Roche. Course 
continued. Set the nets, etc. Arrive at the Slave 
Lake. The weather extremely cold. Banks of 
the river described, with its trees, soil, etc. Ac- 
count of the Cjuimal productions, and the fishery 
of the Lake. Obliged to wait till the moving of 
the ice. Three families of Indians arrive from 
Athabasca. Beavers, geese, and swans killed. 
The nets endangered by ice. Re-embark and land 
on a small island. Course continued along the 
shores, and across the bays of the Lake. Various 
successes of the hunters. Steer for an island where 
there was plenty of cranberries and small onions. 
Kill several reindeer. Land on an island named 
Isle a la Cache. Clouds of mosquitoes . . 193 

CHAPTER 11. 

Landed at some lodges of Red-Knife Indians: pro 
cure one of them to assist in navigating the bays 
Conference with the Indians. Take leave of M 
XV 



CONTENTS. 

Le Roux, and continue the voyage. Different 
appearances of the land; its vegetable produce. 
Visit an island where the wood had been felled. 
Further description of the coast. Plenty of rein- 
and moose-deer, and white partridges. Enter a 
very deep bay. Interrupted by ice. Very blow- 
ing weather. Continue to cross the bay. Arrive 
at the mouth of a river. Great numbers of fish 
and wild-fowl. Description of the land on either 
side. Curious appearance of woods that had been 
burned. Came in sight of the Horn Mountain. 
Continue to kill geese and swans, etc. Violent 
storm 211 

CHAPTER ni. 

Continued our course. The river narrows. Lost 
the lead. Passed a small river. Violent rain. 
Land on a small island. Expect to arrive at the 
rapid. Conceal two bags of pemmican in an 
island. A view of mountains. Pass several en- 
campments of the natives. Arrive among the 
islands. Ascend a high hill. Violence of the 
current. Ice seen along the banks of the river. 
Land at village of the natives. Their conduct 
and appearance. Their fabulous stories. The 
English chief and Indians discontented. Obtain 
a new guide. Singular customs of the natives. 
An account of their dances. Description of their 
persons, dress, ornaments, buildings, arms for war 
and hunting, canoes, etc. Passed on among isl- 
ands. Encamped beneath a hill, and prevented 
from ascending by the mosquitoes. Landed at an 
encampment. Conduct of the inhabitants. They 
abound in fabulous accounts of dangers. Land 
at other encampments. Procure plenty of hares 
and partridges. Our guide anxious to return. 
Land and alarm the natives, called the Hare In- 
xvi 



CONTENTS. 

dians, etc. Exchange our guide. State of the 
weather 224 

CHAPTER IV. 

The new guide makes his escape. Compel another 
to supply his place. Land at an encampment of 
another tribe of Indians. Account of their man- 
ners, dress, weapons, etc. Traffic with them. 
Description of a beautiful fish. Engage another 
guide. His carious behaviour. Kill a fox and 
ground-hog. Land at an encampment of a tribe 
called the Degutbee Denees, or Quarrellers. Saw 
flax growing wild. The varying character of the 
river and its banks. Distant mountains. Per- 
plexity from the numerous channels of the river. 
Determined to proceed. Land where there had 
been an encampment of the Esquimaux. Saw 
large flocks of wild-fowl. View of the sun at 
midnight. Description of a place lately deserted 
by the Indians. Houses of the natives described. 
Frequent showers. Saw a black fox. The dis- 
contents of our hunters renewed, and pacified. 
Face of the country. Land at a spot lately inhab- 
ited. Peculiar circumstances of it. Arrive at the 
entrance of the lake. Proceed to an island. Some 
account of it 248 

CHAPTER V. 

The baggage removed from the rising of the water. 
One of the nets driven away by the wind and 
current. Whales are seen. Go in pursuit of 
them, but prevented from continuing it by the 
fog. Proceed to take a view of the ice. Canoe 
in danger from the swell. Examine the islands. 
Describe one of them. Erect a post to perpetuate 
our visit there. The rising of tlie water appears 
to be the tide. Successful fishing. Uncertain 
2 xvii 



CONTENTS. 

weather. Sail among the islands. Proceed to a 
river. Temperature of the air improves. Land 
on a small island, which is a place of sepulture. 
Description of it. See a great number of wild- 
fowl. Fine view of the river from the high land. 
The hunters kill reindeer. Cranberries, etc. , found 
in great plenty. The appearance and state of the 
country. Our guide deserts. Large flight of 
geese ; kill many of them. Violent rain. Return 
up the river. Leave the channels for the main 
stream. Obliged to tow the canoe. Land among 
the natives. Circumstances concerning them. 
Their account of the Esquimaux Indians. Ac- 
company the natives to their huts. Account of 
our provisions 268 

CHAPTER VI. 

Employ the towing line. Description of a place 
where the Indians come to collect flint. Their 
shyness and suspicions. Current lessons. Ap- 
pearance of the country. Abundance of hares. 
Violent storm. Land near three lodges. Alarm 
of the Indians. Supply of fish from them. Their 
fabulous accounts. Continue to see Indian lodges. 
Treatment of a disease. Misunderstanding with 
the natives. The interpreter harangues them. 
Their accounts similar to those we have already 
received. Their curious conduct. Purchase some 
beaver skins. Shoot one of their dogs. The conse- 
quence of that act. Apprehensions of the women. 
Large quantities of liquorice. Swallows' nests 
seen in the precipices. Fall in with a party of the 
natives killing geese. Circumstances concerning 
them. Hurricane. Variation of the weather. 
Kill great numbers of geese. Abundance of sev- 
eral kinds of berries. State of the river and its 

bank 287 

xviii 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER VII. 

Voyage continued. Suspect the integrity of the 
interpreter. Stars visible. Springs of mineral 
water, and lumps of iron ore. Arrive at the river 
of the Bear Lake. Coal mine in a state of com- 
bustion. Water of the river diminished. Con- 
tinue to see Indian encampments, and kill geese, 
etc. Hunting excursions. A canoe found on the 
edge of the wood. Attempt to ascend a moun- 
tain. Account of the passage to it. See a few of 
the natives. Kill a beaver and some hares. De- 
sign of the English chief. Kill a wolf. Change- 
able state of the weather. Recover the pemmican, 
which had been hidden in an island. Natives fly 
at our approach. Meet with dogs. Altercation 
with the English chief. Account of the articles 
left by the fugitives. Shoals of the river covered 
with saline matter. Encamp at the mouth of the 
river of the mountain. The ground on fire on 
each side of it. Continue to see encampments of 
the natives. Various kinds of berries. Kill geese, 
swans, etc., etc., etc. Corroding quality of the 
water. Weather changeable. Reach the entrance 
of the Slave Lake. Dangers encountered on en- 
tering it. Caught pike and trout. Met M. Le 
Roux on the lake. Further circumstances till our 
return to Fort Chepewyan. Conclusion of the 
voyage 306 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Leave Fort Chepewyan. Proceed to the Peace 
River. State of the Lakes. Arrive at Peace 
Point. The reason assigned for its name. The 
weather cold. Arrive at the Falls. Description 
of the country. Land at the Fort, called The Old 



CONTENTS. 

Establishment. The principal building destroyed 
by tire. Course of the river. Arrive at another 
fort. Some account of the natives. Depart from 
thence. Course of the river continued. It divides 
into two branches. Proceed along the principal 
one. Land at the place of our winter's residence 
Account of its circumstances and inhabitants, etc 
Preparations for erecting a fort, etc., etc. Table 
of the weather. Broke the thermometer. Frost 
sets in. Description of birds. . . . 339 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

OF THE 

FUR TRADE FROM CANADA 
TO THE NORTH-WEST. 

The fur trade, from the earliest settlement 
of Canada, was considered of the first im- 
portance to that colony. The country was 
then so populous, that, in the vicinity of the 
establishments, the animals whose skins were 
precious, in a commercial view, soon became 
very scarce, if not altogether extinct. They 
were, it is true, hunted at former periods, 
but merely for food and clothing. The In- 
dians, therefore, to procure the necessary 
supply, were encouraged to penetrate into 
the country, and were generally accompanied 
by some of the Canadians, who found means 
to induce the remotest tribes of natives to 
bring the skins which were most in demand, 
to their settlements, in the way of trade. 

It is not necessary for me to examine the 
cause, but experience proves that it requires 
much less time for a civilized people to de- 
viate into the manners and customs of savage 
life, than for savages to rise into a state of 
civilisation. Such was the event witli those 
xxi 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

who thus accompanied the natives on their 
hunting and trading excursions; for they 
became so attached to the Indian mode of 
life, that they lost all relish for their former 
habits and native homes. Hence they de^ 
rived the title of Coureurs des Bois, became 
a kind of pedlars, and were extremely useful 
to the merchants engaged in the fur trade ; 
who gave them the necessary credit to pro- 
ceed on their commercial undertakings. 
Three or four of these people would join 
their stock, put their property into a birch- 
bark canoe, which they worked themselves, 
and either accompanied the natives in their 
excursions, or went at once to the country 
where they knew they were to hunt. At 
length, these voyages extended to twelve or 
fifteen months, when they returned with rich 
cargoes of furs, and followed by great num- 
bers of the natives. During the short time 
requisite to settle their accounts with the 
merchants, and procure fresh credit, they 
generally contrived to squander away all their 
gains, when they returned to renew their 
favourite mode of life : their views being an- 
swered, and their labour sufficiently rewarded, 
by indulging themselves in extravagance and 
dissipation, during the short space of one 
month in twelve or fifteen. 

This indifference about amassing property, 
and the pleasure of living free from all re- 
xxii 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

straint, soon brought on a licentiousness of 
manners which could not long escape the 
vigilant observation of the missionaries, who 
had much reason to complain of their being 
a disgrace to the Christian religion ; by not 
only swerving from its duties themselves, but 
by thus bringing it into disrepute with those 
of the natives who had become converts to 
it; and, consequently, obstructing the great 
object to which those pious men had devoted 
their lives. They therefore exerted their in- 
fluence to procure the suppression of these 
people, and accordingly, no one was allowed 
to go up the country to traffic with the In- 
dians, without a license from the government. 

At first these permissions were, of course, 
granted only to those whose character was 
such as could give no alarm to the zeal of the 
missionaries : but they were afterwards be- 
stowed as rewards for services, on officers, 
and their widows; and they, who were not 
willing or able to make use of them (which 
may be supposed to be always the case with 
those of the latter description), were allowed 
to sell them to the merchants, who neces- 
sarily employed the Coureurs des bois, in 
quality of their agents ; and these people, as 
may be imagined, gave sufficient cause for the 
renewal of former complaints ; so that the rem- 
edy proved, in fact, worse than the disease. 

At length, military posts were established 
xxiii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

at the confluence of the different large lakes 
of Canada, which, in a great measure checked 
the evil consequences that followed from the 
improper conduct of these foresters, and, at 
the same time, protected the trade. Besides, 
a number of able and respectable men, retired 
from the army, prosecuted the trade in per- 
son, under their respective licences, with 
great order and regularity, and extended it 
to such a distance, as, in those days, was 
considered to be an astonishing effort of com- 
mercial enterprize. These persons and the 
missionaries having combined their views at 
the same time, secured the respect of the 
natives, and the obedience of the people neces- 
sarily employed in the laborious parts of this 
undertaking. These gentlemen denominated 
themselves commanders, and not traders, 
though they were entitled to both those char- 
acters : and, as for the missionaries, if suffer- 
ings and hardships in the prosecution of the 
great work which they had undertaken, de- 
served applause and admiration, they had an 
undoubted claim to be admired and applauded : 
they spared no labour and avoided no danger 
in the execution of their important office ; 
and it is to be seriously lamented, that their 
pious endeavours did not meet with the suc- 
cess which they deserved ; for there is hardly 
a trace to be found beyond the cultivated 
parts, of their meritorious functions, 
xxiv 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

The cause of this failure must be attributed 
to a want of due consideration in the mode 
employed by the missionaries, to propagate 
the religion of which they were the zealous 
ministers. They habituated themselves to 
the savage life, and naturalized themselves 
to the savage manners, and, by thus becoming 
dependent, as it were, on the natives, they 
acquired their contempt rather than their ven- 
eration. If they had been as well acquainted 
with human nature, as they were with the 
articles of their faith, they would have known 
that the uncultivated mind of an Indian must 
be disposed by much preparatory method and 
instruction to receive the revealed truths of 
Christianity, to act under its sanctions, and 
be impelled to good by the hope of its re- 
ward, or turned from evil by the fear of its 
punishments. They should have begun their 
work by teaching some of those useful arts 
which are the inlets of knowledge, and lead 
the mind by degrees to objects of higher com- 
prehension. Agriculture, so formed to fix 
and combine society, and so preparatory to 
objects of superior consideration, should have 
been the first thing introduced among a sav- 
age people : it attaches the wandering tribe 
to that spot where it adds so much to their 
comforts; while it gives them a sense of 
property, and of lasting possession, instead 
of the uncertain hopes of the chase, and the 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

fugitive produce of uncultivated wilds. Such 
were the means by which the forests of Para- 
guay were converted into a scene of abundant 
cultivation, and its savage inhabitants intro- 
duced to all the advantages of a civilised life. 

The Canadian missionaries should have 
been contented to improve the morals of their 
own countrymen, so that by meliorating their 
character and conduct, they would have given 
a striking example of the effect of religion in 
promoting the comforts of life to the sur- 
rounding savages ; and might by degrees have 
extended its benign influence to the remotest 
regions of that country, which was the ob- 
ject, and intended to be the scene, of their 
evangelical labours. But by bearing the 
light of the Gospel at once to the distance of 
two thousand five hundred miles from the 
civilised part of the colonies, it was soon ob- 
scured by the cloud of ignorance that dark- 
ened the human mind in those distant regions. 

The whole of their long route I have often 
travelled, and the recollection of such a peo- 
ple as the missionaries having been there, was 
confined to a few superannuated Canadians, 
who had not left that country since the cession 
to the English, in 1763, and who particularly 
mentioned the death of some, and the dis- 
tressing situation of them all. But if these 
religious men did not attain the objects of 
their persevering piety, they were, during 
xxvi 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

their mission, of great service to the com- 
manders who engaged in those distant expedi- 
tions, and spread the fur trade as far West 
as the banks of the Saskatchiwine river, in 
53. North latitude, and longitude 102. West. 

At an early period of their intercourse with 
the savages, a custom was introduced of a 
very excellent tendency, but is now unfortu- 
nately discontinued, of not selling any spiritu- 
ous liquor to the natives. This admirable 
regulation was for some time observed, with 
all the respect due to the religion by which 
it was sanctioned, and whose severest censures 
followed the violation of it. A painful pen- 
ance could alone restore the offender to the 
suspended rites of the sacrament. The casu- 
istry of trade, however, discovered a way to 
gratify the Indians with their favourite cordial 
without incurring the ecclesiastical penalties, 
by giving, instead of selling it to them. 

But notwithstanding all the restrictions 
with which commerce was oppressed under 
the French government, the fur trade was 
extended to the immense distance which has 
been already stated; and surmounted many 
most discouraging difficulties, which will be 
hereafter noticed; while, at the same time, 
no exertions were made from Hudson's Bay 
to obtain even a share of the trade of a coun- 
try, which according to the charter of that 
company, belonged to it, and, from its prox- 
xxvii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

imity, is so much more accessible to the mer- 
cantile adventurer. 

Of these trading commanders, I understood, 
that two attempted to penetrate to the Pacific 
Ocean, but the utmost extent of their journey 
I could never learn ; which may be attributed, 
indeed, to a failure of the undertaking. 

Eor some time after the conquest of Canada, 
this trade was suspended, which must have 
been very advantageous to the Hudson' s-Bay 
Company, as all the inhabitants to the west- 
ward of Lake Superior were obliged to go to 
them for such articles as their habitual use 
had rendered necessary. Some of the Cana- 
dians who had lived long with them, and 
were become attached to a savage life, accom- 
panied them thither annually, till mercantile 
adventurers again appeared from their own 
country, after an interval of several years, 
owing, as I suppose, to an ignorance of the 
country in the conquerors, and their want 
of commercial confidence in the conquered. 
There were, indeed, other discouragements, 
such as the immense length of the journey 
necessary to reach the limits beyond which 
this commerce must begin ; the risk of prop- 
erty; the expenses attending such a long 
transport ; and an ignorance of the language 
of those who, from their experience, must be 
necessarily employed as the intermediate 
agents between them and the natives. But, 
xxviii 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

notwithstanding these difficulties, the trade, 
by degrees, began to spread over the differ- 
ent parts to which it had been carried by tlie 
French, though at a great risk of the lives^ 
as well as the property of their new posses- 
sors, for the natives had been taught by their 
former allies to entertain hostile dispositions 
towards the English, from their having been 
in alliance with their natural enemies the 
Iroquois ; and there were not wanting a suffi- 
cient number of discontented, disappointed 
people, to keep alive such a notion ; so that 
for a long time they were considered and 
treated as objects of hostility. To prove 
this disposition of the Indians, we hare only 
to refer to the conduct of Pontiac, at Detroit, 
and the surprise and taking of Michilimakinac, 
about this period. 

Hence it arose, that it was so late as the 
year 1766, before which, the trade I mean 
to consider, commenced from Michilimakinac. 
The first who attempted it were satisfied to 
go the length of the river Camenistiquia, 
about thirty miles to the Eastward of the 
Grande Portage, where the French had a 
principal establishment, and was the line of 
their communication with the interior coun- 
try. It was once destroyed by fire. Here 
they went and returned successful in the fol- 
lowing spring to Michilimakinac. Their suc- 
cess induced them to renew their journey, 
xxix 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

and incited others to follow their example. 
Some of them remained at Camenistiquia, 
while others proceeded to and beyond the 
Grande Portage, which, since that time has 
become the principal entrepot of that trade, 
and is situated in a bay, in latitude 48. North, 
and longitude 90. West. After passing the 
nsual season there, they went back to Michili- 
makinac as before, and encouraged by the 
trade, returned in increased numbers. One 
of these, Thomas Curry, with a spirit of en- 
terprize superior to that of his contemporaries, 
determined to penetrate to the furthest limits 
of the French discoveries in that country ; or 
at least till the frost should stop him. For 
this purpose he procured guides and inter- 
preters, who were acquainted with the coun- 
try, and with four canoes arrived at Fort 
Bourbon, which was one of their posts, at 
the West end of the Cedar Lake, on the 
waters of the Saskatchiwine. His risk and 
toil were well recompensed, for he came back 
the following spring with his canoes filled 
with fine furs, with which he proceeded to 
Canada, and was satisfied never again to re- 
turn to the Indian country. 

From this period, people began to spread 
over every part of the country, particularly 
where the French had established settlements. 

Mr. James Finlay was the first who fol- 
lowed Mr. Curry's example, and with the 

XXX 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

same number of canoes, arrived, in the course 
of the next season, at Nipawee, the last of 
the French settlements on the bank of the 
Saskatchiwine river, in latitude nearly 43^. 
North, and longitude 103. West: he found 
the good fortune, as he followed, in every 
respect, the example, of his predecessor. 

As may be supposed, there were now peo- 
ple enough ready to replace them, and the 
trade was pursued with such avidity, and 
irregularity, that in a few years it became 
the reverse of what it ought to have been. 
An animated competition prevailed, and the 
contending parties carried the trade beyond 
the French limits, though with no benefit to 
themselves or neighbours, the Hudson*s-Bay 
Company ; who in the year 1774, and not till 
then, thought proper to move from home to 
the East bank of Sturgeon Lake, in latitude 
53. 56. North, and longitude 102. 15. West, 
and became more jealous of their fellow sub- 
jects; and, perhaps, with more cause, than 
they had been of those of France. From this 
period, to the present time, they have been 
following the Canadians to their different 
establishments, while, on the contrary, there 
is not a solitary instance that the Canadians 
have followed them ; and there are many trad- 
ing posts which they have not yet attained. 
This, however, will no longer be a mystery, 
when the nature and policy of the Hudson' s- 
xxxi 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

Bay Company is compared with that which 
has been pursued by their rivals in this trade. 
— But to return to my subject. 

This competition, which has been already 
mentioned, gave a fatal blow to the trade 
from Canada, and, with other incidental 
causes, in my opinion, contributed to its ruin. 
This trade Avas carried on in a very distant 
country", out of the reach of legal restraint, 
and where there was a free scope given to 
any ways or means in attaining advantage. 
The consequence was not only the loss of 
commercial benefit to the persons engaged in 
it, but of the good opinion of the natives, 
and the respect of their men, who were in- 
clined to follow their example ; so that with 
drinking, carousing, and quarrelling with the 
Indians along their route, and among them- 
selves, they seldom reached their winter 
quarters; and if they did, it was generally 
by dragging their property upon sledges, as 
the navigation was closed up by the frost. 
When at length they were arrived, the object 
of each was to injure his rival traders in the 
©pinion of the natives as much as was in their 
power, by misrepresentation and presents, for 
which the agents employed were peculiarly 
calculated. They considered the command 
of their employer as binding on them, and 
however wrong or irregular the transaction, 
the responsibility rested with the principal 
xxxii 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

who directed them. This is Indian law. 
Thus did they waste their credit and their 
property with the natives, till the first was 
past redemption, and the last was nearly ex- 
hausted ; so that towards the spring in each 
year, the rival parties found it absolutely 
necessary to join, and make one common 
stock of what remained, for the purpose of 
trading with the natives, who could enter- 
tain no respect for persons who had conducted 
themselves with so much irregularity and 
deceit. The winter, therefore, was one con- 
tinued scene of disagreements and quarrels. 
If any one had the precaution or good sense 
to keep clear of these proceedings, he derived 
a proportionable advantage from his good 
conduct, and frequently proved a peacemaker 
between the parties. To such an height had 
they carried this licentious •onduct, that they 
were in a continual state of alarm, and were 
even frequently stopped to pay tribute on 
their route into the country; though they 
had adopted the plan of travelling together 
in parties of thirty or forty canoes, and keep- 
ing their men armed; which sometimes, in- 
deed, proved necessary for their defence. 

Thus was the trade carried on for several 
years, and consequently becoming worse and 
worse, so that the partners, who met them at 
the Grande Portage, naturally complained of 
their ill success. But specious reasons were 
3 xxxiii 



y 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

always ready to prove that it arose from cir- 
cumstances which they could not at that time 
control ; and encouragements were held forth 
to hope that a change would soon take place, 
which would make ample amends for past 
disappointments. 

It was about this time, that Mr. Joseph 
Frobisher, one of the gentlemen engaged in 
the" trade, determined to penetrate into the 
country yet unexplored, to the North and 
Westward, and, in the spring of the year 
1775, met the Indians from that quarter -^n 
their way to Fort Churchill, at Portage de 
Traite, so named from that circumstance, on 
the banks of the Missinipi, or Churchill river, 
latitude 55. 25. North, longitude 103i . West. 
It was indeed, with some difficulty that he 
could induce them to trade with him, but he 
at length procured as many furs as his canoes 
could carry. In this perilous expedition he 
sustained every kind of hardship incident to 
a journey through a wild and savage country, 
where his subsistence depended on what the 
woods and the waters produced. These diffi- 
culties, nevertheless, did not discourage him 
from returning in the following year, when 
he was equally successful. He then sent his 
brother to explore the country still further 
West, who penetrated as far as the lake of 
Isle a la Crosse, in latitude 55. 26. North, 
and longitude 108. West. 
xxxiv 



OF THE FUR TRADE. &c. 

He, however, never after wintered among 
the Indians, though he retained a large inter- 
est in the trade, and a principal share in the 
direction of it till the yesiv 1798, when he re- 
tired to enjoy the fruits of his labours; and, 
by his hospitality, became known to every 
respectable stranger who visited Canada. 

The success of this gentleman induced 
others to follow his example, and in the 
spring of the year 1778, some of the traders 
on the Saskatchiwine river, finding they had 
a quantity of goods to spare, agreed to put 
them into a joint stock, and gave the charge 
and management of them to Mr. Peter Pond, 
who, in four canoes, was directed to enter the 
English River, so called by Mr. Frobisher, to 
follow his track, and proceed still further ; if 
possible, to Athabasca, a country hitherto 
unknown but from Indian report. In this 
enterprise he at length succeeded and pitched 
his tent on the banks of the Elk river, by him 
erroneously called the Athabasca river, about 
forty miles from the Lake of the Hills, into 
which it empties itself. 

Here he passed the winter of 1778-9; saw 
a vast concourse of the Knisteneaux and 
Chepewyan tribes, who used to carry their 
furs annually to Churchill ; the latter by the 
barren grounds, where they suffered innu- 
merable hardships, and were sometimes even 
starved to death. The former followed the 

XXXV 



/ 



y 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

course of the lakes and rivers, through a 
country that abounded in animals, and where 
there was plenty of fish : but though they did 
not suffer from want of food, the intolerable 
fatigue of such a journey could not be easily 
repaid to an Indian: they were, therefore, 
highly gratified by seeing people come to their 
country to relieve them from such long, toil- 
some, and dangerous journeys; and were 
immediately reconciled to give an advanced 
price for the articles necessary to their com- 
fort and convenience. Mr. Pond's reception 
and success was accordingly beyond his ex- 
pectation; and he procured twice as many 
furs as his canoes would carry. They also 
supplied him with as much provision as he 
required during his residence among them, 
and sufiicient for his homeward voyage. 
Such of the furs as he could not embark, he 
secured in one of his winter huts, and they 
were found the following season, in the same 
state in which he left them. 

These, however, were but partial advan- 
tages, and could not prevent the people of 
Canada from seeing the improper conduct of 
some of their associates, which rendered it 
dangerous to remain any longer among the 
natives. Most of them who passed the winter 
at the Saskatchiwine, got to the Eagle hills, 
where, in the spring of the year 1780, a few 
days previous to their intended departure, a 
XXX vi 



OF THJE FUR TRADE. &c. 

large band of Indians being engaged in drink- 
ing about their houses, one of the traders, to 
ease himself of the troublesome importunities 
of a native, gave him a dose of laudanum in 
a glass of grog, which effectually prevented 
him from giving further trouble to any one, 
by setting him asleep for ever. This accident 
produced a fray, in which one of the traders, 
and several of the men were killed, while the 
rest had no other means to save themselves 
but by a precipitate flight, abandoning a con- 
siderable quantity of goods, and near half the 
furs which they had collected during the 
winter and the spring. 

About the same time, two of the establish- 
ments on the Assiniboin river, were attacked 
with less justice, when several white men, and 
a great number of Indians were killed. In 
short, it appeared, that the natives had 
formed a resolution to extirpate the traders ; 
and, without entering into any further reason- 
ings on the subject, it appears to be incon- 
trovertible, that the irregularity pursued in 
carrying on the trade has brought it into its 
present forlorn situation; and nothing but 
the greatest calamity that could have befallen 
the natives, saved the traders from destruc- 
tion: this was the small-pox, which spread 
its destructive and desolating power, as the 
fire consumes the dry grass of the field. The 
fatal infection spread around with a baneful 
xxxvii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

rapidity which no flight could escape, and 
with a fatal effect that nothing could resist. 
It destroyed with its pestilential breath whole 
families and tribes; and the horrid scene 
presented to those who had the melancholy 
and afflicting opportunity of beholding it, a 
combination of the dead, the dying, and such 
as to avoid the horrid fate of their friends 
around them, prepared to disappoint the 
plague of its prey, by terminating their own 
existence. 

The habits and lives of these devoted peo- 
ple, which provided not to-day for the wants 
of to-morrow, must have heightened the pains 
of such an affliction, by leaving them not only 
without remedy, but even without alleviation. 
Naught was left them but to submit in agony 
and despair. 

To aggravate the picture, if aggravation 
were possible, may be added, the putrid car- 
cases which the wolves, with a furious vorac- 
ity, dragged forth from the huts, or which 
were mangled within them by the dogs, whose 
hunger was satisfied with the disfigured re- 
mains of their masters. Nor was it uncom- 
mon for the father of a family, whom the 
infection had not reached, to call them around 
him, to represent the cruel sufferings and 
horrid fate of their relations, from the influ- 
ence of some evil spirit who was preparing to 
extirpate their race; and to incite them to 
xxxviii 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

baffle death, with, all its horrors, by their own 
poniards. At the same time, if their hearts 
failed them in this necessary act, he was 
himself ready to perform the deed of mercy 
with his own hand, as the last act of his 
affection, and instantly to follow them to the 
common place of rest and refuge from hnman 
evil. 

It was never satisfactorily ascertained by 
^hat means this malignant disorder was in- 
troduced, but it was generally supposed to be 
from the Missisouri, by a war party. 

The consequence of this melancholy event 
to the traders must be self-evident ; the means 
of disposing of their goods were cut off ; and 
no furs were obtained, but such as had been 
gathered from the habitations of the deceased 
Indians, which could not be very consider- 
able: nor did they look from the losses of 
the present year, with any encouraging ex- 
pectations to those which were to come. The 
only fortunate people consisted of a party 
who had again penetrated to the Northward 
and Westward in 1780, at some distance 
up the Missinipi, or English river, to Lake 
la Rouge. Two unfortunate circumstances, 
however, happened to them; which are as 
follow : 

Mr. Wadin, a Swiss gentleman, of strict 
probity and known sobriety, had gone there 
in the year 1779, and remained during the 
xxxix 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

summer of 1780. His partners and others, 
engaged in an opposite interest, when at the 
Grande Portage, agreed to send a quantity of 
goods on their joint account, which was ac- 
cepted, and Mr. Pond was proposed by them 
to be their representative to act in conjunc- 
tion with Mr. Wadin. Two men, of more 
opposite characters, could not, perhaps, have 
been found. In short, from various causes, 
their situations became very uncomfortable 
to each other, and mutual ill-will was the 
natural consequence : without entering, there- 
fore, into a minute history of these transac- 
tions, it will be sufficient to observe, that, 
about the end of the year 1780, or the begin- 
ning of 1781, Mr. Wadin had received Mr. 
Pond and one of his own clerks to dinner; 
and, in the course of the night, the former 
was shot through the lower part of the thigh, 
when it was said that he expired from the 
loss of blood, and was buried next morning 
at eight o'clock. Mr. Pond, and the clerk, 
were tried for this murder at Montreal, and 
acquitted: nevertheless, their innocence was 
not so apparent as to extinguish the original 
suspicion. 

The other circumstance was this. In the 
spring of the year, Mr. Pond sent the above- 
mentioned clerk to meet the Indians from the 
Northward, who used to go annually to Hud- 
son's Bay; when he easily persuaded them to 
xl 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

trade with him, and return back, that they 
might not take the contagion which had de- 
populated the country to the Eastward of 
them : bat most unfortunately they caught it 
here, and carried it with them, to the destruc- 
tion of themselves and the neighbouring tribes. 
The country being thus depopulated, the 
traders and their friends from Canada, who, 
from various causes already mentioned, were 
very much reduced in number, became confined 
to two parties, who began seriously to think 
of making permanent establishments on the 
Missinipi river, and at Athabasca; for which 
purpose, in 1781-2, they selected their best 
canoe-men, being ignorant that the small-pox 
penetrated that way. The most expeditious 
party got only in time to the Portage la Loche, 
«r Mithy-Ouinigam, which divides the waters 
of the Missinipi from those that fall into the 
Elk river, to despatch one canoe strong- 
handed, and light-loaded, to that country; 
but, on their arrival there, they found, in 
every direction, the ravages of the small-pox ; 
so that, from the great diminution of the 
natives, they returned in the spring with no 
more than seven packages of beaver. The 
.strong woods and mountainous countries 
afforded a refuge to those who fled from the 
contagion of the plains; but they were so 
alarmed at the surrounding destruction, that 
they avoided the traders, and were dispirited 
xli 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

from hunting, except for their subsistence. 
The traders, however, who returned into the 
country in the year 1782-3, found the in- 
habitants in some cort of tranquillity, and 
more numerous than they had reason to ex- 
pect, so that their success was proportion- 
ably better. 

During the winter of 1783-4, the mer- 
chants of Canada, engaged in this trade, 
7 formed a junction of interests, under the 
name of the North- West Company, and di- 
vided it into sixteen shares, without deposit- 
ing any capital ; each party furnishing a pro- 
portion or quota of such articles as were 
necessary to carry on the trade : the respec- 
tive parties agreeing to satisfy the friends 
they had in the country, who were not ppo- 
vided for, according to this agreement, out 
of the proportions which they held. The 
management of the whole was accordingly 
entrusted to Messrs. Benjamin and Joseph 
Frobisher, and Mr. Simon M'Tavish, two 
distinct houses, who had the greatest interest 
and influence in the country, and for which 
they were to receive a stipulated commission 
in all transactions. 

In the spring, two of those gentlemen went 
to the Grande Portage with their credentials, 
which were confirmed and ratified by all the 
parties having an option, except Mr. Peter 
Pond, who was not satisfied with the share 
xlii 



OF THE FLR TRADE, &c. 

allotted him. Accordingly he, and another 
gentleman, Mr. Peter Pangman, who had a 
right to be a partner, but for whom no pro- 
Yision ha,d been made, came to Canada, with 
a determination to return to the country, if 
they could find any persons to join them, and 
give their scheme a proper support. 

The traders in the country, and merchants 
at Montreal, thus entered into a co-partner- 
ship, which, by these means, was consolidated 
and directed by able men, who, from the 
powers with which they were entrusted, 
would carry on the trade to the utmost ex- 
tent it would bear. The traders in the coun- 
try, therefore, having every reason to expect 
that their past and future labours would be 
recompensed, forgot all their former animosi- 
ties, and engaged with the utmost spirit and 
activity, to forward the general interest ; so 
that, in the following year, they met their 
agents at the Grande Portage, with their 
canoes laden with rich furs from the different 
parts of that immense tract of country. But 
this satisfaction was not to be enjoyed with- 
out some interruption; and they were mor- 
tified to find that Mr. Pangman had prevailed 
on Messrs. Gregory and Macleod to join him, 
and give him their support in the business, 
though deserted by Mr. Pond, who accepted 
the terms offered by his former associates. 

In the counting-house of Mr. Gregory I 
xliii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

had been five years ; and at this period had 
left him, with a small adventure of goods, 
with which he had entrusted me, to seek my 
fortune at Detroit. He, without any solici- 
tation on my part, had procured an insertion 
in the agreement, that I should be admitted 
a partner in this business, on condition that 
I would proceed to the Indian country in the 
following spring, 1785. His partner came to 
Detroit to make me such a proposition. I 
readily assented to it, and immediately pro- 
ceeded to the Grande Portage, where I joined 
my associates. 

We now found that independent of the 
natural difficulties of the undertaking, we 
should have to encounter every other which 
they, who were already in possession of the 
trade of the country, could throw in our way, 
and which their circumstances enabled them 
to do. Nor did they doubt, from their own 
superior experience, as well as that of their 
clerks and men, with their local knowledge 
of the country and its inhabitants, that they 
should soon compel us to leave the country 
to them. The event, however, did not justify 
their expectations; for, after the severest 
struggle ever known in that part of the world, 
and suffering every oppression which a jeal- 
ous and rival spirit could instigate ; after the 
murder of one of our partners, the laming of 
another, and the narrow escape of one of our 
xliv 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c, 

clerks, who received a bullet through his 
powder horn, in the execution of his duty, 
they were compelled to allow us a share of 
the trade. As we had already incurred a 
loss, this union was, in every respect, a de- 
sirable event to us, and was concluded in the 
month of July, 1787. 

This commercial establishment was now 
founded on a more solid basis than any hither- 
to known in the country; and it not only 
continued in full force, vigour, and prosper- 
ity, in spite of all interference from Canada, 
but maintained at least an equal share of 
advantage with the Hudson^ s-Bay Company, 
notwithstanding the superiority of their local 
situation. The following account of this self- 
crected concern will manifest the cause of its 
success. 

It assumed the title of the North-West 
Company, and was no more than an associa- 
tion of commercial men, agreeing among 
themselves to carry on the fur trade, uncon- 
nected with any other business, though many 
of the parties engaged had extensive concerns 
altogether foreign to it. It may be said to 
have been supported entirely upon credit; 
for, whether the capital belonged to the pro- 
prietor, or was borrowed, it equally bore in- 
terest, for which the association was annually 
accountable. It consisted of twenty shares, 
unequally divided among the persons con- 
xlv 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

cerned. Of these, a certain proportion was 
held by the people who managed the busi- 
ness in Canada, and were styled agents for 
the Company. Their duty was to import the 
necessary goods from England, store them 
at their own expense at Montreal, get them 
made up into articles suited to the trade, 
pack and forward them, and supply the cash 
that might be wanting for the outfits, for 
which they received, independent of the 
profit on their shares, a commission on the 
amount of the accounts, which they were 
obliged to make out annually, and keep the 
adventure of each year distinct. Two of 
them went annually to the Grande Portage, 
to manage and transact the business there, 
and on the communication at Detroit, Michili- 
makinac, St. Mary's, and at Montreal, where 
they received, stored, packed up, and shipped 
the company's furs for England, on which 
they had also a small commission. The re- 
maining shares were held by the proprietors, 
who were obliged to winter and manage the 
business of the concern with the Indians, and 
their respective clerks, etc. They were not 
supposed to be under any obligation to furnish 
capital, or even credit. If they obtained any 
capital by the trade, it was to remain in the 
hands of the agents; for Avhich they were 
allowed interest. Some of them, from their 
long services and influence, held double 
xlvi 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

shares, and were allowed to retire from the 
business at any period of the existing concern, 
with one of those shares, naming any young 
man in the company's service to succeed him 
in the other. Seniority and merit were, 
however, considered as affording a claim to 
the succession, which, nevertheless, could not 
be disposed of without the concurrence of the 
majority of the concern; who, at the same 
time, relieved the seceding person from any 
responsibility respecting the share that he 
transferred, and accounted for it according to 
the annual value or rate of the property ; so 
that the seller could have no advantage, but 
that of getting the share of stock which he 
retained realised, and receiving for the trans- 
ferred share what was fairly determined to 
be the worth of it. The former was also 
discharged from all duty, and became a dor- 
mant partner. Thus, all the young men who 
were not provided for at the beginning of the 
contract, succeeded in succession to the char- 
acter and advantages of partners. They en- 
tered into the Company's service for iive or 
seven years, under such expectations, and 
their reasonable prospects were seldom disap- 
pointed: there were, indeed, instances when 
they succeeded to shares, before their appren- 
ticeship was expired, and it frequently hap- 
pened, that they were provided for while they 
were in a state of articled clerkship. Shares 
xlvii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

were transferable only to the concern at large, 
as no person could be admitted as a partner 
who had not served his time to the trade. 
The dormant partner indeed might dispose 
of his interest to any one he chose, but if the 
transaction was not acknowledged by his 
associates, the purchaser could only be con- 
sidered as his agent or attorney. Every 
share had a vote, and two-thirds formed a 
majority. This regular and equitable mode 
of providing for the clerks of the company, 
excited a spirit of emulation in the discharge 
of their various duties, and in fact, made 
every agent a principal, who perceived his 
own prosperity to be immediately connected 
with that of his employers. Indeed, without 
such a spirit, such a trade could not have be- 
come so extended and advantageous, as it 
has been and now is. 

In 1788, the gross amount of the adventure 
for the year did not exceed forty thousand 
pounds, * but by the exertion, enterprise, and 
industry of the proprietors, it was brought, 
4n eleven years, to triple that amount and 
/^upwards; yielding proportionate profits, and 

* This might be properly called the stock of the 
company, as it Included, with the expenditure of 
the year, the amount of the property unexpended, 
which had been appropriated for the adventure of 
that year, and was carried on to the account of the 
following adventure. 

xlviii 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

surpassing, in short, any thing known in 
America. 

Such, therefore, being the prosperous state 
of the company, it, very naturally, tempted 
others to interfere with the concern in a 
manner by no means beneficial to the com- 
pany, and commonly ruinous to the under- 
takers. 

In 1798 the concern underwent a new form, 
the shares were increased to forty-six, new 
partners being admitted, and others retiring. 
This period was the termination of the com- 
pany, which was not renewed by all the 
parties concerned in it, the majority continu- 
ing to act upon the old stock, and under the 
old firm; the others beginning a new one; 
and it now remains to be decided, whether 
two parties, under the same regulations and 
by the same exertions, though unequal in 
number, can continue to carry on the business 
to a successful issue. The contrary opinion 
has been held, which if verified, will make 
it the interest of the parties again to coalesce j 
for neither is deficient in capital to support 
their obstinacy in a losing trade, as it is not 
to be supposed that either will yield on any 
other terms than perpetual participation. 

It will not be superfluous in this place, to 
explain the general mode of carrying on the 
fur trade. 

The agents are obliged to order the neces- 
4 xlix 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

sary goods from England in the month of 
October, eighteen months before they can 
leave Montreal ; that is, they are not shipped 
from London until the spring following, when 
they arrive in Canada in the summer. In 
the course of the following winter they are 
made up into such articles as are required for 
the savages ; they are then packed into parcels 
of ninety pounds weight each, but cannot be 
sent from Montreal until the May following ; 
so that they do not get to market until the 
ensuing winter, when they are exchanged for 
furs, which come to Montreal the next fall, 
and from thence are shij^ped, chiefly to Lon- 
don, where they are not sold or paid for be- 
fore the succeeding spring, or even as late as 
June; which is forty-two months after the 
goods were ordered in Canada; thirty-six 
after they had been shipped from England, 
and twenty-four after they had been for- 
warded from IMontreal ; so that the merchant, 
allowing that he has twelve months' credit, 
does not receive a return to pay for those 
goods, and the necessary expenses attending 
them, which is about equal to the value of 
the goods themselves^ till two years after 
they are considered as cash, which makes this 
a very heavy business. There is even a small 
proportion of it that requires twelve months 
longer to bring round the payment, going to 
the immense distance it is carried, and from 
1 



OF THE FUK TRADE. &c. 

the shortness of the seasons, which pre- 
vents the furs, even after they are collected, 
from coming out of the country for that 
period.* 

The articles necessary for this trade, are 
coarse woollen cloths of different kinds; 
milled blankets of different sizes ; arms and 
ammunition ; twist and carrot tobacco ; Man- 
chester goods; linens, and coarse sheetings; 
thread, lines, and twine ; common hardware ; 
cutlery and ironmongery of several descrip- 
tions ; kettles of brass and copper, and sheet- 
iron; silk and cotton handkerchiefs, hats, 
shoes, and hose ; calicoes and printed cottons, 
etc., etc., etc. Spirituous liquors and provi- 
sions are purchased in Canada. These, and 
the expense of transport to and from the In- 
dian country, including wages to clerks, in- 
terpreters, guides, and canoe-men, with the 
expense of making up the goods for the 

* This will be better illustrated by the following 
statement: — We will suppose the goods for 1798: 
The orders for the goods are sent to this country 
25th October, 1796 ; they are shipped from London 
March, 1797; they arrive in Montreal June, 1797; 
they are made up in the course of that summer and 
winter; they are sent from Montreal May, 1798; 
they arrive in the Indian country, and are exchanged 
for furs the following winter, 1798-99; which furs 
come to Montreal September, 1799; and are shipped 
for London, where they are sold in March and April, 
and paid for in May or June, 1800. 
li 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

market, form about half the annual amount 
against the adventure. 

This expenditure in Canada ultimately 
tends to the encouragement of British manu- 
factory, for those who are employed in the 
different branches of this business, are en- 
abled by their gains to purchase such British 
articles as they must otherwise forego. 

The produce of the year of which I am 
now speaking, consisted of the following furs 
and peltries : 

106,000 Beaver skins. 6,000 Lynx skins, 

2,100 Bear skins, 600 Wolverine skins, 

1,500 Fox skins, 1.650 Fisher skins, 

4,000 Kitt Fox skins 100 Rackoon skins, 

4,600 Otter skins, 3,800 Wolf skins, 

17,000 Musquash skins, 700 Elk skins, 

32,000 Marten skins, 750 Deer skins, 

1,800 ]Mink skins, 1.200 Deer skins dressed, 

500 Buffalo robes, and a quantity of cas* 
torum. 

Of these were diverted from the British 
market, being sent through the United States 
to China, 13,364 skins, fine beaver, weighing 
19,283 pounds; 1,250 fine otters, and 1,724 
kitt foxes. They would have found their 
way to the China market at any rate, but 
this deviation from the British channel arose 
from the following circumstance : 

An adventure of this kind was undertaken 
by a respectable house in London, half con* 
lit 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

cerned with the North -West Company, in the 
year 1792. The furs were of the best kind, 
and suitable to the market ; and the adven- 
turers continued this connexion for five suc- 
cessive years, to the annual amount of forty 
thousand pounds. At the winding up of the 
concern of 1792, 1793, 1794, 1795, in the 
year 1797 (the adventure of 1796 not being 
included, as the furs were not sent to China, 
but disposed of in London), the North- West 
Company experienced a loss of upwards of 
£40,000 (their half), which was principally 
owing to the difficulty of getting home the 
produce procured in return for the furs from 
China, in the East India Company's ships, 
together with the duty payable, and the vari- 
ous restrictions of that company. Whereas, 
from America there are no impediments ; they 
get immediately to market, and the produce 
of them is brought back, and perhaps sold in 
the course of twelve months. From such 
advantages, the furs of Canada will no doubt 
find their way to China by America, which 
would not be the case if British subjects had 
the same privileges that are allowed to for- 
eigners, as London would then be found the 
best and safest market. 

But to return to our prmcipal subject. We 

shall now proced to consider the number of 

men employed in the concern: viz., fifty 

clerks, seventy-one interpreters and clerks, 

liii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

one thousand one hundred and twenty canoe- 
men, and thirty-five guides. Of these, five 
clerks, eighteen guides, and three hundred 
and fifty canoe-men, were employed for the 
summer season in going from Montreal to the 
Grande Portage, in canoes, part of whom 
proceeded from thence to Rainy Lake, as will 
be hereafter explained, and are called Pork- 
eaters, or Goers and Comers. These were 
hired in Canada or Montreal, and were absent 
from the 1st of May till the latter end of 
September. For this trip the guides had 
from eight hundred to a thousand livres, and 
a suitable equipment ; the foreman and steers- 
man from four to six hundred livres; the 
middle-men from two hundred and fifty to 
three hundred and fifty livres, with an equip- 
ment of one blanket, one shirt, and one pair 
of trowsers ; and were maintained during that 
period at the expense of their employers. 
Independent of their wages, they were allowed 
to traffic, and many of them earned to the 
amount of their wages. About one-third of 
these went to winter, and had more than 
double the above wages and equipment. All 
the winterers were hired by the year, and 
sometimes for three years ; and of the clerks 
many w^ere api^rentices, who were generally 
engaged for five or seven years, for which 
they had only one hundred pounds, provision 
and clothing. Such of them who could not 
liv 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

be provided for as partners, at the expiration 
of this time, were allowed from one hundred 
pounds to three hundred pounds per annum, 
with all necessaries, till provision was made 
for them. Those who acted in the two-fold 
capacity of clerk and interpreter, or were so 
denominated, had no other expectation than 
the payment of wages to the amount of from 
one thousand to four thousand livres per an- 
num, with clothing and provisions. The 
guides, who are a very useful set of men, 
acted also in the additional capacity of in- 
terpreters, and had a stated quantity of goods, 
considered as sufficient for their wants, their 
wages being from one to three thousand livres. 
The canoe-men are of two descriptions, fore- 
men and steersmen, and middlemen. The 
two first were allowed annually one thousand 
two hundred, and the latter eight hundred, 
livres each. The first class had what is 
called an equipment, consisting of two 
blankets, two shirts, two pair of trowsers, 
two handkerchiefs, fourteen pounds of carrot 
tobacco, and some trifling articles. The 
latter had ten pounds of tobacco, and all the 
other articles: those are called North Men, 
or Winterers ; and to the last class of people 
were attached upwards of seven hundred In- 
dian women and children, victualled at the 
expence of the company. 

The first class of people are hired in Mon-' 
Iv 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

treal five months before they set out, and re- 
ceive their equipments, and one-third of theii 
wages in advance ; and an adequate idea of 
the labour they undergo, may be formed from 
the following account of the country through 
which they pass, and their manner of pro- 
ceeding. 

The necessary number of canoes being pur- 
chased, at about three hundred livres each, 
the goods formed into packages, and the 
lakes and rivers free of ice, which they usu- 
ally are in the beginning of May, they are 
then despatched from La Chine, eight miles 
above Montreal, with eight or ten men in each 
canoe, and their baggage; and sixty-five 
packages of goods, six hundred weight of 
biscuit, two hundred weight of pork, three 
bushels of pease, for the men's provision; 
two oil-cloths to cover the goods, a sail, etc., 
an axe, a towing-line, a kettle, and a sponge 
to bail out the water, with a quantity of gum, 
bark, and watape, to repair the vessel. An 
European on seeing one of these slender ves- 
sels thus laden, heaped up, and sunk with 
her gunwale within six inches of the water, 
would think his fate inevitable in such a boat, 
when he reflected on the nature of her voyage ; 
but the Canadians are so expert that few ac- 
cidents happen. 

Leaving La Chine, they proceed to St. 
Ann's, within two miles of the Western ex- 
Ivi 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

tremity of the island of Montreal, the lake of 
the two mountains being in sight, which may 
be termed the commencement of the Utawas 
river. At the rapid of St. Ann they are 
obliged to take out part, if not the whole of 
their lading. It is from this spot that the 
Canadians consider they take their departure, 
as it possesses the last church on the island, 
which is dedicated to the tutelar saint of 
voyages. 

The lake of the two mountains is about 
twenty miles long, but not more than three 
wide, and surrounded by cultivated fields, 
except the Seignory belonging to the clergy, 
though nominally in possession of the two 
tribes of Iroquois and Algonquins, whose 
village is situated on a delightful point of 
land under the hills, which, by tho title of 
mountains, give a name to the lake. Near 
the extremity of the point their church is 
built, which divides the village in two parts, 
forming a regular angle along the water side. 
On the East is the station of the Algonquins, 
and on the West, one of the Iroquois, consist- 
ing in all of about five hundred warriors. 
Each party has its missionary, and divine 
worship is performed according to the rites 
of the Roman Catholic religion, in their re- 
spective languages in the same church : and 
so assiduous have their pastors been, that 
these people have been instructed in reading 
Ivii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

and writing in their own language, and are 
better instructed than the Canadian inhabi- 
tants of the country of the lower ranks : 
but notwithstanding these advantages, and 
though the establishment is nearly coeval 
with the colonisation of the country, they do 
not advance towards a state of civilisation, 
but retain their ancient habits, language, and 
customs, and are becoming every day more 
depraved, indigent, and insignificant. The 
country around them, though very capable of 
cultivation, presents only a few miserable 
patches of ground, sown by the women with 
maize and vegetables. During the winter 
season, they leave their habitations, and 
pious pastors, to follow the chase, according 
to the custom of their forefathers. Such is, 
indeed, the state of all the villages near the 
cultivated parts of Canada. But we shall 
now leave them to proceed on our voyage. 

At the end of the lake the water contracts 
into the Utawas river, which, after a course 
of fifteen miles, is interrupted by a succes- 
sion of rapids and cascades for upwards of 
ten miles, at the foot of which the Canadian 
Seignories terminate; and all above them 
were waste land, till the conclusion of the 
American war, when they were surveyed by 
order of government, and granted to the offi- 
cers and men of the eighty-fourth regiment, 
when reduced ; but principally to the former, 
Iviii 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

and consequently little inhabited, though very 
capable of cultivation. 

The voyagers are frequently obliged to un- 
load their canoes, and carry the goods upon 
their backs, or rather suspended in slings 
from their heads. Each man's ordinary load 
is two packages, though some carry three. 
Here the canoe is towed by a strong line. 
There are some places where the ground will 
not admit of their carrying the whole ; they 
then make two trips, that is, leave half their 
lading, and go and land it at the distance re- 
quired ; and then return for that which was 
left. In this distance are three carrying- 
places, the length of which depends in a 
great measure upon the state of the water, 
whether higher or lower; from the last of 
these the river is about a mile and a half 
wide, and has a regular current for about 
sixt}' miles, when it ends at the first Portage 
de Chaudiere, where the body of water falls 
twenty-five feet, over cragged, excavated 
rocks, in a most wild, romantic manner. At 
a small distance below, is the river Rideau 
on the left, falling over a perpendicular rock, 
near forty feet high, in one sheet, assuming 
the appearance of a curtain ; and from which 
circumstance it derives its name. To this 
extent the lands have been surveyed, as be- 
fore observed, and are very fit for culture. 
Many loyalists are settled upon the river 
lix 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

Rideau, and have, I am told, thriving plan- 
tations. Some American families preferring 
the British territory, have also established 
themselves along a river on the opposite 
side, where the soil is excellent. Nor do I 
think the period is far distant, when the 
lands will become settled from this vicinity 
to Montreal. 

Over this portage, which is six hundred 
and forty-three paces long, the canoe and all 
the lading is carried. The rock is so steep 
and difficult of access, that it requires twelve 
men to take the canoe out of the water : it is 
then carried by six men, two at each end on 
the same side, and two under the opposite 
gunwale in the middle. From hence to the 
next is but a short distance, in which they 
make two trips to the second Portage de 
Chaudiere, which is seven hundred paces, to 
carry the loading alone. From hence to the 
next and last Chaudiere, or Portage des 
Chenes, is about six miles, with a very strong 
current, where the goods are carried seven 
hundred and forty paces; the canoe being 
towed up by the line, when the water is not 
very high. We now enter Lac des Chau- 
dieres, which is computed to be thirty miles 
in length. Though it is called a lake, there 
is a strong draught downwards, and its 
breadth is from two to four miles. At the 
end of this is the Portage des Chats, ovei 
Ix 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

which the canoe and lading are carried two 
hundred and seventy-four paces; and very 
difficult it is for the former. The river is 
here barred by a ridge of black rock, rising 
in pinnacles and covered with wood, which, 
from the small quantity of soil that nourishes 
it, is low and stinted. The river finds its 
way over and through these rocks, in numer- 
ous channels, falling fifteen feet and up- 
wards. From hence two trips are made 
through a serpentine channel, formed by the 
rocks, for several miles, when the current 
slackens, and is accordingly called the Lac 
des Chats. To the channels of the grand 
Calumet, which are computed to be at the 
distance of eighteen miles, the current re- 
covers its strength, and proceeds to the Port- 
age Dufort, which is two hundred and forty- 
five paces long; over which the canoe and 
baggage are transported. From hence the 
current becomes more rapid, and requires two 
trips to the Decharge des Sables, * where the 
goods are carried one hundred and thirty-five 
paces, and the canoe towed. Then follows 
the Mountain Portage, where the canoe and 
lading are also carried three hundred and 
eighty-five paces; then to the Decharge of 

* The place where the goods alone are carried, is 
called a Decharge, and that where goods and canoes 
are both transported overland, is denominated a 
Portage. 

Ixi 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

the Derige, where the goods are carried two 
hundred and fifty paces; and thence to the 
grand Calumet. This is the longest carry- 
ing-place in this river, and is about two thou- 
sand and thirty-five paces. It is a high hill 
or mountain. From the upper part of this 
Portage the current is steady, and is only a 
branch of the Utawas river, which joins the 
main channel, that keeps a more Southern 
course, at the distance of twelve computed 
leagues. Six leagues further it forms Lake 
Coulonge, which is about four leagues in 
length ; from thence it proceeds through the 
channels of the Allumettes to the decharge, 
where part of the lading is taken out, and 
carried three hundred and forty-two paces. 
Then succeeds the Portage des Allumettes, 
which is but twenty-five paces, over a rock 
difficult of access, and at a very short dis- 
tance from Decharge. Prom Portage de 
Chenes to this spot, is a fine deer-hunting 
country, and the land in many places very fit 
for cultivation. From hence the river spreads 
wide, and is full of islands, with some cur- 
rent for seven leagues, to the beginning of 
R'uriere CrPAise, or Deep Hiver, which runs in 
the form of a canal, about a mile and a half 
wide, for about thirty-six miles; bounded 
upon the North by very high rocks, with low 
land on the South, and sandy; it is inter- 
cepted again by falls and cataracts, so that 
Ixii 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

the Portages of the two Joachins almOvSt join. 
The first is nine hundred and twenty-six 
paces, the next seven hundred and twenty, 
and both very bad roads. From hence is a 
steady current of nine miles to the river du 
Moine, where there has generally been a trad- 
ing house; the stream then becomes strong 
for four leagues, when a rapid succeeds, 
which requires two trips. A little way on- 
ward is the Decharge, and close to it, the 
Portage of the Roche Capitaine, seven hun- 
dred and ninety-seven paces in length. From 
hence two trips are made through a narrow 
channel of the Poche Capitaine, made by an 
island four miles in length. A strong cur- 
rent now succeeds, for about six leagues to 
the Portage of the two rivers, which is about 
eight hundred and twenty paces ; from thence 
it is three leagues to the Decharge of the 
Trou, which is three hundred paces. Near 
adjoining is the rapid of Levellier; from 
whence, including the rapids of Matawoen, 
where there is no carrying-place, it is about 
thirty-six miles to the forks of the same 
name; in latitude 46. 45. North, and longi- 
tude 78. 45. West, and is at the computed 
distance of four hundred miles from Mont- 
real. At this place the Petite Riviere falls 
into the Utawas. The latter river comes from 
a North-Westerly direction, forming several 
lakes in its course. The principal of them 
Ixiii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

is; Lake Teinescamang, where there has al- 
ways been a trading post, which may be said 
to continue, by a succession of rivers and lakes, 
upwards of fifty leagues from the Forks, pass- 
ing near the waters of the Lake Abbitiby, in 
latitude 48]-, which is received by the Moose 
Eiver, that empties itself into James's Bay. 

The Petite Riviere takes a South- West di- 
rection, Is full of rapids and cataracts to its 
source, and is not more than fifteen leagues 
in length, in the course of which are the fol- 
lowing interruptions — The Portage of Plein 
Champ, three hundred and nineteen paces; 
the Decharge of the Rose, one hundred and 
forty-five paces; the Decharge of Campion, 
one hundred and eighty-four paces ; the Port- 
age of the Grosse Roche, one hundred and 
fifty paces ; the Portage of Paresseux, four 
hundred and two paces; the Portage of 
Prairie, two hundred and eighty-seven paces ; 
the Portage of La Cave, one hundred paces ; 
Portage of Talon, two hundred and seventy- 
five paces ; which, for its length, is the worst 
on the communication ; Portage Pin de Mu- 
siqje, four hundred and fifty-six paces; next 
to this, is mauvais de Musique, where many 
men have been crushed to death by the ca- 
noes, and others have received irrecoverable 
injuries. The last in this river is the Turtle 
Portage, eighty-three paces, on entering the 
lake of that name, where, indeed, the river 
Ixiv 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

m^j be said to take its source. At tlie first 
vase from whence to the great river, the 
country has the appearance of having been 
over-run by fire, and consists, in general, of 
huge rocky hills. The distance of this port- 
age which is the height of land, between the 
waters of the St. Laurance and the Utawas, 
is one thousand five hundred and thirteen 
paces to a small canal in a plain, that is just 
sufficient to carry the loaded canoe about one 
mile to the next vase, which is seven hun- 
dred and twenty-five paces. It would be 
twice this distance, but the narrow creek 's 
dammed in the beaver fashion, to float the 
canoes to this barrier, through which they 
pass, when the river is just sufficient to bear 
them through a swamp of two miles to the 
last vase, of one thousand and twenty-four 
paces in length. Though the river is in- 
creased in this part, some care is necessary 
to avoid rocks and stumps of trees. In about 
six miles is the lake Nepisingui, which is 
computed to be twelve leagues long, though 
the route of the canoes is something more : it 
is about fifteen miles wide in the widest part, 
and bound with rocks. Its inhabitants con- 
sist of the remainder of a numerous converted 
tribe, called iSTepisinguis of the Algonquin 
nation. Out of it flows the Kiviere des Fran- 
Qois, over rocks of a considerable height. In 
a bay to the East of this, the road leads over 
5 Ixv 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

the Portage of the Chaudiere des Francois, 
five hundred and forty-four paces, to still 
water. It must have acquired the name of 
Kettle, from a great number of holes in the 
solid rock of a cylindrical form, and not un- 
like that culinary utensil. They are observ- 
able in many parts along strong bodies of 
water, and where, at certain seasons, and 
distinct periods, it is well known the water 
inundates ; at the bottom of them are gener- 
ally found a number of small stones and peb- 
bles. This circumstance justifies the conclu- 
sion, that at some former period these rocks 
formed the bed of a branch of the discharge 
of this lake, although some of them are up- 
wards of ten feet above the present level of 
the water at its greatest height. They are, 
indeed, to be seen along every great river 
throughout this wide extended country. The 
French river is very irregular, both as to its 
breadth and form, and is so interspersed with 
islands, that in the whole course of it the 
banks are seldom visible. Of its various 
channels, that which is generally followed 
by the canoes is obstructed by the following 
Portages, viz., des Pins, fifty-two paces; 
Feausille, thirty-six paces; Parisienne, one 
hundred paces ; Recolet, forty-five paces ; and 
the Petite Feusille, twenty-five paces. In 
several parts there are guts or channels, 
where the water flows with great velocity, 
Ixvi 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

which are not more than twice the breadth 
of a canoe. The distance to Lake Huron is 
estimated at twenty-five leagues, which this 
river enters in the latitude 45. 53. North, 
that is, at the point of land three or four 
miles within the lake. There is hardly a 
foot of soil to be seen from one end of the 
Fench river to the other, its banks consisting 
of hills of entire rock. The coast of the lake 
is the same, but lower, backed at some dis- 
tance by high lands. The course runs through 
numerous islands to the North of West to the 
river Tessalon, computed to be about fifty 
leagues from the French river, and which I 
found to be in latitude 46. 12. 21. North; 
and from thence crossing, from island to isl- 
and, the arm of the lake that receives the 
water of Lake Superior (which continues the 
same course), the route changes to the South 
of West ten leagues to the Detour, passing 
the end of the island of St. Joseph, within 
six miles of the former place. On that isl- 
and there has been a military establishment 
since the upper posts were given up to the 
Americans in tlie year 1794; and is the 
Westernmost military position which we have 
in this country. It is a place of no trade, 
and the greater part, if not the whole of the 
Lidians come here for no other purpose but 
to receive the presents w^hich our government 
annually allows them. They are from the 
Ixvii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

American territory (except about thirty fam- 
ilies, who are the inhabitants of the lake 
from the French river, and of the Algonquin 
nation) and trade in their peltries, as they 
used formerly to do at Michilimakinac, but 
principally with British subjects. The Amer- 
icans pay them very little attention, and tell 
them that they keep possession of their coun- 
try by right of conquest : that, as their broth- 
ers, they will be friends with them while they 
deserve it ; and that their traders will bring 
them every kind of goods they require, which 
they may procure by their industry. 

Our commanders treat them in a very dif- 
ferent manner, and, under the character of 
the representative of their father (which pa- 
rental title the natives give to his present 
Majesty, the common father of all his peo- 
ple) present them with such things as the 
actual state of their stores will allow. 

How far this conduct, if continued, may, 
at a future exigency, keep these people in 
our interest, if they are even worthy of it, 
is not an object of my present consideration : 
at the same time, I cannot avoid expressing 
my perfect conviction, that it would not be 
of the least advantage to our present or fu- 
ture commerce in that country, or to the peo- 
ple themselves ; as it only tends to keep many 
of them in a state of idleness about our mili- 
tary establishments. The ammunition which 
Ixviii 



OF TTIi: FUR TRADE, &c 

they receive is employed to kill game, in 
order to procure rum in return, though their 
families may be in a starving condition : 
hence it is, that, in consequence of slothful 
and dissolute lives, their numbers are in a 
very perceptible state of diminution. 

From the Detour to the island of Michili- 
makinac, at the conference of the Lakes 
Huron and Michigan, in latitude 45. 54. 
North is about forty miles. To keep the 
direct course to Lake Superior, the North 
shore from the river Tessalon should be fol- 
lowed ; cro.^^eing to the North-West end of 
St. Joseph, and passing between it and the 
adjacent islands, which makes a distance of 
fifty miles to the fall of St. Mary, at the foot 
of which, upon the South shore, there is a 
village, formerly a place of great resort for 
the inhabitants of Lake Superior, and conse- 
quently of considerable trade : it is now, 
however, dwindled to nothing, and reduced 
to about thirty families, of the Algonquin 
nation, who are one half of the year starving, 
and the other half intoxicated, and ten or 
twelve Canadians, who have been in the In- 
dian country from an early period of life, 
and intermarried with the natives, who have 
brought them families. Their inducements 
to settle there, was the great quantity of 
white fish that are to be taken in and about 
the falls, with very little trouble, particu- 
Ixix 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

larly in the autumn, when that fish leave the 
lakes, and comes to the running and shallow- 
waters to spawn. These, when salt can be 
procured, are pickled just as the frost sets 
in, and prove very good food with potatoes, 
which they have of late cultivated with suc- 
cess. The natives live chiefly on this fish, 
which they hang up by the tails, and pre- 
serve throughout the winter, or at least as 
long as they last ; for whatever quantity they 
may have taken, it is never known that their 
economy is such as to make them last through 
the winter, which renders their situation very 
distressing ; for if they had activity sufficient 
to pursue the labours of the chase, the woods 
are become so barren of game as to afford 
them no great prospect of relief. In the 
spring of the year, they and the other mhab- 
itants make a quantity of sugar from the 
majjle tree, which they exchange with the 
traders for necessary articles, or carry it to 
Michilimakinac, where they expect a better 
price. One of these traders was agent for 
the North- West Company, receiving, storing, 
and forwarding such articles as come by the 
way of the lakes upon their vessels : for it is 
to be observed, that a quantity of their goods 
are sent by that route from Montreal in boats 
to Kingston, at the entrance of Lake Ontario, 
and from thence in vessels to Niagara, then 
over land ten miles to a water communica- 
Ixx 



OF THE FUR TRADE &c. 

tion, by boats, to Lake Erie, where tliey ai-e 
again received into vessels, and carried over 
that lake up the river Detroit, through the 
lake and river Sinclair to Lake Huron, and 
from thence to the Falls of St. Mary's, when 
they are again landed and carried for a mile 
above the falls, and shipped over Lake Supe- 
rior to the Grande Portage. This is found 
to be a less expensive method than by ca- 
noes, but attended with more risk, and re- 
quiring more time, than one short season of 
this country will admit; for the goods are 
always sent from Montreal the preceding 
fall ; and besides, the company get their pro- 
visions from Detroit, as flour and Indian 
<}orn; as also considerable supplies from 
Michilimakinac of maple sugar, tallow, gum, 
'etc., etc. 

For the purpose of conveying all these 
things, they have two vessels upon the Lakes 
Erie and Huron, and one on Lake Superior, 
of from fifty to seventy tons burden. This 
T3eing, therefore, the depot for transports, the 
Montreal canoes, on their arrival, were for- 
warded over Lake Superior, with only five 
men in each ; the others were sent to Michil- 
imakinac for additional canoes, which were 
required to prosecute the trade, and then tak- 
ing a lading there, or at St. Mary's, and fol- 
low the others. At length they all arrive at 
the Grande Portage, which is one hundred 
Ixxi 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

and sixty leagues from St. Mary's, coast- 
ways, and situated on a pleasant bay on the 
North side of the lake, in latitude 48. North, 
and longitude 90. West from Greenwich, 
where the compass has not above live degrees 
East variation. 

At the entrance of the bay is an island 
which screens the harbour from every wind 
except the South. The shallowness of the 
water, however, renders it necessary for the 
vessel to anchor near a mile from the shore, 
where there is not more than fourteen feet 
water. This lake justifies the name that has 
been given to it; the Falls of St. Mary, 
which is its Northern extremity, being in 
latitude 46. 31. North, and in longitude 84. 
West, where there is no variation of the com- 
pass whatever, while its Southern extremity, 
at the river St. Louis, is in latitude 46. 45. 
North, and longitude 92. 10. West: its great- 
est breadth is one hundred and twenty miles, 
and its circumference, including its various 
bays, is not less than one thousand two hun- 
dred miles. Along its North shore is the 
safest navigation, as it is a continued moun- 
tainous embankment of rock, from three hun- 
dred to one thousand five hundred feet in 
height. There are numerous coves and sandy 
bays to land, which are frequently sheltered 
by islands from the swell of the lake. This 
is particularly the case at the distance of one 
Ixxii 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

hundred miles to the Eastward of the Grande 
Portage, and is called the Pays Plat. 

This seems to have been caused by some 
convulsion of nature, for many of the islands 
display a composition of lava, intermixed with 
round stones of the size of a pigeon's egg. 
The surrounding rock is generally hard, and 
of a dark blue-grey, though it frequently has 
the appearance of iron and copper. The 
South side of the lake, from Point Shagoi- 
migo East, is almost a continual straight line 
of sandy beach, interspersed with rocky preci- 
pices of lime-stones, sometimes rising to a 
hundred feet in height, without a bay. The 
embankments from that point Westward are, 
in general, of strong clay, mixed with stones, 
which renders the navigation irksome and 
dangerous. On the same side, at the river 
Tonnagan, is found a quantity of virgin cop- 
per. The Americans, soon after they got 
possession of that country, sent an engineer 
thither; and I should not be surprised to 
hear of their employing people to work the 
mine. Indeed, it might be well worthy the 
attention of the British subjects to work the 
mines on the North coast, though they are 
not supposed to be so rich as those on the 
South. 

Lake Superior is the largest and most 
magnificent body of fresh water in the 
world: it is clear and pellucid, of great 
Ixxiii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

depth, and abounding in a great variety of 
fish, which are the most excellent of their 
kind. There are trouts of three kinds, 
weighing from five to fifty pounds, sturgeon^ 
pickerel, pike, red and white carp, black 
bass, herrings, etc., etc., and the last, and 
best of all, the Ticamang, or white fish, 
which weighs from four to sixteen pounds, 
and is of a superior quality in these waters. 

This lake may be denominated the grand 
reservoir of the River St. Laurence, as no 
considerable rivers discharge themselves into 
it. The principal ones are, the St. Louis, 
the Nipigon, the Pic, and the Michipicoten. 
Indeed, the extent of country from which 
any of them flow, or take their course, in any 
direction, cannot admit of it, in consequence 
of the ridge of land that separates them from 
the rivers that empty themselves into Hud- 
son' s-Bay, the gulf of Mexico, and the waters 
that fall in Lake Michigan, which afterward 
become a part of the St. Laurence. 

This vast collection of water is often cov- 
ered with fog, particularly when the wind is 
from the East, which, driving against the 
high barren rocks on the North and West 
shore, dissolves in torrents of rain. It is 
very generally said, that the storms on this 
lake are denoted by a swell on the preceding 
day; but this circumstance did not appear 
from my observation to be a regular phenom- 
Ixxiv 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

enon, as the swells more regularly subsided 
without any subsequent wind. 

Along the surrounding rocks of this im- 
mense lake, evident marks appear of the de- 
crease of its water, by the lines observable 
along them. The space, however, between 
the highest and the lowest, is not so great as 
in the smaller lakes, as it does not amount 
to more than six feet, the former being very 
faint. 

The inhabitants that are found along the 
coast of this water, are all of the Algonquin 
nation, the whole of which do not exceed 150 
families.* 

These people live chiefly on fish ; indeed, 
from what has been said of the country, it 
cannot be expected to abound in animals, as 
it is totally destitute cf that shelter, which 
is so necessary to them. The rocks appear 
to have been over-run by fire, and the stinted 
timber which once grew there, is frequently 
seen lying along the surface of them : but it 
is not easy to be reconciled, that anything 

* In the year 1668, when the first missionaries vis- 
ited the South of this lake, they found the country 
full of inhabitants. They relate, that about this 
time a band of the Nepisingues, who were con- 
verted, emigrated to the Nipigon country, which is 
to the North of Lake Superior. Few of their de- 
scendants are now remaining, and not a trace of 
the religion communicated to them is to be discov- 
ered. 

Ixxv 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

should grow where there is so little appear- 
ance of soil. Between the fallen trees there 
are briars, with hurtleberry and gooseberry 
bushes, raspberries, etc., which invite the 
bears in greater or lesser numbers, as they 
are a favourite food of that animal : beyond 
these rocky banks are found a few moose and 
fallow deer. The waters alone are abun- 
dantly inhabited. 

A very curious phenomenon was observed 
some years ago at the Grande Portage, for 
which no obvious cause could be assigned. 
The water withdrew with great precipitation, 
leaving the ground dry that had never before 
been visible, the fall being equal to four 
perpendicular feet, and rushing back with 
great velocity above the common mark. It 
continued thus falling and rising for several 
hours, gradually decreasing till it stopped at 
its usual height. There is frequently an ir- 
regular influx and deflux, which does not ex- 
ceed ten inches, and is attributed to the wind. 

The bottom of the bay, which forms an 
amphitheatre, is cleared of wood and inclosed ; 
and on the left corner of it, beneath an hill, 
three or four hundred feet in height, and 
crowned by others of a still greater altitude, 
is the fort, picketed in with cedar pallisa- 
does, and inclosing houses built with wood 
and covered with shingles. They are calcu- 
lated for every convenience of trade, as well 
Ixxvi 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

as to accommodate the proprietors and clerks 
during their short residence there. The 
north men live under tents: but the more 
frugal pork-eater lodges beneath his canoe. 
The soil immediately bordering on the lake 
has not proved very propitious, as nothing 
but potatoes have been found to answer the 
trouble of cultivation. This circumstance is 
probably owing to the cold damp fogs of the 
lake, and the moisture of the ground from 
the springs that issue from beneath the hills. 
There are meadows in the vicinity that yield 
abundance of hay for the cattle ; but, as to 
agriculture, it has not hitherto been an object 
of serious consideration. 

I shall now leave these geographical no- 
tices, to give some further account of the 
people from Montreal. — When they are ar- 
rived at the Grande Portage, which is near 
nine miles over, each of them has to carry 
eight packages of such goods and provisions 
as are necessary for the interior countr}^ 
This is a labour which cattle cannot conve- 
niently perform in summer, as both horses 
and oxen were tried by the company without 
success. They are only useful for light, 
bulky articles; or for transporting upon 
sledges, during the winter, whatever goods 
may remain there, especially provision, of 
which it is usual to have a year's stock oq 
hand. 

Ixxvii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

Having finished this toilsome part of their 
duty, if more goods are necessary to be 
transported, they are allowed a Spanish dol- 
lar for each package : and so inured are they 
to this kind of labour, that I have known 
some of them set off with two packages of 
ninety pounds each, and return with two oth- 
ers of the same weight, in the course of six 
hours, being a distance of eighteen miles over 
hills and mountains. This necessary part of 
the business being over, if the season be early 
they have some respite, but this depends upon 
the time the North men begin to arrive from 
their winter quarters, which they commonly 
do early in July. At this period, it is neces- 
sary to select from the pork-eaters, a number 
of men, among whom are the recruits, or 
winterers, sufficient to man the North canoes- 
necessary to carry, to the river of the rainy 
lake, the goods and provision requisite for 
the Athabasca country ; as the people of that 
country (owing to the shortness of the sea- 
son and length of the road, can come no fur- 
ther), are equipped there, and exchange lad- 
ings with the people of whom we are 
speaking, and both return from whence they 
came. This voyage is performed in the 
course of a month, and they are allowed pro- 
portionable wages for their services. 

The North men being arrived at the Grande. 
Portage, are regaled with bread, pork, butter^ 
Ixxviii 



OF THE FUR TRADE, Arc. 

liquor, and tobacco, and such as have not en- 
tered into agreements during the winter, which 
is customary, are contracted with, to return 
and perform the voyage for one, two, or three 
years; their accounts are also settled, and 
such as choose to send any of their earnings 
to Canada, receive drafts to transmit to their 
relations or friends ; and as soon as they can 
be got ready, which requires no more than a 
fortnight, they are again despatched to their 
respective departments. It is, indeed, very 
creditable to them as servants, that though 
they are sometimes assembled to the number 
of twelve hundred men, indulging themselves 
in the free use of liquor, and quarrelling with 
each other, tht;y always show the greatest 
respect to their employers, who are compara- 
tively but few in number, and beyond the aid 
of any legal power to enforce due obedience. 
In short, a degree of subordination can only 
be maintained by the good opinion these 
men entertain of their employers, which has 
been uniformly the case, since the trade has 
been formed and conducted on a regular sys- 
tem. 

The people being despatched to their re- 
spective winter-quarters, the agents from 
Montreal, assisted by their clerks, prepare to 
return there, by getting the furs across the 
portage, and re-making them into packages 
of one hundred pounds weight each, to send 
Ixxix 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

them to Montreal ; where they commonly ar- 
rive m the month of September. 

The mode of living at the Grande Portage 
is as follows : The proprietors, clerks, guides, 
and interpreters, mess together, to the num- 
ber of sometimes an hundred, at several tables, 
in one large hall, the provision consisting of 
bread, salt pork, beef, hams, fish, and veni- 
son, butter, peas, Indian corn, potatoes, tea, 
spirits, wine, etc., and plenty of milk, for 
which purpose several milch cows are con- 
stantly kept. The mechanics have rations of 
such provision, but the canoe -men, both from 
the North and JMontreal, have no other al- 
lowance here, or in the voyage, than Indian 
corn and melted fat. The corn for this pur- 
pose is 2")repared before it leaves Detroit, by 
boiling it in a strong alkali, which takes off 
the outer husk : it is then well washed, and 
carefully dried upon stages, when it is fit for 
use. One quart of this is boiled for two 
hours, over a moderate fire, in a gallon of 
water ; to which, when it has boiled a small 
time, are added two ounces of melted suet; 
this causes the corn to split, and in the time 
mentioned makes a pretty thick pudding. If 
to this is added a little salt, (but not before 
it is boiled, as it would interrupt the opera- 
tion) it makes a wholesome, palatable food, 
and easy of digestion. This quantity is fully 
sufficient for a man's subsistence during 
Ixxx 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

twenty-four hours; though it is not suffi- 
ciently heartening to sustain the strength 
necessary for a state of active labour. The 
Americans call this dish hominy.* 

The trade from the Grande Portage is, in 
some particulars, carried on in a diSPerent 
manner with that from Montreal. The ca- 
noes used in the latter transport are now too 
large for the former, and some of about half 
the size are procured from the natives, and 
are navigated by four, five, or six men, ac- 
cording to the distance which they have to 
go. They carry a lading of about thirty-five 
packages, on an average; of these twenty- 
three are for the purpose of trade, and the 
rest are employed for provisions, stores, and 
baggage. In each of these canoes are a fore- 
man and steersman ; the one to be always on 
the look-out, and direct the passage of the 
vessel, and the other to attend the helm. 
They also carry her, whenever that office is 
necessary. The foreman has the command, 
and the middle-men obey both; the latter 
earn only two-thirds of the wages which are 
paid the two former. Independent of these, 
a conductor or pilot is appointed to every 

* Corn is the cheapest provision that can be pro- 
cured, though from the expense of transport, the 
bushel costs about twenty shillings sterling, at the 
Grande Portage. A man's daily allowance does not 
exceed ten-pence. 

6 Ixxxi 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

four or six of these canoes, whom they are 
all obliged to obey; and is, or at least is 
intended to be, a person of superior ex- 
perience, for which he is proportionably 
paid. 

In these canoes, thus loaded, they embark 
at the North side of the portage, on the river 
Au Tourt, which is very inconsiderable ; and 
after about two miles of a Westerly course, 
is obstructed by the Partridge Portage, six 
hundred paces long. In the spring this 
makes a considerable fall, when the water is 
high, over a perpendicular rock of one hun- 
dred and twenty feet. From thence the 
river continues to be shallow, and requires 
great care to prevent the bottom of the canoe 
from being injured by sharp rocks, for a dis- 
tance of three miles and an half to the Priarie, 
or Meadow, when half the lading is taken 
out, and carried by jjart of the crew, while 
two of them are conducting the canoe among 
the rocks, with the remainder, to the Carre- 
boeuf Portage, three miles and a half more, 
when they unload, and come back .two miles, 
and embark what was left for the other 
hands to carry, which they also land with 
the former ; all of which is carried six hun- 
dred and eighty j^aces, and the canoe led up 
against the rapid. From hence the water is 
better calculated to carry canoes, and leads 
by a winding course to the North of West 
Ixxxii 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

three miles to the Outard Portage, over which 
the canoe, and every thing in her, is carried 
for two thousand four hundred paces. At 
the further end is a very high hill to de- 
scend, over which hangs a rock upwards of 
seven hundred feet high. Then succeeds the 
Outard Lake, about six miles long, lying in a 
North- West course, and about two miles wide 
in the broadest place. 

After passing a very small rivulet, they 
come to the Elk Portage, over which the ca- 
noe and lading are again cai ried one thousand 
one hundred and twenty paces; when they 
enter the lake of the same name, which is an 
handsome piece of water, running North- West 
about four miles, and not more than one mile 
and an half wide.* They then land at the 
Portage de Cerise, over which, and in the 
face of a considerable hill, the canoe and 
cargo are again transported for one thousand 
and fifty paces. This is only separated from 
the second Portage de Cerise, by a mud-pond 
(where there is plenty of water lilies), of a 
quarter of a mile in length ; and this is again 
separated by a similar pond, from the last 
Portage de Cerise, which is four hundred and 
ten paces. Here the same operation is to be 
performed for three hundred and eighty 
paces. They next enter on the Mountain 

*Here is a most excellent fishery for white fish, 
which are exquisite. 

Ixxxiii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

Lake, running North-West by West six 
miles long, and about two miles in its great- 
est breadth. In the centre of this lake, and 
to the right is the Old Eoad, by which I 
never passed, but an adequate notion may bf 
formed of it from the road I am going to de- 
scribe, and which is universally preferred. 
This is first, the small new portage over 
which everything is carried for six hundred 
and twenty-six paces, over hills and gullies ; 
the whole is then embarked on a narrow line 
of water, that meanders South-West about 
two miles and an half. It is necessary to 
unload here, for the length of the canoe, and 
then proceed West half a mile, to the new 
Grande Portage, which is three thousand one 
hundred paces in length, and over very rough 
ground, which requires the utmost exertions 
of the men, and frequently lames them : from 
hence they approach the Rose Lake, the port- 
age of that name being opposite to the junc- 
tion of the road from the Mountain Lake. 
They then embark on the Rose Lake, about 
one mile from the East end of it, and steer 
West by South, in an oblique course, across 
it two miles, then North-West passing the 
Petite Peche to the Marten Portage three 
miles. In this part of the lake the bottom 
is mud and slime, with about three or four 
feet of water over it ; and here I frequently 
struck a canoe pole of twelve feet long, with- 
Ixxxiv 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

out meeting any other obstruction than if the 
whole were water : it has, however, a peculiar 
suction or attractive power, so that it is diffi- 
cult to paddle a canoe over it. There is a 
small space along the South shore, where the 
water is deep, and this effect is not felt. In 
proportion to the distance from this part, the 
suction becomes more powerful: I have, in- 
deed, been told that loaded canoes have been 
in danger of bemg swallowed up, and have 
only owed their preservation to other canoes, 
which were lighter. I have, myseK, found 
it very difficult to get away from this attrac- 
tive power, with six men, and great exertion, 
though we did not appear to be in any danger 
of sinking. 

Over against this is a very high, rocky 
ridge, on the South side, called Marten Port- 
age, which is but twenty paces long, and sep- 
arated from the Perche Portage, which is 
four hundred and eighty paces, by a mud- 
pond, covered with white lilies. From hence 
the course is on the lake of the same name, 
West- South- West three miles to the height 
of land, where the waters of the Dove or 
Pigeon River terminate, and v/hich is one of 
the sources of the great St. Laurence in this 
direction. Having carried the canoe and lad- 
ing over it, six hundred and seventy-nine 
paces, they embark on the lake of Hauteur 
de Terre, which is in the shape of an horse- 
Ixxxv 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

shoe.* It is entered near the curve, and left 
at the extremity of the Western limb, through 
a very shallow channel, where the canoe 
passes half loaded for thirty paces with the 
current, which conducts these waters till they 
discharge themselves, through the succeed- 
ing lakes and rivers, and disembogues itself, 
by the river Nelson, into Hudson's-Bay. 
The first of these is Lac de pierres a fusil, 
running AVest-South-West seven miles long, 
and two wide, and making an angle at 
North-West one mile more, becomes a river 
for half a mile, tumbling over a rock, and 
forming a fall and portage, called the Esca- 
lier, of fifty -five paces ; but from hence it is 
neither lake or river, but possesses the char- 
acter of both, and runs between large rocks, 
which cause a current or rapid for about two 
miles and an half, West-North-West, to the 
portage of the Cheval du Bois. Here the 
canoe and contents are carried three hundred 
and eighty paces, between rocks ; and within 
a qaarter of a mile is the Portage des Gros 
Pins, which is six hundred and forty paces 
over a high ridge. The opposite side of it 

* The route which we have been traveUing hitherto 
leads along the high rocky land or bank of Lake 
Superior on the left. The face of the country offers 
a wild scene of huge hills and rocks, separated by 
stony valleys, lakes and ponds. Wherever there is 
the least soil, it is well covered with trees. 
Ixxxvi 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.. 

is washed by a small lake three mile round; 
and the course is through the East end or 
side of it, three quarters of a mile North- 
East, where there is a rapid. An irregular 
meandering channel, between rocky banks, 
then succeeds, for seven miles and an half, 
to the Maraboeuf Lake, which extends North 
four miles, and is three-quarters of a mile 
wide, terminating by a rapid and decharge 
of one hundred and eighty paces, the rock of 
Saginaga being in sight, which causes a fall 
of about seven feet, and a portage of fifty-five 
paces. 

Lake Saginaga takes its name from its nu- 
merous islands. Its greatest length from 
East to West is about fourteen miles, with 
very irregular inlets, is nowhere more than 
three miles wide, and terminates at the small 
portage of Le Roche, of forty-three paces. 
Erom thence is a rocky, stony passage of one 
mile, to Priarie Portage, which is very im- 
properly named, as there is no ground about 
it that answers to that description, except a 
small spot at the embarking place at the 
West end : to the East is an entire bog ; and 
it is with great difficulty that the lading can 
be landed upon stages, formed by driving 
piles into the mud, and spreading branches 
of trees over them. The portage rises on a 
stony ridge, over which the canoe and cargo 
must be carried for six hundred and eleven 
Ixxxvii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

paces. This is succeeded by an embarkation 
on a small bay, where the bottom is the same 
as has been described in the West end of 
Hose Lake, and it is with great difficulty that 
a laden canoe is worked over it, but it does 
not comprehend more than a distance of two 
hundred yards. From hence the progress 
continues through irregular channels, bounded 
by rocks, in a Westerly course for about five 
miles, to the little Portage des Couteaux, of 
one hundred and sixty-five paces, and the 
Lac des Couteaux, running about South- West 
by West twelve miles, and from a quarter to 
two miles wide. A deep bay runs East three 
miles from the West end, where it is dis- 
charged by a rapid river, and after running 
tv/o miles West, it again becomes still water. 
In this river are two carrying-places, the one 
fifteen, and the other one hundred and ninety 
paces. From this to the Portage des Carpes 
is one mile North- West, leaving a narrow lake 
on the East that runs parallel with the Lac 
des Couteaux, half its length, Avhere there is 
a carrying-place, which is used w^hen the 
water in the river last mentioned is too low. 
The Portage des Carpes is three hundred and 
ninety paces, from whence the water spreads 
irregularly between rocks, five miles North- 
W^est and South-East to the Portage of Lac 
Bois Blanc, which is one hundred and eighty 
paces. Then follows the lake of that name, 
Ixxxviii 



OF TPIE FUR TRADE, &c. 

but I think improperly so called, as the na- 
tives name it the Lac Passeau Minac Sagai- 
gan, or lake of Dry Berries. 

Before the small-pox ravaged this country, 
and completed, what the Nodowasis, in their 
warfare, had gone far to accomplish, the de- 
struction of its inhabitants, the population 
was very numerous : this was also a favourite 
part, where they made their canoes, etc., the 
lake abounding in fish, the country round it 
bemg plentifully supplied with various kinds 
of game, and the rocky ridges, that form the 
boundaries of the water, covered with a vari- 
ety of berries. 

When the French were in possession of 
this country, they had several trading estab- 
lishments on the islands and banks of this 
lake. Since that period, the few people re- 
maining, who were of the Algonquin nation, 
could hardly find subsistence; game having 
become so scarce, that they depended princi- 
pally for food upon fish and wild rice, which 
grows spontaneously in these parts. 

This lake is irregular in its form, and its 
utmost extent from East to West is fifteen 
miles; a point of land, called Point au Pin, 
jutting into it, divides it in two parts: it 
then makes a second angle at the West end, 
to the lesser Portage de Bois Blanc, two hun- 
dred paces in length. This channel is not 
wide, and is intercepted by several rapids in 
Ixxxix 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

the course of a mile : it runs West-North- 
West to the Portage des Pins, over which the 
canoe and lading is again carried four hun- 
dred paces. From hence the channel is also 
intercepted by very dangerous rapids, for two 
miles Westerly, to the point of Pointe du 
Bois, which is two hundred and eighty paces. 
Then succeeds the portage of La Croche, one 
mile more, where the carrying-place is eighty 
paces, and is followed by an embarkation on 
that lake, which takes its name from its fig- 
ure. It extends eighteen miles, in a nean- 
dering form, and in a westerly direction ; it 
is in general very narrow, and at about two- 
thirds of its length becomes very contracted, 
with a strong current. 

Within three miles of the last Portage is 
a remarkable rock, with a smooth face, but 
split and cracked in different parts, which 
hang over the water. Into one of its hori- 
zontal chasms a great number of arrows have 
been shot, which is said to have been done 
by a war party of the Nadowasis or Sieux, 
who had done much mischief in this country, 
and left these weapons as a warning to the 
Chebois or natives, that, notwithstanding its 
lakes, rivers, and rocks, it was not inacces- 
sible to their enemies. 

Lake Croche is terminated by the Portage 
de Kideau, four hundred paces long, and de- 
rives its name from the appearance of the 
xc 



OF THE FUU TRADE. &c. 

water, falling over a rock of upwards of 
thirty feet. Several rapids succeed, with in- 
tervals of still water, for about three miles to 
the Flacon portage, which is very difficult, is 
four hundred paces long, and leads to the 
Lake of La Croix, so named from its shape. 
It runs about North-West eighteen miles to 
the Beaver Dam, and then sinks into a deep 
bay nearly East. The course to the Portage 
is West by North for sixteen miles more from 
the Beaver Dam, and into the East bay is a 
road which was frequented by the French, 
and followed through lakes and rivers until 
they came to Lake Superior by the river 
Caministiquia, thirty miles East of the 
Grande Portage. 

Portage la Croix is six hundred paces long: 
to the next portage is a quarter of a mile, and 
its length is forty paces ; the river winding 
four miles to Vermillion Lake, which runs 
six or seven miles North-North- West, and by 
a narrow strait communicates with Lake 
Namaycan, which takes its name from a par- 
ticular place at the foot of a fall, where the 
natives spear sturgeon : Its course is about 
North-North-W^est and South-South-East, 
with a bay running East, that gives it the 
form of a triangle : its length is about sixteen 
miles to the Nouvelle Portage. 

The discharge of the lake is from a bay on 
the left, and the portage one hundred eighty 
xci 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

paces, to which succeeds a very small river, 
from whence there is but a short distance to 
the next Nouvelle Portage, three hundred and 
twenty paces long. It is then necessary to 
embark on a swamp, or overflowed country, 
where wild rice grows in great abundance. 
There is a channel or small river in the cen- 
tre of this swamp, which is kept with diffi- 
culty, and runs South and North one mile 
and a half. With deepening water, the 
course continues North-North-West one mile 
to the Chaudiere Portage, which is caused by 
the discharge of the waters ranning on the 
left of the road from Lake Namaycan, which 
used to be the common route, but that which 
I have described is the safest as well as short- 
est. From hence there is some current though 
the water is wide spread, and its course about 
North by West three miles and an half to 
the Lac de la Pluie, which lies nearly East 
and West ; from thence about fifteen miles is 
a narrow strait that divides the lake into tv»ro 
unequal parts, from whence to its discharge 
is a distance of twenty-four miles. There is 
a deep bay running North-West on the right, 
that is not included, and is remarkable for 
furnishing the natives with a kind of soft, 
red stone, of which they make their pipes ; it 
also affords an excellent fishery both in the 
summer and winter ; and from it is an easy, 
safe, and short road to the Lac du Bois, 
xcii 



OF THE FUR TRADE. &c. 

(which I shall mention present!}^) for the 
Indians to pass in their small canoes, through 
a small lake and on a small river, whose 
banks furnish abundance of wild rice. The 
discharge of this lake is called Lac de la 
Pluie Kiver, at whose entrance there is a 
rapid below, which is a fine bay, where there 
had been an extensive picketed fort and 
building when possessed by the French : the 
site of it is at present a beautiful meadow, 
surrounded with groves of oaks. From hence 
there is a strong current for two miles, where 
the water falls over a rock twenty feet, and, 
from the consequent turbulence of the water, 
the carrying-place, which is three hundred 
and twenty paces long, derives the name of 
Chaadiere. Two miles onward is the present 
trading establishment, situated on an high 
bank on the North side of the river, in 48. 
37. North latitude. 

Here the people from Montreal come to 
meet those who arrive from the Athabasca 
country, as has been already described, and 
exchange lading with them. This is also the 
residence of the first chief, or Sachem, of all 
the Algonquin tribes, inhabiting the different 
parts of this country. He is by distinction 
called Nectam, which implies personal pre- 
eminence. Here also the elders meet in 
council to treat of peace or war. 

This is one of the finest rivers in the 
xciii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

North- West, and runs a course West and 
East one hundred and twenty computed 
miles ; but in taking its course and distance 
minutely I make it only eighty. Its banks 
are covered with a rich soil, particularly to the 
North, which, in many parts, are clothed 
with fine open groves of oak, with the maple, 
the pine, and the cedar. The Southern bank 
is not so elevated, and displays the maple, 
the white birch, and the cedar, with the 
spruce, the alder, and various underwood. 
Its waters abound in fish, particularly the 
sturgeon, which the natives both spear and 
take with drag-nets. But notwithstanding 
the promise of this soil, the Indians do not 
attend to its cultivation, though they are not 
ignorant of the common process, and are fond 
of the Indian corn, when they can get it from 
us. 

Though the soil at the fort is a stiff clay, 
there is a garden, which, unassisted as it is 
by manure, or any particular attention, is 
tolerably productive. 

We now proceed to mention the Lac du 
Bois, into which this river discharges itself 
in latitude 49. North, and was formerly fa- 
mous for the richness of its banks and waters, 
which abounded with whatever was necessary 
to a savage life. The French had several 
settlements in and about it; but it might be 
almost concluded, that some fatal circum- 
xciv 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

stance had destroyed the game, as war and 
the small-pox had diminished the inhabi- 
tants, it having been very unproductive in 
animals since the British subjects have been 
engaged in travelling through it; though it 
now appears to be recovering its pristine 
state. The few Indians who inhabit it might 
live very comfortably, if they were not so 
immoderately fond of spirituous liquors. 

This lake is also rendered remarkable, in 
consequence of the Americans having named 
it as the spot, from which a line of boundary, 
between them and British America, was to 
run West, until it struck the Mississippi: 
which, however, can never happen, as the 
lS"orth-West part of the Lac du Bois is in 
latitude 49. 37. North, and longitude 94.31. 
West, and the jSTorthernmost branch of the 
source of the Mississippi is in latitude 47. 38. 
North, and longitude 95. 6. West, ascertained 
by Mr. Thomson, astronomer to the North - 
West Company, who was sent expressly for 
that purpose in the spring of 1798. He, in 
the same year, determined the Northern bend 
of the Mississoury to be in latitude 47. 32. 
North, and longitude 101. 25. West; and, 
according to the Indian accounts, it runs to 
the south of West, so that if the Mississoury 
were even to be considered as the Mississippi, 
no Western line could strike it. 

It does not appear to me to be clearly de- 
xcv 



A GENERAL 11! STORY 

termined what course the Line is to take, or 
from what part of Lake Superior it strikes 
through the country to the Lac du Bois : were 
it to follow the principal waters to their 
source, it ought to keep through Lake Supe- 
rior to the River St. Louis, and follow that 
river to its source; close to which is the 
source of the waters falling into the river of 
Lac la Pluie, which is a common route of the 
Indians to the Lac du Bois; the St. Louis 
passes within a short distance of a branch of 
the Mississippi, where it becomes navigable 
for canoes. This will appear more evident 
from consulting the map : and if the naviga- 
tion of the Mississippi is considered as of auy 
consequence by this country, from that part 
of the globe, such is the nearest way to get 
at it. 

But to return to our narrative. The Lac 
du Bois is, as far as I could learn, nearly 
round, and the canoe course through the cen- 
tre of it among a cluster of islands, some of 
which are so extensive that they may be 
taken for tlie mainland. The reduced course 
would be nearly South and North. But fol- 
lowing the navigating course, I make the dis- 
tance seventy-five miles, though in a direct 
line it would fall very short of tliat length. 
At about two-thirds of it there is a small 
carrying-place, when the water is low. The 
carrying-place out of the Lake is on the isl- 
xcvi 



OF THE FUK TRADE, &c. 

and, and named Portage du Eat, in latitude 
49. 37. North, and longitude 94. 15. West; 
it is about fifty paces long. The lake dis- 
charges itself at both ends of this island, and 
forms the River Winipic, which is a large 
body of water, interspersed with numerous 
islands, causing various channels and inter- 
ruptions of portages and rapids. In some 
parts it has the appearance of lakes, with 
steady currents ; I estimate its winding course 
to the Dalles eight miles; to the Grand 
Decharge twenty-five miles and an half, 
which is a long carrying-place for the goods ; 
from thence to the little Decharge one mile 
and an half; to the Terre Jaune Portage two 
miles and an half; then to its galet seventy 
yards ; two miles and three quarters to the 
Terre Blanche, near which is a fall of from 
four to five feet ; three miles and an half to 
Portage de L'Isle, where there is a trading- 
post, and, about eleven miles, on the north 
shore, a trading establishment, which is the 
road in boats, to Albany Eiver, and from 
thence to Hudson' s-Bay. There is also a 
communication with Lake Superior, through 
what is called the Nipigan country, which 
enters that Lake about thirty-five leagues East 
of the Grande Portage. In short, the coun- 
try is so broken by lakes and rivers, that 
people may find their way in canoes in any 
direction they please. It is now four miles 
7 xcvii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

to Portage de L'Isle, which is but short, 
though several canoes have been lost in at- 
tempting to run the rapid. From thence it 
is twenty-six miles to Jacob's Falls, which 
are about fifteen feet high ; and six miles and 
an half to the woody point ; forty yards from 
which is another Portage. They both form 
an high fall, but not perpendicular. From 
thence to another galet, or rock Portage, is 
about two miles, which is one continual rapid 
and cascade ; and about two miles further is 
the Chute a I'Esclave, which is upward of 
thirty feet. The Portage is long, through a 
point covered with wood : it is six miles and 
an half more to the barrier, and ten miles to 
the Grand E,apid . From thence, on the North 
side, is a safe road, when the waters are 
high, through small rivers and lakes, to the 
Lake du Bonnet, called the Pinnawas, from 
the man who discovered it: to the White 
River, so called from its being, for a consid- 
erable length, a succession of falls and cata- 
racts, is twelve miles. Here are seven port- 
ages, in so short a space, that the whole of 
them are discernible at the same moment. 
From this to Lake du Bonnet is fifteen miles 
more, and four miles across it to the rapid. 
Here the Pinnawas Road joins, and from 
thence it is two miles to the Galet du Lac du 
Bonnet; from this to the Galet du Bonnet 
one mile and an half ; thence to the Portage 
xcviii 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

of the same name is three miles. This port- 
age is near half a league in length, and de- 
rives its name from the custom bhe Indians 
have of crowning stones, laid in a circle on 
the highest rock in the portage, with wreaths 
of herbage and branches. There have been 
examples of men taking seven packages of 
ninety pounds each, at one end of the port- 
age, and putting them down at the other 
without stopping. 

To this another small portage immediately 
succeeds, over a rock producing a fall. From 
thence to the fall of Terre Blanche is two 
miles and an half; to the first portage Des 
Eaux qui Remuent is three miles; to the 
next, of the same name, is but a few yards 
distant; to the third and last, which is a 
Decharge, is three miles and an half; and 
from this to the last Portage of the river, one 
mile and an half; and to the establishment, 
or provision house, is two miles and an half. 
Here also the French had their principal in- 
land depot, and got their canoes made. 

It is here that the present traders, going to 
great distances, and where provision is diffi- 
cult to procure, receive a supply to carry 
them to the Rainy Lake, or Lake Superior. 
From the establishment to the entrance of 
Lake Winipic, is four miles and an half, lat- 
itude 50. 37. North. 

The country, soil, produce, and climate, 
xcix 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

froin Lake Superior to this place, bear a gen- 
eral resemblance, with, a predominance of 
rock and water : the former is of the granite 
kind. Where there is any soil it is well cov- 
ered with wood, such as oak, elm, ash of dif- 
ferent kinds, maple of two kinds, pines of 
various descriptions, among which are what 
I call the cypress, with the hickory, iron- 
wood, laird, poplar, cedar, black and white 
birch, etc., etc. Vast quantities of wild rice 
are seen throughout the country, which the 
natives collect in the month of August for 
their winter stores.* To the North of fifty 
degrees it is hardly known, or at least does 
not come to maturity. 

Lake Winipic is the great reservoir of sev- 
eral large rivers, and discharges itself by the 
River Nelson into Hudson's Bay. The first 
in rotation, next to that I have just de- 
scribed, is the Assiniboin, or Red River, 
which at the distance of forty miles coast- 
wise, disembogues on the south west side of 
the Lake Winipic. It alternately receives 
those two denominations from its dividing, 
at the distance of about thirty miles from the 
lake, into two large branches. The Eastern 
branch, called the Red River, runs in a 
Southern direction to near the head waters of 

* The fruits are, strawberries, hurtleberries, plums, 
and cherries, hazelnuts, gooseberries, currants, rasp- 
berries, poires, etc. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, i&c. 

the Mississippi. On this are two trading 
establishments. The country on either side 
is but partially supplied with wood, and con- 
sists of plains covered with herds of the buf- 
falo and elk, especially on the Western side. 
On the Eastern side are lakes and rivers, and 
the whole country is well wooded, level, 
abounding in beaver, bears, moose-deer, fal- 
low deer, etc., etc. The natives, who are of 
the Algonquin tribe, are not very numerous, 
and are considered as the natives of Lake 
Superior. This country being near the Mis- 
sissippi, is also inhabited by the Nadowasis, 
who are the natural enemies of the former; 
the head of the water being the war-line, they 
are in a continual state of hostility; and 
though the Algonquins are equally brave, the 
others generally out- number them ; it is very 
probable, therefore, that if the latter continue 
to venture out of the woods, which form 
their only protection, they will soon be ex- 
tirpated. There is not, perhaps, a finer coun- 
try in the world for the residence of uncivil- 
ised man, than that which occupies the space 
between this river and Lake Superior. It 
abounds in every thing necessary to the wants 
and comforts of such a people. Fish, veni- 
son, and fowl, with wild rice, are in great 
plenty ; while, at the same time, their subsist- 
ence requires that bodily exercise so neces- 
sary to health and vigour. 
ci 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

This great extent of country was formerly- 
very populous, but from the information I 
received, the aggregate of its inhabitants does 
not exceed three hundred warriors; and, 
among the few whom I saw, it appeared to 
me that the widows were more numerous than 
the men. The raccoon is a native of this 
country, but is seldom found to the North- 
ward of it. 

The other branch is called after the tribe 
of the Nadowasis, who here go by the name 
of Assiniboins, and are the principal inhabi- 
tants of it. It runs from the North-North- 
West, and in the latitude of 51. 15. West, 
and longitude 103. 20., rising in the same 
mountains as the river Dauphin, of which I 
shall speak in due order. They must have 
separated from their nation at a time beyond 
our knowledge, and live in peace with the 
Algonquins and Knisteneaux. 

The country between this and the Ked 
Kiver, is almost a continual plain to the Mis- 
sissoury. The soil is sand and gravel, with 
a slight intermixture of earth, and produces 
a short grass. Trees are very rare; nor are 
there on the banks of the river sufficient, 
except in particular spots, to build houses 
and supply fire-wood for the trading establish- 
ments, of which there are four principal ones. 
Both these rivers are navigable for canoes to 
their source, without a fall ; though in some 
cii 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

parts there are rapids, caused by occasional 
beds of limestone, and gravel ; but in general 
they have a sandy bottom. 

The Assiniboins, and some of the Fall, or 
Big-bellied Indians, are the principal inhabi- 
tants of this country, and border on the river, 
occupying the centre part of it; that next 
Lake Winipic, and about its source, being the 
station of the Algonquins and Knisteneaux, 
who have chosen it in preference to their own 
country. They do not exceed five hundred 
families. They are not beaver hunters, which 
accounts for their allowing the division just 
mentioned, as the lower and upper parts of 
this river have those animals, which are not 
found in the intermediate district. They 
confine themselves to hunting the buffalo, 
and trapping wolves, which cover the coun- 
try. What they do not want of the former 
for raiment and food, they sometimes make 
into pemmican, or pounded meat, while they 
melt the fat, and prepare the skins in their 
hair, for winter. The wolves they never eat, 
but produce a tallow from their fat, and pre- 
pare their skins ; all which they bring to ex- 
change for arms and ammunition, rum, to- 
bacco, knives, and various baubles, with those 
who go to traffic in their country. 

The Algonquins, and the Knisteneaux, on 
the contrary, attend to the fur-hunting, so 
that they acquire the additional articles of 
ciii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

cloth, blankets, etc., but their passion for 
rum often puts it out of their power to sup- 
ply themselves with real necessaries. 

The next river of magnitude is the river 
Dauphin, which empties itself at the head of 
St. Martin's Bay, on the West side of the 
Lake Winipic, latitude nearly 52. 15, North, 
taking its source in the same mountains as 
the last-mentioned river, as well as the 
Swan and Red-Deer rivers, the latter passing 
through the lake of the same name, as well 
as the former, and both continuing their 
course through the Manitoba Lake, which, 
from thence, runs parallel with Lake Wini- 
pic, to within nine miles of the Ked River, 
and by what is called the river Dauphin, dis- 
embogues its waters, as already described, 
into that lake. These rivers are very rapid, 
and interrupted by falls, etc., the bed being 
generally rocky. All this country, to the 
South branch of the Saskatchiwine, abounds 
in beaver, moose-deer, fallow-deer, elks, 
bears, buffaloes, etc. The soil is good, and 
wherever any attempts have been made to 
raise the esculent plants, etc., it has been 
found productive. 

On these waters are three principal forts 
for trade. Fort Dauphin, which was estab- 
lished by the French before the conquest. 
Red-Deer River, and Swan-River Forts, with 
occasional detached posts from these. The 
civ 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

inhabitants are tlie Knisteneaux, from the 
North of Lake Winipic; and Algonquins 
from the country between the Red River and 
Lake Superior; and some from the Rainy 
Lake : but as they are not fixed inhabitants, 
their number cannot be determined : they do 
not, however, at any time exceed two hun- 
dred warriors. In general they are good 
hunters. There is no other considerable 
river except the Saskatchiwine, which I shall 
mention presently, that empties itself into 
the Lake Winipic. 

Those on the North side are inconsider- 
able, owing to the comparative vicinity of the 
high land that separates the waters coming 
this way, from those discharging into Hud- 
son's Bay. The course of the lake is about 
West-ISTorth-West and South-South-East, and 
the East end of it is in 50. 37. North. It 
contracts at about a quarter of its length to 
a strait, in latitude 51. 45., and is no more 
than two miles broad, where the South shore 
is gained through islands, and crossing vari- 
ous bays to the discharge of the Saskatchi- 
wine, in latitude 53. 15. This lake, in com- 
mon with those of this country, is bounded 
on the North with banks of black and grey 
rock, and on the South by a low level coun- 
try, occasionally interrupted with a ridge or 
bank of lime-stones, lying in stratas, and ris- 
iQg to the perpendicular height of from 
cv 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

twenty to forty feet ; these are covered with 
a small quantity of earth, forming a level 
surface, which bears timber, but of a mod- 
erate growth, and declines to a swamp. 
Where the banks are low, it is evident in 
many places that the waters are withdrawn, 
and never rise to those heights which were 
formerly washed by them. 

The inhabitants who are found along this 
lake are of the Knisteneaux and Algonquin 
tribes, and but few in number, though game 
is not scarce, and there is fish in great abun- 
dance. The black bass is found there, and 
no further West; and beyond it no maple 
trees are seen, either hard or soft. 

On entering the Saskatchiwine, in the 
course of a few miles, the great rapid inter- 
rupts the passage. It is about three miles 
long. Through the greatest part of it the 
canoe is towed, half or full ladem, according 
to the state of the waters : the canoe and its 
contents are then carried one thousand one 
hundred paces. The channel here is near a 
mile wide, the waters tumbling over ridges of 
rocks that traverse the river. The South 
bank is very high, rising upwards of fifty 
feet, of the same rock as seen on the South 
side of the Lake Winipic, and the North is 
not more than a third of that height. There 
is an excellent sturgeon-fishery at the foot of 
this cascade, and vast numbers of pelicans, 
cvi 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

cormorants, etc., frequent it, where they 
watch to seize the fish that may be killed or 
disabled by the force of the waters. 

About two miles from this Portage the 
navigation is again interrupted by the Port- 
age of the Koche Eouge, which is an hundred 
yards long; and a mile and an half from 
thence the river is barred by a range of isl- 
ands, forming rapids between them; and 
through these it is the same distance to the 
rapid of Lake Travers, which is four miles 
right across, and eight miles in length. Then 
succeeds the Grande Decharge, and several 
rapids, for four miles to the Cedar Lake, 
which is entered through a small channel on 
the left, formed by an island, as going round 
it would occasion loss of time. Li this dis- 
tance banks of rocks (such as have already 
been described) appear at intervals on either 
side ; the rest of the country is low. This is 
the case along the South bank of the lake and 
the islands, while the North side, which is 
very uncommon, is level throughout. This 
lake runs first West four miles, then as much 
more West-South- West, across a deep bay on 
the right, then six miles to the Point de 
Lievre, and across another bay again on the 
right; then North-West eight miles, across 
a still deeper bay on the right ; and seven 
miles parallel with the North coast. North' 
North- West through islands, five miles more 
cvii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

to Fort Bourbon, =* situated on a small island, 
dividing this from Mud Lake. 

The Cedar Lake is from four to twelve 
miles wide, exclusive of the bays. Its banks 
are covered with wood, and abound in game, 
and its waters produce plenty of fish, partic- 
ularly the sturgeon. The Mud Lake, and 
the neighbourhood of the Fort Bourbon, 
abound with geese, ducks, swans, etc., and 
was formerly remarkable for a vast number 
of martens, of which it cannot now boast but 
a very small proportion. 

The Mud Lake must have formerly been a 
part of the Cedar Lake, but the immense 
quantity of earth and sand, brought down by 
the Saskatchiwine, has filled up this part of 
it for a circumference whose diameter is at 
least fifteen or twenty miles : part of which 
space is still covered with a few feet of water, 
but the greatest proportion is shaded with 
large trees, such as the liard, the swamp-ash, 
and the willow. This land consists of many 
islands, which consequently form various 
channels, several of which are occasionally 
dry, and bearing young wood. It is, indeed, 
more than probable that this river will, in 
the course of time, convert the whole of the 
Cedar Lake into a forest. To the North- 
West the cedar is not to be found. 

*This was also a principal post of the French, 
who gave it its name. 

cviii 



OF THE FUR TRADE. &c. 

From this lake the Saskatchiwine may be 
considered as navigable to near its source in 
the rocky mountains, for canoes, and without 
a carrying-place, making a great bend to 
Cumberland House, on Sturgeon Lake. From 
the confluence of its North and South 
branches its course is Westerly; spreading 
itself, it receives several tributary streams, 
and encompasses a large tract of country, 
which is level, particularly along the South 
l^ranch, but is little known. Beaver, and 
other animals, whose furs are valuable, are 
amongst the inhabitants of the North-West 
laranch, and the plains are covered with buf- 
faloes, wolves, and small foxes ; particularly 
about the South branch, which, however, has 
of late claimed some attention, as it is now 
understood, that where the plains terminate 
"towards the rocky mountain, there is a space 
of hilly country clothed with wood, and in- 
habited also by animals of the fur kind. This 
has been actually determined to be the case 
towards the head of the North branch, where 
the trade has been carried to about the lati- 
tude 54. North, and longitude 114. 30. West. 
The bed and banks of the latter, in some few 
places, discover a stratum of free-stone ; but, 
in general, they are composed of earth and 
sand. The plains are sand and gravel, cov- 
ered with line grass, and mixed with a small 
quantity of vegetable earth. This is partic- 
cix 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

ularly observable along the North branch, 
the West side of which is covered with wood. 

There are on this river five principal 
factories for the convenience of trade with 
the natives. Nepawi House, South-branch 
House, Fort-George House, Fort-Augustus 
House, and Upper Establishment. There 
have been many others, which, from various 
causes, have been changed for these, while 
there are occasionally others depending on 
each of them. 

The inhabitants, from the information I 
could obtain, are as follow : 

At ISTepawi and South-Branch House, about 
thirty tents of Knisteneaux, or ninety war- 
riors; and sixty tents of Stone Indians, or 
Assiniboins, who are their neighbours, and 
are equal to two hundred men : their hunting 
ground extends upwards to about the Eagle 
Hills. Next to them are those who trade at 
Forts George and Augustus, and "are about 
eighty tents or upwards of Knisteneaux : on 
either side of the river, their number may be 
two hundred. In the same country are one 
hundred and forty tents of Stone Indians : 
not quite half of them inhabit the West 
woody country; the others never leave the 
plains, and their numbers cannot be less than 
four hundred and fifty men. At the South- 
ern Head-waters of the North-branch dwells 
a tribe called Sarsees, consisting of about 
ex 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

thirty-five tents, or one hundred and twenty 
men. Opposite to those Eastward, on the 
head-waters of the South Branch, are the 
Picaneaux, to the number of from twelve to 
fifteen hundred men. Next to them, on the 
same \yater, are the Blood-Indians, of the 
same nation as the last, to the number of 
about fifty tents, or two hundred and fifty 
men. From them downwards extend the 
Black-Feet Indians, of the same nation as 
the two last tribes: their number may be 
eight hundred men. Next to them, and who 
extend to the confluence of the South and 
North branch, are the Fall, or Big-bellied 
Indians, who may amount to about six hun- 
dred warriors. 

Of all these different tribes, those who in- 
habit the broken country on the North-West 
side, and the source of the North branch, are 
beaver-hunters ; the others deal in provisions, 
wolf, buffalo, and fox skins; and many 
people on the South branch do not trouble 
themselves to come near the trading es- 
tablishments. Those who do, choose such 
establishments as are next to their country. 
The Stone-Indians here, are the same people 
as the Stone-Indians, or Assiniboins, w^ho 
inhabit the river of that name already de- 
scribed, and both are detached tribes from 
the Nadowasis, who inhabit the Western side 
of the Mississippi, and lower part of the Mis- 
cxi 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

sisoury. The Fall, or Big-bellied Indians, 
are from the South-Eastward also, and of a 
people who inhabit the plains from the North 
bend of the last mentioned river, latitude 47. 
32. North, longitude 101. 25. West, to the 
South bend of the Assiniboin Kiver, to the 
number of seven hundred men. Some of 
them occasionally come to the latter river to 
'exchange dressed buffalo robes and bad wolf- 
skins for articles of no great value. 

The Picaneaux, Black-Feet, and Blood- 
Indians, are a distinct people, speak a lan- 
guage of their own, and, I have reason to 
think, are travelling North-West, as well as 
the others just mentioned : nor have I heard 
of any Indians with whose language that 
which they speak has any affinity. — They are 
the people who deal in horses, and take them 
upon the war-parties towards Mexico ; from 
which, it is evident, that the country to the 
South-East of them consists of plains, as 
those animals could not well be conducted 
through an hilly and woody country, inter- 
sected by waters. 

The Sarsees, who are but few in number, 
appear from their language, to come on the 
contrary from the North-West, and are of 
the same people as the Rocky-Mountain In- 
dians described in my second journal, who 
are a tribe of the Chepewyans; and, as for 
the Knisteneaux, there is no question of their 
cxii 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

having been, and continuing to be, invaders 
of this country, from the Eastward. For- 
merly, they struck terror into all the other 
tribes whom they met; but now they have 
lost the respect that was paid them ; as those 
whom they formerly considered as barbarians 
are now their allies, and consequently become 
better acquainted with them, and have ac- 
quired the use of fire-arms. The former are 
still proud without power, and affect to con- 
sider the others as their inferiors : those con- 
sequently are extremely jealous of them, and, 
depending upon their own superiority in num- 
bers, will not submit tamely to their insults ; 
so that the consequences often prove fatal, 
and the Knisteneaux are thereby decreasing 
both in power and number ; spirituous liquors 
also tend to their diminution, as they are in- 
stigateel thereby to engage in quarrels which 
frequently have the most disastrous termina^ 
tion among themselves. 

The Stone-Indians must not be considered 
in the same point of view respecting the 
Knisteneaux, for they have been generally 
obliged, from various causes, to court their 
alliance. They, however, are not without 
their disagreements, and it is sometimes very 
difficult to compose their differences. These- 
quarrels occasionally take place with the 
traders, and sometimes have a tragical con- 
clusion. They generally originate in conse^ 
8 cxiii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

quence of stealing women and horses : they 
have great numbers of the latter throughout 
their plains, which are brought, as has been 
observed, from the Spanish settlements in 
Mexico; and many of them have been seen 
even in the back parts of this country, branded 
with the initials of their original owners' 
names. Those horses are distinctly employed 
as beasts of burden, and to chase the buffalo. 
The former are not considered as being of 
much value, as they may be purchased for a 
gun, which costs no more than twenty-one 
shillings in Great Britain. Many of the hunt- 
ers cannot be purchased with ten, the com- 
parative value of which exceeds the property 
of any native. 

Of these useful animals no care whatever 
is taken, as when they are no longer em- 
ployed, they are turned loose winter and 
summer to provide for themselves. Here, it 
is to be observed, that the country, in gen- 
eral, on the West and North side of this 
great riv^er, is broken by the lakes and rivers 
with small intervening plains, where the soil 
is good, and the grass grows to some length. 
To these the male buffaloes resort for the 
winter, and if it be very severe, the females 
also are obliged to leave the plains. 

But to return to the route by which the 
progress West and North is made through 
this continent. 

cxiv 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

We leave the Saskatdiiwine"* by entering 
the river which forms the discharge of the 
Sturgeon Lake, on whose East bank is situ- 
ated Cumberland house, in latitude 53. 56. 
North, longitude 102. 15. The distance be- 
tween the entrance and Cumberland house is 
estimated at twenty miles. It is very evi- 
dent that the mud which is carried down by 
the Saskatchiwine River, has formed the land 
that lies between it and the lake, for the dis- 
tance of upwards of twenty miles in the line 
of the river, which is inundated during one 
half of the summer, though covered with 
wood. This lake forms an irregular horse- 
shoe, one side of which runs to the North- 
West, and bears the name of Pine-Island 
Lake, and the other, known by the name al~ 
ready mentioned, runs to the East of North,, 
and is the largest : its length is about twenty- 
seven miles, and its greatest breadth about 
six miles. The North side of the latter is 
the same kind of rock as that described in 
Lake Winipic, on the West shore. In lati- 
tude 54. 16. North, the Sturgeon- Weir River 
discharges itself into this lake, and its bed 

*It maybe proper to observe, that the French had 
two settlements upon the Saskatchiwine, long be- 
fore, and at the conquest of Canada; the first at the 
Pasquia, near Carrot River, and the other at Nipawi, 
where they had agricultural instruments and wheel 
carriages, marks of both being found about those 
establishments, where the soil is excellent, 
cxv 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

appears to be of the same kind of rock, and 
is almost a continual rapid. Its direct course 
is about West by North, and with its wind- 
ings, is about thirty miles. It takes its wa- 
ters into the Beaver Lake the South-West 
side of which consists of the same rock lying 
in thin stratas : the route then proceeds from 
island to island for about twelve miles, and 
along the North shore, for four miles more, 
the whole being a North- West course to the 
entrance of a river, in latitude 54. 32. North. 
The lake, for this distance, is about four or 
five miles wide, and abounds with fish com- 
mon to the country. The part of it upon the 
right of that which has been described, ap- 
pears more considerable. The islands are 
rocky, and the lake itself surrounded by 
rocks. The communication from hence to 
the Bouleau Lake, alternately narrows into 
rivers and spreads into small lakes. The 
interruptions are, the Pente Portage, which 
is succeeded by tlie Grand Rapid, where 
there is a Decharge, the Carp Portage, the 
Bouleau Portage m latitude 54. 50. North, 
including a distance, together with the wind- 
ings, of thirty-four miles, in a Westerly di- 
rection. The Lake de Bouleau then follows. 
This lake might with greater propriety be 
denominated a canal, as it is not more than 
a mile in breadth. Its course is rather to the 
East of North for twelve miles to Portage de 
cxvi 



OF THE FUR TRADE &c. 

L'Isle. From thence there is still water to 
Portage d'Epinettes, except an adjoining 
rapid. The distance is not more than four 
miles Westerly. After crossing this Port- 
age, it is not more than two miles to Lake 
Miron, which is in latitude 55. 7. North, 
Its length is about twelve miles, and its 
breadth irregular, from two to ten miles. It 
is only separated from Lake du Chitique, or 
Pelican Lake, by a short, narrow, and small 
strait. That lake is not more than seven 
miles long, and its course about North-West. 
The Lake des Bois then succeeds, the passage 
to which is through small lakes, separated 
by falls and rapids. The first is a Decharge : 
then follow the three galets, in immediate 
succession. From hence Lake des Bois runs" 
about twenty-one miles. Its course is South- 
South-East, and North-North-West, and is 
full of islands. The passage continues: 
through an intricate, narrow, winding, and 
shallow channel for eight miles. The inter- 
ruptions in this distance are frequent, but 
depend much on the state of the waters. 
Having passed them, it is necessary to cross 
the Portage de Traite, or, as it is called 
by the Indians, Athiquisipichigan Ouinigam, 
or the Portage of the Stretched Frog Skin, to 
the Missinipi. The waters already described 
discharge themselves into Lake Winipic, and 
augment those of the river Nelson. These 
cxvii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

which we are now entering are called the 
Missinipi, or great Churchill River. 

All the country to the South and East of 
this, within the line of the progress that has 
been described, is interspersed by lakes, hills, 
and rivers, and is full or animals, of the fur- 
kind, as well as the moose- deer. Its inhabi- 
tants are the Knisteneaux Indians, who are 
called by the servants of the Hudson's Bay 
Company, at York, their home-guards. 

The traders from Canada succeeded for 
several years in getting the largest proportion 
of their furs, till the year 1793, when the 
servants of that company thought proper to 
send people amongst them, (and why they 
did not do it before is best known to them- 
selves), for the purpose of trade, and secur- 
ing their credits, which the Indians were apt 
to forget. From the short distance they had 
to come, and the quantity of goods they sup- 
plied, the trade has, in a great measure, re- 
verted to them, as the merchants from Can- 
ada could not meet them upon equal terms. 
What added to the loss of the latter, was the 
murder of one of their traders by the Indians, 
about this period. Of these people not above 
eighty men have been known to the traders 
from Canada, but they consist of a much 
greater number. 

The Portage de Traite, as has been already 
hinted, received its name from Mr. Joseph 
«xviii 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

Frobisher, who penetrated into this part of 
the country from Canada, as early as the 
years 1774 and 1775, where he met with the 
Indians in the spring, on their way to 
Churchill, according to annual custom, with 
their canoes full of valuable furs. They 
traded with him for as many of them as his 
canoes could carry, and in consequence of 
this transaction, the Portage received and 
has since retained its present appellation. 
He also denominated these waters the Eng- 
lish River. The Missinipi is the name 
which it received from the Knisteneaux, 
when they first came to this country, and 
either destroyed or drove back the natives, 
whom they held in great contempt, on many 
accounts, but particularly for their ignorance 
in hunting the beaver, as well as in prepar- 
ing, stretching, and drying the skins of those 
animals. And as a sign of their derision, 
they stretched the skin of a frog, and hung it 
up at the Portage. This was, at that time, 
the utmost extent of their conquest or war- 
faring progress West, and is in latitude 55. 
25. ¥orth, and longitude 103. 45. West. 
The river here, which bears the appearance 
of a lake, takes its name from the Portage, 
and is full of islands. It runs from East to 
West about sixteen miles, and is from four 
to five miles broad. Then succeed falls and 
cascades which form what is called the grand 
cxix 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

rapid. From thence there is a succession of 
small lakes and rivers, interrupted by rapids 
and falls, viz., the Portage de Bareel, the 
Portage de L'Isle, and that of the Rapid 
River. The course is twenty miles from 
East-South-East to ]Srorth-:N"orth-West. The 
Rapid-River Lake then runs West five miles, 
and is of an oval form. The rapid river is 
the discharge of Lake la Ronge, where there 
has been an establishment for trade from the 
year 1782. Since the small-pox ravaged 
these parts, there have been but few inhabi- 
tants ; these are of the Knisteneaux tribe, and 
do not exceed thirty men. The direct navi- 
gation continues to be through rivers and ca- 
nals, interrupted by rapids ; and the distance 
to the first Decharge is four miles, in a West- 
erly direction. Then follows Lake de la 
Montague, which runs South-South-West 
three miles and an half, then North six miles, 
through narrow channels, formed by islands, 
and continues North-North-West five miles, 
to the portage of the same name, which is no 
sooner crossed, than another appears in sight, 
leading to the Otter Lake, from whence it 
is nine miles Westerly to the Otter Portage, 
in latitude 55. 39. Between this and the 
Portage du Diable, are several rapids, 
and the distance three miles and an half. 
Then succeeds the lake of the same name, 
running from South-East to North- West, 
cxx 



OF THE FUR TRADE. &c. 

five miles, and West four miles and an 
half. 

There is then a succession of small lakes, 
rapids, and falls, producing the Portage des 
Ecors, Portage du Galet, and Portage des 
Morts, the whole comprehending a distance 
of six miles, to the lake of the latter name. 
On the left side is a point covered with hu- 
man bones, the relics of the small-pox ; which 
circumstance gave the Portage and the lake 
this melancholy denomination. Its course is 
South- West fifteen miles, while its breadth 
does not exceed three miles. From thence a 
rapid river leads to Portage de Hallier, which 
is followed by Lake de L'Isle d'Ours: it is, 
however, improperly called a lake, as it con- 
tains frequent impediments amongst its isl- 
ands, from rapids. There is a very danger- 
ous one about the centre of it, which is 
named the Rapid qui ne parle point, or that 
never speaks, from its silent whirlpool- mo- 
tion. In some of the whirlpools the suction 
is so powerful, that they are carefully 
avoided. At some distance from the silent 
rapid is a narrow strait, where the Indians 
have painted red figures on the face of a 
rock, and where it was their custom formerly 
to make an offering of some of the articles 
which they had with them, in their way to 
and from Churchill. The course of this lake, 
which is very meandering, may be estimated 
cxxi 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

at thirty -eight miles, and is terminated by 
the Portage du Canot Tourner, from the dan- 
ger to which those are subject who venture 
to run this rapid. From thence a river of 
one mile and an half North-West course 
leads to the Portage de Bouleau, and in about 
half a mile to Portage des Epingles, so called 
from the sharpness of its stones. Then fol- 
lows the Lake des Souris, the direction across 
which is amongst islands, North-West by 
West six miles. In this traverse is an is- 
land, which is remarkable for a very large 
stone, in the form of a bear, on which the 
natives have painted the head and snout of 
that animal; and here they also were for- 
merly accustomed to offer sacrifices. This 
lake is separated only by a narrow strait 
from the Lake du Serpent, which runs North- 
North-West seven miles, to a narrow chan- 
nel, that connects it with another lake, bear- 
ing the same name, and running the same 
course for eleven miles, when the rapid of 
the same denomination is entered on the 
West side of the lake. It is to be remarked 
here, that for about three or four miles on 
the North- West side of this lake, there is an 
high bank of clay and sand, clothed with 
cypress trees, a circumstance which is not 
observable on any lakes hitherto mentioned, 
as they are bounded, particularly on the 
North, by black and grey rocks. It may also 
cxxii 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

be considered as a most extraordinary cir- 
cumstance, that the Chepewyans go Korth- 
West from hence to the barren grounds, 
which are their own country, without the 
assistance of canoes; as it is well known 
that in every other part which has been de- 
scribed, from Cumberland House, the coun- 
try is broken on either side of the direction 
to a great extent : so that a traveller could 
not go at right angles with any of the waters 
already mentioned, without meeting with 
others in every eight or ten miles. This will 
also be found to be very much the case in 
proceeding to Portage la Loche. 

The last mentioned rapid is upwards of 
three miles long, North-West by West; 
there is, however, no carrying, as the line 
and poles are sufficient to drag and set the 
canoes against the current. Lake Croche is 
then crossed in a Westerly direction of six 
miles, though its whole length may be twice 
that distance : after which it contracts to a 
river that runs Westerly for ten miles, when 
it forms a bend, which is left to the South, 
and entering a portion of its waters called 
the Grass Eiver, whose meandermg course is 
about six miles, but in a direct line not more 
than half that length, where it receives its 
waters from the great river, which then runs 
Westerly eleven miles before it forms the 
Knee Lake, whose direction is to the North 
cxxiii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

of West. It is full of islands for eighteen 
miles, and its greatest apparent breadth is 
not more than five' miles. The portage of 
the same name is several hundred yards long, 
and over large stones. Its latitude is 55. 50. 
and longitude 106. 30. Two miles further 
North is the commencement of the Croche 
Rapid, which is a succession of cascades for 
about three miles, making a bend due South 
to the Lake du Primeau, whose course is 
various, and through islands, to the distance 
of about fifteen miles. The banks of this 
lake are low, stony, and marshy, whose grass 
and rushes afford shelter and food to great 
numbers of wild fowl. At its Western ex- 
tremity is Portage la Puise, from whence the 
river takes a meandering course, widening 
and contracting at intervals, and is much in- 
terrupted by rapids. After a Westerly course 
of twenty miles, it reaches Portage Pellet. 
From hence, in the course of seven miles, are 
three rapids, to which succeeds the Shagoina 
Lake, which may be eighteen miles in cir- 
cumference. Then Shagoina strait and rapid 
lead into the Lake of Isle a la Crosse, in 
which the course is South twenty miles, and 
South-South-West fourteen miles, to the 
Point au Sable ; opposite to which is the dis- 
charge of the Beaver-River, bearing South 
six miles : the lake in the distance run, does 
not exceed twelve miles in its greatest 
cxxiv 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

breadth. It now turns West- South-West, 
the Isle a la Crosse being on the South, and 
the main land on the North; and it clears 
the one and the other in the distance of 
three miles, the water presenting an open 
horizon to right and left; that on the left 
formed by a deep narrow bay, about ten 
leagues in depth ; and that to the right by 
what is called la Riviere Creuse, or Deep 
River, being a canal of still water, which is 
here four miles wide. On following the last 
course. Isle a la Crosse Fort appears on a 
low isthmus, at the distance of five miles, 
and is in latitude 55. 25. North, and longi- 
tude 107. 48. West. 

This lake and fort take their names from 
the island just mentioned, which, as has 
been already observed, received its denomi- 
nation from the game of the cross, which 
forms a principal amusement among the na- 
tives. 

The situation of this lake, the abundance 
of the finest fish in the world to be found in 
its waters, the richness of its surrounding 
banks and forests, in moose and fallow deer, 
with the vast numbers of the smaller tribes 
of animals, whose skins are precious, and the 
numerous flocks of wild fov/1 that frequent 
it in the spring and fall, make it a most de- 
sirable spot for the constant residence of 
some, and the occasional rendezvous of oth- 
cxxv 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

ers of the inhabitants of the country, partic- 
ularly of the Knisteneaux. 

Who the original people were that were 
driven from it, when conquered by the Knis- 
teneaux, is not now known, as not a single 
vestige remains of them. The latter, and 
the Chepewyans, are the only people that 
have been known here ; and it is evident that 
the last-mentioned consider themselves as 
strangers, and seldom remain longer than 
three or four years, without visiting their 
relations and friends in the barren grounds, 
which they term their native country. They 
were for some time treated by the Kniste- 
neaux as enemies; who now allow them to 
hunt to the North of the track which has 
been described, from Fort du Traite up- 
wards, but when they occasionally meet 
them, they insist on contributions, and fre- 
quently punish resistance with their arms. 
This is sometimes done at the forts, or places 
of trade, but then it appears to be a volun- 
tary gift. A treat of rum is expected on the 
occasion, which the Chepewyans on no other 
account ever purchase ; and those only who 
have had frequent intercourse Avith the Knis- 
teneaux have any inclination to drink it. 

When the Europeans first penetrated into 

this country, in 1777, the people of both 

tribes were numerous, but the small-pox was 

fatal to them all, so that there does not exist 

cxxvi 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

of the one, at present, more than forty resi- 
dent families ; and the other has been from 
about thirty to two hundred families. These 
numbers are applicable to the constant and 
less ambitious inhabitants, who are satisfied 
with the quiet possession of a country afford- 
ing, without risk or much trouble, every 
thing necessary to their comfort; for since 
traders have spread themselves over it, it is 
no more the rendezvous of the errant Knis- 
teneaux, part of whom used annually to return 
thither from the country of the Beaver 
River, which they had explored to its source 
in their war and hunting excursions, and as 
far as the Saskatchiwine, where they some- 
times met people of their own nation, who 
had prosecuted similar conquests up that 
river. In that country they found abundance 
of fish and animals, such as have been al- 
ready described, with the addition of the 
buffaloes, who range in the partial patches 
of meadow scattered along the rivers and 
lakes. From thence they returned in the 
spring to their friends whom they had left ; 
and, at the same time met with others who 
had penetrated with the same designs into 
the Athabasca country, which will be de- 
scribed hereafter. 

The spring was the period of this joyful 
meeting, when their time was occupied in 
feasting, dancing, and other pastimes, which 
cxxvii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

were occasionally suspended for sacrifice, and 
religious solemnity : wliile the narratives of 
their travels, and the history of their wai'S, 
amused and animated the festival. The time 
of rejoicing was but short, and was soon in- 
terrupted by the necessary preparations for 
their annual journey to Churchill, to exchange 
their furs for such European articles as were 
now become necessary to them. The short- 
ness of the seasons, and the great length of 
their way requiring the utmost despatch, the 
most active men of the tribe, with their 
youngest women, and a few of their children 
undertook the voyage, under the direction of 
some of their chiefs, following the waters al- 
ready described, to their discharge at Church- 
ill Factory, which are called, as has already 
been observed, the Missinipi, or Great Wa- 
ters. There they remained no longer than 
was sufficient to barter their commodities, 
with a supernumerary day or two to gratify 
themselves with the indulgence of spirituous 
liquors. At the same time the inconsider- 
able quantity they could purchase to carry 
away with them, for a regale with their 
friends, was held sacred, and reserved to 
heighten the enjoyment of their return home, 
when the amusements, festivity, and relig- 
ious solemnities of the spring were repeated. 
The usual time appropriated to these conviv- 
ialities being completed, they separated, to 
cxxviii 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

pursue their different objects; and if they 
were determined to go to war, they made the 
necessary arrangements for their future oper- 
ations. 

But we must now renew the progress of 
the route. It is not more than two miles 
from Isle a la Crosse Fort, to a point of land 
which forms a cheek of that part of the lake 
called the Kiviere Creuse, which preserves 
the breadth already mentioned for upwards 
of twenty miles; then contracts to about 
two, for the distance of ten miles more, when 
it opens to Lake Clear, which is very wide, 
and commands an open horizon, keeping the 
West shore for six miles. The whole of the 
distance mentioned is about North-West, 
when, by a narrow, crooked channel, turning 
to the South of West, the entry is made into 
Lake du Boeuf , which is contracted near the 
middle, by a projecting sandy point; inde- 
pendent of which it may be described as from 
six to twelve miles in breadth, thirty-six 
miles long, and in a North- West direction. 
At the North-West end, in latitude 56. 8. it 
receives the waters of the river la Loche, 
which, in the fall of the year, is very shal- 
low, and navigated with difficulty even by 
half-laden canoes. Its water is not sufficient 
to form strong rapids, though from its rocky 
bottom the canoes are frequently in consider- 
able danger. Including its meanders, the 
9 cxxix 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

course of this river may be computed at 
twenty-four miles, and receives its first wa- 
ters from the lake of the same name, which 
is about twenty miles long, and six wide; 
into which a small river flows, sufficient to 
bear loaded canoes, for about a mile and an 
half, where the navigation ceases; and the 
canoes, with their lading, are carried over 
the Portage la Loche for thirteen miles. 

This portage is the ridge that divides the 
waters which discharge themselves into Hud- 
son's Bay, from those that flow into the 
Northern ocean, and is in the latitude 56. 20. 
and longitude 109. 15. West. It runs South- 
West until it loses its local height between 
the Saskatchiwine and Elk Kivers; close on 
the bank of the former, in latitude 53. 36. 
North, and longitude 113. 45. West, it may 
be traced in an Easterly direction toward 
latitude 58. 12. North, and longitude 103^. 
West, when it appears to take its course due 
North, and may probably reach the Frozen 
Seas. 

From Lake le Souris, the banks of the riv- 
ers and lakes display a smaller portion of 
solid rock. The land is low and stony, in- 
termixed with a light, sandy soil, and clothed 
with wood. That of the Beaver River is of 
a more productive quality : but no part of it 
has ever been cultivated by the natives or 
Europeans, except a small garden at the Isle 
cxxx 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &q 

a la Crosse, which well repaid the labour be- 
stowed upon it. 

The Portage la Loche is of a level surface, 
in some parts abounding with stones, but in 
general it is an entire sand, and covered with 
the cypress, the pine, the spruce fir, and other 
trees natural to its soil. Within three miles 
of the North- West termination, there is a 
small round lake, whose diameter does not 
exceed a mile, and which affords a trifling 
respite to the labour of carrying. Within a 
mile of the termination of the Portage is a 
very steep precipice, whose ascent and de- 
scent appears to be equally impracticable in 
any way, as it consists of a succession of 
eight hills, some of which are almost perpen- 
dicular ; nevertheless, the Canadians contrive 
to surmount all these difficulties, even with 
their canoes and lading. 

This precipice, which rises upwards of a 
thousand feet above the plain beneath it, 
commands a most extensive, romantic, and 
ravishing prospect. From thence the eye 
looks down on the course of the little river, 
by some called the Swan river, and by oth- 
ers, the Clear- Water and Pelican river, beau- 
tifully meandering for upwards of thirty 
miles. The valley, which is at once refreshed 
and adorned by it, is about three miles in 
breadth, and is confined by two lofty ridges 
of equal height, displaying a most beautiful 
cxxxi 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

intermixture of wood and lawn, and stretch- 
ing on till the blue mist obscures the pros- 
pect. Some parts of the inclining heights 
are covered with stately forests, relieved by 
promontories of the finest verdure, where the 
elk and buffalo find pasture. These are con- 
trasted by spots where fire has destroyed the 
woods, and left a dreary void behind it. 
Nor, when I beheld this wonderful display of 
uncultivated nature, was the moving scenery 
of human occupation wanting to complete the 
picture. From this elevated situation, I be- 
held my people, diminished, as it were, to 
half their size, employed in pitching their 
tents in a charming meadow, and among the 
canoes, which, being turned upon their sides, 
presented their reddened bottoms in contrast 
with the surrounding verdure. At the same 
time, the process of gumming them produced 
numerous small spires of smoke, which, as 
they rose, enlivened the scene, and at length 
blended with the larger columns that ascended 
from the fires where the suppers were pre- 
paring. It was in the month of September 
when I enjoyed a scene, of which I do not 
presume to give an adequate description ; and 
as it was the rutting season of the elk, the 
whistling of that animal was heard m all the 
variety which the echoes could afford it. 

This river, wliich waters and reflects such 
enchanting scenery, runs, including its wind- 
cxxxii 



OF THE FUR TRADE. &c. 

ings, upwards of eighty miles, when it dis- 
charges itself in the Elk River, according to 
the denomination of the natives, but com- 
monly called by the white people, the Atha- 
basca Eiver, in latitude 56. 42. North. 

At a small distance from Portage la Loche, 
several carrying-places interrupt the naviga- 
tion of the river ; about the middle of which 
are some mineral springs, whose margins are 
covered with sulphureous incrustations. At 
the junction or fork, the Elk River is about 
three quarters of a mile in breadth, and runs 
in a steady current, sometimes contracting, 
but never increasing its channel, till, after 
receiving several small streams, it discharges 
itself into the Lake of the Hills, in latitude 
58. 36. North. At about twenty-four miles 
from the Fork, are some bituminous foun- 
tains, into which a pole of twenty feet long 
may be inserted without the least resistance. 
The bitumen is in a fluid state, and when 
mixed with gum, or the resinous substance 
collected from the spruce fir, serves to gum 
the canoes. In its heated state it emits a 
smell like that of sea-coal. The banks of the 
river, which are there very elevated, discover 
veins of the same bituminous quality. At a 
small distance from the Fork, houses have 
been erected for the convenience of trading 
with a party of the Knisteneaux, who visit the 
adjacent country for the purpose of hunting, 
cxxxiii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

At the distance of about forty miles from the 
lake, is the Old Establishment, which has 
been already mentioned, as formed by Mr. 
Pond in the year 1778-9, and which was the 
only one in this part of the world, till the 
year 1785. In the year 1788 it was trans- 
ferred to the Lake of the Hills, and formed 
on a point on its Southern side, at about 
eight miles from the discharge of the river. 
It was named Fort Chepewyan, and is in lat- 
itude 58. 38. North, longitude 110. 26. West, 
and much better situated for trade and fish- 
ing as the people here have recourse to water 
for their support. 

This being the place which I made my 
headquarters for eight years, and from whence 
I took my departure, on both my expeditions, 
I shall give some account of it, with the man- 
ner of carrying on the trade there, and other 
circumstances connected with it. 

The laden canoes which leave Lake la Pluie 
about the first of August, do not arrive here 
till the latter end of September, or the begin- 
ning of October, when a necessary propor- 
tion of them is despatched up the Peace River 
to trade with the Beaver and Rocky-Moun- 
tain Indians. Others are sent to the Slave 
River and Lake, or beyond them, and traffic 
with the inhabitants of that country. A 
small part of them, if not left at the Fork of 
the Elk River, return thither for the Kniste- 
cxxxiv 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

neaux, while the rest of the people and mer* 
chandise remain here, to carry on trade with 
the Chepewyans. 

Here have I arrived with ninety or an hun« 
dred men without any provision for their sus- 
tenance; for whatever quantity might have 
been obtained from the natives during the 
summer, it could not be more than sufficient 
for the people despatched to their different 
posts ; and even if there were a casual super- 
fluity, it was absolutely necessary to preserve 
it untouched, for the demands of the spring. 
The whole dependence, therefore, of those 
who remained, was on the lake, and fishing 
implements for the means of our support. 
The nets are sixty fathom in length, when 
set, and contain fifteen meshes of five inches 
in depth. The manner of using them is as 
follows : A small stone and wooden buoy are 
fastened to the side-line opposite to each 
other, at about the distance of two fathoms ; 
when the net is carefully thrown into the 
water, the stone sinks it to the bottom, while 
the buoy keeps it at its full extent, and it is 
secured in its situation by a stone at either 
end. The nets are visited every day, and 
taken out every other day to be cleaned and 
dried. This is a very ready operation when 
the waters are not frozen, but when the frost 
bas set in, and the ice has acquired its great- 
est thickness, which is sometimes as much as 
cxxxv 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

five feet, holes are cut in it at the distance 
of thirty feet from each other, to the full 
length of the net ; one of them is larger than 
the rest, being generally about four feet 
square, and is called the basin : by means of 
them, and poles of a proportionable length, 
the nets are placed in and drawn out of the 
water. Tlie setting of hooks and lines is so 
simple an employment as to render a descrip- 
tion unnecessary. The white fish are the 
principal object of pursuit: they spawn in 
the fall of the year, and, at about the setting 
in of the hard frost, crowd in shoals to the 
shallow water, when as many as possible are 
taken, in order that a portion of them may 
be laid by in the frost to provide against the 
scarcity of winter; as, during that season, 
the fish of every description decrease in the 
lakes, if they do not altogether disappear. 
Some have supposed that during this period 
they are stationary, or assume an inactive 
state. If there should be any intervals of 
warm weather during the fall, it is necessary 
to suspend the fish by the tail, though they 
are not so good as those which are altogether 
preserved by the frost. In this state they 
remain to the beginning of April, when they 
have been found as sweet as when they were 
caught.* 

* This fishery requires the most unremitting atten- 
tion, as the voyaging Canadians are equally indo- 
cxxxvi 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

Thus do these voyagers live, year after 
year, entirely upon fish, without even the 
quickening flavour of salt, or the variety of 
any farinaceous root or vegetable. Salt, 
however, if their habits had not rendered it 
unnecessary, might be obtained in this coun- 
try to the Westward of the Peace River, 
where it loses its name in that of the Slave 
Eiver, from the numerous salt-ponds and 
springs to be found there, which will supply 
in any quantity, in a state of concretion, and 
perfectly white and clean. When the Indi- 
ans pass that way they bring a small quantity 
to the fort, with other articles of traffic. 

During a short period of the spring and fall, 
great numbers of wild fowl frequent this 
country, which prove a very gratifying food 
after such a long privation of flesh-meat. It 
is remarkable, however, that the Canadians 
who frequent the Peace, Saskatchiwine, and 
Assiniboin rivers, and live altogether on ven- 
ison, have a less healthy appearance than 
those whose sustenance is obtained from the 
waters. At the same time the scurvy is 
wholly unknown among them. 

In the fall of the year the natives meet the 
traders at the forts, where they barter the 
furs or provisions which they may have pro- 
lent, extravagant, and improvident, when left to 
themselves, and rival the savages in a neglect of the 
morrow. 

cxxxvii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

cured : they tlien obtain credit, and proceed 
to hunt the beavers, and do not return till the 
beginning of the year ; when they are again 
fitted out in the same manner and come back 
the latter end of March, or the beginning of 
April. They are now unwilling to repair to 
the beaver hunt until the waters are clear of 
ice, that they may kill them with fire-arms, 
which the Chepewyans are averse to employ. 
The major part of the latter return to the 
barren grounds, and live during the summer 
with their relations and friends in the en- 
joyment of that plenty which is derived from 
numerous herds of deer. But those of that 
tribe who are most partial to these deserts, 
cannot remain there in winter, and they are 
obliged, with the deer, to take shelter in the 
woods during that rigorous season, when they 
contrive to kill a few beavers, and send them 
by young men, to exchange for iron utensils 
and ammunition. 

Till the year 1782, the people of Athabasca 
sent or carried their furs regularly to Fort 
Churchill, Hudson's Bay; and some of them 
have, since that time, repaired thither, not- 
withstanding they could have provided them- 
selves with all the necessaries which they re- 
quired. The difference of the price set on 
goods here and at the factory, made it an ob- 
ject with the Chepewyans to undertake a 
journey of five or six months, in the course 
cxxxviii 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c, 

of which they were reduced to the most 
painful extremities, and often lost their lives 
from hunger and fatigue. At present, how- 
ever, this traffic is in a great measure discon- 
tinued, as they were obliged to expend in the 
course of their journey, that very ammuni- 
tion which was its most alluring object. 



CXXXIX 



A GENERAL HISTORY 



1 



SOME ACCOUNT OF THE KNISTE- 
NEAUX INDIANS. 

These people are spread over a vast extent 
of country. Their language is the same as 
that of the people who inhabit the coast of 
British America on the Atlantic, with the ex- 
ception of the Esquimaux,* and continues 
along the coast of Labrador, and the gulf and 
banks of St. Laurence to Montreal. The 
line then follows the Utawas river to its 
source; and continues from thence nearly- 
West along the highlands which divides the 
waters that fall into Lake Superior and Hud- 
son's Bay. It then proceeds till it strikes 
the middle part of the river Winipic, follow- 
ing that water to the Lake Winipic, to the 
discharge of the Saskatchiwine into it ; from 
thence it accompanies the latter to Fort 
George, when the line, striking by the head 
of the Beaver river to the Elk river, runs 
along its banks to its discharge in the Lake 
of the Hills ; from which it may be carried 

* The similarity between their language and that 
of the Algonquins is an unequivocal proof that they 
are the same people. Specimens of their respective 
tongues will be hereafter given. 
cxl 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

back East, to the Isle a la Crosse, and so on 
to Churchill by the Missinipi. The whole of 
the tract between this line and Hudson's Bay 
and Straits (except that of the Esquimaux in 
the latter), may be said to be exclusively the 
country of the Knisteneaux. Some of them 
indeed, have penetrated further West and 
South to the Red River, to the South of Lake 
Winipic, and the South branch of the Sas- 
katchiwme . 

They are of a moderate stature, well pro- 
portioned, and of great activity. Examples 
of deformity are seldom to be seen among 
them. Their complexion is of a copper col- 
our, and their hair black, which is common to 
all the natives of North America. It is cat 
in various forms, according to the fancy of 
the several tribes, and by some is left in the 
long, lank, flow of nature. They very gen- 
erally extract their beards, and both sexes 
manifest a disposition to pluck the hair from 
every part of their body and limbs. Their 
eyes are black, keen, and penetrating; their 
countenance open and agreeable, and it is a 
principal object of their vanity to give every 
possible decoration to their persons. A ma- 
terial article in their toilets is vermilion, 
which they contrast with their native blue, 
white, and brown earths, to which charcoal 
is frequently added. 

Their dress is at once simple and commo- 
cxli 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

dious. It consists of tight leggins, reaching- 
near the hip : a strip of cloth or leather, called 
assian, about a foot wide, and five feet long, 
whose ends are drawn inwards and hang be- 
hind and before, over a belt tied round the 
waist for that purpose : a close vest or shirt 
reaching down to the former garment, and 
cinctured with a broad strip of parchment 
fastened with thongs behind ; and a cap for 
the head, consisting of a piece of fur, or 
small skin, with the brush of the animal as a 
suspended ornament : a kind of robe is thrown 
occasionally over the whole of the dress, and 
serves both night and day. These articles, 
with the addition of shoes and mittens, con- 
stitute the variety of their apparel. The 
materials vary according to the season, and 
consist of dressed moose-skin, beaver pre- 
pared with the fur, or European woollens. 
The leather is neatly painted, and fancifully 
worked in some parts with porcupine quills, 
and moose-deer hair : the shirts and leggins 
are also adorned with fringe and tassels; nor 
are the shoes and mittens without somewhat 
of appropriate decoration, and worked with a 
considerable degree of skill and taste. These 
habiliments are put on, however, as fancy or 
convenience suggests; and they will some- 
times proceed to the chase in the severest 
frost, covered only with the slightest of 
them. 

cxlii 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

Their head-dresses are composed of the 
feathers of the swan, the eagle, and other 
birds. The teeth, horns, and claws of differ- 
ent animals, are also the occasional ornaments 
of the head and neck. Their hair, however 
arranged, is always besmeared with grease. 
The making of every article of dress is a fe- 
male occupation; and the women, though by 
no means inattentive to the decoration of 
their own persons, appear to have a still 
greater degree of pride in attending to the 
appearance of the men, whose faces are 
painted with more care than those of the 
women. 

The female dress is formed of the same 
materials as those of the other sex, but of a 
different make and arrangement. Their shoes 
are commonly plain, and their leggins gar- 
tered beneath the knee. The coat, or body 
covering, falls down to the middle of the leg, 
and is fastened over the shoulders with cords, 
a flap or cape turning down about eight 
inches, both before and behind, and agreeably 
ornamented with quill-work and fringe ; the 
bottom is also fringed, and fancifully painted 
as high as the knee. As it is very loose, it 
is enclosed round the waist with a stiff belt, 
decorated with tassels, and fastened behind. 
The arms are covered to the wrist, with de- 
tached sleeves, which are sewed as far as the 
bend of the arm ; from thence they are drawn 
cxliii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

up to the neck, and the corners of them fall 
down behind, as low as the waist. The cap, 
when they wear one, consists of a certain 
quantity of leather or cloth, sewed at one 
end, by which means it is kept on the head, 
and, hanging down the back, is fastened to 
the belt, as well as under the chin. The 
upper garment is a robe like that worn by the 
men. Their hair is divided on the crown, 
and tied behind, or sometimes fastened in 
large knots over the ears. They are fond of 
European articles, and prefer them to their 
own native commodities. Their ornaments 
consist in common with all savages, in brace- 
lets, rings, and similar baubles. Some of the 
women tattoo three perpendicular lines, which 
are sometimes double : one from the centre of 
the chin to that of the under lip, and one 
parallel on either side to the corner of the 
mouth. 

Of all the nations which I have seen on this 
continent, the Knisteneaux women are the 
most comely. Their figure is generally well 
proportioned, and the regularity of their feat- 
ures would be acknowledged by the more civ- 
ilised people of Europe. Their complexion 
has less of that dark tinge which is com- 
mon to those savages who have less cleanly 
habits. 

These people are, in general, subject to few 
disorders. The lues venera, however, is a 
cxliv 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

common complaint, but cured by the applica- 
tion of simples, with whose virtues they ap- 
pear to be well acquainted. They are also 
subject to fluxes, and pains in the breast, 
which some have attributed to the very keen 
and cold air which they inhale ; but I should 
imagine that these complaints must fre- 
quently proceed from their immoderate in- 
dulgence in fat meat at their feasts, particu- 
larly when they have been preceded by long 
fasting. 

They are naturally mild and affable, as well 
as just in their dealings, not only among them- 
selves, but with strangers.* They are also 
generous and hospitable, and good-natured 
in the extreme, except when their nature is 
perverted by the inflammatory influence of 
spirituous liquors. To their children they 
are indulgent to a fault. The father, though 
he assumes no command over them, is ever 
anxious to instruct them in all the preparatory 
qualifications for war and hunting ; while the 
mother is equally attentive to her daughters 
in teaching them every thing that is consid- 
ered as necessary to their character and situ- 
ation. It does not appear that the husband 
makes any distinction between the children 

*They have been called thieves, but when that 
vice can with justice be attributed to them, it may 
be traced to their connexion with the civilised peo- 
ple who come into their country to traffic, 
lo cxlv 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

of his wife, though they may be the offspring 
of different fathers. Illegitimacy is only at- 
tached to those who are born before their 
mothers have cohabited with any man by the 
title of husband. 

It does not appear, that chastity is consid- 
ered by them as a virtue ; or that fidelity is 
believed to be essential to the happiness of 
wedded life. Though it sometimes happens 
that the infidelity of a wife is punished by 
the husband with the loss of her hair, nose, 
and perhaps life ; such severity proceeds from 
its having been practised without his permis- 
sion : for a temporary interchange of wives is 
not uncommon : and the offer of their persons 
is considered as a necessary part of the hos- 
pitality due to strangers. 

When a man loses his wife, it is considered 
as a duty to marry her sister, if she has one ; 
or he may, if he pleases, have them both at 
the same time. 

It will appear from the fatal consequences 
I have repeatedly imputed to the use of spir- 
ituous liquors that I more particularly con- 
sider these people as having been, morally 
speaking, great sufferers from their communi- 
cation with the subjects of civilised nations. 
At the same time they were not, in a state of 
nature, without their vices, and some of them 
of a kind which is the most abhorrent to cul- 
tivated and reflecting man. I shall only ob- 
cxlvi 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

serve, that incest and bestiality are among 
them. 

When a young man marries, he immediately 
goes to live with the father and mother of his 
wife, who treat him, nevertheless, as a per- 
fect stranger, till after the birth of his first 
child : he then attaches himself more to them 
than his own parents ; and his wife no longer 
gives him any other denomination than that 
of the father of her child. 

The profession of the men is war and hunt- 
ing, and the more active scene of their duty 
is the field of battle, and the chase in the 
woods. They also spear fish, but the man- 
agement of the nets is left to the women. 
The females of this nation are in the same 
subordinate state with those of all other sav- 
age tribes, but the severity of their labour is 
much diminished by their situation on the 
banks of lakes and rivers, where they employ 
canoes. In the winter, when the waters are 
frozen, they make their journeys, which are 
never of any great length, with sledges drawn 
by dogs. They are, at the same time, sub- 
ject to every kind of domestic drudgery ; they 
dress the leather, make the clothes and shoes, 
weave the nets, collect wood, erect the tents, 
fetch water, and perform every culinary ser- 
vice ; so that when the duties of maternal care 
are added, it will appear, that the life of 
these women is an uninterrupted succession 
cxlvii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

of toil and pain. This, indeed, is the sense 
they entertain of their own situation; and 
under the influence of that sentiment, they 
are sometimes known to destroy their fe- 
male children, to save them from the miserief 
which they themselves have suffered. They 
also have a ready way, by the use of certain 
simples, of procuring abortions, which they 
sometimes practise, from their hatred of the 
father, or to save themselves the trouble 
which children occasion : and, as I have been 
credibly informed, this unnatural act is re- 
peated without any injury to the health of 
the women who perpetrate it. 

The funeral rites begin, like all other sol- 
emn ceremonials, with smoking, and are con- 
cluded by a feast. The body is dressed in 
the best habiliments possessed by the de- 
ceased, or his relations, and is then deposited 
in a grave lined with branches ; some domestic 
utensils are place on it, and a kind of canopy 
erected over it. During this ceremony, great 
lamentations are made, and if the departed 
person is very much regretted, the near re- 
lations cut off their hair, pierce the fleshy 
part of their thighs and arms with arrows, 
knives, etc , and blacken their faces with 
charcoal If they have distinguished them- 
selves in war, they are sometimes laid on a 
kind of scaffolding; and I have been in- 
formed, that women, as in the East, have 
cxlviii 



I 



OF THE FUR TRADE. &c. 

been known to sacrifice themselves to the 
manes of their husbands. The whole of the 
property belonging to the departed person is 
destroyed, and the relations take in exchange 
for the wearing apparel, any rags that will 
cover their nakedness. The feast bestowed 
on the occasion, which is, or at least used to 
be, repeated annually, is accompanied with 
eulogiums on the deceased, and without any 
acts of ferocity. On the tomb are carved or 
painted the symbols of his tribe, which are 
taken from the different animals of the coun- 
try. 

Many and various are the motives which in- 
duce a savage to engage in war. To prove 
his courage, or to revenge the death of his 
relations, or some of his tribe, by the mas- 
sacre of an enemy. If the tribe feel them- 
selves called upon to go to war, the elders 
convene the people, in order to know the gen- 
eral opinion. If it be for war, the chief pub- 
lishes his intention to smoke in the sacred 
stem at a certain period, to which solemnity, 
meditation and fasting are required as pre- 
paratory ceremonials. When the people are 
thus assembled, and the meeting sanctified by 
the custom of smoking, the chief enlarges on 
the causes which have called them together, 
and the necessity of the measures proposed 
on the occasion. He then invites those who 
are willing to follow him, to smoke out of the 
cxlix 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

sacred stem, which is considered as the token 
of enrolment; and if it should be the genei-al 
opinion that assistance is necessary, others 
are invited, with great formality, to join 
them. Every individual who attends these 
meetings, brings something with him as a 
token of his warlike intention, or as an object 
of sacrifice, which, when the assembly dis- 
solves, is suspended from poles near the place 
of council. 

They have frequent feasts, and particular 
circumstances never fail to produce them, 
such as a tedious illness, long fasting, etc. 
On these occasions it is usual for the person 
who means to give the entertainment, to an- 
nounce his design, on a certain day, of open- 
ing the medicine-bag, and smoking out of 
his sacred stem. This declaration is consid- 
ered as a sacred vow that cannot be broken. 
There are also stated periods, such as the 
spring and autumn, when they engage in very 
long and solemn ceremonies. On these occa- 
sions dogs are offered as sacrifices, and those 
which are very fat, and milk-white, are pre- 
ferred. They also make large offerings of 
their property, whatever it may be. The 
scene of these ceremonies is in an open in- 
closure on the bank of a river or lake, and in 
the most conspicuous situation, in order that 
such as are passing along or travelling, may 
be induced to make their offerings. There is 
cl 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

also a particular custom among them, that, 
on these occasions, if any of the tribe, or 
even a stranger, should be passing by, and 
be in real want of any thing that is displayed 
as an offering, he has a right to take it, so 
that he replaces it with some article he can 
spare, though it be of far inferior value ; but 
to take or touch any thing wantonly is con- 
sidered as a sacrilegious act, and highly in- 
sulting to the great Master of Life, to use 
their own expression, who is the sacred ob- 
ject of their devotion. 

The scene of private sacrifice is the lodge 
of the person who performs it, which is pre- 
pared for that purpose, by removing every 
thing out of it, and spreading green branches 
in every part. The fire and ashes are also 
taken away. A new hearth is made of fresh 
earth, and another fire is lighted. The own- 
er of the dwelling remains alone in it ; and 
he begins the ceremony by spreading a piece 
of new cloth, or a well-dressed moose-skin 
neatly painted, on which he opens his medi- 
cine-bag and exposes its contents, consisting 
of various articles. The principal of them 
is a kind of household god, which is a small 
carved image about eight inches long. Its 
first covering is of down, over which a piece 
of birch-bark is closely tied, and the whole is 
enveloped in several folds of red and blue 
cloth. This little figure is an object of the 
cli 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

most pious regard. The next article is his 
war-cap, which is decorated with the feathers 
and plumes of scarce birds, beavers, and 
eagle's claws, etc. There is also suspended 
from it a quill or feather for every enemy 
whom the owner of it has slain in battle. 
The remaining contents of the bag are, a 
piece of Brazil tobacco, several roots and sim- 
ples, which are in great estimation for their 
medicinal qualities, and a pipe. These arti- 
cles being all exposed, and the stem resting 
upon two forks, as it must not touch the 
ground, the master of the lodge sends for the 
person he most esteems, who sits down oppo- 
site to him ; the pipe is then filled and fixed 
to the stem. A pair of wooden pincers is 
provided to put the fire in the pipe, and a 
double-pointed pin, to empty it of the rem- 
nant of tobacco which is not consumed. This 
arrangement being made, the men assemble, 
and sometimes the women are allowed to be 
humble spectators, while the most religous 
awe and solemnity pervades the whole. The 
Michiniwais, or Assistant, takes up the pipe, 
lights it, and presents it to the officiating 
person, who receives it standing and holds it 
between both his hands. He then turns him- 
self to the East, and draws a few whiffs, 
which he blows to that point. The same cere- 
mony he observes to the other three quarters, 
with his eyes directed upwards during the 
clii 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

whole of it. He holds the stem about the 
middle between the three first fingers of both 
hands, and raising them upon a line with his 
forehead, he swings it three times round 
from the East, with the sun, when, after 
pointing and balancing it in various direc- 
tions, he reposes it on the forks : he then 
makes a speech to explain the design of their 
being called together, which concludes with 
an acknowledgment for past mercies, and a 
prayer for the continuance of them, from the 
Master of Life. He then sits down, and the 
whole company declare their approbation and 
thanks by uttering the word ho ! with an em- 
phatic prolongation of the last letter. The 
Michiniwais then takes up the pipe and holds 
it to the mouth of the officiating person, who, 
after smoking three whiffs out of it, utters a 
short prayer, and then goes round with it, 
taking his course from East to West, to every 
person present, who individually says some- 
thing to him on the occasion ; and thus the 
pipe is generally smoked out; when, after 
turning it three or four times round his head, 
he drops it downwards, and replaces it in its 
original situation. He then returns the com- 
pany thanks for their attendance, and wishes 
them, as well as the whole tribe, health and 
long life. 

These smoking rites precede every matter 
of great importance, with more or less cere- 
cliii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

mony, but always with equal solemnity. The 
utility of them will appear from the follow- 
ing relation. 

If a chief is anxious to know the disposi- 
tion of his people towards him, or if he 
wishes to settle any difference between them, 
he announces his intention of opening his 
medicine-bag and smoking in his sacred stem ; 
and no man who entertains a grudge against 
any of the party thus assembled can smoke 
with the sacred stem ; as that ceremony dis- 
sipates all differences, and is never violated. 

No one can avoid attending on these occa- 
sions ; but a person may attend and be ex- 
cused from assisting at the ceremonies, by 
acknowledging that he has not undergone the 
necessary purification. The having cohabited 
with his wife, or any other woman, within 
twenty-four hours preceding the ceremony, 
renders him unclean, and, consequently, dis- 
qualifies him from performing any part of it. 
If a contract is entered into and solemnised 
by the ceremony of smoking, it never fails of 
being faithfully fulfilled. If a person, pre- 
vious to his going a journey, leaves the sacred 
stem as a pledge of his return, no considera- 
tion whatever will prevent him from execut- 
ing his engagement.* 

* It is, however, to be lamented, that of late there 
is a relaxation of the duties originally attached to 
these festivals. 

cliv 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

The chief, when he proposes to make a 
feast, sends quills, or small pieces of wood, 
as tokens of invitation to such as he wishes 
to partake of it. At the appointed time the 
guests arrive, each bringing a dish or platter, 
and a knife, and take their seats on each side 
of the chief, who receives them sitting, ac- 
cording to their respective ages. The pipe is 
then lighted, and he makes an equal division 
of every thing that is provided. While the 
company are enjoying their meal, the chief 
sings, and accompanies his song with the 
tambourine, or shishiquoi, or rattle. The 
guest who has first eaten his portion is con- 
sidered as the most distinguished person. If 
there should be any who cannot finish the 
whole of their mess, they endeavour to pre- 
vail on some of their friends to eat it for 
them, who are rewarded for their assistance 
with ammunition and tobacco. It is proper 
also to remark, that at these feasts a small 
quantity of meat or drink is sacrificed, before 
they begin to eat, by throwing it into the 
fire, or on the earth. 

These feasts differ according to circum- 
stances; sometimes each man's allowance is 
no more than he can despatch in a couple of 
hours. At other times the quantity is suffi- 
cient to supply each of them with food for a 
week, though it must be devoured in a day. 
On these occasions it is very difficult to pro- 
civ 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

cure substitutes, and the whole must be eaten 
whatever time it may require. At some of 
these entertainments there is a more rational 
arrangement, when the guests are allowed to 
carry home with them the superfluous part 
of their portions. Great care is always taken 
that the bones may be burned, as it would be 
considered a profanation were the dogs per- 
mitted to touch them. 

The public feasts are conducted in the same 
manner, but with some additional ceremony. 
Several chiefs officiate at them, and procure 
the necessary provisions, as well as prepare a 
proper place of reception for the numerous 
company. Here the guests discourse upon 
public topics, repeat the heroic deeds of their 
forefathers, and excite the rising generation 
to follow their example. The entertainments 
on these occasions consist of dried meats, as 
it would not be practicable to dress a suffi- 
cient quantity of fresh meat for such a large 
assembly; though the women and children 
are excluded. 

Similar feasts used to be made at funerals, 
and annually, in honour of the dead; but 
they have been, for some time, growing into 
disuse, and I never had an opportunity of 
being present at any of them. 

The women, who are forbidden to enter the 
places sacred to these festivals, dance and 
sing around them, and sometimes beat time 
clvi 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

to the music within them ; which forms an 
agreeable contrast. 

With respect to their divisions of time, 
they compute the length of their journeys by 
the number of nights passed in performing 
them ; and they divide the year by the suc- 
cession of moons. In this calculation, how- 
ever, they are not altogether correct, as they 
cannot account for the odd days. 

The names which they give to the names 
are descriptive of the several seasons. 



May 


Atheiky o Pishim 


Frog Moon. 


June 


Oppinu o Pishim 


The Moon in which 
birds begin to lay 
their eggs. 


July 


Aupascen Pishim The Moon when 






birds east their 






feathers. 


August 


Aupahouo Pishim 


The Moon when 
the young birds 
begin to fly. 


September 


Waskiscon o 


The Moon when 




Pishim 


the moose deer 
cast their horns. 


October 


Wisac Pishim 


The Rutting-Moon. 


November 


Thithigon Pewai 
Pishim 


Hoar-Frost Moon. 




Kuskatinayoui o 


Ice Moon. 




Pishim 




December 


Pawatchicanana- 
sis Pishim 


Whirl wind -Moon. 


January 


Kushapawastica- 


Extreme cold 




num Pishim 


Moon. 




civil 





A GENERAL HISTORY 

February Kichi Pishim Big Moon ; some 

say, Old Moon. 
March Mickysue Pishim Eagle Moon. 

April Niscaw o Pishim Goose Moon, 

These people know the medicinal virtues of 
many herbs and simples, and apply the roots 
of plants and the bark of trees with success. 
But the conjurers, who monopolise the med- 
ical science, find it necessary to blend mys- 
tery with their art, and do not communicate 
their knowledge. Their materia medica they 
administer in the form of purges and clysters, 
but the remedies and surgical operations are 
supposed to derive much of their effect from 
magic and incantation. When a blister rises 
in the foot from the frost, the chafing of the 
shoe, etc., they immediately open it, and 
apply the heated blade of a knife to the part, 
which, painful as it may be, is found to be 
efficacious. A sharp flint serves them as a 
lancet for letting blood, as well as for scari- 
fication in bruises and swellings. For sprains, 
the dung of an animal just killed is consid- 
ered as the best remedy. They are very fond 
of European medicines, though they are ig- 
noranbof their application : and those articles 
form an inconsiderable part of the European 
traffic with them. 

Among their various superstitions, they 
believe that the vapour which is seen to hover 
over moist and swampy places, is the spirit 
clviii 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

of some person lately dead. They also fancy 
another spirit which appears, in the shape of 
a man, upon the trees near the lodge of a 
person deceased, whose property has not been 
interred with them. He is represented as 
bearing a gun in his hand, and it is believed 
that he does not return to his rest, till the 
property that has been withheld from the 
grave has been sacrificed to it. 



Examples op the Knisteneaux and Algonquin 
Tongues. 





Knisteneaux, 


Algonquin. 


Good Spirit 


Ki jai Manitou 


Ki jai Manitou. 


Evil Spirit 


Matclii manitou 


Match! manitou 


Man 


Ethini 


Inini 


Woman 


Esquois 


Ich-quois. 


Male 


Nap hew 


Aquoisi. 


Female 


Non-gense 


Non-gense. 


Infant 


A' wash ish 


Abi nont-chen. 


Head 


Us ti quoin 


O'chiti-goine. 


Forehead 


Es caatick 


catick. 


Hair 


Wes ty-ky 


Winessis. 


Eyes 


Es kis och 


Oskingick. 


Nose 


Oskiwin 


O'chengewane. 


Nostrils 


Oo tith ee go Ni-de-ni-guom, 




mow 




Mouth 


toune 


tonne. 


My teeth 


Wip pit tall 


Nibit. 


Tongue 


Otaithani 


0-tai na-ni. 


Beard 


Michitoune 


Omichitonn. 


Brain 


With i tip 


Aba-e winikan. 


Ears 


tow ee gie 


0-ta wagane. 


Neck 


qui ow 

clix 


O'quoi gan. 



A GENERAL HISTORY 



Throat 

Arms 

Fingers 

Nails 

Side 

My back 

My belly 

Thighs 

My knees 

Legs 

Heart 

My father 

My mother 

My boy (son) 

My girl (daugh- 
ter) 

My brother, 
elder 

My sister, elder 

My grandfather 

My grandmother 

My uncle 

My nephew 

My niece 

My mother - in- 
law 

My brother - in- 
law 

My companion 

My husband 
Blood 
Old Man 
I am angry 
I fear 



Knisteneaux. 
O koot tas gy 
O nisk 
Che chee 
Wos kos sia 
O's spig gy 
No pis quan 
Nattay 
O povam 
No die quoin noh 
Nos 

Ok thea 
Noo ta wie 
Nigah wei 
Negousis 
Netanis 

Ni stess 

Ne miss 
Ne moo shum 
N'o kum 
N' o'kamiss 
Ne too sira 



Algonquin. 
Nigon dagane 
O nic. 

Ni nid gines. 
Os-kenge. 
Opikegan. 
Ni-pi quoini. 
Ni my sat. 
Obouame. 
Ni gui tick. 
Ni gatte. 
Othal 
Nossai. 
Nigah. 
Nigouisses. 
Nidaniss. 

Nis-a-yen. 

Nimisain. 

Ni-miH3homiss. 

No-co-miss. 

Ni ni michomen. 

Ne do jim. 



Ne too sim es- Ni-do-jira equois 

quois 
Nisigouse Ni sigousiss. 



Nistah 



Nitah. 



Ne wechi wagan Ni wit - chi wa 

gan. 
Ni nap pern Ni na bem. 

Mith coo Misquoi. 

Shi nap Aki win se. 

Nekis si wash en Nis Katissiwine. 
Ne goos tow Nisest guse. 
clx 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 



Joy 


Ne hea tha torn 


Mamond gikisi. 


Hearing 


Pethom 


Oda wagan. 


Track 


Mis conna 


Pemi ka wois. 


Chief, grea 


,t Haukimah 


Kitchi onodis. 


ruler 






Thief 


Kismouthesk 


Ke moutiske. 


Excrement 


Meyee 


Moui. 


Buffalo 


Moustouche 


Pichike. 


Ferret 


Sigous 


Shingouss. 


Polecat 


Shicak 


Shi kak. 


Elk 


Moustouche 


Michai woi. 


Rein deer 


Attick 


Atick. 


Fallow deer 


Attick 


Wa wasquesh. 


Beaver 


Amisk 


Amic. 


Wolverine 


Qui qua katch 


Quin quoagki. 


Squirrel 


Ennequachas 


Otchi ta mou. 


Minx 


Sa quasue 


Shaugouch. 


Otter 


Nekick 


Ni guick. 


Wolf 


Mayegan 


Maygan. 


Hare 


Wapouce 


Wapouce. 


Marten 


Wappistan 


Wabichinse. 


Moose 


Mouswah 


Mouse. 


Bear 


Masqua 


Macqua. 


Fisher 


Wijask 


Od-jisck. 


Lynx 


Picheu 


Pechou. 


Porcupine 


Cau quah 


Kack. 


Fox 


Mikasew 


Wagouche. 


Musk Rat 


Wajask 


Wa-jack. 


Mouse 


Abicushiss 


Wai wa be gou 
noge. 


Cow Buffalo 


Noshi Mous 
touche 


, - Nochena pichik. 


Meat-flesh 


Wias 


Wi-ass. 


Dog 


Atim 


Ani-mouse. 


Eagle 


Makusue 


Me-guissis. 


Duck 


Sy Sip 


Shi-sip. 


11 


clxi 





A GENERAL HISTORY 





Knisteneaux. 


Algonquin. 


Crow, Corbeau 


Ca Cawkeu 


Ka Kak. 


Swan 


Wapiseu 


Wa-pe-sy. 


Turkey 


Mes sei thew 


Mississay. 


Pheasants 


Okes kew 


Ajack. 


Bird 


Pethesew 


Pi-na-sy. 


Outard 


Niscag 


Nic kack. 


White Goose 


Wey Wois 


Woi wois. 


Grey Goose 


Pestasish 


Pos ta kisk. 


Partridge 


Pithew 


Pen ainse. 


Water Hen 


Chiquibish 


Che qui bis. 


Dove 


Omi Mee 


mi-mis. 


Eggs 


Wa Wah 


Wa Weni. 


Pike or Jack 


Kenonge 


Kenonge. 


Carp 


Na may bin 


Na me bine. 


Sturgeon 


Na May 


Na Maiu. 


White fish 


Aticaming 


Aticaming. 


Pickerel 


Oc-chaw 


Oh-ga. 


Fish (in general) 


Kenonge 


Ki-cons. 


Spawn 


Waquon 


AVa quock. 


Fins 


Chi chi kan 


O nidj-igan. 


Trout 


Nay gouse 


Na Men Gouse. 


Craw Fish 


A shag gee 


A cha kens chac 
que. 


Frog 


Athick 


O ma ka ki. 


Wasp 


Ah moo 


A mon. 


Turtle 


Mikinack 


Mi-ki-nack. 


Snake 


Kinibick 


Ki nai bick. 


Awl 


Oscajick 


Ma-gose. 


Needle 


Saboinigan 


Sha-bo nigan. 


Fire steel 


Appet 


Scoutecgan. 


Fire wood 


Mich-tah 


Missane. 


Cradle 


Teckinigan 


Tickina-gan. 


Dagger 


Ta Comagau 


Na-ba-ke-gou- 
man. 


Arrow 


Augusk or Atou 
che 
clxii 


- Mettickanouins. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 





Knisteneaux. 


Algonquin. 


Fish Hook 


Quosquipichican Maneton Miquis 






can. 


Ax 


Shegaygan 


Wagagvette. 


Ear-bob 


Chi-kisebisoun 


Na be chi be 
soun. 


Comb 


Sicahoun 


Pin ack wan. 


Net 


Athabe 


Assap. 


Tree 


Mistick 


Miti-coum. 


Wood 


Mistick 


Mitic. 


Paddle 


Aboi 


Aboui. 


Canoe 


Chiman 


S-chiman. 


Birch Rind 


Wasquoi 


Wig nass. 


Bark 


Wasquoi 


On-na-guege. 


Touch Wood 


Pousagan 


Sa-ga-tagan. 


Leaf 


Nepeshah 


Ni-biche. 


Grass 


Masquosi 


Masquosi. 


Raspberries 


Misqui-meinac 


Misqui meinac. 


Strawberries 


O'-tai-e minac 


O'-tai-e minac. 


Ashes 


Pecouch 


Pengoui, 


Fire 


Scou tay 


Scou tay. 


Grapes 


Shomenac 


Shomenac. 


Fog 


Pakishihow 


A Winni, 


Mud 


Asus ki 


A Shiski. 


Currant 


Kisijiwin 


Ki si chi woin. 


Road 


Mescanah 


Mickanan. 


Winter 


Pipoun 


Pipone. 


Island 


Ministick 


Minisa. 


Lake 


Sagayigan 


Sagayigan. 


Sun 


Pisira 


Kijis. 


Moon 


T i b i sc a pesim 
(the night Sun 


Dibic Kiji 

) 


Day 


Kigigah 


Kigi gatte. 


Night 


Tabisca 


Dibic kawte. 


Snow- 


Counah 


So qui po. 


Rain 


Kimiwoin 


Ki mi woini 


Drift 


Pewan 

clxiii 


Pi-woine. 



A GENERAL HISTORY 





Knisteneaux. 


Algonquin. 


Hail 


Shes eagan 


Me qua mensan. 


Ice 


Mesquaming 


Me quam. 


Frost 


Aquatin 


Gas-ga-tin. 


Mist 


Picasyow 


An-quo-et. 


Water 


Nepec 


Nipei. 


World 


Messeasky (all 
the earth) 


Missi achki. 


Mountain 


Wachee 


Watchive. 


Sea 


Kitchi kitchi ga 


- Kitchi kitchi ga- 




ming 


ming. 


Morning 


Kequishepe 


Ki-ki-jep. 


Mid -day 


Abetah quisheik 


Na ock quoi. 


Portage 


Unygam 


Ouni-gam. 


Spring 


Menouscaming 


Mino ka ming. 


River 


Sipee 


Sipi. 


Rapid 


Bawastick 


Ba wetick. 


Rivulet 


Sepeesis 


Sipi wes chin. 


Sand 


Thocaw 


Ne gawe. 


Earth 


Askee 


Ach ki. 


Star 


Attack 


Anang. 


Thunder 


Pithuseu 


Ni mi ki. 


Wind 


Thoutin 


No tine. 


Calm 


Athawostin 


A-no-a-tine. 


Heat 


Quishipoi 


Aboyce. 


Evening 


Ta kashike 


O'n-a-guche. 


North 


Kywoitin 


Ke woitinak. 


South 


Sawena woon 


S h a - w a - n a- 

wang. 


East 


Coshawcastak 


Wa-ba no-no- 
tine. 


West 


Paquisimow 


Panguis-chi-mo. 


To-morrow 


Wabank 


Wa-bang. 


Bone 


Oskann 


Oc-kann. 


Broth 


Michim waboi 


Thaboub. 


Feast 


Ma qua see 


Wi con qui wine. 


Grease or oil 


Pimis 

clxiv 


Pimi-tais. 



t 

I 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 





Knisteneaux. 


Algonquin. 


Marrow fat 


Oscan pimis 


Oska-pimitais. 


Sinew 


Asstis 


Attiss. 


Lodge 


Wig-waum 


Wi-gui-wam. 


Bed 


Ne pa win 


Ne pai wine. 


Within 


Pendog ke 


Pendig. 


Door 


Squaiidam 


Scouandam. 


Dish 


Othagan 


0' na gann. 


Fort 


Wasgaigan 


Wa-kuigan. 


Sledge 


Tabanask 


Otabanac. 


Cincture 


Poquoatehoun 


Ketche pisou. 


Cap 


Astotin 


Pe matinang. 


Socks 


Ashican 


A chi-gan. 


Shirt 


Papackeweyan 


Pa pa ki M'eyan. 


Coat 


Papise-co-wa 


- Papise - c - w a ' 




gan 


gan. 


Blanket 


Wape weyang 


Wape weyan. 


Cloth 


Maneto weguin 


Maneto weguin. 


Thread 


Assabab 


Assabab. 


Garters 


Chi ki-bisoon 


Fi gaske-tase be- 
soun. 


Mittens 


Astissack 


Medjica wine. 


Shoes 


Maskisin 


Makisin. 


Smoking bag 


Kusquepetagan 


Kasquepetagan. 


Portage sling 


Apisan 


Apican. 


Strait on 


Goi ask 


Goi-ack. 


Medicine 


Mas ki kee 


Macki-ki. 


Red 


Mes coh 


Mes-cowa. 


Blue 


Kasqutch (same 
as black) 


} O-jawes-cowa. 


White 


Wabisca 


Wabisca. 


Yellow 


Saw waw 


0-jawa. 


Green 


Chibatiquare 


O'jawes-cowa. 


Brown 




O'jawes-cowa. 


Grey, etc. 




O'jawes-cowa. 


Ugly 


Mache na gou 


Mous-counu- 




seu 


gouse. 




clxv 





A GENERAL HISTORY 





Kaisteneaux. 


Algonquin. 


Handsome 


Catawassiseu 


Nam bissa. 


Beautiful 


Kissi Sawenogan Quoi Natch. 


Deaf 


Nima petom 


Ka ki be chai. 


Good-natured 


Mithiwashin 


Onichishin. 


Pregnant 


Paawie 


And-jioko, 


Fat 


Outhineu 


Oui-ni-noe. 


Big 


Mushikitee 


Messha. 


Small or little 


Abisasheu 


Agu-chin. 


Short 


Chemasish 


Tackosi. 


Skin 


Wian 


Wian. 


Long 


Kinwain 


Kiniwa. 


Strong 


Mascawa 


Mache-cawa. 
Mas-cawise. 


Coward 


Sagatahaw 


Cha-goutai-3^e. 


Weak 


Nitha missew 


Cha-gousi. 


Lean 


Mahta waw 


Ka wa ca tosa. 


Brave 


Nima Gustaw 


Son qui taige. 


Young man 


Osquineguish 


Oskinigui. 


Cold 


Kissin 


Kissinan. 


Hot 


Kichatai 


Kicha tai. 


Spring 


Minouscaming 


Minokaming. 


Summer 


Nibin 


Nibiqui. 


Fall 


Tagowagonk 


Tagowag. 


One 


Peyac 


Pecheik. 


Two 


Nisheu 


' Nige. 


Three 


Nishtou 


Nis-w^ois. 


Four 


Neway 


Ne-au. 


Five 


Ni-annan 


Na-nan. 


Six 


Negoutawoesic 


Ni gouta was- 
w^ois. 


Seven 


Nish woisic 


Nigi-was-w^ois. 


Eight 


Jannanew 


She was wois. 


Nine 


Shack 


Shann was wois. 


Ten 


Mitatat 


Mit-asswois. 


Eleven 


Peyac osap 


Mitasswois, 
hachi peche.k. 



clxvi 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 





Knfsteneaux. 


Algonquin. 


Twelve 


Nisheu osap 


Mitasswois, 
hachi, nige. 


Thirteen 


Nichtou osap 


Mitasswois, 
hachi, niswois. 


Fourteen 


Neway osap 


Mitasswois, 
hachi, ne-au. 


Fifteen 


Niannan osap 


Mitasswois, 
hachi, nanan. 


Sixteen 


Nigoutawo e s i c 


Mitasswois, 




osap 


hachi, negou- 
tawaswois. 


Seventeen 


Nish woesic osap 


Mitasswois, 
hachi, n i g i 
was-wois. 


Eighteen 


Jannanew osap 


Mitasswois, 
hachi, shiwass- 
wois. 


Nineteen 


Shack osap 


Mitasswois, 
hachi, shang 
as wois. 


Twenty- 


Nisheii mitenah 


Nigeta-nan. 


Twenty -one 


Nishew mitenah Nigeta nan, 




peyac osap 


hachi, pechic. 


Twenty-two 


Nisheu mitenah 




etc. 


nishew osap 




Thirty 


Nishtou mitenah Niswois mita- 






nan. 


Forty 


Nev/ay mitenah 


Neau mitanan. 


Fifty 


Niannan mite- 
nah 


Nanan mitanan. 


Sixty 


Negoutawoisic 


Nigouta was 




mitenah 


wois mitanan. 


Seventy 


Nishwoisic mite- 


Nigi was wois 




nah 


mitanan. 


Eighty 


Jannaeu mitenah She was wos mi- 






tanan. 



clxvii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 





Knlsteneaux. 


Algonquin. 


Ninety 


Shack mitenah 


Shang was wois 
mitanan. 


Hundred 


Mitana mitenan 


Ningoutwack. 


Two hundred 


Neshew miteua a Nige wack. 




mitenah 




One thousand 


Mitenah mitena Kitchi wack. 




mitenah 




First 


Nican 


Nitam. 


Last 


Squayatch 


Shaquoiyanke. 


More 


Minah 


Awa-clii min. 


Better 


Athiwack mitha 


- A wachimin o 




washin 


nichi shen. 


Best 


Atni wack mitha 


- Kitchi nichi 




washin 


shin. 


I, or me 


Nitha 


Nin. 


You, or thou 


Kitha 


Kin. 


They, or them 


Withawaw 


Win na wa; 


We 


Nithawaw 


Nina wa. 


My, or mine 


Nitayan 


Nida yam. 


Your's 


Kitayan 


Kitayam. 


Who 




Auoni. 


Whom 


Awoine 


Kegoi nin. 


What 




Wa. 


His, or her's 


Otayan 


Otayim mis. 


All 


Kakithau 


Kakenan. 


Some, or some Pey peyac 


Pe-pichic. 


few 






The same 


Tabescoutch 


Mi tayoche. 


All the world 


Missi acki wan 
que 


- Mishiwai asky. 


All the men 


Kakithaw Ethi Missi I n i n i 




nyock 


wock. 


More 


Mina 


Mina wa. 


Now and then 




Nannigouten- 
gue. 


Sometimes 


I as cow-puco 
clxviii 





OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 



Seldom 
Arrive 
Beat 
To burn 
To sing 
To cut 
To hide 
To cover 
To believe 
To sleep 
To dispute 
To dance 
To give 
To do 
To eat 
To die 
To forget 
To speak 
To cry (tears) 
To laugh 
To set down 
To walk 
To fall 
To work 
To kill 
To sell 
To live 
To see 
To come 
Enough 
Cry (tears) 
It hails 

There is } 

There is some f 

It rains 

After to-morrow 



Knisteneaux. 

Ta couchin 

Otamaha 

Mistascasoo 

Nagamoun 

Kisquishan 

Catann 

Acquahoun 

Taboitam 

Nepan 

Ke ko mitowock 

Nemaytow 

Mith 

Ogitann 

Wissiuee 

Nepew 

Winnekiskisew 

Athimetakcouse 

Mantow 

Papew 

Nematappe 

Pimoutais 

Packisin 

Ah tus kew 

Nipahaw 

Attawoin 

Pimatise 

Wabam 

Astamoteh 

Egothigog 

Manteau 

Shisiagan 

Aya wa 

Quimiwoin 
Aw is wabank 
clxix 



Algonquin. 
Wica ac-ko. 
Ta-gouchin. 
Packit-ais. 
Icha-quiso. 
Nagam. 
Qui qui jan. 
Caso tawe. 
A CO na oune. 
Tai boitam. 
Ni pann. 
Ki quaidiwine. 
Nimic. 
Mih. 

0-gitoune. 
Wissiniwin. 
Ni po wen. 
Woi ni mi kaw. 
Aninntagousse. 
Ma wi. 
Pa-pe 

Na matape win. 
Pemoussai. 
Panguishin. 
Anokeh. 
Nishi-woes. 
Ata wois. 
Pematis. 
Wab. 

Pitta-si-mouss. 
Mi mi nic. 
Ambai ma wita 
Sai saigaun. 

Aya wan. 

Qui mi woin. 
Awes wabang. 



A GENERAL HISTORY 



1 





Knisteneaux. 


Algonquin. 


To-day 


Anoutch 


Non gum. 


Thereaway 


Netoi 


Awoite. 


Much 


Michett 


Ni bi wa. 


Presently 


[ Pichisqua 


Pitchinac. 


Make, heart 


Quithipeh 


Wai we be. 


This morning 


Shebas 


Shai bas. 


This night 


Tibiscag 


De bi cong. 


Above 


Espiming 


O kitchiai. 


Below 


Tabassish 


Ana mai. 


Truly 


Taboiy 


Ne de wache. 


Already 


Sashay 


Sha shaye. 


Yet more 


Minah 


Mina wa. 


Yesterday 


Tacoushick 


Pitchinago. 


Far 


Wathow 


Wassa. 


Near 


Quishiwoac 


Paishou. 


Never 


Nima wecatch 


Ka wi ka. 


No 


Nima 


Ka wine. 


Yes 


Ah 


In. 


By-and-bye 


Pa-nima 


Pa nima. 


Always 


Ka-ki-kee 


Ka qui nick 


Make haste 


Quethepeh 


Niguim. 


It's long since 


Mewaisha 


Mon wisha. 



clxx 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 



SOME ACCOUNT OF THE CHEPE- 
WYAN INDIANS. 

They are a numerous people, who consider 
the country between the parallels of latitude 
60. and 65. North, and longitude 100. to 
110. West, as their lands or home. They 
speak a copious language, which is very diffi- 
cult to be attained, and furnishes dialects to 
the various emigrant tribes which inhabit the 
following immense track of country, whose 
boundary I shall describe.* It begins at 
Churchill, and runs along the line of separa- 
tion between them and the Knisteneaux, up 
the Missinipi to the Isle a la Crosse, passing 
on through the Buffalo Lake, River Lake, 
and Portage la Loche: from thence it pro- 
ceeds by the Elk River to the Lake of the 
Hills, and goes directly West to the Peach 
River; and up that river to its source and 
tributary waters ; from whence it proceeds to 
the waters of the river Columbia; and fol- 
lows that river to latitude 52. 24. North, and 
longitude 22. 54. West, where the Chepe- 

* Those of them who come to trade with us, do not 
exceed eight hundred men, and have a smattering 
of the Knisteueau tongue, in whicli they carry on 
their dealings with us. 

clxxi 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

wyans have the Atnah or Chin Nation for 
their neighbours. It then takes a line due 
West to the seacoast, within which, the coun- 
try is possessed by a people who speak their 
language* and are consequently descended 
from them : there can be no doubt, therefore, 
of their progress being to the Eastward. A 
tribe of them is even known at the upper 
establishments on the Saskatchiwine ; and I 
do not pretend to ascertain how far they may 
follow the Eocky Mountains to the East. 

It is not possible to form any just estimate 
of their numbers, but it is apparent, never- 
theless, that they are by no means propor- 
tionate to the vast extent of their territories, 
which may, in some degree, be attributed to 
the ravages of the small-pox, wliich are, 
more or less, evident throughout this part of 
the continent. 

The notion which these people entertain of 
the creation, is of a very singular nature. 
They believe that, at the first, the globe was 
one vast and entire ocean, inhabited by no 
living creature, except a mighty bird, whose 
eyes were fire, whose glances were lightning, 
and the clapping of whose wings were thun- 
der. On his descent to the ocean, and touch- 
ing it, the earth instantly arose, and re- 

* The coast is inhabited on the North -West by the 
Eskimaux, and on the Pacific Ocean by a people 
diflfercnt from both. 

clxxii 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

mained on the surface of the waters. This 
omnipotent bird then called forth a'l the 
variety of animals from the earth, except the 
Chepewyans, who were produced from a dog ; 
and this circumstance occasions their aversion 
to the flesh of that animal, as well as the 
people who eat it. This extraordinary tradi- 
tion proceeds to relate, that the great bird, 
having finished his Avork, made an arrow, 
which was to be preserved with great care, 
and to remain untouched ; but that the Chepe- 
wyans were so devoid of understanding, as to 
carry it away ; and the sacrilege so enraged 
the great bird, that he has never since ap- 
peared. 

They have also a tradition amongst them, 
that they originally came from another coun- 
try, inhabited by very wicked people, and 
had traversed a great lake, which was nar- 
row, shallow, and full of islands, where they 
had suffered great misery, it being always 
winter, with ice and deep snow. At the 
Copper-Mine River, where they made the 
first land, the ground was covered with cop- 
per, over which a body of earth had since 
been collected, to the depth of a man's height. 
They believe, also, that in ancient times their 
ancestors lived till their feet were worn out 
with walking, and their throats with eating. 
They describe a deluge, when the waters 
spread over the whole earth, except the high- 
clxxiii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

est mountains, on the tops of which they pre- 
served themselves. 

They believe, that immediately after their 
death, they pass into another world, where 
they arrive at a large river, on which they 
embark in a stone canoe, and that a gentle 
current bears them on to an extensive lake, 
in the centre of which is a most beautiful 
island ; and that, in the view of this delight- 
ful abode, they receive that judgment for 
their conduct during life, which terminates 
their final state and unalterable allotment. 
If their good actions are declared to predom- 
inate, they are landed upon the island, where 
there is to be no end to their happiness; 
which, however, according to their notions, 
consists in an eternal enjoyment of sensual 
pleasure, and carnal gratification. But if 
their bad actions weigh down the balance, 
the stone canoe sinks at once, and leaves 
them up to their chins in the water, to be- 
hold and regret the reward enjoyed by the 
good, and eternally struggling, but with un- 
availing endeavours, to reach the blissful 
island, from which they are excluded for ever. 

They have some faint notions of the trans- 
migration of the soul ; so that if a child be 
born with teeth, they instantly imagine, from 
its premature appearance, that it bears a re- 
semblance to some person who had lived to 
an advanced period, and that he has assumed 
clxxiv 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

a renovated life, with these extraordinary 
tokens of maturity. 

The Chepewyans are sober, timorous, and 
vagrant, with a selfish disposition that has 
sometimes created suspicions of their integ- 
rity. Their stature has nothing remarkable 
in it ; but though they are seldom corpulent, 
they are sometimes robust. Their complexion 
is swarthy; their features coarse, and their 
hair lank, but always of a dingy black ; nor 
have they universally the piercing eye, which 
generally animates the Indian countenance. 
The women have a more agreeable aspect than 
the men, but their gait is awkward, which 
proceeds from their being accustomed, nine 
months in the year, to travel on snow-shoes 
and drag sledges of a weight from two to four 
hundred pounds. They are very submissive to 
their husbands, who have, however, their fits 
of jealousy; and, for very trifling causes, 
treat them with such cruelty as sometimes to 
occasion their death. They are frequently 
objects of traffic ; and the father possesses the 
right of disposing of his daughter.* The 
men in general extract their beards, though 
some of them are seen to prefer a bushy black 
beard, to a smooth chin. They cut their hair 
in various forms, or leave it in a long, natural 

* They do not, however, sell them as slaves, but as 
companions to those who are supposed to live more 
comfortably than themselves, 
clxxv 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

flow, accordiDg as their caprice or fancy sug- 
gests. The women always wear it in great 
length, and some of them are very attentive 
to its arrangement. If they at any time ap- 
pear despoiled of their tresses, it is to be 
esteemed a proof of the husband's jealousy, 
and is considered as a severer punishment 
than manual correction. Both sexes have 
Hue or black bars, or from one to four 
straight lines on their cheeks or forehead, to 
distinguish the tribe to which they belong. 
These marks are either tattooed, or made by 
drawing a thread, dipped in the necessary 
colour, beneath the skin. 

There are no people more attentive to the 
comforts of their dress, or less anxious re- 
specting its exterior appearance. In the win- 
ter it is composed of the skins of deer, and 
their fawns, and dressed as fine as any 
chamois leather, in the hair. In the summer 
their apparel is the same, except that it is 
prepared without the hair. Their shoes and 
leggins are sewed together, the latter reach- 
ing upwards to the middle, and being sup- 
ported by a belt, under which a small piece 
of leather is drawn to cover the private parts, 
the ends of which fall down both before and 
behind. In the shoes they put the hair of 
the moose or reindeer with additional pieces 
of leather as socks. The shirt or coat, when 
girted round the waist, reaches to the middle 
clxxvi 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

of the thigh, and the mittens are sewed to the 
sleeves, or are suspended by strings from the 
shoulders. A ruff or tippet surrounds the 
neck, and the skin of the head of the deer 
forms a curious kind of cap. A robe, made 
of several deer or fawn skins sewed together, 
covers the whole. This dress is worn single 
or double, but always in the winter, with the 
hair within and without. Thus arrayed a 
Chepewyan will lay himself down on the ice 
in the middle of a lake, and repose in com- 
fort; though he will sometimes find a diffi- 
culty in the morning to disencumber himself 
from the snow drifted on him during the 
night. If in his passage he should be in want 
of provision, he cuts a hole in the ice, when, 
he seldom fails of taking some trout or pike, 
whose eyes he instantly scoops out, and eats 
as a great delicacy; but if they should not be 
sufficient to satisfy his appetite, he will, in 
this necessity make his meal of the fish in its 
raw state ; but, those whom I saw, preferred 
to dress their victuals when circumstances 
admitted the necessary preparation. Whea 
they are in that part of their country which 
does not produce a sufficient quantity of 
wood for fuel, they are reduced to the same 
exigency, though they generally dry their 
meat in the sun.* 

*The provision called pemmican, on which the 
Chepewyans, as well as the other savages of this. 
12 clxxvii 



A GE!S'ERAL HISTORY 

The dress of the women differs from that 
of the men. Their leggins are tied below the 
knee ; and their coat or shift is wide, hang- 
ing down to the ankle, and is tucked up at 
pleasure by means of a belt, which is fastened 
round the waist. Those who have children 
have these garments made very full about the 
shoulders, as when they are travelling they 
carry their infants upon their backs, next 
their skin, in which situation they are per- 
fectly comfortable and in a position conveni- 
ent to be suckled. Nor do they discontinue 

country, chiefly subsist in their journeys, is prepared 
in the following manner : The lean parts of the flesh 
of the larger animals are cut in thin slices, and are 
placed on a wooden grate over a slow fire, or exposed 
to the sun, and sometimes to the frost. These oper- 
ations dry it, and in that state it is pounded between 
two stones ; it will then keep with care for several 
years. If, however, it is kept in large quantities, it 
is disposed to ferment in the spring of the year, 
when it must be exposed to the air, or it will soon 
decay. The inside fat, and that of the rump, which 
is much thicker in these wild than our domestic ani- 
mals, is melted down and mixed, in a boiling state 
with the pounded meat, in equal proportions: it is 
then put in baskets or bags for the convenience of 
carrying it. Thus it becomes a nutritious food, and 
is eaten, without any further preparation, or tlie 
addition of spice, salt, or any vegetable or farina- 
ceous substance. A little time reconciles it to the 
palate. There is another sort made with the addi- 
tion of marrow and dried berries, which is of a supe- 
rior quality. 

clxxviii 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

to give their milk to them till they have au- 
other child. Childbirth is not the object of 
that teuder care and serious attention among 
the savages as it is among civilised people. 
At this period no part of their usual occupa- 
tion is omitted, and this continual and regu- 
lar exercise must contribute to the welfare of 
the mother, both in the progress of parturi- 
tion and in the moment of delivery. The 
women have a singular custom of cutting off 
a small piece of the navel string of the new- 
born children, and hang it about their necks: 
they are also curious in the covering they 
make for it, which they decorate with porcu- 
pine's qaills and beads. 

Though the women are as much in the 
power of the men, as other articles of their 
property, they are always consulted, and 
possess a very considerable influence in the 
traffic with Europeans, and other important 
concerns. 

Plurality of wives is common among them, 
and the ceremony of marriage is of a very 
simple nature. The girls are betrothed at a 
very early period to those whom the parents 
think the best able to support them : nor is 
the inclination of the women considered. 
Whenever a separation takes place, which 
sometimes happens, it depends entirely on 
the will and pleasure of the husband. In 
common with the other Indians of this coun- 
clxxix 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

try, they have a custom respecting the peri- 
odical state of a woman, which is rigorously 
observed : at that time she must seclude her- 
self from society. They are not even allowed 
in that situation to keep the same path as the 
men, when travelling : and it is considered a 
great breach of decency for a woman so cir- 
cumstanced to touch any utensils of manly 
occupation. Such a circumstance is sup- 
posed to defile them, so that their subsequent 
use would be followed by certain mischief or 
misfortune. There are particular skins which 
the women never touch, as of the bear and 
wolf; and those animals the men are seldom 
known to kill. 

They are not remarkable for their activity 
as hunters, which is owing to the ease with 
which they snare deer and spear fish : and 
these occupations are not beyond the strength 
of their old men, women, and boys : so that 
they participate in those laborious occupa- 
tions, which among their neighbours are con- 
fined to the women. They make war on the 
Esquimaux, who cannot resist their superior 
numbers, and put them to death, as it is a 
principle with them never to make prisoners. 
At the same time they tamely submit to the 
Knisteneaux, who are not so numerous as 
themselves, when they treat them as enemies. 

They do not affect that cold reserve at 
meeting, either among themselves or stran- 
clxxx 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

gers, which is common with the Knisteneaux, 
but communicate mutually, and at once, all 
the information of which they are possessed. 
Nor are they roused like them from an ap- 
parent torpor to a state of great activity. 
They are consequently more uniform in this 
respect, though they are of a very persever- 
ing disposition when their interest is con- 
cerned. 

As these people are not addicted to spirit- 
uous liquors, they have a regular and unin- 
terrupted use of their understanding, which 
is always directed to the advancement of 
their own interest; and this disposition, as 
may be readily imagined, sometimes occa- 
sions them to be charged with fraudulent 
habits. They will submit with patience ta 
the severest treatment, when they are con- 
scious that they deserve it, but will never 
forget or forgive any wanton or unnecessary 
rigour. A moderate conduct I never found 
to fail, nor do I hesitate to represent them, 
altogether, as the most peaceable tribe of In- 
dians known in North America. 

There are conjurers and high-priests, but I 
was not present at any of their ceremonies ; 
though they certainly operate in an extraor- 
dinary manner on the imaginations of the 
people in the cure of disorders. Their prin- 
cipal maladies are, rheumatic pains, the flux 
and consumption. The venereal complaint is 
clxxxi 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

very common ; but though its progress is slow, 
it gradually undermines the constitution, and 
brings on premature decay. They have re- 
course to superstition for their cure, and 
charms are their only remedies, except the 
bark of the willow, which being burned and 
reduced to powder, is strewed upon green 
wounds and ulcers, and places contrived for 
promoting perspiration. Of the use of sim- 
ples and plants they have no knowledge ; nor 
can it be expected, as their country does not 
produce them. 

Though they have enjoyed so long an in- 
tercourse with Europeans, their country is so 
barren , as not to be capable of producing the 
ordinary necessaries naturally introduced by 
such a communication ; and they continue, in 
a great measure, their own inconvenient and 
awkward modes of taking their game and 
preparing it when taken. Sometimes they 
drive the deer into the small lakes, where 
they spear them, or force them into inclo- 
sures, where the bow and arrow are employed 
against them. These animals are also taken 
in snares make of skin. In the former in- 
stance the game is divided among those who 
have been engaged in the pursuit of it. In 
the latter it is considered as private property ; 
nevertheless, any unsuccessful hunter pass- 
ing by, may take a deer so caught, leaving 
the- head; skin, and saddle for the owner. 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

Thus, though they have no regular govern- 
ment, as every man is lord in his own family, 
they are influenced, more or less, by certain 
principles which condone to their general 
benefit. 

In their quarrels with each other, they very 
rarely proceed to a greater degree of violence 
than is occasioned by blows, wrestling, and 
pulling of the hair, while their abusive lan- 
guage consists in applying the name of the 
most offensive animal to the object of their 
displeasure, and adding the term ugly, and 
chiay, or still-born.* 

Their arms and domestic apparatus, in ad- 
dition to the articles procured from Euro- 
peans, are spears, bows, and arrows, fishing- 
nets, and lines made of green deer-skin thongs. 
They have also nets for taking the beaver as 
he endeavours to escape from his lodge when 
it is broken open. It is set in a particular 
manner for the purpose, and a man is em- 
ployed to watch the moment when he enters 
the snare, or he would soon cut his way 
through it. He is then thrown upon the ice 
where he remains as if he had no life in him. 

The snow-shoes are of a very superior 
workmanship. The inner part of their frame 
is straight, the outer one is curved, and it is 

* This name is also applicable to the foetus of an 
animal, when killed, which is considered as one of 
the greatest delicacies. 

clxxxiii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

pointed at both ends, with that in front 
turned up. They are also laced with great 
neatness with thongs made of deer-skin. The 
sledges are formed of thin slips of board 
turned up also in front, and are highly pol- 
ished with crooked knives, in order to slide 
along with facility. Close-grained wood is, 
on that acount, the best; but theirs are made 
of the red or swamp spruce-fir tree. 

The country, which these people claim as 
their land, has a very small quantity of earth, 
and produces little or no wood or herbage. 
Its chief vegetable substance is the moss, on 
which the deer feed; and a kind of rock 
moss, which, in times of scarcity, preserves 
the lives of the natives. When boiled in 
water, it dissolves into a clammy, glutinous 
substance, that affords a very sufficient nour- 
ishinent. But, notwithstanding the barren 
state of their country, with proper care and 
economy, these people might live in great 
comfort, for the lakes abound in fish, and the 
hills are covered with deer. Though, of all 
the Indian people of this continent they are 
considered as the most provident, they suffer 
severely at certain seasons, and particularly 
in the dead of winter, when they are under 
the necessity of retiring to their scanty, 
stinted woods. To the Westward of them the 
musk-ox may be found, but they have no de- 
pendence on it as an article of sustenance, 
clxxxiv 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

There are also large hares, a few white 
wolves, peculiar to their country, and several 
kinds of foxes, with white and grey par- 
tridges, etc. The beaver and moose-deer 
the}^ do not find till they come within 60 de- 
grees North latitude ; and the buffalo is still 
further South. That animal is known to fre- 
quent an higher latitude to the Westward of 
their country. These people bring pieces of 
beautiful variegated marble, which are found 
on the surface of the earth. It is easily 
worked, bears a fine polish, and hardens with 
time ; it endures heat, and is manufactured 
into pipes or calumets, as they are very fond 
of smoking tobacco ; a luxury which the Euro- 
peans communicated to them. 

Their amusements or recreations are but 
few. Their music is so inharmonious, and 
their dancing so awkward, that they might 
be supposed to be ashamed of both, as they 
very seldom practise either. They also shoot 
at marks, and play at the games common 
among them ; but in fact they prefer sleep- 
ing to either ; and the greater part of their 
time is passed in procuring food, and resting 
from the toil necessary to obtain it. 

They are also of a querulous disposition, 
and are continually making complaints ; which 
they express by a constant repetition of the 
word eduiy, " it is hard," in a whining and 
plaintive tone of voice. 

clxxxv 



A GENERAL HISTORY 

They are superstitious in the extreme, and 
almost every action of their lives, however 
trivial, is more or less influenced by some 
whimsical notion. I never observed that 
they had any partcular form of religious wor- 
ship ; but as they believe in a good and evil 
spirit, and a state of future rewards and 
punishments, they cannot be devoid of relig- 
ious impressions. At the same time they 
manifest a decided unwillingness to make any 
communications on the subject. 

The Chepewyans have been accused of 
abandoning their aged and infirm people to 
perish, and of not burying their dead; but 
these are melancholy necessities, which pro- 
ceed from their wandering way of life. They 
are by no means universal, for it is within my 
knowledge, that a man, rendered helpless by 
the palsy, was carried about for many years, 
with the gi-eatest tenderness and attention, 
till he died a natural death. That they should 
not bury their dead in their own country, 
cannot be imputed to them as a custom aris- 
ing from a savage insensibility, as they in- 
habit such high latitudes that the ground 
never thaws ; but it is well known, that when 
they are in the woods, they cover their dead 
with trees. Besides, they manifest no com- 
mon respect to the memory of their departed 
friends, by a long period of mourning, cut- 
ting off their hair, and never making use of 
clxxxvi 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 

the property of the deceased. Nay, they 
frequently destroy or sacrifice their own, as 
a token of regret and sorrow. 

If there be any people who, from the bar- 
ren state of their country, might be supposed 
to be cannibals by nature, these people, from 
the difficulty they, at times, experience in 
procuring food, might be liable to that impu- 
tation. But, in all my knowledge of them, 
I never was acquainted with one instance of 
that disposition ; nor among all the natives 
which I met with in a route of five thousand 
miles, did I see or hear of an example of 
cannibalism, but such as arose from that ir- 
resistible necessity, which has been known to 
impel even the most civilised people to eat 
each other. 



Example op the Chepewyan Tongue. 


Man 


Dinnie. 


Woman 


Chequois. 


Young man 


Quelaquis. 


Young woman 


Quelaquis chequoi. 


My son 


Zi azay. 


My daughter 


Zi lengai. 


My husband 


Zi dinnie. 


My wife 


Zi zayunai. 


My brother 


Zi raing. 


My father 


Zi tah. 


My mother 


Zi nah. 


My grandfather 


Zi unai. 


Me, or my 


See. 




clxxxvii 



A GENERAL HISTORY 



I 


Ne. 


You 


Nun. 


They 


Be. 


Head 


Edthie. 


Hand 


Law. 


Leg- 


Edthen. 


Foot 


Cuh. 


Eyes 


Nackhay. 


Teeth 


Goo. 


Side 


Kac-hey. 


Belly 


Bitt. 


Tongue 


Edthu. 


Hair 


Thiegah. 


Back 


Losseh. 


Blood 


Dell. 


The Knee 


Cha-gutc. 


Clothes or Blanket 


Etlunay. 


Coat 


Eeh. 


Leggin 


Then. 


Shoes 


Kinchee. 


Robe or Blanket 


Thuth. 


Sleeves 


Bah. 


Mittens 


Geese. 


Cap 


Sah. 


Swan 


Kagouce. 


Duck 


Keth. 


Goose 


Gah. 


White partridge 


Cass bah. 


Grey partridge 


Deyee. 


Buffalo 


Giddy. 


Moose deer 


Dinyai. 


Rein deer 


Edthun. 


Beaver 


Zah. 


Bear 


Zass. 


Otter 


Gaby-ai. 


Martin 


Thah. 


Wolverine 


Naguiyai 


clxxxviii 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 



Wolf 


Yess (Nouhoay> 


Fox 


Naguethey. 


Hare 


Cah. 


Dog 


Sliengh. 


Beaver-skin 


Zah thah. 


Otter-skin 


Naby-ai thith. 


Moose-skin 


Deny-ai thith. 


Fat 


Icah. 


Grease 


Thless. 


Meat 


Bid. 


Pike 


Uldiah. 


White-fish 


Slouev. 


Trout 


Slouey zinai. 


Pickerel 


G'Gah. 


Fish-hook 


Ge-eth. 


Fish-lin-i 


Clulez. 


One 


Slachy. 


Two 


Naghur. 


Three 


Tagh-y. 


Four 


Dengk-y. 


Five 


Sasoulachee. 


Six 


Alki tar-hy-y. 


Seven 




Eight 


Alki deing-hy. 


Nine 


Cakina hanoth-na. 


Ten 


Ca noth na. 


Twenty- 


Na ghur cha noth na 


Fire 


Counn. 


Water 


Toue. 


Wood 


Dethkin. 


Ice 


Thun. 


Snow 


Yath. 


Rain 


Thinnelsee. 


Lake 


Touey. 


River 


Tesse. 


Mountain 


Zeth. 


Stone 


Thaih. 



clxxxix 



A GENERAL HISTORY 



Berries 


Gui-eh. 


Hot 


Edowh. 


Cold 


Edzah. 


Island 


Nouey. 


Gun 


Telkithy. 


Powder 


Telkithy counna. 


Knife 


Bess. 


Axe 


Thynlc. 


Sue 




Moon 


Sah. 


Red 


Deli couse. 


Black 


Dell zin. 


Trade, or barter 


Na-houn-ny. 


Good 


Leyzong. 


Not good 


Leyzong houiiey. 


Stinking 


Geddey. 


Bad, ugly 


Slieney. 


Long since 


Galladinna. 


Now, to-day 


Ganneli. 


To-morrow 


Gambeh. 


By-and-bye, or presently GarahouUeh. 


House, or lodge 


Cooen. 


Canoe 


Shaluzee. 


Door 


The ball. 


Leather-lodge 


N'abalay. 


Chief 


Buchahudry. 


Mine 


Zidzy. 


His 


Bedzy. 


Yours 


Nuntzy. 


Large 


Unshaw. 


Small, or little 


Chautah. 


I love you 


Ba eioinichdinh. 


I hate you 


Bucnoinichadinh hillay. 


I am to be pitied 


Est-chounest-hinay. 


My relation 


Sy lod, innay. 


Give me water 


Too hanniltu. 


Give me meat 


Beds-hanniltu. 




CXC 



OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. 



Give me fish 

Give me meat to eat 

Give me water to drink 

It is far off 

Is it not far 

It is near 

How many 

What call you him, or 

that 
Come here 
Pain, or suffc^^ng 
It's hard 
You lie 
What then 



Sloeeh anneltu. 
Bid Barheeth&r. 
To Barhithen. 
Netha uzany. 
Nilduay uzany. 
Nitha-hillal. 
Nilduay. 

Etlaneldey. 
Etla houllia. 
Yeu dessay. 
I-yah. 
Untzee. 
Eldaw-guebo 



cxei 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE, &c. 



CHAPTER I. 



JUNE, 1789 

Wednesday f 3. — We embarked at nine in 
the morning, at Fort Chepewyan, on the 
South side of the Lake of the Hills, in lati- 
tude 58. 40. North, and longitude 110 30. 
West from Greenwich, and compass has six- 
teen degrees variation East, in a canoe made 
of birch bark. The crew consisted of four 
Canadians, two of whom were attended by 
their wives, and a German ; we were accom- 
panied also by an Indian, who had acquired 
the title of English Chief, and his two wives, 
in a snail canoe, with two young Indians ; 
his followers in another small canoe. These 
men were engaged to serve us in the twofold 
capacity of interpreters and hunters. This 
chief has been a principal leader of his coun- 
trymen who were in the habit of carrying 
furs to Churchill Factory, Hudson's Bay, and 
till of late very much attached to the interest 
of that company. These circumstances pro- 
cured him the appellation of the English 
Chief. 

13 193 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

We were also accompanied by a canoe that 
I had equipped for the purpose of trade, and 
given the charge of it to M. Le Eoux, one of 
the Company's clerks. In this I was obliged 
to ship part of our provision; which, with 
the clothing necessary for us on the voyage, 
a proper assortment of the articles of mer- 
chandise as presents, to ensure us a friendly 
reception among the Indians, and the ammu- 
nition and arms requisite for defence, as well 
as a supply for our hunters, were more than 
our own canoe could carry, but by the time 
we should part company, there was every 
reason to suppose that our expenditure would 
make sufficient room for the whole. 

We proceeded twenty-one miles to the 
West, and then took a course of nine miles 
to North-ISTorth-West, when we entered the 
river, or one of the branches of the lake, of 
which there are several. W^e then steered 
North five miles, when our course changed for 
two miles to North-North-East, and here at 
seven in the evening we landed and pitched 
our tents. One of the hunters killed a goose, 
and a couple of ducks : at the same time the 
canoe was taken out of the water, to be 
gummed, which necessary business was effec- 
tually performed. 

Thursday, 4- — We embarked at four this 
morning, and proceeded North-North-East 
half a mile, North one mile and a half, AVest 
194 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

two miles, North-West two miles, West- 
North- West one mile and a half, North- 
North-West half a mile, and West-North- 
West two miles, when this branch loses itself 
in the Peace River. It is remarkable, that 
the currents of these various branches of the 
lake, when the Peace River is high, as in May 
and August, run into the lake, which, in the 
other months of the year returns its waters 
to them ; whence, to this place, the branch is 
not more than two hundred yards wide, nor 
less than an hundred and twenty. The banks 
are rather low, except in one place, where an 
huge rock rises above them. The low land is 
covered with wood, such as white birch, pines 
of different kinds, with the poplar, three kinds 
of willow, and the liard. 

The Peace River is upwards of a mile broad 
at this spot, and its current is stronger than 
that of the channel which communicates with 
the lake. It here, indeed, assumes the name 
of the Slave River.* The course of this day 
was as follows: — North- West two miles, 
North-North- West, through islands, six miles. 
North four miles and a half. North by East 

*Tlie Slave Indians, having been driven from 
their original country by their enemies, the Kniste- 
neaux, along the borders of this part of the river, it 
received that title, though it by no means involves 
the idea of servitude, but was given to these fugi- 
tives as a term of reproach, that denoted more than 
common savageness. 

195 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

two miles, West by Korth six miles, North 
one mile, North-East by East two miles. 
North, one mile. We now descended a rapid, 
and proceeded North- West seven miles and a 
half. North- West nine miles. North by West 
six miles, North-West by West one mile and 
a half, North-West by North half a mile, 
North-North-West six miles. North one mile, 
North-West by West four miles, North- 
North-East one mile. Here we arrived at the 
mouth of the Dog Eiver, where we landed, 
and unloaded our canoes, at half past seven 
in the evening, on the East side, and close by 
the rapids. At this station the river is near 
two leagues in breadth. 

Friday, 5. — At three o'clock in the morn- 
ing we embarked, but unloaded our canoes at 
the first rapid. When we had reloaded, we 
entered a small channel, which is formed by 
the islands, and, in about half an hour, we 
came to the carrying-place It is three hun- 
dred and eighty paces in length, and very 
commodious, except at the further end of it. 
We found seme difficulty in reloading at this 
spot, from the large quantity of ice which 
had not yet thawed. From hence to the next 
carrying-place, called the Fortarje d' Emhar- 
ras, is about six miles, and is occasioned by 
the drift wood filling up the small channel, 
which is one thousand and twenty paces in 
length J from hence to the next is one mile 
196 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

and a half, while the distance to that which 
succeeds, does not exceed one hundred and 
fifty yards. It is about the same length as 
the last; and from hence to the carrying- 
place called the Mountain, is about four miles 
further; when we entered the great river. 
The smaller one, or the channel, affords by 
far the best passage, as it is without hazard 
of any kind; though I believe a shorter 
course Avould be found on the outside of the 
islands, and without so many carrying-places. 
That called the Mountain is three hundred 
and thirty -five paces in length ; from thence 
to the next, named the Pelican, there is about 
a mile of dangerous rapids. The landing is 
very steep, and close to the fall. The length 
of this carrying-place is eight hundred and 
twenty paces. 

The whole of the party were now employed 
in taking the baggage and the canoe up the 
hill. One of the Indian canoes went down 
the fall, and was dashed to pieces. The 
woman who had the management of it, by 
quitting it in time, preserved her life, though 
she lost the little property it contained. 

The course from the place we quitted in the 
morning is about North-West, and compre- 
hends a distance of fifteen miles. From hence 
to the next and last carrying-place, is about 
nine miles ; in which distance there are three 
rapids: course North-West by West. The 
197 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TPIROUGH THE 

carrying path is very bad, and five hundred 
and thirty-five paces in length. Our canoes 
being lightened, passed on the outside of the 
opposite island, which rendered the carrying 
of the baggage very short indeed, being not 
more than the length of a canoe. In the 
year 1786, five men were drowned, and two 
canoes and some packages lost, in the rapids 
on the other side of the river, which occa- 
sioned this place to be called the Fortage des 
Noyes. They were proceeding to the Slave 
Lake, in the fall of that year, under the di- 
rection of Mr. Cuthbert Grant. We pro- 
ceeded from hence six miles, and encamped 
on Point de Eoche, at half past five in the 
afternoon. The men and Indians were very 
much fatigued ; but the hunters had provided 
seven geese, a beaver, and four ducks. 

Saturday, 6. — We embarked at half past 
two in the morning, and steered North-West 
by North twenty-one miles, North-West by 
West five miles, West-North- West four miles. 
West six miles, doubled a point North- 
North-East one mile. East five miles, North 
two miles, North-West by North one mile 
and a half, West-North- West three miles, 
North-East by East two miles; doubled a 
point one mile and a half. West by North 
nine miles, North-West by West six miles^ 
North-North-West five miles ; here we landed 
at six o'clock in the evening, unloaded, and 
198 



KORTH WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

encamped. Nets were also set in a small ad- 
jacent river. We had an head wind during 
the greater part of the day and the weather 
was become so cold that the Indians were 
•obliged to make use of their mittens. In this 
day's progress we killed seven geese and six 
ducks. 

Sunday, 7. — At half past three we renewed 
our voyage, and proceeded West-North-West 
one mile, round an island one mile, North- 
West two miles and a half. South by West 
three miles, West-South- West one mile, 
South- West by South half a mile, North- 
West three miles, West-North- West three 
miles and a half. North seven miles and a 
half. North- West by North four miles. North 
two miles and a half, North- West by North 
two miles. The rain, which had prevailed 
for some time, now came on with such vio- 
lence, that we were obliged to land and un- 
load, to prevent the goods and baggage from 
getting wet; the weather, however, soon 
cleared up, so that w^e reloaded the canoe, 
and got under way. We now continued our 
course North ten miles. West one mile and a 
half, and North one mile and a half, when 
the rain came on again, and rendered it abso- 
lutely necessary for us to get on shore for the 
night, at about half past three. We had a 
strong North-North-East wind throughout 
the day, which greatly impeded us; M. Le 
199 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

Eoux, however, with his party, passed on in 
search of a landing place more agreeable to 
them. The Indians killed a couple of geese, 
and as many dncks. The rain continued 
through the remaining part of the day. 

Monday, 8. — The night was very boister- 
ous, and the rain did not cease till two in the 
afternoon of this day ; but as the wind did 
not abate of its violence, we were prevented 
from proceeding till the morrow. 

Tuesday, 9. — We embarked at half past 
two in the morning, the weather being calm 
and foggy. Soon after our two young men 
joined us, whom we had not seen for two 
days ; but during their absence they had killed 
four beavers and ten geese. After a course 
of one mile North-West by North, we ob- 
served an opening on the right, which we took 
for a fork of the river, but it proved to be a 
lake. We returned and steered South-West 
by West one mile and a half, West-South- 
West one mile and a half. West one mile, 
when we entered a very small branch of the 
river on the East bank; at the mouth of 
which I was informed there had been a carry- 
ing-place, owing to the quantity of drift 
wood, which then filled up the passage, but 
has since been carried away. The course of 
this river is meandering, and tends to the 
North, and in about ten miles falls into the 
Slave Lake, where we arrived at nine in the 
200 



NORTHWEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

moraing, when we found a great change in 
the weather, as it was become extremely cold. 
The lake was entirely covered with ice, and 
did not seem in any degree to have given 
way, but near the shore. The gnats and 
mosquitoes, which were very troublesome 
during our passage along the river, did not 
venture to accompany us to this colder region. 

The banks of the river both above and be- 
low the rapids, were on both sides covered 
with the various kinds of wood common to 
this country, particularly the Western side ; 
the land being lower and consisting of a rich 
black soil. This artificial ground is carried 
down by the stream, and rests upon drift 
wood, so as to be eight or ten feet deep. 
The eastern banks are more elevated, and the 
soil a yellow clay mixed with gravel ; so that 
the trees are neither so large or numerous as 
on the opposite shore. The ground was not 
thawed above fourteen inches in depth ; not- 
withstanding the leaf was at its full growth ; 
while along the lake there was scarcely any 
appearance of verdure. 

The Indians informed me, that, at a very 
small distance from either bank of the river, 
are very extensive plains, frequented by large 
herds of buffaloes ; while the moose and rein- 
deer keep in the woods that border on it. 
The beavers, which are in great numbers, 
build their habitations in the small lakes and 
201 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

rivers, as, in the larger streams, the ice car^ 
ries every thing along with it, during tha 
spring. The mud-banks in the river are cov- 
ered with wild fowl; and we this morning 
killed two swans, ten geese, and one beaver, 
without suffering the delay of an hour; so 
that we might have soon filled the canoe with 
them, if that had been our object. 

From the small river we steered East, 
along the inside of a long sand-bank, covered 
with drift wood and enlivened by a few wil~ 
lows, which stretches on as far as the houses 
erected by Messrs. Grant and Le Roux, in 
1786. We often ran aground, as for five 
successive miles the depth of the water no~ 
where exceeded three feet. There we found 
our people, who had arrived early in the 
morning, and whom we had not seen since the 
preceding Sunday. We now unloaded the 
canoe, and pitched our tents, as there was 
every appearance that we should be obliged 
to remain here for some time. I then ordered 
the nets to be set, as it was absolutely neces- 
sary that the stores provided for our future 
voyage should remain untouched. The fish 
we now caught were carp, poisson inconnu, 
white fish, and trout. 

Wednesday, 10. — It rained during the great- 
est part of the preceding night, and the 
weather did not clear up till the afternoon of 
this day. This circumstance had very much 
202 



ISrORTH WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

"weakened tlie ice, and I sent two of the In- 
dians on an hunting party to a lake at the 
•distance of nine miles, which, they informed 
me, was frequented by animals of various 
kinds. Our fishery this day was not so 
abundant as it had been on the preceding 
afternoon. 

Thursday, 11. — The weather was fine and 
clear with a strong westerly wind. The 
women were employed in gathering berries of 
different sorts, of which there are a great 
plenty ; and I accompanied one of my people 
to a small adjacent island, where we picked 
up some dozens of swan, geese, and duck- 
eggs ; we also killed a couple of ducks and a 
goose. 

In the evening the Indians returned, with- 
out having see any of the larger animals. A 
swan and a grey crane were the only fruits of 
their expedition. We caught no other fish 
but a small quantity of pike, which is too 
common to be a favourite food with the peo- 
ple of the country. The ice moved a little to 
the eastward. 

Friday y 12. — The weather continued the 
same as yesterday, and the mosquitoes began 
to visit us in great numbers. The ice moved 
again in the same direction, and I ascended 
an hill, but could not perceive that it was 
broken in the middle of the lake. The hunt- 
ers killed a goose and three ducks. 
203 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

Saturday, 13. — The weather was cloudy, 
and the wind changeable till about sunset, 
when it settled in the North. It drove back 
the ice which was now very much broken 
along the shore, and covered our nets. One 
of the hunters who had been at the Slave 
Kiver the preceding evening, returned with 
three beavers and fourteen geese. He was 
accompanied by three families of Indians, 
who left Athabasca the same day as myself : 
they did not bring me any fowl ; and they 
pleaded in excuse, that they had travelled 
with so much expedition, as to prevent them 
from procuring sufficient provisions for them- 
selves. By a meridian line, I found the 
variation of the compass to be about twenty 
degrees East. 

Sunday, IJ/.. — The weather was clear and 
the wind remained in the same quarter. The 
ice was much broken, and driven to the side 
of the lake, so that we were apprehensive for 
the loss of our nets, as they could not, at 
present, be extricated. At sunset there was 
an appearance of a violent gust of wind 
from the southward, as the sky became on a 
sudden, in that quarter, of a very dusky blue 
colour, and the lightning was very frequent. 
But instead of wind there came on a very 
heavy rain, which promised to diminish the 
quantity of broken ice. 

Monday f 15. — In the morning, the bay still 
204 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

continued to be so full of ice, that we could 
not get at our nets. About noon, the wind 
veered to the Westward, and not only uncov- 
ered the nets, but cleared a passage to the 
opposite islands. When Ave raised the nets 
we found them very much shattered, and but 
few fish taken. We now struck our tents, 
and embarked at sunset, when we made the 
traverse, which was about eight miles North- 
East by North, in about two hours. At half- 
past eleven P. M. we landed on a small 
island and proceed to gum the canoe. At 
this time the atmosphere was sufficiently 
clear to admit of reading or writing without 
the aid of artificial light. We had not seen 
a star since the second day after we left 
Athabasca. About twelve o'clock, the moon 
made its appearance above the tops of the 
trees, the lower horn being in a state of 
eclipse, which continued for about six min- 
utes, in a cloudless sky. 

I took soundings three times in the course 
of the traverse, when I found six fathoms 
water, with a muddy bottom. 

Tuesday, 16. — We were prevented from 
embarking this morning by a very strong 
wind from the North, and the vast quantity 
of floating ice. Some trout were caught with 
the hook and line, but the net was not so 
successful. I had an observation which gave 
61. 28. :N"orth latitude. 
205 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

The wind becoming moderate, we embarked 
about one, taking a North- West course, 
through islands of ten miles, in which we 
took in a considerable quantity of water. 
After making several traverses, we landed at 
five P. M., and having pitched our tents, the- 
hooks, lines, and nets were immediately set. 
During the course of the day there was occa~ 
sional thunder. 

Wednesday y 17. — We proceeded, and talv~ 
ing up our nets as we passed, we found na 
more than seventeen fish, and were stopped 
within a mile by the ice. The Indians, how^ 
ever, brought us back to a point where our 
fishery was very successful. They proceeded 
also on a hunting party, as well as to dis- 
cover a passage among the islands; but at 
three in the afternoon they returned without 
having succeeded in either object. We 
were, however, in expectation, that, as the 
wind blew very strong, it would force a 
passage. About sunset, the weather be- 
came overcast, with thunder, lightning, and 
rain. 

Thursday, 18. — The nets were taken up at 
four this morning with abundance of fish, and 
we steered North- West four miles, where the 
ice again prevented our progress. A South- 
East wind drove it among the islands, in 
such a manner as to impede our passage, and 
we could perceive at some distance ahead, 
206 



NORTH WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA 

that it was but little broken. We now set 
our nets in four fathom water. Two of our 
hunters had killed a rein-deer and its fawn. 
They had met with two Indian families, and 
in the evening, a man belonging to one of 
them, paid us a visit ; he informed me, that 
the ice had not stirred on the side of the 
island opposite to us. These people live 
entirely on fish, and were waiting to cross 
the lake as soon as it should be clear of 
ice. 

Friday, 19. — This morning our nets were 
unproductive, as they yielded us no more 
than six fish, which were of a very bad kind. 
In the forenoon, the Indians proceeded to the 
large island opposite to us, in search of game. 
The weather was cloudy, and the wind 
changeable ; at the same time, we were pes- 
tered by mosquitoes, though, in a great meas- 
ure, surrounded with ice. 

Saturday, 20. — We took up our nets, but 
without any fish. It rained very hard during 
the night and this morning : nevertheless, M. 
Le Roux and his people went back to the 
point which we had quitted on the 18th, but 
I did not think it prudent to move As I was 
watching for a passage through the ice, I 
promised to send for them when I could ob- 
tain it. It rained at intervals till about five 
o'clock; when we loaded our canoe, and 
steered for the large island, West six miles 
207 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

When we came to the point of it, we found a 
great quantity of ice ; we, however, set our 
nets, and soon caught plenty of fish. In our 
way thither we met our hunters, but they 
had taken nothing. I took soundings at an 
hundred yards from the island, when we were 
in twenty-one fathom water. Here we found 
abundance of cranberries and small spring 
onions. I now despatched two men for M. 
Le Eoux, and his people. 

Sunday J 21. — A Southerly wind blew 
through the night, and drove the ice to the 
Northward. The two men whom I had sent 
to M. Le Eoux, returned at eight this morn- 
ing ; they parted with him at a small distance 
from us, but the wind blew so hard, that he 
was obliged to put to shore. Having a 
glimpse of the sun, when it was twelve by 
my watch, I found the latitude 61. 34. 
North latitude. At two in the afternoon, M. 
Le Roux and his people arrived. At five, 
the ice being almost all driven past to the 
Northward, we accordingly embarked, and 
steered West fifteen miles, through much 
broken ice, and on the outside of the islands, 
though it appeared to be very solid to the 
North-East. I sounded three times in this 
distance, and found it seventy-five, forty-four, 
and sixty fathom water. We pitched our 
tents on one of a cluster of small islands that 
were within three miles of the main land, 
208 



NORTH WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

which we could not reach in consequence of 
the ice. 

We saw some rein-deer on one of these 
islands, and our hunters went in pursuit of 
them, when they killed five large and two 
small ones, which was easily accomplished, 
as the animals had no shelter to which they 
could run for protection. They had, without 
doubt, crossed the ice to this spot, and the 
thaw coming on had detained them there, 
and made them an easy prey to the pursuer. 
This island was accordingly named Isle de 
Carreboeuf. 

I sat up the whole of this night to observe 
the setting and rising of the sun. That orb 
was beneath the horizon four hours twenty- 
two minutes, and rose North 20. East by 
compass. It, however, froze so hard, that, 
during the sun's disappearance, the water 
was covered with ice half a quarter of an 
inch thick. 

Monday, 22. — We embarked at half past 
three in the morning, and rounding the out- 
side of the islands, steered North- West thir- 
teen miles along the ice, edging in for the 
main land, the wind West, then West two 
miles ; but it blew so hard as to oblige us to 
land on an island at half past nine, from 
whence we could just distinguish land to the 
South-East, at the distance of about twelve 
leagues; though we could not determine 
14 209 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

whether it was a continuation of the islands, 
or the shores of the lake.* I took an observ- 
ation at noon, which gave me 61. 53. Korth, 
the variation of the compass being, at the 
same time, about two points. M. Le Roux's 
people having provided two bags of jpem- 
mican-f to be left in the island against their 
return ; it was called Isle a la Cache. 

The wind being moderated, we proceeded 
again at half past two in the afternoon, and 
steering West by North among the islands, 
made a course of eighteen miles. We en- 
camped at eight o'clock on a small island, 
and since eight in the morning had not passed 
any ice. Though the weather was far from 
being warm, we were tormented, and our rest 
interrupted, by the host of mosquitoes that 
accompanied us. 

* Sometimes the land looms, so that there may be 
a great deception as to the distance ; and I think this 
was the case at present. 

f Flesh dried in the sun, and afterwards pounded 
for the convenience of carriage. 



210 



KORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 



CHAPTEH II. 

JUKE, 1789. 

Tuesday, 23. — Towards morning, the In- 
dians wlio had not been able to keep up with 
us the preceding day, now joined us, and 
brought two swans and a goose. At half past 
three we re-embarked, and steering West by 
North a mile and an half, with a Northerly 
wind, we came to the foot of a traverse across 
a deep bay. West five miles, which receives a 
considerable river at the bottom of it; the 
distance about twelve miles. The North- 
West side of the bay was covered with many 
small islands that were surrounded with ice ; 
but the wind driving it a little off the land, 
we had a clear passage on the inside of them. 
We steered South- West nine miles under sail, 
then North- West nearly, through the islands, 
forming a course of sixteen miles. We landed 
on the main land at half past two in the aft- 
ernoon at three lodges of Ked-Knife Indians, 
so called from their copper knives. They 
informed us, that there were many more 
lodges of their friends at no great distance ; 
and one of the Indians set off to fetch them : 
they also said, that we should see no more of 
them at present j as the Slave and Beaver In- 
211 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

dians, as well as others of the tribe, would 
not be here till the time that the swans cast 
their feathers. In the afternoon it rained a 
torrent. 

Wednesday, 24- — M. Le Eoux purchase<? 
of these Indians upwards of eight packs of 
good beaver and marten skins; and there 
were not above twelve of them qualified to 
kill beaver. The English chief got upwards 
of an hundred skins on the score of debts due 
to him, of which he had many outstanding 
in this country. Forty of them he gave on 
account of debts due by him since the winters 
of 1786 and 1787, at the Slave Lake; the 
rest he exchanged for rum and other neces- 
sary articles ; and I added a small quantity 
of that liquor as an encouraging present to 
him and his young men. I had several con- 
sultations with these Copper Indian people, 
but could obtain no information that was ma- 
terial to our expedition ; nor were they ac- 
quainted with any part of the river, which 
was the object of my research, but the mouth 
of it. In order to save as much time as pos- 
sible in circumnavigating the bays, I engaged 
one of the Indians to conduct us ; and I ac- 
cordingly equipped him with various articles 
of clothing, etc. I also purchased a large 
new canoe, that he might embark with the 
two young Indians in my service. 

This day, at noon, I took an observation, 
212 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

which gave me 62. 24. North latitude; 
the variation of the compass being about 
twenty-six or twenty-seven degrees to the 
East. 

In the afternoon I assembled the Indians, 
in order to inform them that I should take 
my departure on the following day ; but that 
people would remain on the spot till their 
countrymen, whom they had mentioned, 
should arrive; and that, if they brought a 
sufficient quantity of skins to make it answer, 
the Canadians would return for more goods, 
with a view to winter here, and build a fort,* 
which would be continued as long as they 
should be found to deserve it. They assured 
me that it would be a great encouragement to 
them to have a settlement of ours in their 
country; and that they should exert them- 
selves to the utmost to kill beaver, as they 
would then be certain of getting an adequate 
value for them. Hitherto, they said, the 
Chepewyans always pillaged them; or, at 
most, gave little or nothing for the fruits of 
their labour, which had greatly discouraged 
them; and that, in consequence of this treat- 
ment, they had no motive to pursue the 
beaver, but to obtain a sufficient quantity of 
food and raiment. 

I now wrote to Messrs. Macleod and Mac- 

*Fort is the name given to any establishment in 
this comitry. 

213 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

kenzie, and addressed my papers to the 
former, at Athabasca. 

Thursday y 25. — We left this place at three 
this morning, our canoe being deeply laden, 
as we had embarked some packages that had 
come in the canoes of M. Le Roux. We 
were saluted on our departure with some vol- 
leys of small arms, which we returned, and 
steered South by West straight across the 
bay, which is here no more than two miles 
and a half broad, but, from the accounts of 
the natives, it is fifteen leagues in depth, 
with a much greater breadth in several parts, 
and full of islands. I sounded in the course 
of the traverse and found six fathoms with a 
sandy bottom. Here, the land has a very 
different appearance from that on which we 
have been since we entered the lake. Till 
we arrived here there was one continued view 
of high hills and islands of solid rock, whose 
surface was occasionally enlivened with moss, 
shrubs, and a few scattered trees, of a very 
stinted growth, from an insufficiency of soil 
to nourish them. But, notwithstanding their 
barren appearance, almost every part of them 
produces berries of various kinds, such as 
cranberries, juniper berries, raspberries, par- 
tridge berries, gooseberries, and the pathe- 
gomenan, which is something like a raspberry ; 
it grows on a small stalk about a foot and a 
half high, in wet, mossy spots. These fruits 
214 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

are in great abundance, though they are not 
to be found in the same places, but in situa- 
tions and aspects suited to their peculiar na- 
tures. 

The land which borders the lake in this 
part is loose and sandy, but is well covered 
with wood, composed of trees of a larger 
growth: it gradually rises from the shore, 
and at some distance forms a ridge of high 
land running along the coast, thick with 
wood and a rocky summit rising above it. 

We steered South-South-East nine miles, 
when we were very much interrupted by 
drifting ice, and with some difficulty reached 
an island, where we landed at seven. I im- 
mediately proceeded to the further part of it, 
in order to discover if there was any proba- 
bility of our being able to get from thence 
in the course of the day. It is about five 
miles in circumference, and I was very much 
surprised to find that the greater part of the 
wood with which it was formerly covered, 
had been cut down within twelve or fifteen 
years, and that the remaining stumps were 
become altogether rotten. On making in- 
quiry concerning the cause of this extraor- 
dinary circumstance, the English chief in- 
formed me, that several winters ago, many of 
the Slave Indians inhabited the islands that 
were scattered over the bay, as the surround- 
ing waters abound with fish throughout the 
215 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TPIROUGH THE 

year, but that they had been driven away 
by the Knisteneaux, who contmually made 
war upon them. If an establishment is to be 
made in this country, it must be in the neigh- 
bourhood of this place, on account of the 
wood and fishery. 

At eleven we ventured to re-embark, as the 
wind had driven the greatest part of the ice 
past the island, though we still had to en- 
counter some broken pieces of it, which 
threatened to damage our canoe. We steered 
South-East from point to point across five 
bays, twenty-one miles. We took soundings 
several times, and found from six to ten 
fathom water. I observed that the country 
gradually descended inland, and was still 
better covered with wood than in the higher 
parts. — Wherever we approached the land, 
we perceived deserted lodges. The hunters 
killed two swans and a beaver; and at length 
we landed at eight o'clock in the evening, 
when we unloaded and gummed our canoe. 

Friday, 26. — We continued our route at 
five o'clock, steering South-East for ten miles 
across two deep bays; then South-South- 
East, with islands in sight to the Eastward. 
We then traversed another bay in a course of 
three miles, then South one mile to a point 
which we named the Detour, and South-South- 
West four miles and an half, when there was 
an heavy swell of the lake. Here I took an 
216 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

observation, when we were in 61 40. North 
latitude We then proceeded South-West 
four miles, and West-South- West among 
islands : on one of which our Indians killed 
two rein-deer, but we lost three hours aft 
wind in going for them : this course was nine 
miles. About seven in the evening we were 
obliged to land for the night, as the wind be- 
came too strong from the South-East. We 
thought we could observe land in this direc- 
tion when the wind was coming on from sonic 
distance. On the other side of the Detour, 
the land is low, and the shore is fiat and dan- 
gerous, there being no safe place to land in 
bad weather, except in the islands which we 
had just passed. There seemed to be plenty 
of moose and rein-deer in this country, as we 
saw their tracks wherever we landed. There 
are also great numbers of white partridges, 
which were at this season of a grey colour, 
like that of the moor-fowl. There was some 
floating ice in the lake, and the Indians killed 
a couple of swans. 

Saturday, 27. — At three this morning we 
were in the canoe, after having passed a very 
restless night from the persecution of the 
mosquitoes The weather was fine and calm, 
and our course West-South-West nine miles, 
when we came to the foot of a traverse, the 
opposite i)oint in sight bearing South-West, 
distance twelve miles. The bay is at least 
217 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

eight miles deep, and this course two miles 
more, in all ten miles. It now became very 
foggy, and as the bays were so numerous, we 
landed for two hours, when the weather 
cleared up, and we took the advantage of 
steering South thirteen miles, and passed 
several small bays, when we came to the 
point of a very deep one, whose extremity 
was not discernible ; the land bearing South 
from us, at the distance of about ten miles. 
Our guide not having been here for eight 
winters, was at a loss what course to take, 
though as well as he could recollect, this bay 
appeared to be the entrance of the river. 
Accordingly, we steered down it, about West- 
South-West, till we were involved in a field 
of broken ice. We still could not discover 
the bottom of the bay, and a fog coming on, 
made it very difficult for us to get to an 
island to the South-West, and it was nearly 
dark when we effected a landing 

Sunday, 28. — At a quarter past three we 
were again on the water, and as we could 
perceive no current setting into this bay, we 
made the best of our way to the point that 
bore South from us yesterday afternoon. We 
continued our course South three miles more, 
South by West seven miles. West fifteen 
miles, when by observation we were in 61 de- 
grees North latitude; we then proceeded 
West-North- West two miles. Here we came 
218 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

to the foot of a traverse, the opposite land 
bearing South-West, distance fourteen miles, 
when we steered into a deep bay, about a 
westerly course ; and though we had no land 
ahead in sight, we indulged the hope of find- 
ing a passage, which, according to the Indian, 
would conduct us to the entrance of the river. 
Having a strong wind aft, we lost sight of 
the Indians, nor could we put on shore to 
wait for them, without risking material dam- 
age to the canoe, till we ran to the bottom of 
the bay, and were forced among the rushes; 
when we discovered that there was no pas- 
sage there. In about two or three hours they 
joined us, but would not approach our fire, 
as there was no good ground for an encamp- 
ment : they emptied their canoe of the water 
which it had taken in, and continued their 
route, but did not encamp till sunset The 
English chief was very much irritated against 
the Red-Knife Indian, and even threatened 
to murder him, for having undertaken to 
guide us in a course of which he was ignorant ; 
nor had we any reason to be satisfied with 
him, though he still continued to encourage 
us, by declaring that he recollected having 
passed from the river, through the woods, to 
the place where he had landed. In the blow- 
ing weather to-day, we were obliged to make 
use of our large kettle, to keep our canoe 
from filling, although we did not carry above 
219 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

three feet sail. The Indians very narrowly 
escaped. 

Monday, 29. — We embarked at four this 
morning, and steered along the South- West 
side of the bay. At half past live we reached 
the extremity of the point, which we doubled, 
and found it to be the branch or passage that 
was the object of our search, and occasioned 
by a very long island, which separates it 
from the main channel of the river. It is 
about half a mile across, and not more than 
six feet in depth; the water appeared to 
abound in fish, and was covered with fowl, 
such as swans, geese, and several kinds of 
ducks, particularly black ducks, that were 
very numerous, but we could not get within 
gun shot of them. 

The current, though not very strong, set us 
South-West by West, and we followed this 
course fourteen miles, till we passed the point 
of the long island, where the Slave Lake dis- 
charges itself, and is ten miles in breadth. 
There is not more than from five to two 
fathom water, so that when the lake is low, 
it may be presumed the greatest part of this 
channel must be dry. The river now turns 
to the Westward, becoming gradually nar- 
rower for twenty-four miles, till it is not 
more than half a mile wide; the current, 
however, is then much stronger, and the 
sounding were three fathom and a half. The 
220 



NOKTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

land on the North shore from the Idke is low, 
and covered with trees ; that to the South is 
much higher, and has also an abundance of 
wood. The current is very strong, and the 
banks are of an equal height on both sides, 
consisting of a yellow clay, mixed with small 
stones ; they are covered with large quanti- 
ties of burned wood, lying on the ground, 
and young poplar trees, that have sprung up 
since the fire that destroyed the larger wood. 
It is a very curious and extraordinary circum- 
stance, that land covered with spruce pine, 
and white birch, when laid waste by fire, 
should subsequently produce nothing but 
poplars, where none of that species of tree 
were previously to be found. 

A stiff breeze from the Eastward drove us 
on at a great rate under sail, in the same 
course, though obliged to wind among the 
islands. We kept the North channel for 
about ten miles, Avhose current is much 
stronger than that of the South ; so that the 
latter is consequently the better road to come 
up. Here the river widened, and the wind 
dying away, we had recourse to our paddies. 
We kept our course to the North-West, ou 
the North side of the river, which is here 
much wider, and assumes the form of a small 
lake; we could not, however, discover an 
opening in any direction, so that we were at 
a loss what course to take, as our Red-Knife 
221 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

Indian had never explored beyond our present 
situation. He at the same time informed us 
that a river falls in from the North, which 
takes its rise in the Horn Mountain, now in 
sight, which is the country of the Beaver In- 
dians; and that he and his relations fre- 
quently meet on that river. He also added, 
that there are very extensive plains on both 
sides of it, which abound in buffaloes and 
moose deer. 

By keeping this course, we got into shal- 
lows, so that we were forced to steer to tlie 
left, till we recovered deep water, which we 
followed till the channel of the river opened 
on us to the southward, we now made for the 
shore, and encamped soon after sunset. Our 
course ought to have been West fifteen miles, 
since we took to the paddle, the Horn Moun- 
tains bearing from us North-West, and run- 
ning North-North-East and South-South- 
West. Our soundings, which were frequent 
during the course of the day, were from three 
to six fathoms water. The hunters killed 
two geese and a swan : it appeared, indeed, 
that great numbers of fowls breed in the 
islands which we had passed. 

Tuesday, 30. — At four this morning we got 
under way, the weather being fine and calm. 
Our course was South -West by South thirty- 
six miles. On the South side of the river is 
a ridge of low mountains, running East and 
222 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

West by compass. The Indians picked up a 
white goose, which appeared to have been 
lately shot with an arrow, and was quite 
fresh. We proceeded South-West by South 
six miles, and then came to a bay on our left, 
which is full of small islands, and appeared 
to be the entrance of a river from the South. 
Here the ridge of mountains terminates. 
This course was fifteen miles. 

At six in the afternoon there was an ap- 
pearance of bad weather; we landed there- 
fore, for the night ; but before we could pitch 
our tents, a violent tempest came on, with 
thunder, lightning, and rain, which, however, 
soon ceased, but not before we had suffered 
the inconvenience of being drenched by it. 
The Indians were very much fatigued, having 
been employed in running after wild fowl, 
which had lately cast their feathers; they, 
however, caught five swans, and the same 
number of geese. I sounded several times 
in the course of the day, and found from four 
to six fathoms water. 



223 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 



CHAPTER III. 

JULY, 1789. 

Wednesday y 1, At half past four in the 
morning we continued our voyage, and in a 
short time found the river narrowed to about 
half a mile. Our course was Westerly among 
islands, with a strong current. Though the 
land is high on both sides, the banks are not 
perpendicular. This course was twenty-one 
miles ; and on sounding we found nine fathoms 
water. We then proceeded West-North- West 
nine miles, and passed a river upon the 
South-East side; we sounded, and found 
twelve fathoms; and then we went North- 
West by West three miles. Here I lost my 
lead, Avhich had fastened at the bottom, Avith 
part of the line, the current running so strong 
that we could not clear \ ; with eight paddles, 
and the strength of the line, which was equal 
to four paddles. Continued North ^ rj West 
five miles, and saw a high mountain, bearing 
South from us; we then proceeded North- 
West by North four miles. We now passed 
a small river on the North side, then doubled 
a point to West-South-West. At one o'clock 
there came on lightnmg and thunder, with 
wind and rain, which ceased in about half an 
224 



Is^ORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

hour, and left us almost deluged with wet, as 
we did not land. There were great quantities 
of ice along the banks of the river. 

We landed upon a small island, where there 
were the poles of four lodges standing, which 
we concluded to have belonged to the Kniste- 
neaux, on their war excursions, six or seven 
years ago. This course was fifteen miles 
West, to where the river of the Mountain 
falls in from the Southward. It appears to 
be a very large river, whose mouth is half a 
mile broad. About six miles further a small 
river flows in the same direction; and our 
whole course was twenty -four miles. We 
landed opposite to an island, the mountains 
to the Southward being in sight. As our 
canoe was deeply laden, and being also in 
daily expectation of coming to the rapids or 
falls, which we had been taught to consider 
with apprehension, we concealed two bags of 
pemmican in the opposite island, in the hope 
that they would be of future service to us. 
The Indians were of a different opinion, as 
they entertained no expectation of returning 
that season, when the hidden provisions 
would be spoiled. Near us were two Indian 
encampments of the last year. By the man- 
ner in which these people cut their wood, it 
appears that they have no iron tools. The 
current was very strong during the whole of 
this day's voyage, and in the article of pro- 
15 225 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

visions two swans were all that the hunters 
were able to procure. 

Thursday, 2. — The morning was very 
foggy : but at half past five we embarked ; it 
cleared up, however, at seven, when we dis- 
covered that the water, from being very lim- 
pid and clear, was become dark and muddy. 
This alteration must have proceeded from the 
influx of some river to the Southward, but 
where these streams first blended their wa- 
ters, the fog had prevented us from observ- 
ing. At nine we perceived a very high moun- 
tain ahead, which appeared, on our nearer 
approach, to be rather a cluster of mountains, 
stretching as far as oui- view could reach to 
the Southward, and wh»^oe tops were lost in 
the clouds. At noon there was lightning, 
thunder, and rain, and at one, we came 
abreast of the mountains ; their summits ap- 
peared to be barren and rocky, but their de- 
clivities were covered with wood; they ap- 
peared also to be sprinkled with white stones, 
which glistened in the sun, and were called 
by the Indians vianetoe aseniah, or spirit 
stones. I suspected that thoy were Talc, 
though they possessed ^, more brilliant white- 
ness ; on our return, however, these appear- 
ances were dissolved, as they were nothing 
more than patches of snow. 

Our course had been West-South-West 
thirty miles and we proceeded with great 
226 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

caution, as we continually expected to ap- 
proach some great rapid or fall. This was 
such a prevalent idea, that all of us were oc- 
casionally persuaded that we heard those 
sounds which betokened a fall of water. Our 
course changed to West by North, along the 
mountains, twelve miles. North by West, 
twenty-one miles, and at eight o'clock in the 
evening, we went on shore for the night, on 
the North side of the river. We saw several 
encampments of the natives, some of which 
had been erected in the present spring, and 
others at some former period. The hunters 
killed only one swan and a beaver ; the latter 
was the first of its kind which we had seen 
in this river. The Indians complained of the 
perseverance with which we pushed forward, 
and that they were not accustomed to such 
severe fatigue as it occasioned. 

Friday, 3. — The rain was continual through 
the night, and did not subside till seven this 
morning, when we embarked and steered 
North-North- West for twelve miles, the river 
being enclosed by high mountains on either 
side. We had a strong head-wind, and the 
rain was so violent as to compel us to land at 
ten o'clock. According to my reckoning, 
since my last observation, we had run two 
hundred and seventeen miles West, and forty- 
four miles North. At a quarter past two the 
rain subsided, and we got again under way, 
227 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

our former course continuing for five miles. 
Here a river feU in from the North, and in a 
short time the current became strong and 
rapid, running with great rapidity among 
rocky islands, which were the first that we 
had seen in this river, and indicated our near 
approach to rapids and falls. Our present 
course was North- West by North ten miles, 
North- West three miles, West-North- West 
twelve miles, and North-West three miles, 
when we encamped at eight in the evening, at 
the foot of an high hill, on the North shore, 
which in some parts rose perpendicular from 
the river. I immediately ascended it, ac- 
companied by two men and some Indians, and 
in about an hour and an half, with very hard 
walking, we gained the summit, when I was 
very much surprised to find it crowned by an 
encampment. The Indians informed me, that 
it is the custom of the people who have no 
arms to choose these elevated spots for the 
places of their residence, as they can render 
them inaccessible to their enemies, particu- 
larly the Knisteneaux, of whom they are in 
continual dread. The prospect from this 
height was not so extensive as we expected, 
as it was terminated by a circular range of 
hills, of the same elevation as that on which 
we stood. The intervals between the hills 
were covered with small lakes, which were 
inhabited by great numbers of swans. We, 
228 



I^ORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

saw no trees but the pine and the birch, which 
were small in size and few in number. 

We were obliged to shorten our stay here, 
from the swarms of mosquitoes which at- 
tacked us on all sides and were, indeed, the 
only inhabitants of the place. We saw sev- 
eral encampments of the natives in the course 
of the day, but none of them were of this 
year's establishment. Since four in the after- 
noon the current had been so strong, that it 
was at length, in an actual ebullition, and 
produced an hissing noise like a kettle of 
water in a moderate state of boiling. The 
weather was now become extremely cold, 
which was the more sensibly felt, as it had 
been very sultry sometime before and since 
we had been in the river. 

Saturday, Jf. At five in the morning, the 
wind and weather having undergone no alter- 
ation from yesterday, we proceeded North- 
West by West twenty-two miles. North- West 
six miles, North-West by North four miles 
and West-North-West five miles; we then 
passed the mouth of a small river from the 
North, and after doubling a point, South- 
West one mile, we passed the influx of an- 
other river from the South. We then con- 
tinued our course North-North- West, with a 
mountain ahead, fifteen miles, when the open- 
ing of two rivers appeared opposite to each 
otlier : we then proceeded West four miles, 
229 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

and North-West thirteen miles. At eight 
in the evening, we encamped on an island. 
The current was as strong through the whole 
of this day as it had been the preceding after- 
noon ; nevertheless, a quantity of ice appeared 
along the banks of the river. The hunters 
killed a beaver and a goose, the former of 
which sunk before they could get to him : 
beavers, otters, bears, etc., if shot dead at 
once, remain like a bladder, but if there re- 
mains enough of life for them to struggle, 
they soon fill with water and go to the bot- 
tom. 

Sunday, 5. The sun set last night at fifty- 
three minutes past nine, by my watch, and 
rose at seven minutes before two this morn- 
iing : we embarked soon after, steering North- 
North- West, through islands for five miles, 
and West four miles. The river then in- 
creased in breadth, and the current began to 
slacken in a small degree ; after the continu- 
ation of our course, we perceived a ridge of 
high mountains before us, covered with snow. 
West-South-West ten miles, and at three- 
quarters past seven o'clock, we saw several 
smokes on the North shore, which we made 
every exertion to approach. As we drew 
nearer, we discovered the natives running 
about in great apparent confusion ; some were 
making to the woods, and others hurrying to 
their canoes. Our hunters landed before us, 
230 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

and addressed the few that had not escaped, 
in the Chipewyan language, which, so great 
was their confusion and terror, they did not 
appear to understand. But when they per- 
ceived that it was impossible to avoid us, as 
we were all landed, they made us signs to 
keep at a distance, with which we complied, 
and not only unloaded our canoe, but pitched 
our tents, before we made any attempt to ap- 
proach them. During this interval, the Eng- 
lish chief and his young men were employed 
in reconciling them to our arrival ; and when 
they had recovered from their alarm of hos- 
tile intention, it appeared that some of them 
perfectly comprehended the language of our 
Indians; so that they were at length per- 
suaded, though not without evident signs of 
reluctance and apprehension, to come to us. 
Their reception, however, soon dissipated 
their fears, and they hastened to call their 
fugitive companions from their hiding places. 
There were five families, consisting of 
twenty-five or thirty persons, and of two dif- 
ferent tribes, the Slave and Dog-rib Indians. 
We made them smoke, though it was evi- 
dent they did not know the use of tobacco ; 
we likewise supplied them with grog ; but I 
am disposed to think, that they accepted our 
civilities rather from fear than inclination. 
We acquired a more effectual influence over 
■^iiem by the distribution of knives, beads, 
231 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

awls, rings, gartering, fire-steels, flints, and 
hatchets ; so that they became more familiar 
even than we expected, for we could not keep 
them out of our tents : though I did not ob- 
serve that they attempted to purloin any- 
thing. 

The information which they gave respect- 
ing the river, had so much of the fabulous, 
that I shall not detail it : it will be sufficient 
just to mention their attempts to persuade 
us that it would require several winters to 
get to the sea, and that old age would come 
upon us before the period of our return : we 
were also to encounter monsters of such hor- 
rid shapes and destructive powers as could 
only exist in their wild imaginations. They 
added, besides, that there were two impass- 
able falls in the river, the first of which was 
about thirty days' march from us. 

Though I placed no faith in these strang-e 
relations, they had a very different effect 
upon our Indians, who were already tired of 
the voyage. It was their opinion and anx- 
ious wish, that we should not hesitate to re- 
turn. They said that, according to the in- 
formation which they had received, there 
were very few animals in the country beyond 
us, and that as we proceeded, the scarcity 
would increase, and we should absolutely 
perish from hunger, if no other accident be- 
fel us. It was with no small trouble that 
232 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

they were convinced of the folly of these 
reasonings ; and by my desire, they induced 
one of those Indians to accompany us, in 
consideration of a small kettle, an axe, a 
knife, and some other articles. 

Though it was now three o'clock in the 
afternoon, the canoe was ordered to be re- 
loaded, and as we were ready to embark our 
new recruit was desired to prepare himself 
for his departure, which he would have de- 
clined; but as none of his friends would take 
his place, we may be said, after the delay of 
an hour, to have compelled him to embark. 
Previous to his departure a ceremony took 
place, of which I could not learn the mean- 
ing ; he cut off a lock of his hair, and having 
divided it into three parts, he fastened one of 
them to the hair on the upper part of his 
wife's head, blowing on it three times with 
the utmost violence in his power, and utter- 
ing certain words. The other two he fastened 
with the same formalities, on the heads of 
his two children. 

During our short stay with these people, 
they amused us with dancing, which they 
accompanied with their voices: but neither 
their song or their dance possessed much 
variety. The men and women formed a pro- 
miscuous ring. The former have a bone dag- 
ger or piece of stick between the fingers of 
the right hand, which they keep extended 
233 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

above the head, in continual motion : the 
left they seldom raise so high, but work it 
backwards and forwards in a horizontal di- 
rection; while they leap about and throw 
themselves into various antic postures, to the 
measure of their music, always bringing their 
heels close to each other at every pause. The 
men occasionally howl in imitation of some 
animal, and he who continues this violent 
exercise for the longest period, appears to be 
considered as the best performer. The women 
suffer their arms to hang as without the 
power of motion. They are a meagre, ugly, 
ill-made people, particularly about the legs, 
which are very clumsy and covered with 
scabs. The latter circumstance proceeds 
probably from their habitually roasting them 
before the fire. Many of them appeared to 
be in a very unhealthy state, which is owing, 
as I imagine, to their natural filthiness. They 
are of a moderate stature, and as far as could 
be discovered, through the coat of dirt and 
grease that covers them, are of a fairer com- 
plexion than the generality of Indians who 
are the natives of warmer climates. 

Some of them have their hair of a great 
length; while others suffer a long tress to 
fall behind, and the rest is cut so short as to 
expose their ears, but no other attention 
whatever is paid to it. The beards of some 
of the old men were long, and the rest had 
234 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

them pulled out by the roots so that not a 
hair could be seen on their chins. The men 
have two double lines, either black or blue, 
tattooed upon each cheek, from the ear to the 
nose. The gristle of the latter is perforated 
so as to admit a goose-quill or a small piece 
of wood to be passed through the orifice. 
Their clothing is made of the dressed skins of 
the rein or moose-deer, though more com- 
monly of the former. These they prepare in 
the hair for winter, and make shirts of both, 
which reach to the middle of their thighs. 
Some of them are decorated with an embroid- 
ery of very neat workmanship with porcupine 
quills and the hair of the moose, coloured 
red, black, yellow, and white. Their upper 
garments are sufficiently large to cover the 
whole body, with a fringe round the bottom, 
and are used both sleeping and awake. Their 
leggins come half way up the thigh, and are 
sewed to their shoes : they are embroidered 
round the ancle, and upon every seam. The 
dress of the women is the same as that of the 
men. The former have no covering on their 
private parts, except a tassel of leather which 
dangles from a small cord, as it appears, to 
keep off the flies, which would otherwise be 
very troublesome. Whether circumcision be 
practised among them, I cannot pretend to 
say, but the appearance of it was general 
among those whom I saw. 
235 



^ JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

Their ornaments consist of gorgets, brace- 
lets for the arms and wrists, made of wood, 
horn, or bone, belts, garters, and a kind of 
band to go round the head, composed of 
strips of leather of one inch and an half 
broad, embroidered with porcupine quills, 
and stuck round with the claws of bears or 
wild fowl inverted, to which are suspended a 
few short thongs of the skin of an animal 
that resembles the ermine, in the form of a 
tassel. Their cinctures and garters are formed 
of porcupine quills woven with sinews, in a 
style of peculiar skill and neatness : they 
have others of different materials, and more 
ordinary workmanship ; and to both they at- 
tach a long fringe of strings of leather, 
worked round with hair of various colours. 
Their mittens are also suspended from the 
neck in a position convenient for the recep- 
tion of the hands. 

Their lodges are of a very simple structure : 
a few poles supported by a fork, and forming 
a semicircle at the bottom, with some brancliv^s 
or a piece of bark as a covering, constitutes 
the whole of their native architecture. They 
build two of these huts facing each other, and 
make the fire between them. The furniture 
harmonises with the buildings : they have a 
few dishes of wood, bark, or horn ; the ves- 
sels in which they cook their victuals are in 
the shape of a gourd, narrow at the top and 
236 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

wide at the bottom, and of watape,*' fabri- 
cated in such a manner as to hold water, 
which is made to boil by putting a succession 
of red-hot stones into it. These vessels con- 
tain from two to six gallons. They have a 
number of small leather bags to hold their 
embroidered work, lines, and nets. They 
always keep a large quantity of the fibres of 
willow bark, which they work into thread on 
their thighs. Their nets are from three to 
forty fathoms in length, and from thirteen to 
thirtj^-six inches in depth. The short deep 
ones they set in the eddy current of rivers, 
and the long ones in the lakes. They like- 
wise make lines of the sinews of the rein-deer, 
and manufacture their hooks from wood, 
horn, or bone. Their arms and weapons for 
hunting, are bows and arrows, spears, dag- 
gers, and pogamagans, or clubs. The bows 
are about five or six feet in length, and the 
strings are of sinews or raw skins. The ar- 
rows are two feet and an half long, including 
the barb, which is variously formed of bone, 
horn, flint, iron, or copper, and are winged 
with three feathers. The pole of the spears 

* Watape is the name given to the divided roots 
of the spruce fir, which the natives weave into a de- 
gree of compactness that renders it capable of con- 
taining a fluid. The different parts of the bark 
canoes are also sewed together with this kind of fila- 
ment 

237 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

is about six feet in length, and pointed with a 
barbed bone of ten inches. With this weapon 
they strike the rein-deer in the water. The 
daggers are flat and sharp -pointed, about 
twelve inches long, and made of horn or bone. 
The pogamagon is made of the horn of the 
rein-deer, the branches being all cut off, ex- 
cept that which forms the extremity. This 
instrument is about two feet in length, and 
is employed to despatch their enemies in 
battle, and such animals as they catch in 
snares placed for that purpose. These are 
about three fathom long, and are made of the 
green skin of the rein or moose-deer, but in 
such small strips, that it requires from ten to 
thirty strands to make this cord, which is 
not thicker than a cod-line; and strong 
enough to resist any animal that can be en- 
tangled in it. Snares or nooses are also made 
of sinews to take lesser animals, such as 
hares and white partridges, which are very 
numerous. Their axes are manufactured of 
a piece of brown or grey stone from six to 
eight inches long, and two inches thick. The 
inside is flat, and the outside round and 
tapering to an edge, an inch wide. They are 
fastened by the middle with the flat side in- 
wards to a handle two feet long, with a cord 
of green, skin. This is the tool with which 
they split their wood, and we believe, the 
only one of its kind among them. They 
238 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

kindle fire, by striking together a piece of 
white or yellow pyrites and a flint stone, over 
a piece of touchwood. They are universally 
provided with a small bag containing these 
materials, so that they are in a continual 
state of preparation to produce fire. From 
the adjoining tribes, the Red-Knives and 
Chepewyans, they procure, in barter for 
marten skins and a few beaver, small pieces 
of iron, of which they manufacture knives, 
by fixing them at the end of a short stick, 
and with them and the beaver's teeth, they 
finish all their work. They keep them in a 
sheath hanging to their neck, which also con- 
tains their awls both of iron and horn. 

Their canoes are small, pointed at both 
ends, flat-bottomed and covered in the fore 
part. They are made of the bark of the 
birch-tree and fir-wood, but of so slight a con- 
struction, that the man whom one of these 
light vessels bears on the water, can, in re- 
turn, carry it over land without any diffi- 
culty. It is very seldom that more than one 
person embarks in them, nor are they capable 
of receiving more than two. The paddles 
are six feet long, one half of which is occu- 
pied by a blade of about eight inches wide. 
These people informed us, that we had passed 
large bodies of Indians who inhabit the moun- 
tains on the east side of the river. 

At four in the afternoon we embarked, and 
239 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

our Indian acquaintance promised to remain 
on the bank of the river till the fall, in case 
T7e should return. Our course was West- 
>'South-West, and we soon passed the Great- 
l^ear-Lake River, which is of a considerable 
depth, and a hundred yards wide : its water 
is clear, and has the greenish hue of the sea. 
We had not proceeded more than six miles 
when we were obliged to land for the night, 
in consequence of an heavy gust of wind, ac- 
companied with rain. We encamped beneath 
a rocky hill, on the top of which, according 
to the information of our guide, it blew a 
storm every day throughout the year. He 
found himself very uncomfortable in his new 
situation, and pretended that he was very ill, 
in order that he might be permitted to return 
to his relations. To prevent his escape it be- 
came necessary to keep a strict watch over 
him during the night. 

Monday f 6. — At three o'clock, in a very 
raw and cloudy morning, we embarked, and 
steered West-South- West four miles, West 
four miles, West-lSTorth-West five miles, 
West eighj miles. West by South, sixteen 
miles, West twenty-seven miles. South- West 
nine miles, then West six miles, and en- 
camped at half past seven. We passed 
through numerous islands, and had the ridge 
of snowy mountains always in sight. Our 
conductor informed us that great numbers of 
240 



NORTH-WEST CONTIISrENT OF AIVIERICA. 

bears and small white buffaloes frequent those 
mountains, which are also inhabited by In- 
dians. We encamped in a similar situation 
to that of the preceding evening, beneath an- 
other high rocky hill, which I attempted to 
ascend, in company with one of the hunters, 
but before we had got half way to the sum- 
mit, we were almost suffocated by clouds of 
mosquitoes, and were obliged to return. I 
observed, however, that a river flowed from 
the Westward: I also discovered a strong 
rippling current or rapid which ran close un- 
der a steep precipice of the hill. 

Tuesday, 7. — We embarked at four in the 
morning, and crossed to the opposite side of 
the river, in consequence of the rapid; but 
we might have spared ourselves this trouble, 
as there would have been no danger in con- 
tinuing our course, without any circuitous 
deviation whatever. This circumstance con- 
vinced us of the erroneous account given by 
the natives of the great and approaching 
dangers of our navigation, as this rapid was 
stated to be one of them. Our course was 
now North-North-West three miles. West- 
North - West four miles, North - West ten 
miles, North two miles, when we came to a 
river that flowed from the Eastward. Here 
we landed at an encampment of four fires, all 
the inhabitants of which ran off with the ut- 
most speed, except an old man and an old 
16 241 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

woman. Our guide called aloud to the fugi- 
tives, and entreated them to stay, but with- 
out effect: the old man, however, did not 
hesitate to approach us, and represented him- 
self as too far advanced in life, and too in- 
different about the short time he had to re- 
main in the world, to be very anxious about 
escaping from any danger that threatened 
him; at the same time he pulled his grey 
hairs from his head by handfuls to distribute 
among us, and implored our favour for him- 
self and his relations. Our guide, however, 
at length removed his fears, and persuaded 
him to recall the fugitives, who consisted of 
eighteen people ; whom I reconciled to me on 
their return with presents of beads, knives, 
awls, &c., with which they appeared to be 
greatly delighted. They differed in no re 
spect from those whom we had already seen ? 
nor were they deficient in hospitable atten- 
tions ; they provided us with fish, which was 
very well boiled, and cheerfully accepted by us. 
Our guide still sickened after his home, and 
was so anxious to return thither, that we were 
under the necessity of forcing him to embark. 

These people informed us that we were close 
to another great rapid, and that there were 
several lodges of their relations in its vicinity. 

Four canoes, with a man in each, followed 
us, to point out the particular channels we 
should follow for the secure passage of the 
242 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AIMERICA. 

rapid. They also abounded in discouraging 
stories concerning the dangers and difficulties 
which we were to encounter. 

From hence our course was North-North- 
Ea^t two miles, when the river appeared to 
be enclosed, as it were, with lofty, perpen- 
dicular, white rocks, which did not afford us 
a very agreeable prospect. We now went on 
shore, in order to examine the rapid, but did 
not perceive any signs of it, though the In- 
dians still continued to magnify its dangers : 
however, as they ventured down it, in their 
small canoes, our apprehensions were conse- 
quently removed, and we followed them at 
some distance, but did not find any increase 
in the rapidity of the current ; at length the 
Indians mformed us that we should find no 
other rapid but that which was now bearing 
us along. The river at this place is not above 
three hundred yards in breadth, but on sound- 
ing I found fifty fathoms water. At the two 
rivulets that offer their tributary streams from 
either side, we found six families, consisting 
of about thirty-five persons, who gave us an 
ample quantity of excellent fish, which were, 
however, confined to white fish, the poisson 
inconnu, and another of a round form and 
greenish colour, which was about fourteen 
inches in length. We gratified them with a 
few presents, and continued our voyage. The 
men, however, followed us in fifteen canoes. 
243 



JOURNAL OF A VOYGAE THROUGH THE 

This narrow channel is three miles long, 
and its course North-North-East. We then 
steered North three miles, and landed at an 
encampment of three or more families, con- 
taining twenty-two persons, which was situ- 
ated on the bank of a river, of a considerable 
appearance, which came from the Eastward. 
We obtained hares and partridges from these 
people, and presented in return such articles 
as greatly delighted them. They very much 
regretted that they had no goods or mer- 
chandise to exchange with us, as they had 
left them at a lake, from whence the river is- 
sued, and in whose vicinity some of their 
people were employed in setting snares for 
rem-deer. They engaged to go for their ar- 
ticles of trade, and would wait our return, 
which we assumed them would be within two 
months. There was a youth among them in 
the capacity of a slave, whom our Indians 
understood much better than any of the na- 
tives of this country whom they had yet seen ; 
he was invited to accompany us, but took the 
first opportunity to conceal himself, and we 
saw him no more. 

We now steered West five miles, when we 
again landed, and found two families, con- 
taining seven people, but had reason to be- 
lieve that there were others hidden in the 
woods. We received from them two dozen 
of hares, and they were about to boil two 
244 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

more, which they also gave us. We were not 
ungrateful for fheir kindness, and left them. 
Our course was now North- West four miles, 
and at nine we landed and pitched our tents, 
when one of our people killed a grey crane. 
Our conductor renewed his complaints, not, 
as he assured us, from any apprehension of 
our ill-treatment, but of the Esquimaux, 
whom he represented as a very wicked and 
malignant people ; who would put us all to 
death. He added, also, that it was but two 
summers since a large party of them came up 
this river, and killed many of his relations. 
Two Indians followed us from the last lodges. 
Wednesday, 8. — At half past two in the 
morning we embarked, and steered a Westerly 
course, and soon after put ashore at two 
lodges of nine Indians. We made them a 
few trifling presents, but without disembark- 
ing, and had proceeded but a small distance 
from thence, when we observed several 
smokes beneath a hill, on the North shore, 
and on our approach we perceived the natives 
climbing the ascent to gain the woods. The 
Indians, however, in the two small canoes 
which were ahead of us, having assured them 
of our friendly intentions, they returned to 
their fires, and we disembarked. Several of 
them were clad in hare-skins, but in every 
other circumstance they resembled those 
whom we had already seen. We were, how- 
245 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

ever, informed that they were of a different 
tribe, called the Hare Indians, as hares and 
fish are their principal support, from the 
scarcity of rein-deer and beaver, which are 
the only animals of the larger kind that fre- 
quent this part of the country. They were 
twenty-five in number ; and among them was 
a woman who was afflicted with an abscess in 
the belly, and reduced, in consequence, to a 
mere skeleton : at the same time several old 
women were singing and howling around her ; 
but whether these noises were to operate as 
a charm for her cure, or merely to amuse and 
console her, I do not pretend to determine. 
A small quantity of our usual presents were 
received by them with the greatest satisfac- 
tion. 

Here we made an exchange of our guide, 
who had become so troublesome that we were 
obliged to watch him night and day, except 
when he was upon the water. The man, 
however, who had agreed to go in his place 
soon repented of his engagement, and en- 
deavoured to persuade us that some of his re- 
lations further down the river, would readily 
accompany us, and were much better ac- 
quainted with the river than himself. But, 
as he had informed us ten minutes before 
that we should see no more of his tribe, we 
paid very little attention to his remonstrances, 
and compelled him to embark. 
246 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

In about three hours a man overtook us in 
a canoe, and we suspected that his object was 
to facilitate, in some way or other, the escape 
of our conductor. About twelve we also ob- 
served an Indian walking along the North- 
East shore, when the small canoes paddled 
towards him. We accordingly followed, and 
found three men, three women, and two chil- 
dren, who had been on an hunting expedition. 
They had some flesh of the rein-deer, which 
they offered to us, but it was so rotten, as 
well as offensive to the smell, that we ex- 
cused ourselves from accepting it. They had 
also their wonderful stories of danger and 
terror, as well as their countrymen, whom we 
had already seen ; and we were now informed, 
that behind the opposite island there was a 
Manitoe or spirit, in the river, which swal- 
lowed every person that approached it. As 
it would have employed half a day to have 
indulged oar curiosity in proceeding to ex- 
amine this phenomenon, we did not deviate 
from our course, but left these people with 
the usual presents, and proceeded on our 
voyage. Our course and distance this day 
were West twenty-eight miles, West-North- 
West twenty-three miles, West-South-West 
six miles. West by North five miles, South- 
West four miles, and encamped at eight 
o'clock. A fog prevailed the greater part of 
the day, with frequent showers of small rain. 
247 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 



CHAPTER IV. 

JULY, 1789. 

Thursday, 9. — Thunder and rain prevailed 
during the night, and, in the course of it, our 
guide deserted; we therefore compelled an- 
other of these people, very much against his 
will, to supply the place of his fugitive coun- 
tryman. V^e also took away the paddles of 
one of them who remained behind, that he 
might not follow us on any scheme of promot- 
ing the escape of his companion, who was not 
easily pacified. At length, however, we suc- 
ceeded in the act of conciliation, and at half 
past three quitted our station. In a short 
time- we saw a smoke on the East shore, and 
directed our course towards it. Our new 
guide began immediately to call to the people 
that belonged to it in a particular manner, 
which we did not comprehend. He informed 
us that they were not of his tribe, but were a 
very wicked, malignant people, who would 
beat us cruelly, pull our hair with great vio- 
lence from our heads, and maltreat us in 
various other ways. 

The men waited our arrival, but the wom- 
en and children took to the woods. There 
were but four of these people, and previous 
248 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

to our landing, they all harangued us at the 
same moment, and apparently with violent 
anger and resentment. Our hunters did not 
understand them, but no sooner had our guide 
addressed them, than they were appeased. I 
presented them with beads, awls, etc., and 
when the women and children returned from 
the woods, they were gratified with similar 
articles. There were fifteen of them ; and of 
a more pleasing appearance than any which 
we had hitherto seen, as they were healthy, 
full of flesh, and clean in their persons. 
Their language was somewhat different, but 
I believe chiefly in the accent, for they and 
our guide conversed intelligibly with each 
other ; and the English chief clearly compre- 
hended one of them, though he was not him- 
self understood. 

Their arms and utensils differ but little 
from those which have been described in a 
former chapter. The only iron they have is 
in small pieces, which serve them for knives. 
They obtain this metal from the Esquimaux 
Indians. Their arrows are made of very light 
wood, and are winged only with two feathers ; 
their bows differed from any which we had 
seen, and we understood that they were fur- 
nished by the Esquimaux, who are their 
neighbours : they consist of two pieces, with 
a very strong cord of sinews along the back, 
which is tied in several places, to preserve 
249 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

its shape; when this cord becomes wet, it 
requires a strong bow-string, and a powerful 
arm to draw it. The vessel in which they 
prepare their food, is made of a thin frame 
of wood, and of an oblong shape ; the bottom 
is fixed in a groove, in the same manner as a 
cask. Their shirts are not cut square at the 
bottom, but taper to a point, from the belt 
downwards as low as the knee, both before 
and behind, with a border, embellished with 
a short fringe. They use also another fringe, 
similar to that which has been already de- 
scribed, with the addition of the stone of a 
grey farinaceous berry, of the size and shape 
of a large barley-corn : it is of a brown col- 
our, and fluted, and being bored is run on 
each string of the fringe ; with this they dec- 
orate their shirts, by sewing it in a semicircle 
on the breast and back, and crossing over 
both shoulders; the sleeves are wide and 
short, but the mittens supply their deficiency, 
as they are long enough to reach over a part 
of the sleeve, and are commodiously sus- 
pended by a cord from the neck. If their 
leggins were made with waistbands, they 
might with great propriety be denominated 
trousers : they fasten them with a cord round 
the middle, so that they appear to have a 
sense of decency which their neighbours can 
not boast. Their shoes are sewed to their 
leggins, and decorated on every seam. One 
250 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

of the men was clad in a shirt made of the 
skins of the musk-rat. The dress of the 
women is the same as that of the men, except 
in their shirts, which are longer, and without 
the finishing of a fringe on their breast. 
Their peculiar mode of tying the hair is as 
follows : — that which grows on the temples, 
or the fore part of the skull, is formed into 
two queues, hanging down before the ears ; 
that of the scalp or crown is fashioned in the 
same manner to the back of the neck, and is 
then tied with the rest of the hair, at some 
distance from the head. A thin cord is em- 
ployed for these purposes, and very neatly 
worked with hair, artificially coloured. The 
women, and, indeed, some of the men, let 
their hair hang loose on their shoulders, 
whether it be long or short. 

We purchased a couple of very large moose 
skins from them, which were very well 
dressed; indeed we did not suppose that 
there were any of those animals in the coun- 
try ; and it appears from the accounts of the 
natives themselves, that they are very scarce. 
As for the beaver, the existence of such a 
creature does not seem to be known by them. 
Our people bought shirts of them, and many 
curious articles, &c. They presented us with 
a most delicious fish, which was less than a 
herring, and very beautifully spotted with 
black and yellow : its dorsal fin reached from 
251 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

the head to the tail; in its expanded state 
takes a triangular form, and is variegated 
with the colours that enliven the scales : the 
head is very small, and the mouth is armed 
with sharp-pointed teeth. 

We prevailed on the native, whose language 
was most intelligible, to accompany us. He 
informed us that we should sleep ten nights 
more before we arrived at the sea; that sev- 
eral of his relations resided in the immediate 
vicinity of this part of the river, and that in 
three nights we should meet with the Esqui- 
maux, with whom they had formerly made 
war, but were now in a state of peace and 
amity. He mentioned the last Indians whom 
we had seen in terms of great derision ; de- 
scribing them as being no better than old 
women, and as abominable liars ; which coin- 
cided with the notion we already entertained 
of them. . 

As we pushed off, some of my men dis- 
charged their fowling pieces, that were only 
loaded with powder, at the report of which 
the Indians were very much alarmed, as they 
had not before heard the discharge of fire- 
arms. This circumstance had such an effect 
upon our guide, that we had reason to ap- 
prehend he would not fulfil his promise. 
When, however, he was informed that the 
noise which he had heard was a signal of 
friendship, he was persuaded to embark in 
2o2 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

his own small canoe, though he had been 
offered a seat m ours. 

Two of his companions, whom he repre- 
sented as his brothers, followed us in their 
canoes ; and they amused us not only with 
their native songs, but with others, in imita- 
tion of the Esquimaux ; and our new guide 
was so enlivened by them, that the antics he 
performed, in keeping time to the singing, 
alarmed us with continual apprehension that 
his boat must upset : but he was not long 
content with his confined situation, and pad- 
dling up alongside our canoe, requested us to 
receive him in it, though but a short time be- 
fore he had resolutely refused to accept our 
invitation. No sooner had he entered our 
canoe, than he began to perform an Esqui- 
maux dance, to our no small alarm. He was, 
however, soon prevailed upon to be more 
tranquil ; when he began to display various 
indecencies, according to the customs of the 
Esquimaux, of which he boasted an intimate 
acquaintance. On our putting to shore, in 
order to leave his canoe, he informed us, that 
on the opposite hill the Esquimaux, three 
winters before, killed his grandfather. We 
saw a fox, and a ground-hog on the hill, the 
latter of which the brother of our guide shot 
with his bow and arrow. 

About four in the afternoon we perceived a 
smoke on the West shore, when we traversed 
253 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

and landed. The natives made a most ter- 
rible uproar, talking with great vociferation, 
and running about as if they were deprived 
of their senses, while the greater part of the 
women, with the children, fled away. Per- 
ceiving the disorder which our appearance 
occasioned among these people, we had waited 
some time before we quitted the canoe ; and 
I have no doubt, if we had been without 
people to introduce us, that they would have 
attempted some violence against us ; for when 
the Indians send away their women and chil- 
dren, it is always with a hostile design. At 
length we pacified them with the usual pres- 
ents, but they preferred beads to any of the 
articles that I offered them ; particularly such 
as were of a blue colour ; and one of them 
even requested to exchange a knife which I 
had given him for a small quantity of those 
ornamental baubles. I purchased of them 
two shirts for my hunters ; and at the same 
time they presented me with some arrows, 
and dried fish. This party consisted of five 
families, to the amount, as I suppose, of 
forty men, women, and children; but I did 
not see them all, as several were afraid to 
venture from their hiding-places. They are 
called Deguthee Dimes, or the Quarrellers. 

Our guide, like his predecessors, now man- 
ifested his wish to leave us, and entertained 
similar apprehensions that we should not re- 
254 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

turn by this passage. He had his alarms also 
respecting the Esquimaux, who might kill us 
and take away the women. Our Indians, 
however, assured him that we had no fears 
of any kind, and that he need not be alarmed 
for himself. They also convinced him that 
we should return by the way we were going, 
so that he consented to re-embark without 
giving us any further trouble ; and eight small 
canoes followed us. Our courses this day 
were South-West by West six miles, South- 
W'est by South thirty miles. South- West three 
miles. West by South twelve miles. West by 
North two miles, and we encamped at eight 
in the evening on the Eastern bank of the 
river. 

The Indians whom I found here, informed 
me, that from the place where I this mornmg 
met the first of their tribe, the distance over- 
land, on the East side, to the sea, was not 
long, and that from hence, by proceeding to 
the Westward, it was still shorter. They 
also represented the land on both sides as 
projecting to a point. These people do not 
appear to harbour any thievish dispositions ; 
at least we did not perceive that they took, 
or wanted to take, anything from us by stealth 
or artifice. They enjoyed the amusements of 
dancing and jumping in common with those 
we had already seen; and, indeed, these ex- 
ercises seem to be their favourite diversions. 
255 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

About mid-day the weather was sultry, but 
in the afternoon it became cold. There was 
a large quantity of wild flax, the growth of 
the last year, laying on the ground, and the 
new plants were sprouting up through it. 
This circumstance I did not observe in any 
other part. 

At four in the morning we embarked, at a 
small distance from the place of our encamp- 
ment: the river, which here becomes nar- 
rower, flows between high rocks; and a 
meandering course took us North- West four 
miles. At this spot the banks became low ; 
indeed, from the first rapid, the country does 
not wear a mountainous appearance ; but the 
banks of the river are generally lofty, in 
some places perfectly naked, and in others 
well covered with small trees, such as the fir 
and the birch. We continued our last course 
for two miles, with mountains before us, 
whose tops were covered with snow. 

The land is low on both sides of the river, 
except these mountains, whose base is dis- 
tant about ten miles : here the river widens, 
and runs through various channels, formed 
by islands, some of which are without a tree, 
and little more than banks of mud and sand ; 
while others are covered with a kind of 
spruce fir, and trees of a larger size than we 
had seen for the last ten days. Their banks, 
which are about six feet above the surface of 
256 



NOKTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

the water, display a face of solid ice, inter- 
mixed with, veins of black earth, and as the 
heat of the sun melts the ice, the trees fre- 
quently fall into the river. 

So various were the channels of the river 
at this time, that we were at a loss which to 
take. Our guide preferred the Easternmost, 
on account of the Esquimaux, but I deter- 
mined to take the middle channel, as it ap- 
peared to be a larger body of water, and run- 
ning North and South : besides, as there was 
a greater chance of seeing them I concluded, 
that we could always go to the Eastward, 
whenever we might prefer it. Our course 
was now West by North six miles, North- 
West by West, the snowy mountains being 
West by South from us, and stretching to the 
Northward as far as we could see. Accord- 
ing to the information of the Indians, they 
are part of the chain of mountains which we 
approached on the third of this month. I 
obtained an observation this day that gave 
me 67. 47. North latitude, which was farther 
North than I expected, according to the 
course I kept : but the difference was owing 
to the variation of the compass, which was 
more Easterly than I imagined. From hence 
it was evident that these waters emptied 
themselves into the Hyperborean Sea; and 
though it was probable that, from the want 
of provision, we could not return to Atha- 
17 257 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

basca in the course of the season, I neverthe- 
less, determined to penetrate to the discharge 
of them. 

My new conductor being very much dis- 
couraged and quite tired of his situation, 
used his influence to prevent our proceeding. 
He had never been, he said, at the Benahullo 
Toe, or AVhite Man's Lake; and that when 
he went to the Esquimaux Lake, which is at 
no great distance, he passed over land from 
the place where we found him, and to that 
part where the Esquimaux pass the summer. 
In short, my hunters also became so disheart- 
ened from these accounts, and other circum- 
stances, that I was confident they would have 
left me, if it had been in their power. I, 
however, satisfied them in some degree, by 
the assurance, that I would proceed onwards 
but seven days more, and if I did not then 
get to the sea, I would return. Indeed, the 
low state of our provisions, without any 
other consideration, formed a very sufiicient 
security for the maintenance of my engage- 
ment. Our last course was thirty-two miles, 
with a stronger current than could be expected 
in such a low country. 

We now proceeded North-North-West four 
miles, North- West three miles, North-East 
two miles. North- West by West three miles, 
and North-East two miles. At half past 
eight in the evening we landed and pitched 
258 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

our tents, near to where there had been three 
encampments of the Esquimaux, since the 
breaking up of the ice. The natives, who 
followed us yesterday, left us at our station 
this morning. In the course of the day we 
saw large flocks of wild fowl. 

Saturday, 11. — I sat up all night to ob- 
serve the sun. At half past twelve I called 
up one of the men to view a spectacle which 
he had never before seen; when, on seeing 
the sun so high, he thought it was a signal 
to embark, and began to call the rest of his 
companions, who would scarcely be persuaded 
by me, that the sun had not descended nearer 
to the horizon, and that it was now but a 
short time past midnight. 

We reposed, however, till three quarters 
after three, when we entered the canoe, and 
steered about North-West, the river taking a 
very serpentine course. About seven we saw 
a ridge of high land ; at twelve we landed at 
a spot where we observed that some of the 
natives had lately been. I counted thirty 
places where there had been fires ; and some 
of the men who went further, saw as many 
more. They must have been here for a con- 
siderable time, though it does not appear that 
they had erected any huts. A great number 
of poles, however, were seen fixed in the 
river, to which they had attached their nets, 
and there seemed to be an excellent fishery. 
259 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

One of the fish, of the many which we saw 
leap out of the water, fell into our canoe ; it 
was about ten inches long, and of a round 
shape. About the places where they had 
made their fires, were scattered pieces of 
whalebone, and thick burned leather, with 
parts of the frames of three canoes ; we could 
also observe where they had spilled train oil ; 
and there was the singular appearance of a 
spruce fir, stripped of its branches to the top 
like an English May-pole. The weather was 
cloudy, and the air cold and unpleasant. 
From this place for about five miles, the river 
widens, it then flows in a variety of narrow, 
meandering channels, amongst low islands, 
enlivened with no trees, but a few dwarf wil- 
lows. 

At four, we landed, where there were three 
houses, or rather huts, belonging to the na- 
tives. The ground-plot is of an oval form, 
about fifteen feet long, ten feet wide in the 
middle, and eight feet at either end; the 
whole of it is dug about twelve inches below 
the surface of the ground, and one half of it 
is covered over with willow branches ; which 
probably serves as a bed for the whole family. 

A space, in the middle of the other part, 
of about four feet wide, is deepened twelve 
inches more, and is the only spot in the house 
where a grown person can stand upright. 
One side of it is covered, as has been already 
260 



J 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

described, and the other is the hearth or fire- 
place, of which, however, they do not make 
much use. Though it was close to the wall, 
the latter did not appear to be burned. The 
door or entrance is in the middle of one end 
of the house, and is about two feet and an 
half high, and two feet wide, and has a cov- 
ered way or porch five feet in length ; so that 
it is absolutely necessary to creep on all fours 
in order to get into, or out of, this curious 
habitation. There is a hole of about eighteen 
inches square on the top of it, which serves 
the threefold purpose of a window, aa occa- 
sional door, and a chimney. The under- 
ground part of the floor is lined with split 
wood. Six or eight stumps of small trees 
driven into the earth, with the root upwards, 
on which are laid some cross pieces of timber, 
support the roof of the building, which is an 
oblong square of ten feet by six. The whole 
is made of drift-wood covered with branches 
and dry-grass ; over which is laid a foot deep 
of earth. On each side of these houses are a 
few square holes in the ground of about two 
feet in depth, which are covered with split 
wood and earth, except in the middle. These 
appeared to be contrived for the preservation 
of the winter stock of provisions. In and 
about the houses we found sledge runners and 
bones, pieces of whalebone, and poplar bark 
cut in circles, which are used as corks to buoy 
261 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

the nets, aud are fixed to them by pieces of 
whalebone. Before each hut a great number 
of stumps of trees were fixed in the ground, 
upon which it appeared that they hung their 
fish to dry. 

We now continued our voyage, and en- 
camped at eight o'clock. I calculated our 
course at about North- West, and, allowing 
for the windings, that we had made fifty-four 
miles. We expected, throughout the day, to 
meet with some of the natives. On several 
of the islands we perceived the print of their 
feet in the sand, as if they had been there 
but a few days before, to procure wild fowl. 
There were frequent showers of rain in the 
afternoon, and the weather was raw and dis- 
agreeable. We saw a black fox; but trees 
were now become very rare objects, except a 
few dwarf willows, of not more than three 
feet in height. 

The discontents of our hunters were now 
renewed by the accounts which our guide had 
been giving of that part of our voyage that 
was approaching. According to his informa- 
tion, we were to see a larger lake on the 
morrow. Neither he nor his relations, he 
said, knew any thing about it, except that 
part which is opposite to, and not far from, 
their country. The Esquimaux alone, he 
added, inhabit its shores, and kill a large fish 
that is found in it, which is a principal part 
262 



:noiith-west contikent of America. 

X)f their food; this, we presumed, must be the 
whale. He also mentioned white bears, and 
tanother large animal which was seen in those 
parts, but our hunters could not understand 
i;he description which he gave of it. He also 
represented their canoes as being of a large 
construction, which would commodiously 
contain four or five families. However, to 
reconcile the English chief to the necessary- 
continuance in my service, I presented him 
with one of my capotes or travelling coats ; 
at the same time, to satisfy the guide, and 
i:eep him, if possible, in good humour, I gave 
iiim a skin of the moose-deer, which, in his 
opinion, was a valuable present. 

Sunday f 12. — It rained with violence 
"throughout the night, and till two in the 
morning ; the weather continuing very cold. 
We proceeded on the same meandering course 
as yesterday, the wind North-North- West, 
and the country so naked that scarce a shrub 
was to be seen. At ten in the morning, we 
landed where there were four huts, exactly 
"the same as those which have been so lately 
described. The adjacent land is high and 
-covered with short grass and flowers, though 
iihe earth was not thawed above four inches 
from the surface ; beneath which was a solid 
'body of ice. This beautiful appearance, 
liowever, was strangely contrasted with the 
ice and snow that are seen in the valleys. 
263 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

The soil, where there is any, is a yellow clay 
mixed with stones. These huts appear to 
have been inhabited during the last winter ; 
and we had reason to think that some of 
the natives had been lately there, as the 
beach was covered with the track of their 
feet. Many of the runners and bars of their 
sledges were laid together, near the houses, 
in a manner that seemed to denote the return, 
of the proprietors. There were also pieces 
of netting made of sinews, and some bark of 
the willow. The thread of the former was 
plaited, and no ordinary portion of time must 
have been employed in manufacturing so great 
a length of cord. A square stone-kettle, with 
a flat bottom, also occupied our attention, 
which was capable of containing two gallons ^ 
and we were puzzled as to the means these 
people must have employed to have chiselled 
it out of a solid rock into its present form. 
To these articles may be added, small pieces 
of flint fixed into handles of wood, which 
probably serve as knives; several wooden 
dishes ; the stern and part of a large canoe ; 
pieces of very thick leather, which we con- 
jectured to be the covering of a canoe; sev- 
eral bones of large fish, and two heads ; but 
we could not determine the animal to which 
they belonged, though we conjectured that it 
must be the sea-horse. 

When we had satisfied our curiosity we re- 
264 



NORTH-WEST CONTIKENT OF AMERICA. 

embarked, but we were at a loss what course 
to steer, as our guide seemed to be as igno- 
rant of this country as ourselves. Though the 
current was very strong, we appeared to have 
come to the entrance of the lake. The stream 
set to the West, and we went with it to an 
high point, at the distance of about eight 
m.iles, which we conjectured to be an island ; 
but, on approaching it, we perceived it to be 
connected with the shore by a low neck of 
land. I now took an observation which gave 
69. 1. I^orth latitude. From the point that 
has been just mentioned, we continued the 
same course for the Westernmost point of an 
high island, and the Westernmost land in 
sight, at the distance of fifteen miles. 

The lake was quite open to us to the West- 
ward, and out of the channel of the river 
there was not more than four feet water, and 
in some places the depth did not exceed one 
foot. From the shallowness of the water it 
was impossible to coast to the Westward. At 
^ve o'clock we arrived at the island, and 
during the last fifteen miles, five feet was the 
deepest water. The lake now appeared to 
be covered with ice, for about two leagues 
distance, and no land ahead, so that we were 
prevented from proceeding in this direction 
by the ice, and the shallowness of the water 
along the shore. 

We landed at the boundary of our voyage 
265 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE* 

in this direction, and as soon as the tents, 
were pitched I ordered the nets to be set> 
when I proceeded with the English chief ta 
the highest part of the island, from which we 
discovered the solid ice, extending from the. 
South- West by compass to the Eastward. As 
far as the eye could reach to the South-West- 
ward, we could dunly perceive a chain of 
mountains, stretching further to the North 
than the edge of the ice, at the distance of 
upwards of twenty leagues. To the Eastward 
we saw many islands, and in our progress we 
met with a considerable number of white- 
partridges, now become brown. There were 
also flocks of very beautiful plovers, and I 
found the nest of one of them with four eggs. 
White owls, likewise, were among the inhab- 
itants of the place : but the dead, as well as 
the living, demanded our attention, for we. 
came to the grave of one of the natives, by 
which lay a bow, a paddle, and a spear. The 
Indians informed me that they landed on a 
small island, about four leagues from hence, 
where they had seen the tracks of two men,, 
that were quite fresh ; they had also found a 
secret store of train oil, and several bones of 
white bears were scattered about the place 
where it was hid. The wind was now so 
high that it was impracticable for us to visit 
the nets. 

My people could not, at this time, refrain 
266 



l^ORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

from expressions of real concern, that they 
i^ere obliged to return without reaching the 
sea: indeed, the hope of attaining this object 
encouraged them to bear, without repining, 
the hardships of our unremitting voyage. 
For some time past their spirits were ani- 
mated by the expectation that another day 
would bring them to the Mer d^ouest: and 
«ven in our present situation they declared 
their readiness to follow me wherever I 
should be pleased to lead them. We saw sev- 
eral large white gulls, and other birds, whose 
back, and upper feathers of the wing are 
brown ; and whose belly, and under feathers 
of the wing are white. 



267 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 



CHAPTER V. 

JULY, 1789. 

Monday, 13. — We had no sooner retired to 
rest last night, if I may use that expression, 
in a country where the sun never sinks be- 
neath the horizon, than some of the people 
were obliged to rise and remove the baggage, 
on account of the rising of the water. At 
eight in the morning the weather was fine 
and calm, which afforded an opportunity to 
examine the nets, one of which had been 
driven from its position by the wind and cur- 
rent. We caught seven poissons inconnus, 
which were unpalatable; a white fish, that 
proved delicious ; and another about the size 
of an herring, which none of us had ever seen 
before, except the English chief, who recog- 
nised it as being of a kind that abounds in 
Hudson's Bay. About noon the wind blew 
hard from the Westward, when I took an ob- 
servation, which gave 69. 14. North latitude, 
and the meridian variation of the compass 
was thirty-six degrees Eastward.* 

This afternoon I re -ascended the hill, but 
could not discover that the ice had been put 

* The longitude has since been discovered, by the 
dead reckoning, to be 135. West. 
268 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

in motion by the force of the wind. At the 
same time I could just distinguish two small 
islands in the ice, to the North-West by com- 
pass. I now thought it necessary to give a 
new net to my men to mount, in order to ob- 
tain as much provision as possible from the 
water, our stores being reduced to about five 
hundred weight, which, without any other 
supply, would not have sufficed for fifteen 
people above twelve days. One of the young 
Indians, however, was so fortunate as to find 
the net that had been missing, and which con- 
tained three of the poissons inconnus. 

Tuesday y I4. — It blew very hard from the 
North-West since the preceding evening. 
Having sat up till three in the morning, I 
slept longer than usual ; but about eight one 
of my men saw a great many animals in the 
water, which he at first supposed to be pieces 
of ice. About nine, however, I was awakened 
to resolve the doubts which had taken place 
respecting this extraordinary appearance. I 
immediately perceived that they were whales ; 
and having ordered the canoe to be prepared, 
we embarked in pursuit of them. It was, in- 
deed, a very wild and unreflecting enterprise, 
and it was a very fortunate circumstance that 
we failed in our attempt to overtake them, 
as a stroke from the tail of one of these enor- 
mous fish would have dashed the canoe to 
pieces. We may, perhaps, have been in- 
269 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THK 

debted to the foggy weather for our safety y. 
as it prevented us from continuing our pur- 
suit. Our guide informed us that they ar&. 
the same kind of fish which are the principal 
food of the Esquimaux, and they were fre- 
quently seen as large as our canoe. The part 
of them which appeared above the water wa& 
altogether white, and they were much larger 
than the largest porpoise. 

About twelve the fog dispersed, and being 
curious to take a view of the ice, I gave 
orders for the canoe to be got in readiness. 
We accordingly embarked, and the Indians 
followed us. We had not, however, been an 
hour on the water, when the wind rose on a. 
sudden from the North-East, and obliged u& 
to tack about, and the return of the fog pre- 
vented us from ascertaining our distance front 
the ice ; indeed, from this circumstance, the^ 
island which we had so lately left was but. 
dimly seen. Though the wind was close, we- 
ventured to hoist the sail, and from the vio- 
lence of the swell it was by great exertions, 
that two men could bale out the water from 
our canoe. We were in a state of actual 
danger, and felt every corresponding emotion 
of pleasure when we reached the land. The^ 
Indians had fortunately got more to wind- 
ward, so that the swell in some measure drove 
them on shore, though their canoes were 
nearly filled with water ; and had they beeiiL 
270 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

laden, we should have seea them no more. 
As I did not propose to satisfy my curiosity 
at the risk of similar dangers, we continued 
our course along the islands, which screened 
us from the wind. I was now determined to 
take a more particular examination of the 
islands, in the hope of meeting with parties of 
the natives, from whom I might be able to 
obtain some interesting intelligence, though 
our conductor discouraged my expectations, 
by representing them as very shy and inac- 
cessible people. At the same time he in- 
form.ed me, that we should probably find 
some of them, if we navigated the channel 
which he had originally recommended us to 
enter. 

At eight we encamped on the Eastern end 
of the island, which I had named the Wliale 
Island. It is about seven leagues in length. 
East and West by compass; but not more 
than half a mile in breadth. We saw several 
red foxes, one of which was killed. There 
were also five or six very old huts on the 
point where we had taken our station. The 
nets were now set, and one of them in five 
fathom water, the current setting North-East 
by compass. This morning^I_ordereda post 
to be erected close to our tents, on which I 
engraved the latitude of the place, my own 
name, the number of persons which I had 
with me, and the time we remained there. 
271 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

Wednesday y 15. — Being awakened by some 
casual circumstance, at four this morning, I 
was surprised on perceiving that the water 
had flowed under our baggage. As the wind 
had not changed, and did not blow with 
greater violence than when we went to rest, 
we were all of opinion that this circumstance 
proceeded from the tide. We had, indeed, 
observed at the other end of the island, that 
the water rose and fell ; but we then imagined 
that it must have been occasioned by the 
wind. The water continued to rise till about 
six, but I could not ascertain the time with 
the requisite precision, as the wind then be- 
gan to blow with great violence ; I therefore 
determined, at all events, to remain here till 
the next morning, though, as it happened, 
the state of the wind was such, as to render 
my stay here an act of necessity. Our nets 
were not very successful, as they presented 
us with only eight fish. From an observa- 
tion which I obtained at noon we were in 69. 
7. North latitude. As the evening ap- 
proached, the wind increased, and the weather 
became cold. Two swans were the only 
provision which the hunters procured for 
us. 

Thursday y 16. — The rain did not cease till 
seven this morning, the weather being at in- 
tervals very cold and unpleasant. Such was 
its inconstancy, that I could not make an 
272 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

accurate observation; but the tide appeared 
to rise sixteen or eighteen inches. 

We now embarked, and steered under sail 
among the islands, where I hoped to meet with 
some of the natives, but my expectation was 
not gratified. Our guide imagined that they 
were gone to their distant haunts, where they 
fish for whales and hunt the rein-deer, that 
are opposite to his country. His relations, 
he said, see them every year, but he did not 
encourage us to expect that we should find 
any of them, unless it were at a small river 
that falls into the great one, from the East- 
ward, at a considerable distance from our im- 
mediate situation. We accordingly made for 
the river, and stemmed the current. At two 
in the afternoon the water was quite shallow 
in every part of our course, and we could al- 
ways find the bottom with the paddle. At 
seven we landed, encamped, and set the 
nets. Here the Indians killed two geese, two 
cranes, and a white owl. Since we entered 
the river, we experienced a very agreeable 
change in the temperature of the air ; but this 
pleasant circumstance was not without its in- 
convenience, as it subjected us to the perse- 
cution of the mosquitoes. 

Friday, 17. — On taking up the nets, they 
were found to contain but six fish. We em- 
barked at four in the morning, and passed 
four encampments ; which appeared to have 
18 273 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THPi 

been very lately inhabited. We then landed 
upon a small round island, close to the East- 
ern shore, which possessed somewhat of a 
sacred character, as the top of it seemed to 
be a place of sepulture, from the numerous 
graves which we observed there. We found 
the frame of a small canoe, with various 
dishes, troughs, and other utensils, which 
had been the living property of those who 
could now use them no more, and form the 
ordinary accompaniments of their last abodes. 
As no part of the skins that must have cov- 
ered the canoe was remaining, we concluded 
that it had been eaten by wild animals that 
inhabit, or occasionally frequent, the island. 
The frame of the canoe, which was entire, 
was put together with whale-bone; it was 
sewed in some parts, and tied in others. The 
sledges were from four to eight feet long ; the 
length of the bars was upwards of two feet; 
the runners were two inches thick and nine 
inches deep ; the prow was two feet and an 
half high, and formed of two pieces, sewed 
with whalebone, to three other thin spars of 
wood, which were of the same height ; and 
fixed in the runners by means of mortises, 
were sewed two thin broad bars lengthways, 
at a small distance from each other ; these 
frames were fixed together with three or four 
cross bars, tied fast upon the runners, and on 
the lower edge of the latter, small pieces of 
274 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

horn were fastened by wooden pegs, that they 
might slide with greater facility. They are 
drawn by shafts, which I imagine are applied 
to any particular sledge as they are wanted 
as I saw no more than one pair of them. 

About half past one we came opposite to 
the first spruce-tree that we had seen for 
some time : there are but very few of them 
on the main land, and they are very small : 
those are larger which are found on the 
islands, where they grow in patches, and 
close together. It is, indeed, very extraor- 
dinary that there should be any wood what- 
ever in a country where the ground never 
thaws above five inches from the surface. 
We landed at seven in the evening. The 
weather was now very pleasant, and in the 
course of the day we saw great numbers of 
wild fowl, with their young ones, but they 
were so shy that we could not approach them. 
The Indians were not very successful in their 
foraging party, as they killed only two grey 
cranes, and a grey goose. Two of them were 
employed on the high land to the Eastward, 
through the greater part of the day, in search 
of rein-deer, but they could discover nothing 
more than a few tracks of that animal. I also 
ascended the high land, from whence I had 
a delightful view of the river, divided into 
innumerable streams, meandering through 
islands, some of which were covered with 
275 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

wood, and others with grass. The moun- 
tains, that formed the opposite horizon, were 
at the distance of forty miles. The inland 
view was neither so extensive nor agreeable, 
being terminated by a near range of bleak^ 
barren hills, between which are small lakes 
or ponds, while the surrounding country is 
covered with tufts of moss, without the shade 
of a single tree. Along tlie hills is a kind of 
fence, made with branches, where the natives 
had set snares to catch white partridges. 

Saturday^ 18. — The nets did not produce 
a single fish, and at three o'clock in the 
morning we took our departure. The weather 
was fine and clear, and we passed several en- 
campments. As the prints of human feet 
were very fresh in the sand, it could not have 
been long since the natives had visited the 
spot. We now proceeded in the hope of 
meeting with some of them at the river, 
whither our guide was conducting us with 
that expectation. We observed a great num- 
ber of trees, in different places, whose 
branches had been lopped off to the tops. 
They denote the immediate abode of the na- 
tives, and probably serve for signals to direct 
each other to their respective winter-quarters. 
Our hunters, in the course of the day, killed 
two rein-deer, which were the only large ani- 
mals that we had seen since we had been in 
this river, and proved a very seasonable sup- 
270 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

ply, as our pemmican had become mouldy for 
some time past; though in that situation we 
were under the necessity of eating it. 

In the valleys and low lands near the 
river, cranberries are found in great abun- 
dance, particularly in favourable aspects. It 
is a singular circumstance, that the fruit of 
two succeeding years may be gathered at the 
same time, from the same shrub. Here was 
also another berry, of a very pale yellow col- 
our, that resembles a raspberry, and is of a 
very agreeable flavour. There is a great 
variety of other plants and herbs, whose 
names and properties are unknown to 
me. 

The weather became cold towards the after- 
noon, with the appearance of rain, and we 
landed for the night at seven in the evening. 
The Indians killed eight geese. During the 
greater part of the day I walked with the 
English chief, and found it very disagreeable 
and fatiguing. Though the country is so 
elevated, it was one contin ual moras s, except 
on the summits of some barren hills. As I 
carried my hanger in my hand, I frequently 
examined if any part of the ground was in a 
state of thaw, but could never force the blade 
into it, beyond the depth of six or eight 
inches. The face of the high land, towards 
the river, is in some places rocky, and in 
others a mixture of sand and stone, veined 
277 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

with a kind of red earth, with which the na- 
tives bedaub themselves. 

Sayiday, 19. — It rained, and blew hard from 
the North, till eight in the morning, when 
we discovered that our conductor had escaped. 
I was, indeed, surprised at his honesty, as he 
left the moose-skin which I had given him 
for a covering, and went off in his shirt, 
though the weather was very cold. I in- 
quired of the Indians if they had given him 
any cause of offence, or had observed any re- 
cent disposition in him to desert us, but they 
assured me that they had not in any instance 
displeased him : at the same time they recol- 
lected that he had expressed his apprehen- 
sions of being taken away as a slave ; and his 
alarms were probably increased on the preced- 
ing day, when he saw them kill the two rein- 
deer with so much readiness. In the after- 
noon the v/eather became fine and clear, when 
we saw large flights of geese with their young 
ones, and the hunters killed twenty-two of 
them. As they had at this time cast their 
feathers, they could not fly. They were of 
a small kind, and much inferior in size to 
those that frequent the vicinity of Athabasca. 
At eight, we took our station near an Indian 
encampment, and, as we had observed in sim- 
ilar situations, pieces of bone, rein-deer^s 
horn, «&c., were scattered about it. It also 
appeared, that the natives had been employed 
278 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

here in working wood into arms, uten- 
sils, &G. 

Monday, 20. — We embarked at three this 
morning, when the weather was cloudy, with 
small rain and aft wind. About twelve the 
rain became so violent as to compel us to en- 
camp at two in the afternoon. We saw great 
numbers of fowl, and killed among us fifteen 
geese and four swans. Had the weather 
been more favourable, we should have added 
considerably to our booty. We now passed 
the river, where we expected to meet some of 
the natives, but discovered no signs of them. 
The ground close to the river does not rise 
to any considerable height, and the hills, 
which are at a small distance, are covered 
with the spruce fir and small birch trees, to 
their very summits. 

Tuesday, 21. — We embarked at half past 
one this morning, when the weather was cold 
and unpleasant, and the wind South-West. 
At ten, we left the channels formed by the 
islands for the uninterrupted channel of the 
river, where we found the current so strong, 
that it was absolutely necessary to tow the 
canoe with a line. The land on both sides 
was elevated, and almost perpendicular, and 
the shore beneath it, which is of no great 
breadth, was covered with a grey stone that 
falls from the precipice. We made much 
greater expedition with the line, than we 
279 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

could have done with the paddles. The men 
in the canoe relieved two of those on shore 
every two hours, so that it was very hard and 
fatiguing duty, but it saved a great deal of that 
time which was so precious to us. At half 
past eight we landed at the same spot where 
we had already encamped on the ninth in- 
stant. 

In about an hour after our arrival, we were 
joined by eleven of the natives, who were 
stationed farther up the river, and there were 
some among them whom we had not seen 
during our former visit to this place. The 
brother of our late guide, however, was of 
the party, and was eager in his inquiries after 
him ; but our account did not prove satisfac- 
tory. They all gave evident tokens of their 
suspicion, and each of them made a distinct 
harangue on the occasion. Our Indians, in- 
deed, did not understand their eloquence, 
though they conjectured it to be very unfa- 
vourable to our assertions. The brother, 
nevertheless, proposed to barter his credulity 
for a small quantity of beads, and promised 
to believe every thing I should say, if I would 
gratify him with a few of those baubles ; but 
he did not succeed in his proposition, and I 
contented myself with giving him the bow 
and arrows which our conductor had left with 
us. 

My people were now necessarily engaged 
280 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

in putting the fire-arms in order, after the 
violent rain of the preceding day ; an employ- 
ment which very much attracted the curios- 
ity, and appeared in some degree, to awaken 
the apprehensions of the natives. To their 
inquiries concerning the motives of our prep- 
aration, we answered by showing a piece of 
meat and a goose, and informing them, that 
we were preparing our arms to procure sim- 
ilar provisions : at the same time we assured 
them, though it was our intention to kill any 
animals we might find, there was no inten- 
tion to hurt or injure them. They, hovrever, 
entreated us not to discharge our pieces in 
their presence. I requested the English chief 
to ask them some questions, which they either 
did not or would not understand ; so that I 
failed in obtaining any information from 
them. 

All my people went to rest ; but I thought 
it prudent to sit up, in order to watch the 
motions of the natives. This circumstance 
was a subject of their inquiry; and their 
curiosity was still more excited, when they 
saw me employed in writing. About twelve 
o'clock I perceived four of their women com- 
ing along the shore ; and they were no sooner 
seen by their friends, than they ran hastily 
to meet them, and persuaded two of them, 
who, I suppose, were young, to return, while 
they brought the other two, who were very 
281 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

old, to enjoy the warmth of our fire; but, 
after staying there for about half an hour, 
they also retreated. Those who remained, 
immediately kindled a small fire, and laid 
themselves down to sleep round it, like so 
many whelps, having neither skins or gar- 
ments of any kind to cover them, notwith- 
standing the cold that prevailed. My people 
having placed their kettle of meat on the fire, 
I was obliged to guard it from the natives, 
who made several attempts to possess them- 
selves of its contents ; and this was the only 
instance I had hitherto discovered, of their 
being influenced by a pilfering disposition. 
It might, perhaps, be a general opinion, that 
provisions were a common property. I now 
saw the sun set for the first time since I had 
been here before. During the preceding 
night, the weather was so cloudy, that I could 
not observe its descent to the horizon. The 
water had sunk, at this place, upward of 
three feet since we had passed down the river. 
Wednesday, 22. — We began our march at 
half past three this morning, the men being 
employed to tow the canoe. I walked with 
the Indians to their huts, which were at a 
greater distance than I had any reason to ex- 
pect, for it occupied three hours in hard walk- 
ing to reach them. We passed a narrow, and 
deep river in our way, at the mouth of which 
the natives had set their nets. They had hid 
282 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

their effects, and sent their young women 
into the woods, as we saw but very few of 
the former, and none of the latter. They 
had large huts built with drift-wood on the 
declivity of the beach and in the inside the 
earth was dug away, so as to form a level 
floor. At each end was a stout fork, whereon 
was laid a strong ridge-pole, which formed a 
support to the whole structure, and a cover- 
mg of spruce bark preserved it from the rain. 
Various spars of different heights were fixed 
within the hut, and covered with split fish 
that hung on them to dry; and fires were 
made in different parts to accelerate the oper- 
ation. There were rails also on the outside 
of the building, which were hung around 
with fish, but in a fresher state than those 
within. The spawn is also carefully pre- 
served and dried in the same manner. We 
obtained as many fish from them as the canoe 
could conveniently contain, and some strings 
of beads were the price paid for them, an ar- 
ticle which they preferred to every other. 
Iron they held in little or no estimation. 

During the two hours that I remained here, 
I employed the English chief in a continual 
state of inquiry concerning these people. 
The information that resulted from this con- 
ference was as follows : 

This nation or tribe is very numerous, with 
whom the Esquimaux had been continually 
283 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

at variance, a people who take every advan- 
tage of attacking those who are not in a state 
to defend themselves ; and though they had 
promised friendship, had lately, and in the 
most treacherous manner, butchered some of 
their people. As a proof of this circum- 
stance, the relations of the deceased showed 
us, that they had cut off their hair on the oc- 
casion. They also declared their determina- 
tion to withdraw all confidence in future from 
the Esquimaux, and to collect themselves in 
a formidable body, that they might be en- 
abled to revenge the death of their friends. 

From their account, a strong party of 
Esquimaux occasionally ascends this river, in 
large canoes, in search of flint stones, which 
they employ to point their spears and arrows. 
They were now at their lake due East from 
the spot where we then were, which was at 
no great distance over land, where they kill 
the rein-deer, and that they would soon begin 
to catch big fish for the winter stock. We 
could not, however, obtain any information 
respecting the lake in the direction in which 
we were. To the Eastward and Westward 
where they saw it, the ice breaks up, but soon 
freezes again. 

The Esquimaux informed them that they 

saw large canoes full of white men to the 

Westward, eight or ten winters ago, from 

whom they obtained iron in exchange for 

284 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.. 

leather. The lake where they met these 
canoes, is called by them Belhoullay Toe, or 
White Man's Lake. They also represented 
the Esquimaux as dressing like themselves. 
They wear their hair short, and have two 
holes perforated, one on each side of the 
mouth, in a line with the under lip, in which 
they place long beads tiiat they lind in the 
lake. Their bows are somewhat different 
from those used by the natives we had seen, 
and they employ slings from whence they 
throw stones with such dexterity that they 
prove very formidable weapons in the day of 
battle. 

We also learned in addition from the na- 
tives, that we should not see any more of 
their relations, as they had all left the river 
to go in pursuit of rein-deer for their provi- 
sions, and that they themselves should en- 
gage in a similar expedition in a few days. 
Rein-deer, bears, wolverines, martens, foxes, 
hares, and white buffaloes are the only quad- 
rupeds in their country ; and that the latter 
were only to be found in the mountains to 
the Westward. 

We proceeded with the line throughout the 
day, except two hours, when we employed 
the sail. We encamped at eight in the even- 
ing. From the place we quitted this morn- 
ing, the banks of the river are well covered 
with small wood, spruce, firs, birch, and wil- 
285 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGrfl THE 

low. We found it very warm du ing the 
whole of our progress. 

Thursday, 23. — At five in the morning we 
proceeded on our voyage, but found it very 
difficult to travel along the beach. We ob- 
served several places where the natives had 
stationed themselves and set their nets since 
our passage downwards. We passed a small 
river, and at five o'clock our Indians put to 
shore in order to encamp, but we proceeded 
onwards, which displeased them very much, 
from the fatigue they suffered, and at eight 
we encamped at our position of the 8th in- 
stant. The day was very fine, and we em- 
ployed the towing line throughout the course 
of it. At ten, our hunters returned, sullen 
and dissatisfied. We had not touched any of 
our provision stores for six days, in which 
time we had consumed two rein-deer, four 
swans, forty-five geese, and a considerable 
quantity of fish : but it is to be considered, 
that we were ten men, and four women. I 
have always observed, that the north men 
possessed very hearty appetites, but they 
were very much exceeded by those with me, 
since we entered this river. I should really 
have thought it absolute gluttony in my peo- 
ple, if my own appetite had not increased ii? 
a similar proportion. 



286 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 



CHAPTER yi. 

JULY, 1789. 

Friday f 24. — At five we continued our 
course, but, in a very short time, were under 
the necessity of applying to the aid of the 
line, the stream being so strong as to render 
all our attempts unavailing to stem it with 
the paddles. We passed a small river, on 
each side of which the natives and Esqui- 
maux collect flint. The bank is an high, 
steep, and soft rock, variegated with red, 
green, and yellow hues. Erom the continual 
dripping of water, parts of it frequently fall 
and break into small stony flakes like slate, 
but not so hard. Among them are found 
pieces of Fetrolmm, which bears a resem- 
blance to yellow wax, but is more friable. 
The English chief informed me that rocks of 
a similar kind are scattered about the country 
at the back of the Slave Lake, where the 
Chepewyans collect copper. 

At ten, we had an aft wind, and the men 
who had been engaged in towing, re-em- 
barked. At twelve, we observed a lodge on 
the side of the river, and its inhabitants run- 
ning about in great confusion, or hurrying to 
the woods. Three men waited our arrival, 
287 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

though they remained at some distauce from 
us, with their bows and arrows ready to be 
employed; or at least, that appeared to be 
the idea they wished to convey to us, by con- 
tinually snapping the strings of the former, 
and the signs they made to forbid our ap- 
proach. The English chief, whose language 
they, in some degree understood, endeavoured 
to remove their distrust of us ; but till I went 
to them with a present of beads, they refused 
to have any communication with us. 

When they first perceived our sail, they 
took us for the Esquimaux Indians, who em- 
ploy a sail in their canoes. They were 
suspicious of our designs, and questioned us 
with a view to obtain some knowledge of 
them. On seeing us in possession of some 
of the clothes, bows, etc., which must have 
belonged to some of the Deguthee Denees, or 
Quarrellers, they imagined that we had killed 
some of them, and were bearing away the 
fruits of our victory. They appeared, indeed, 
to be of the same tribe, though they were 
afraid of acknowledging it. From their 
questions, it was evident that they had not 
received any notice of our being in those 
parts. 

They would not acknowledge that they had 

any women with them, though we had seen 

them running to the woods; but pretended 

that they had been left at a considerable dis- 

288 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

taiice from the river, with some relations, 
who were engaged in killing rein-deer. 
These people had been here but a short time, 
and their lodge was not yet completed ; nor 
had they any fish in a state of preparation 
for their provision. I gave them a knife and 
some beads for an horn-wedge or chisel, with 
which they split their canoe-wood. One of 
my Indians having broken his paddle, at- 
tempted to take one of theirs, which was im- 
mediately contested by its owner, and on my 
interfering to prevent this act of injustice, 
he manifested his gratitude to me on the oc- 
casion. We lost an hour and a half in this 
conference. 

The English chief was during the whole of 
the time in the woods, where some of the 
hidden property was discovered, but the 
women contrived to elude the search that was 
made after them. • Some of these articles 
were purloined, but I was ignorant of this 
circumstance till we had taken our departure, 
or I should have given an ample remunera- 
tion. Our chief expressed his displeasure at 
their running away to conceal themselves, 
their property, and their young women, in 
very bitter terms. He said his heart was 
against those slaves ; and complained aloud of 
his disappointment in coming so far without 
seeing the natives, and getting something 
from them. 

19 289 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

We employed the sail and the paddle since 
ten this morning, and pitched our tents at 
seven in the evening. We had no sooner en- 
camped than we were visited by an Indian 
whom we had seen before, and whose family 
was at a small distance up the river : at nine 
he left us. The weather was clear and 
serene. 

Saturday, 25. — We embarked this morning 
at a quarter past three, and at seven we 
passed the lodge of the Indian who had vis- 
ited us the preceding evening. There ap- 
peared to have been more than one family, 
and we naturally concluded that our visitor 
had made such an unfavourable report of us, 
as to induce his companions to fly on our ap- 
proach. Their fire was not extinguished, and 
they had left a considerable quantity of fish 
scattered about their dwelling. 

The weather was now very sultry ; but the 
current had relaxed of its force, so that the 
paddle was sufficient for our progress during 
the greatest part of the day. The inland 
part of the country is mountainous and the 
banks of the river low, but covered with 
wood, among which is the poplar, but of 
small growth, and the first which we had 
seen on our return. A pigeon also flew by 
us, and hares appeared to be in great plenty. 
We passed many Indian encampments which 
we did not see in our passage down the river. 
290 



NORTH WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

About seven the sky, to the Westward, be- 
came of a steel blue colour, with lightning 
and thunder. We accordingly landed to 
prepare ourselves against the coming storm ; 
but before we could erect our tents, it came 
on with such violence that we expected it to 
carry every thing before it. The ridge pole 
of my tent was broken in the middle, where 
it was sound, and nine inches and an half in 
circumference ; and we were obliged to throw 
ourselves flat on the ground to escape being 
wounded by the stones that were hurled 
about in the air like sand. The violence of 
the storm, however, subsided in a short time, 
but left the sky overcast with the appearance 
of rain. 

Sunday, 26. — It rained from the preceding 
evening to this morning, w^hen we embarked 
at four o'clock. At eight we landed at three 
large Indian lodges. Their inhabitants, who 
were asleep, expressed uncommon alarm and 
agitation when they were awakened by us, 
though most of them had seen us before. 
Their habitations were crowded with fish, 
hanging to dry in every part; but as we 
wanted some for present use, we sent their 
young men to visit the nets, and they re- 
turned with abundance of large white fish, to 
which the name has been given of poisson in- 
connu) some of a round shape, and green 
colour ; and a few white ones ; all which were 
291 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

very agreeable food. Some beads, and a few 
other trifles, were gratefully received in re- 
turn. These people are very fond of iron 
work of any kind, and my men purchased 
several of their articles for small pieces of 
tin. 

There were five or six persons whom we 
had not seen before ; and among them was a 
Dog-rib Indian, whom some private quarrel 
had driven from his country. The English 
chief understood him as well as one of his 
own nation, and gave the following account 
of their conversation : — 

He had been informed by the people with 
whom he now lives, the Hare Indians, that 
there is another river on the other side of the 
mountains to the South-West, which falls 
into the Belhoullay Teo, or White-man's 
Lake, in comparison of which that on whose 
banks we then were, was but a small stream ; 
that the natives were very large, and very 
wicked, and kill common men with their 
eyes ; that they make canoes larger than ours ; 
that those who inhabit the entrance of it kill 
a kind of beaver, the skin of which is almost 
red ; and that large canoes often frequent it. 
As there is no known communication by 
water with this river, the natives who saw it 
went over the mountains. 

As he mentioned that there were some 
beavers in this part of the countrj'^, I told him 
292 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

to hunt it, and desii-e the others to do the 
same, as well as the martens, foxes, beaver- 
eater or wolverine, &c., which they might 
carry to barter for iron with his own nation, 
who are supplied with goods by us, near their 
country. He was anxious to know whether 
we should return that way ; at the same time 
he informed us, that we should see but few 
of the natives along the river, as all the 
young men were engaged in killing rein-deer, 
near the Esquimaux Lake, which, he also 
said, was at no great distance. The latter 
he represented as very treacherous, and add- 
ed, that they had killed one of his people. 
He told us likewise, that some plan of re- 
venge was meditating, unless the offending 
party paid a sufficient price for the body of 
the murdered person. 

My Indians were very anxious to possess 
themselves of a woman that was with the na- 
tives, but as they were not willing to part 
with her, I interfered, to prevent her being 
taken by force ; indeed, I was obliged to ex- 
ercise the utmost vigilance, as the Indians 
who accompanied me were ever ready to take 
what they could from the natives, without 
making them any return. About twelve, we 
passed a river of some appearance, flowing 
from the Eastward. One of the natives who 
followed us, called it the Winter Road River. 
We did not find the stream strong to-day, 
293 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

along the shore, as there were many eddy 
currents ; we therefore employed the sail dur- 
ing some hours of it, and went on shore for 
the night at half past seven. 

Monday, 27. — The weather was now fine, 
and we renewed our voyage at half past two. 
At seven we landed where there were three 
families, situated close to the rapids. We 
found but few people ; for as the Indian who 
followed us yesterday had arrived here be- 
fore us, we supposed that the greater part 
had fled, on the intelligence which he gave 
of our approach. Some of these people we 
had seen before, when they told us that they 
had left their property at a lake in the neigh- 
bourhood, and had promised to fetch it be- 
fore our return ; but we now found them as 
unprovided as when we left them. They 
had plenty of fish, some of which was packed 
up in birch bark. 

During the time we remained with them, 
which was not more than two hours, I en- 
deavoured to obtain some additional intelli- 
gence respecting the river which had been 
mentioned on the preceding day; when they 
declared their total ignorance of it, but from 
the reports of others, as they had never been 
beyond the mountains, on the opposite side of 
their own river ; they had, however, been in- 
formed that it was larger than that which 
washed the banks whereon they lived, and 
204 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

that its course was towards the mid-day sun. 
They added, that there were people at a 
small distance up the river, who inhabited 
the opposite mountains, and had lately de- 
scended from them to obtain supplies of fish. 
These people, they suggested, must be well 
acquainted with the other river, which was 
the object of my inquiry. I engaged one of 
them, by a bribe of some beads, to describe 
the circumjacent country upon the sand. 
This singular map he unmediately undertook 
to delineate, and accordingly traced out a 
very long point of land between the rivers, 
though without paying the least attention to 
their courses, which he represented as run- 
ning into the great lake, at the extremity of 
which, as he had been told by Indians of 
other nations, there was a Belhoullay Couin, 
or White Man's Fort. This I took to be 
Unalascha Fort, and consequently the river 
to the West to be Cook's River; and that the 
body of water or sea into which this river 
discharges itself at Whale Island, communi- 
cates with Norton Sound. I made an advan- 
tageous proposition to this man to accompany 
me across the mountains to the other river, 
but he refused it. At the same time he rec- 
ommended me to the people already men- 
tioned, who were fishing in the neighbour- 
hood, as better qualified to assist me in the 
undertaking which I had proposed. 
295 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

One of this small company of natives was 
greviously afflicted with ulcers in his back, 
and the only attention which was paid to his 
miserable condition, as far at least as we 
could discover, proceeded from a woman, 
who carefully employed a bunch of feathers 
in preventing the flies from settling upon his 
sores. 

At ten this morning we landed near the 
lodges which had already been mentioned to 
us, and I ordered my people to make prep- 
aration for passing the remaining part of the 
day here, in order to obtain that familiarity 
with the natives which might induce them to 
afford me, without reserve, the information 
that I should require from them. This ob- 
ject, however, was in danger of being alto- 
gether frustrated, by a misunderstanding that 
had taken place between the natives and my 
young Indians, who had already arrived 
there. Before the latter could disembark, 
the former seized the canoe, and dragged it 
on shore, and in this act of violence the boat 
was broken, from the weight of the persons 
in it. This insult was on the point of being 
seriously revenged, when I arrived, to pre- 
vent the consequences of such a disposition. 
The variation of the compass was about 
twenty-nine degrees to the East. 

At four in the afternoon I ordered my in- 
terpreter to harangue the natives, assembled 
296 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

in council; but his long discourse obtained 
little satisfactory intelligence from them. 
Their account of the river to the Westward, 
was similar to that which he had already re- 
ceived : and their description of the inhabi- 
tants of that country was still more absurd 
and ridiculous. They represented them as 
being of a gigantic stature, and adorned with 
wings ; which, however, they never employed 
in flying. That they fed on large birds, which 
they killed with the greatest ease, though 
common men would be certain victims of their 
ferocity if they ventured to approach them. 
They also described the people that inhabited 
the mouth of the river as possessing the ex- 
traordinary power of killing with their eyes, 
and devouring a large beaver at a single meal. 
They added that canoes of very large dimen- 
sions visited that place. They did not, how- 
ever, relate these strange circumstances from 
their own knowledge, but on the reports of 
other tribes, as they themselves never ven- 
tured to proceed beyond the first mountains, 
where they went in search of the small white 
buffaloes, as the inhabitants of the other side 
endeavour to kill them whenever they meet. 
They likewise mentioned that the sources of 
those streams which are tributary to both the 
great rivers are separated by the mountains. 
It appeared to us, however, that these people 
knew more about the country than they chose 
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JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

to communicate, or at least reached me, as 
the interpreter, who had long been tired of 
the voyage, might conceal such a part of their 
communications as, in his opinion, would in- 
duce me to follow new routes, or extend my 
excursions. 

No sooner was the conference concluded, 
than they began to dance, which is their fa- 
vourite, and, except jumping, their only 
amusement. In this pastime old and young, 
male and female, continued their exertions, 
till their strength was exhausted. This exer- 
cise was accompanied by loud imitations of 
the various noises produced by the rein-deer, 
the bear, and the wolf. 

When they had finished their antics, I de- 
sired the English chief to renew the former 
subjects; which he did without success. I 
therefore assumed an angry air, expressed 
my suspicions that they withheld their infor- 
mation, and concluded with a menace, that if 
they did not give me all the satisfaction in 
their power, I would force one of them along 
with me to-morrow, to point out the other 
river. On this declaration, they all, at one 
and the same moment, became sick, and an- 
swered in a very faint tone, that they knew 
no more than they had already communicated, 
and that they should die if I took any of 
them away. They began to persuade my in- 
terpeter to remain with them, as they loved 
298 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

him as well as they did themselves, and that 
he would be killed if he continued with me. 
Nor did this proposition, aided as it was by 
the solicitation of his women, fail of produc- 
ing a considerable effect upon him, though 
he endeavoured to conceal it from me. 

I now found that it would be fruitless for 
me to expect any accounts of the country, or 
the other great river, till I got to the river of 
the Bear Lake, where I expected to find some 
of the natives who promised to wait for us 
there. These people had actually mentioned 
this river to me when we passed them, but I 
then paid no attention to that circumstance, 
as I imagined it to be either a misunderstand- 
ing of my interpreter, or that it was an in- 
vention which, with their other lies, might 
tend to prevent me from proceeding down 
their river. 

We were plentifully supplied with fish, as 
well dry as fresh, by these people ; they also 
gathered as many whortle berries as we chose, 
for which we paid with the usual articles of 
beads, awls, knives, and tin. I purchased a 
few beaver- skins of them, which, according 
to their accounts, are not very numerous in 
this country ; and that they do not abound in 
moose-deer and buffaloes. They were alarmed 
for some of their young men, who were kill- 
ing geese higher up the river, and entreat- 
ed us to do them no harm. About sunset I 
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JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

was under the necessity of shooting one of 
their dogs, as we could not keep those ani- 
mals from our baggage. It was in vain that 
I had remonstrated on this subject, so that I 
was obliged to commit the act which has been 
just m-entioned. When these people heard 
the report of the pistol, and saw the dog dead, 
they were seized with a very general alarm, 
and the women took their children on their 
backs and ran into the woods. I ordered the 
cause of this act of severity to be explained, 
with the assurance that no injury would be 
offered to themselves. The woman, however, 
to whom the dog belonged, was very much 
affected, and declared that the loss of five 
children, during the preceding winter, had 
not affected her so much as the death of this 
animal. But her grief was not of very long 
duration ; and a few beads, &c. , soon assuaged 
her sorrow. But as they can without diffi- 
culty get rid of their affliction, they can 
with equal ease assume it, and feign sickness 
if it be necessary with the same versatility. 
When we arrived this morning, we found the 
women in tears, from an apprehension that 
we were come to take them away. To the 
eye of an European they certainly were ob- 
jects of disgust ; but there were those among 
my party who observed some hidden charms 
in these females which rendered them objects 
of desire, and means were found, I believe, 
300 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

that very soon dissipated their alarms and 
subdued their coyness. 

On the upper part of the beach, liquorice 
grew in great abundance and it was now in 
blossom. I pulled up some of the roots, 
"which were large and long; but the natives 
were ignorant of its qualities, and considered 
it as a weed of no use or value. 

Tuesday, 28. — At four this morning I or- 
dered my people to prepare for our departure ; 
and while they were loading the canoe, I 
went with the English chief to visit the 
lodges, but the greater part of their inhabi- 
tants had quitted them during the night, and 
those that remained pretended sickness and 
refused to rise. When, however, they were 
convinced that we did not mean to take any 
of them with us, their sickness abandoned 
them, and when we had embarked, they came 
forth from their huts, to desire that we would 
visit their nets, which were at a small dis- 
tance up the river, and take all the fish we 
might find in them. We accordingly availed 
ourselves of this permission, and took as 
many as were necessary for our own supply. 

We landed shortly after where there were 
two more lodges, which were full of fish, but 
without any inhabitants, who were probably 
with the natives whom we had just left. My 
Indians, in rummaging these places, found 
several articles which they proposed to take ; 
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' JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

I therefore gave beads and awls to be left as 
the purchase of them; but this act of justice 
they were not able to comprehend, as the 
people themselves were not present. I took 
up a net and left a large knife in the place of 
it. It was about four fathoms long, and 
thirty-two meshes in depth; these nets are 
much more convenient to set in the eddy cur- 
rent than our long ones. This is the place 
that the Indians call a rapid, though we went 
up it all the way with the paddle ; so that 
the current could not be so strong here, as in 
many other parts of the river ; indeed, if it 
were so, the difficulty of towing would be 
almost insuperable, as in many parts, the 
rocks, which are of a great height, and rather 
project over the water, leave no shore between 
them and the stream. These precipices- 
abound in swallows' nests. The weather was 
now very sultry, and at eleven we were under 
the necessity of landing to gum our canoe. 

In about an hour we set forward, and at 
one in the afternoon, went on shore at a fire, 
which we supposed to have been kindled by 
the young men, who, as we had been already 
informed, were hunting geese. Our hunters 
found their canoe and the fowl they had got, 
secreted in the woods; and soon after, the 
people themselves, whom they brought to the 
water side. Out of two hundred geese, we 
picked thirty-six which were eatable; the 
302 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

rest were putrid, and emitted a horrid stench. 
They had been killed some time without hav- 
ing been gutted, and in this state of loathsome 
rottenness, we have every reason to su|)[' >.-. ; 
they are eaten by the natives. We paid for 
those which we had taken, and departed. 
At seven in the evening, the weather became 
cloudy and overcast ; at eight we encamped ; 
at nine it began to thunder with great vio- 
lence ; a heavy rain succeeded, accompanied 
with a hurricane, that blew down our tents, 
and threatened to carry away the canoe, 
which had been fastened to some trees with 
a cod-line. The storm lasted two hours, and 
deluged us with wet. 

Wednesday/ J 29. — Yesterday the weather 
was cloudy, and the heat insupportable ; and 
now we could not put on clothes enough to 
keep us warm. We embarked at a quarter 
past four with an aft wind, which drove us 
on at a great rate, though the current is very 
strong. At ten we came to the other rapid, 
which we got up with the line on the West 
side, where we found it much stronger than 
when we went down ; the water had also fallen 
at least five feet since that time, so that sev- 
eral shoals appeared in the river which we 
had not seen before. One of my hunters 
narrowly escaped being drowned in crossing 
a river that falls in from the Westward, and 
is the most considerable, except the mountain 
303 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

river, that flows in this direction. We had 
strong Northerly and cold wind throughout 
the whole of the day, and took our station 
for the night at a quarter past eight. We 
killed a goose and caught some young ones. 

Thursday, 30. — We renewed our voyage at 
four this morning, after a very rainy night. 
The weather was cloudy, but the cold had 
moderated, and the wind was North-West. 
TVe were enabled to employ the sail during 
part of the day, and encamped at about seven 
in the evening. We killed eleven old geese 
and forty young ones which had just begun 
to fly. The English chief was very much irri- 
tated against one of his young men : that 
jealousy occasioned this uneasiness, and that 
it was not without very sufficient cause, was 
all I could discover. For the last two or 
three days we had eaten the liquorice root, 
of which there is a great abundance on the 
banks of the river. We found it a powerful 
astringent. 

Friday y 81. — The rain was continual 
throughout the night, and did not subside till 
nine this morning, when we renewed our pro- 
gress. The wind and weather the same as 
yesterday. About three in the afternoon it 
cleared up and the wind died away, when 
it became warm. At five the wind veered to 
the East, and brought cold along with it. 
There were plenty of whortle berries, raspber- 
304 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

ries, and a berry called poire, which grows in 
the greatest abundance. We were very much 
impeded in our way by shoals of sand and 
small stones which render the water shallow 
at a distance from the shore. In other places 
the bank of the river is lofty : it is formed of 
black earth and sand, £aid, as it is continu- 
ally falling, displayed to ns, in some parts, a 
face of solid ice, to within a foot of the sur- 
face. We finished this day's voyage at a 
quarter before eight, and in the course of it 
killed seven geese. 

We now had recourse to our corn, for we 
had only consumed three days of our original 
provision since we began to mount the cur- 
rent. It was my intention to have ascended 
the river on the South side from the last 
rapid, to discover if there were any rivers of 
consequence that flow from the Westward; 
but the sand-banks were so numerous and the 
current so strong, that I was compelled to 
traverse to the opposite side, where the eddy 
currents are very frequent, which gave us an 
opportunity of setting our nets and making, 
much more headway. 
20 



305 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 



CHAPTER VII. 

AUGUST, 1789. 

Saturday, 1. — We embarked at three this 
morning, the weather being clear and cold, 
with the wind at South-East. At three in 
the afternoon we traversed and landed to take 
the canoe in tow : here was an encampment 
of the natives, which we had reason to sup- 
pose they had quitted the preceding day. At 
five we perceived a family, consisting of a 
man, two women, and as many children, sta- 
tioned by the side of the water, whom we 
had not seen before. They informed us, that 
they had but few fish, and that none of their 
friends were in the neighbourhood, except 
the inhabitants of one lodge on the other side 
of the river, and a man who belonged to 
them, and who was now occupied in hunting. 
I now found my interpreter very unwilling to 
ask such questions as were dictated to him, 
from the apprehension, as I imagined, that 
I might obtain such intelligence as would pre- 
vent him from seeing Athabasca this season. 
We left him with the Indian, and pitched 
our tents at the same place where we had 
passed the night on the fifth of last month. 
The English chief came along with the Indian 
306 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

to our fire ; and the latter informed us that 
the native who went down part of the river 
with us had passed there, and that we should 
meet with three lodges of his tribe above the 
river of the Bear Lake. Of the river to the 
Westward he knew nothing, but from the re- 
lation of others. This was the first night 
since our departure from Athabasca, when it 
was sufficiently dark to render the stars 
visible. 

Sunday y 2. — We set off at three this morn- 
ing with the towing-line. I walked with my 
Indians, as they went faster than the canoe, 
and particularly as I suspected that they 
wanted to arrive at the huts of the natives 
before me. In our way, I observed several 
small springs of mineral water running from 
the foot of the mountain, and along the beach 
I saw several lumps of iron ore. When we 
came to the river of the Bear Lake, I ordered 
one of the young Indians to wait for my 
canoe, and I took my place in their small 
canoe. This river is about two hundred and 
fifty yards broad at this place, the water 
clear and of a greenish colour. When I 
landed on the opposite shore, I discovered 
that the natives had been there very lately 
from the print of their feet in the sand. We 
continued walking till five in the afternoon, 
when we saw several smokes along the shore. 
As we naturally concluded, that these were 
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JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

certain indications where we should meet the 
natives who were the objects of our search 
we quickened our pace ; but, in our progress, 
experienced a very sulphurous smell, and at 
length discovered that the whole bank was 
on fire for a very considerable distance. It 
proved to be a coal mine, to which the fire 
had communicated from an old Indian en- 
campment. The beach was covered with 
coals, and the English chief gathered some of 
the softest he could find, as a black dye ; it 
being the mineral, as he informed me, with 
which the natives render their quills black. 

Here we waited for the large canoe, which 
arrived an hour after us. At half past ten 
we saw several Indian marks, which consisted 
of pieces of bark fixed on poles, and pointing 
to the woods, opposite to which is an old 
beaten road, that bore the marks of being 
lately frequented ; the beach also was covered 
with tracks. At a small distance were the 
poles of five lodges standing ; where we landed 
and unloaded our canoe. I then despatched 
one of my men and two young Indians to see 
if they could find any natives within a day's 
march of us. I wanted the English chief to 
go, but he pleaded fatigue, and that it would 
be of no use. This was the first time he had 
refused to comply with my desire, and jeal- 
ousy, I believe, was the cause of it in the 
present instance ; though I had taken every 
308 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

precaution that he should not have cause to 
be jealous of the Canadians. There was not, 
at this time, the least appearance of snow on 
the opposite mountains, though they were 
almost covered with it, when we passed be- 
fore. Set two nets, and at eleven o'clock at 
night the men and Indians returned. They 
had been to their first encampment, where 
there were four fires, and which had been 
quitted a short time before ; so that they were 
obliged to make the circuit of several small 
lakes, which the natives cross with their 
canoes. This encampment was on the bor- 
ders of a lake which was too large for them 
to venture round it, so that they did not pro- 
ceed any further. They saw several beavers 
and beaver lodges in those small lakes. They 
killed one of these animals whose fur began 
to get long, a sure indication that the fall of 
the year approaches. They also saw many 
old tracks of the moose and reindeer. This, 
is the time when the rein-deer leave the 
plains to come to the woods, as the mosqui- 
toes begin to disappear ; I, therefore, appre- 
hended that we should not find a single In- 
dian on the river side, as they would be in or 
about the mountains setting snares to take 
them. 

Monday, 3. — We proceeded with a strong 
Westerly wind, at four this morning, the 
weather being cloudy and cold. At twelve it 

ao9 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

cleared up and became fine ; the current also 
increased. The water had fallen so much 
since our passage down the river, that here, 
as in other places, we discovered many shoals 
which were not then visible. We killed sev- 
eral geese of a larger size than tliose which 
we had generally seen. Several Indian en- 
campments were seen along the river, and we 
landed at eight for the night. 

Tuesday, 4- — ^^ four in the morning we re- 
newed our course, when it was fine and calm. 
The night had been cold and a very heavy 
dew had fallen. At nine we were obliged to 
land in order to gum the canoe, when the 
weather became extremely warm. Numerous 
tracks of rein-deer appeared on the side of 
the river. At half past five we took our sta- 
tion for the night, and set the nets. The cur- 
rent was very strong all day, and we found it 
very difficult to walk along the beach, from 
the large stones which were scattered over it. 

Wednesday, 5. — We raised our nets, but 
had not the good fortune to take a single fish. 
The water was now become so low that the 
edd}' currents would not admit of setting 
them. The current had not relaxed its 
strength ; and the difficulty of walking along 
the beach was continued. The air was now 
become so cold, that our exercise, violent as 
it was, scarce kept us warm. We passed sev- 
eral points which we should not have accom- 
310 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.- 

plished, if the canoe had been loaded. We 
were very much fatigued, and at six were 
glad to conclude our toilsome march. The 
Indians killed two geese. The women, who 
did not quit the canoe, were continually em- 
ployed in making shoes of moose-skin, for 
the men, as a pair did not last more than a 
day. 

Thursday, 6. — The rain prevented us from 
proceeding till half past six, when we had a 
strong aft wind, which, aided by the paddles, 
drove us on at a great rate. We encamped 
at six to wait for our Indians, whom we had 
not seen since the morning ; and at half past 
seven they arrived very much dissatisfied with 
their day's journey. Two days had now 
elapsed, since we had seen the least appear- 
ance of Indian habitations. 

Friday, 7. — We embarked at half past 
three, and soon after perceived two rein-deer 
on the beach before us. We accordingly 
checked our course ; but our Indians, in con- 
tending who should be the first to get near 
these animals, alarmed and lost them. We, 
however, killed a female rein-deer, and from 
the wounds in her hind legs, it was supposed 
that she had been pursued by wolves, who 
had devoured her young one : her udder was 
full of milk, and one of the young Indians 
poured it among some boiled corn, which he 
ate with great delight, esteeming it a very 
311 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

delicious food. At five in the afternoon we 
saw an animal running along the beach, but 
could not determine whether it was a grey 
fox or a dog. In a short time, we went 
ashore for the night, at the entrance of a 
small river, as I thought there might be some 
natives in the vicinity of the place. I or- 
dered my hunters to put their fusees in or- 
der, and gave them ammunition to proceed 
on a hunting party the next day ; they were 
also mstructed to discover if there were any 
natives in the neighbouring mountains. I 
found a small canoe at the edge of the woods, 
which contained a paddle and a bow : it had 
been repaired this spring, and the workman- 
ship of the bark excelled any that I had yet 
seen. We saw several encampments in the 
course of the day. The current of the river 
was very strong, and along the points equal 
to rapids. 

Saturday, 8. — The rain was very violent 
throughout the night, and continued till the 
afternoon of this day, when the weather be- 
gan to clear, with a strong, cold, and West- 
erly wind. At three the Indians proceeded 
on the hunting expedition, and at eight they 
returned without having met with the least 
success; though they saw numerous tracks 
of the rein-deer. They came to an old beaten 
road, which one of them followed for some 
time; but it did not appear to have been 
312 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

lately frequented. The rain now returned, 
and continued till the morning. 

Sunday, 9. — We renewed our voyage at 
half past three, the weather being cold and 
cloudy ; but at ten it became clear and mod- 
erate. We saw another canoe at the outside 
of the wood, and one of the Indians killed a 
dog, which was in a meagre, emaciated con- 
dition. We perceived various places where 
the natives had made their fires; for these 
people reside but a short time near the river, 
and remove from one bank to the other, as it 
suits their purposes. We saw a path which 
was connected with another on the opposite 
side of the river. The water had risen con- 
siderably since last night, and there had been 
a strong current throughout the day. At 
seven we made to the shore and encamped. 

Monday, 10. — At three this morning we re- 
turned to our canoe; the weather fine and 
clear, with a light wind from the South-East. 
The Indians were before us in pursuit of 
game. At ten we landed opposite to the 
mountains which we had passed on the second 
of the last month, in order to ascertain the 
variation of the compass at this place: but 
this was accomplished in a very imperfect 
manner, as I could not depend on my watch. 
One of the hunters joined us here, fatigued 
and unsuccessful. As these mountains are 
the last of any considerable magnitude on the 
313 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

South- West side of the river, I ordered my 
men to cross to that side of it, that I might 
ascend one of them. It was near foui in the 
afternoon when I landed, and I lost no time 
in proceeding to the attainment of my object. 
I was accompanied only by a young Indian, 
as the curiosity of my people was subdued by 
the fatigue they had undergone ; and we soon 
had reason to believe that we should pay 
dearly for the indulgence of our own. The 
wood, which was chiefly of spruce firs, was so 
thick that it was with great difficulty we made 
our way through it. When we had walked 
upwards of an hour, the under-wood de- 
creased, while the white birch and poplar 
were the largest and tallest of their kind that 
I had ever seen. The ground now began to 
rise, and was covered with small pines, and 
at length we got the first view of the moun- 
tains since we had left the canoe ; as they ap- 
peared to be no nearer to us, though we had 
been walking for three hours, than when we 
had seen them from the river, my companion 
expressed a very great anxiety to return ; his 
shoes and leggins were torn to pieces, and he 
was alarmed at the idea of passing through 
such bad roads during the night. I persisted, 
however, in proceeding, with a determination 
to pass the night on the mountains and return 
on the morrow. As we approached thei^, the 
ground was quite marshy, and we waded in 
314 



I 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

water and grass up to the knees, till we came 
within a mile of them, when I suddenly sunk 
up to my arm-pits, and it was with some dif- 
ficulty that I extricated myself from this dis- 
agreeable situation. I now found it impos- 
sible to proceed ; to cross this marshy ground 
in a straight line was impracticable, and it 
extended so far to the right and left, that I 
could not attempt to make the circuit; I 
therefore determined to return to the canoe, 
and arrived there about midnight, very much 
fatigued with this fruitless jorney. 

Tuesday, 11. — We observed several tracks 
along the beach, and an encampment at the 
edge of the woods, which appeared to be five 
or six days old. We should have continued 
our route along this side of the river, but we 
had not seen our hunters since yesterday 
morning. We accordingly embarked before 
three, and at five traversed the river, when 
we saw two of them coming down in search 
of us. They had killed no other animals 
than one beaver, and a few hares. According 
to their account, the woods were so thick that 
it was impossible to follow the game through 
them. They had seen several of the natives' 
encampments, at no great distance from the 
river ; and it was their opinion that they had 
discovered us in our passage down it, and had 
taken care to avoid us ; which accounted for 
the small number we had seen on our return. 
315 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

I requested the English chief to return 
with me to the other side of the river, in order 
that he might proceed to discover the natives, 
whose tracks and habitations we had seen 
there ; but he was backward in complying with 
my desire, and proposed to send the young 
men ; but I could not trust to them, and at 
the same time was become rather doubtful of 
him. They were still afraid lest I should 
obtain such accounts of the other river as 
would induce me to travel overland to it, and 
that they should be called upon to accompany 
me. I was, indeed, informed by one of my 
own people, that the English chief, his wives 
and companions, had determned to leave me 
on this side of the Slave Lake, in order to go 
to the country of the Beaver Indians, and 
that about the middle of the winter he would 
return to that lake, where he had appointed 
to meet some of his relatons, who, during the 
last spring, had been engaged in war. 

We now traversed the river, and continued 
to track the Indians till past twelve, when 
we lost all traces of them ; in consequence, as 
we imagined, of their having crossed to the 
Eastern side. We saw several dogs on both 
shores ; and one of the young Indians killed 
a wolf, which the men ate with great satis- 
faction : we shot, also, fifteen young geese 
that were now beginning to fly. It was eight 
when we took our evening station, having 
316 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

lost four hours in making our traverses. 
There was no interruption of the fine weather 
during the course of this day. 

Wednesday, 12. — We proceeded on our 
voyage at three this morning, and despatched 
the two young Indians across the river, that 
we might not miss any of the natives that 
should be on the banks of it. We saw many 
places where fires had been lately made along 
the beach, as well as fire running in the 
woods. At four we arrived at an encamp- 
ment which had been left this morning. 
Their tracks were observable in several places 
in the woods, and as it might be presumed 
that they could not be at any great distance, 
it was proposed to the chief to accompany me 
in search of them. We accordingly, though 
with some hesitation on his part, penetrated 
several miles into the woods, but without dis- 
covering the objects of our research. The 
fire had spread all over the country, and had 
burned about three inches of the black, light 
soil, which covered a body of cold clay, that 
was so hard as not to receive the least im- 
pression of our feet. At ten we returned 
from our unsuccessful excursion. In the 
mean time the hunters had killed seven 
geese. There were several showers of rain, 
accompanied with gusts of wind and thunder. 
The nets had been set during our absence. 

Thursday^ IS. — The nets Avere taken up, 
317 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

but not one fish was found in them ; and at 
half past three we continued our route , with 
very favourable weather. We passed f everal 
places, where fires had been made by l^e na- 
tives, and many tracks were perceptible along 
the beach. At seven we were opposite the 
island where our pemmican had been con- 
cealed : two of the Indians were accordingly 
despatched in search of it, and it proved very 
acceptable, as it rendered us more independ- 
ent of the provisions which were to be ob- 
tained by our fowling pieces, and qualified 
us to get out of the river without that delay 
which our hunters would otherwise have re- 
quired. In a short time we perceived a smoke 
on the shore to the South-West, at the dis- 
tance of three leagues, which did not appear 
to proceed from any running fire. The In- 
dians, who were a little way ahead of us, did 
not discover it, being engaged in the pursuit 
of a flock of geese, at which they fired several 
shots, when the smoke immediately disap- 
peared ; and in a short time we saw several 
of the natives run along the shore, some of 
whom entered their canoes. Though we were 
almost opposite to them, we could not cross 
the river without going further up it, from 
the strength of the current ; I therefore or- 
dered our Indians to make every possible ex- 
ertion, in order to speak with them, and wait 
our arrival. But as soon as our small canoe 
318 



NORTH-WEST CONTIKENT OF AMERICA. 

struck off, we could perceive the poor af- 
frighted people hasten to the shore, and after 
drawin^c their canoes on the beach, hurry into 
the woods. It was past ten before we landed 
at the -place where they had deserted their 
canoes, which were four in number. They 
were soj terrified that they had left several 
articles on the beach. I was very much dis- 
pleased with my Indians, who instead of 
seeking the natives, were dividing their prop- 
erty. I rebuked the English chief with some 
severity for his conduct, and immediately or- 
dered him, his young men, and my own peo- 
ple, to go in search of the fugitivs, but their 
fears had made them too nimble for us, and 
we could not overtake them. We saw several 
dogs in the woods, and some of them followed 
us to our canoe. 

The English chief was very much displeased 
at my reproaches, and expressed himself to 
me in person to that effect. This was the 
very opportunity which I wanted, to make 
him acquainted with my dissatisfaction for 
some time past. I stated to him that I had 
come a great way, and at a very considerable 
expense, without having completed the object 
of my wishes, and that I suspected he had 
concealed from me a principal part of what 
the natives had told him respecting the coun- 
try, lest he should be obliged to follow me : 
that his reason for not killing game, &c., was 
319 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

liis jealousy, which likewise prevented him. 
from looking after the natives as he ought ; 
and that we had never given him any cause 
for any suspicions of us. These suggestions 
irritated him in a very high degree, and he 
accused me of speaking ill words to him ; he 
denied the charge of jealousy, and declared 
that he did not conceal any thing from us ; 
an that as to the ill success of their hunting, 
it arose from the nature of the country, and 
the scarcity, which had lutherto appeared, of 
animals in it. He concluded by informing 
me that he would not accompany me any 
further: that though he was without ammu- 
nition, he could live in the same manner as 
the slaves (the name given to the inhabitants 
of that part of the country), and that he 
would remain among them. His harangue 
was succeeded by a loud and bitter lamenta- 
tion ; and his relations assisted the vocifera- 
tions of his grief ; though they said that their 
tears flowed for their dead friends. I did 
not interrupt their grief for two hours, but as 
I could not well do without them, I was at 
length obliged to soothe it, and induce the 
chief to change his resolution, which he did, 
but with great apparent reluctance ; when we 
embarked as we had hitherto done. 

The articles which the fugitives had left be- 
hind them, on the present occasion, were 
bows, arrows, snares for moose and rein-deer, 
320 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA, 

and for hares ; to these may be added a few 
dishes, made of bark, some skins of the mar- 
ten and the beaver, and old beaver robes, 
with a small robe made of the skin of the 
lynx. Their canoes were coarsely made of 
the bark of the spruce-fir, and will carry two 
or three people. I ordered my men to remove 
them to the shade, and gave most of the other 
articles to the young Indians. The English 
chief would not accept of any of them. In 
the place, and as the purchase of them, I left 
some cloth, some small knives, a file, two fire- 
steels, a comb, rings, with beads and awls. 
I also ordered a marten skin to be placed on 
a proper mould, and a beaver skin to be 
stretched on a frame, to which I tied a 
scraper. The Indians were of opinion that 
all these articles would be lost, as the na- 
tivs were so much frightened that they would 
never return. Here we lost six hours ; and 
on our quitting the place, three of the dogs 
which I have already mentioned followed us 
along the beach. 

We pitched our tents at half past eight, at 
the entrance of the river of the mountain; 
and while the people were unloading the 
canoe, I took a walk along the beach, and on 
the shoals, which being uncovered since we 
passed down, by the sinking of the waters, 
were now white with a saline substance. I 
sent for the English chief to sup with me, 
21 321 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

and a dram or two dispelled all his heart- 
burning and discontent. He informed me 
that it was a custom with the Chepewyan 
chiefs to go to war after they had shed tears, 
in order to wipe away the disgrace attached 
to such a feminine weakness, and that in the 
ensuing spring he should not fail to execute 
his design ; at the same time he declared his 
intention to continue v/ith us as long as I 
should want him. I took care that he should 
carry some liquid consolation to his lodge, to 
prevent the return of his chagrin. The 
weather was fine, and the Indians killed three 
geese. 

Friday, IJ/., — At a quarter before four this 
morning, we returned to our canoe, and went 
about two miles up the river of the moun- 
tains. Fire was in the ground on each side of 
it. In traversing, I took soundings, and 
found five, four and an half, and three and 
an half fathoms water. Its stream was very 
muddy, and formed a cloudy streak along the 
water of the great river, on the West side to 
the Eastern rapid, where the waters of the 
two rivers at length blend in one. It was im- 
possible not to consider it as an extraordinary 
circumstance, that the current of the former 
river should not incorporate with that of the 
latter, but flow, as it were, in distinct streams 
at so great a distance, and till the contracted 
state of the channel unites them. We passed 
322 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

several encampments of the natives, and a 
river which flowed in from the North, that 
had the appearance of being navigable. We 
concluded our voyage of this day at half past 
five in the afternoon. There were plenty of 
berries, which my people called poires : they 
are of a purple hue, somewhat bigger than a 
pea, and of a luscious taste ; there were also 
gooseberries, and a few strawberries. 

Saturday^ 15. — We continued our course 
from three in the morning till half past five 
in the afternoon. We saw several encamp- 
ments along the beach, till it became too nar- 
row to admit them ; when the banks rose into 
a considerable degree of elevation, and there 
were more eddy currents. The Indians killed 
twelve geese, and berries were collected in 
great abundance. The weather was sultry 
throughout the day. 

Sunday, 16. — We continued our voyage at 
a quarter before four, and in five hours passed 
the place where we had been stationed on the 
13th of June. Here the river widened, and 
its shores became flat. The land on the 
North side is low, composed of a black soil, 
mixed with stones, but agreeably covered 
with the aspen, the poplar, the white birch, 
the spruce-fir, &c. The current was so mod- 
erate, that we proceeded upon it almost as 
fast as in dead water. At twelve we passed 
an encampment of three fires, which was the 
323 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

only one we saw in the course of the day. 
The weather was the same as yesterday. 

Monday, 17. — We proceeded at half past 
three ; and saw three successive encampments. 
From the peculiar structure of the huts, we 
imagined that some of the Ked-Knife Indians 
had been in this part of the country, though 
it is not usual for them to come this way. I 
had last night ordered the young Indians to 
precede us, for the purpose of hunting, and 
at ten we overtook them. They had killed 
five young swans ; and the English chief pre- 
sented us with an eagle, three cranes, a small 
beaver, and two geese. We encamped at 
seven this evening on the same spot which 
had been our resting-place on the 29th of 
June. 

Tuesday f 18. — At four this morning I 
equipped all the Indians for an hunting ex- 
cursion, and sent them onward, as our stock 
of provision was nearl}'- exhausted. We fol- 
lowed at half past six, and crossed over to the 
North shore, where the land is low and 
scarcely visible in the horizon. It was near 
twelve when we arrived. I now got an ob- 
servation, when it was 61. 33. North latitude. 
We were near five miles to the North of the 
main channel of the river. The fresh tracks 
and beds of buffaloes were very perceptible. 

Near this place a river flowed in from the 
Horn Mountains, which are at no great dis- 
324 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

tance. We landed at five in the afternoon, 
and before the canoe was unloaded, the Eng- 
lish chief arrived with the tongue of a cow, 
or female buffalo, when four men and the In- 
dians were despatched for the flesh ; but they 
did not return till it was dark. They in- 
formed me, that they had seen several human 
tracks in the sand on the opposite island. 
The fine weather continued without interrup- 
tion. 

Wednesdaijj 19. — The Indians were again 
sent forward in pursuit of game ; and some 
time being employed in gumming the canoe, 
we did not embark till half past five, and at 
nine we landed to wait the return of the 
hunters. I here found the variation of the 
compass to be about twenty degrees East. 

The people made themselves paddles and 
repaired the canoe. It is an extraordinary 
circumstance for which I do not pretend to 
account, that there is some peculiar quality 
in the water of this river, which corrodes 
wood, from the destructive effect it had on 
the paddles. The hunters arrived at a late 
hour, without having seen any large animals. 
Their booty consisted only of three swans and 
as many geese. The women were employed 
in gathering cranberries and crowberries, 
which were found in great abundance. 

Thursday y W. — We embarked at four 
o'clock, and took the North side of the 
325 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

channel, though the current was on that side 
much stronger, in order to take a view of the 
river, which had been mentioned to me in our 
passage downwards, as flowing from the 
country of the Beaver Indians, and which fell 
in hereabouts. We could not, however, dis- 
cover it, and it is probable that the account 
was referable to the river which we had 
passed on Tuesday. The current was very 
strong, and we crossed over to an island op- 
posite to us ; here it was still more impetu- 
ous, and assumed the hurry of a rapid. We 
found an awl and a paddle on the side of the 
water ; the former we knew to belong to the 
Knisteneaux : I supposed it to be the chief 
Merde-d'our's and his party, who went to 
war last spring, and had taken this route on 
their return to Athabasca. Nor is it improb- 
able that they may have been the cause that 
we saw so few of the natives on the banks of 
this river. The weather was raw and cloudy, 
and formed a very unpleasant contrast to the 
warm, sunny days, which immediately pre- 
ceded it. We took up our abode for the 
night at lialf past seven, on the Northern 
shore, where the adjacent country is both low 
and fiat. The Indians killed five young 
swans, and a beaver. There was an appear- 
ance of rain. 

Friday, 21. — The weather was cold, with a 
strong Easterly wind and frequent showers, 
S26 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

so that we were detained in our station. In 
the afternoon the Indians got on the track of 
a moose-deer, but were not so fortunate as to 
overtake it. 

Saturday, 22. — The wind veered round to 
the Westward, and continued to blow strong 
and cold. We, however, renewed our voyage, 
and in three hours reached the entrance of 
the Slave Lake, under half sail; with the 
paddle, it would have taken us at least eight 
hours. The Indians did not arrive till four 
hours after us ; but the wind was so violent, 
that it was not expedient to venture into the 
lake ; we therefore set a net, and encamped 
for the night. The women gathered large 
quantities of the fruit already mentioned, 
called Pathagomenan, and cranberries, crow- 
berries, mooseberries, &c. The Indians killed 
two swans and three geese. 

Sunday, 23. — The net produced but five 
small pike, and at live we embarked, and en- 
tered the lake by the same channel through 
which we had passed from it. The South- 
West side would have been the shortest, but 
we were not certain of there being plenty of 
fish along the coast, and we were sure of 
finding abundance of them in the course we 
preferred. Besides, I expected to find my 
people at the place where I left them, as they 
had received orders to remain there till the 
fall. 

327 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

We paddled a long way into a deep bay to 
get the wind, and having left our mast be- 
hind us, we landed to cut another. We then 
hoisted sail, and were driven on at a great 
rate. At twelve the v>^ind and swell were 
augmented to such a degree, that our under 
yard broke, but luckily the mast thwart re- 
sisted, till we had time to fasten down the 
yard with a pole, withe ut lowering sail. 
We took in a large quantity of water, and 
had our mast given way, in all probability, 
we should have filled and sunk. Our course 
continued to be very dangerous, along a flat 
lee-shore, without being able to land till 
three in the afternoon. Two men were con- 
tinually employed in bailing out the water 
which we took in on all sides. We fortu- 
nately doubled a point that screened us from 
the wind and swell, and encamped for the 
night, in order to wait for our Indians. AVe 
then set our nets, made a yard and mast, and 
gummed the canoe. On visiting the nets, we 
found six white fish, and two pike. The 
women gathered cranberries and crowberries 
in great plenty; and as the night came on, 
the weather became more moderate. 

Monday, 24- — Our nets this morning pro- 
duced fourteen white fish, ten pikes, and a 
couple of trouts. At five we embarked with a 
light breeze from the South, when we hoisted 
sail, and proceeded slowly, as our Indians 
328 



:north-west continent of America. 

liad not come up with us. At eleven we went 
on shore to prepare the kettle, and dry the 
nets; at one we were again on the water. 
At four in the afternoon, we perceived a large 
canoe with a sail, and two small ones ahead ; 
we soon came up with them, when they 
proved to be M. Le Koux and an Indian, with 
his family, who were on a hunting party, and 
had been out twenty-five days. It was his 
intention to have gone as far as the river, to 
leave a letter for me, to inform me of his 
situation. He had seen no more Indians 
where I had left him ; but had made a 
voyage to Lac la Marte, where he met eigh- 
teen small canoes of the Slave Indians, from 
whom he obtained five pack of skins, which 
were principally those of the marten. There 
were four Beaver Indians among them, who 
had bartered the greatest part of the above 
mentioned articles with them, before his ar- 
rival. They informed him that their rela- 
tions had more skins, but that they were 
afraid to venture with them, though they 
had been informed that people were to come 
with goods to barter for them. He gave 
these people a pair of ice chisels each, and 
other articles, and sent them away to con- 
duct their friends to the Slave Lake, where 
he was to remain during the succeedmg 
winter. 

We set three nets, and in a short time 
329 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROXTGH THE 

caught twenty fish of different kinds. In the 
dusk of the evening, the English chief arrived 
with a most pitiful account that he had like 
to have been drowned in trying to follow us ; 
and that the other men had also a very nar- 
row escape. Their canoe, he said, had broken 
on the swell, at some distance from the shore, 
but as it was flat, they had with his assist- 
ance been able to save themselves. He added, 
that he left them lamenting, lest they should 
not overtake me, if I did not wait for them ; 
he also expressed his apprehensions that they 
would not be able to repair their canoe. This 
evening I gave my men some rum to cheer 
them after their fatigues. 

Tuesday^ 25. — We rose this morning at a 
late hour, when we visited the nets, which 
produced but few fish: my people, indeed, 
partook of the stores of M. Le Roux. At 
eleven, the young Indians arrived, and re- 
proached me for having left them so far be- 
hind. They had killed two swans, and 
brought me one of them. The wind was 
Southerly throughout the day, and too strong 
for us to depart, as we were at the foot of a 
grand traverse. At noon I had an observa- 
tion, which gave 61. 29. North latitude. 
Such was the state of the weather, that we 
could not visit our nets. In the afternoon, 
the sky darkened, and there was lightning, 
accompanied with loud claps of thunder. 
330 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

The wind also veered round to the Westward, 
and blew a hurricane. 

Wednesday, 26. — It rained throughout the 
night, and till eight in the morning, without 
any alteration in the wind. The Indians 
went on a hunting excursion, but returned 
altogether without success in the evening. 
One of them was so unfortunate as to miss a 
moose-deer. In the afternoon there were 
heavy showers, with thunder, &c. 

Thursday, 27. — We embarked before four, 
and hoisted sail. At nine we landed to dress 
victuals, and wait for M. Le Eoux and the 
Indians. At eleven, we proceeded with fine 
and calm weather. At four in the afternoon, 
a light breeze sprang up to the Southward, to 
which we spread our sail, and at half past 
five in the afternoon, went on shore for the 
night. We then set our nets. The English 
chief and his ]3eople being quite exhausted 
with fatigue, he this morning expressed his 
desire to remain behind, in order to proceed 
to the country of the Beaver Indians, engag- 
ing at the same time, that he would return to 
Athabasca in the course of the winter. 

Friday, 28. — It blew very hard throughout 
the night, and this morning, so that we found 
it a business of some difficulty to get to our 
nets ; our trouble, however, was repaid by a 
considerable quantity of white fish, trout, &c. 
Towards the afternoon the wind increased. 
331 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

Two of the men who had been gathering ber- 
ries saw two moose-deer, with the tracks of 
buffaloes and rein-deer. About sunset we 
heard two shots, and saw a fire on the oppo- 
site side of the bay ; we accordingly made a 
large fire also, that our position might be de- 
termined. When we were all gone to bed, we 
heard the report of a gun very near us, and 
in a very short time the English chief pre- 
sented himself drenched with wet, and in 
much apparent confusion informed me that 
the canoe with his companions was broken to 
pieces; and that they had lost their fowling 
pieces, and the flesh of a rein-deer, which 
they had killed this morning. They were, 
he said, at a very short distance from us; 
and at the same time requested that fire might 
be sent to them, as they were starving with 
cold. They and his women, however, soon 
joined us, and were immediately accommo- 
dated with dry clothes. 

SaUirday, 29. — I sent the Indians on an 
hunting party, but they returned without suc- 
cess ; and they expressed their determination 
not to follow me any further, from their ap- 
prehension of being drowned. 

Sunday, 30. — We embarked at one this 
morning, and took from the nets a large 
trout, and twenty white fish. At siuirise a 
smart aft breeze sprang up, which w^afted us 
to M. Le Roux's house by two in the after- 
332 



NORTH WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICxV. 

noon. It was late before he and our Indians 
arrived; when, according to a promise which 
I had made the latter, I gave them a plenti- 
ful equipment of iron ware, ammunition, to- 
bacco, &c., as a recompense for the toil and 
inconvenience they had sustained with me. 

I proposed to the English chief to j^roceed 
to the country of the Beaver Indians, and 
bring them to dispose of their peltries to M. 
Le Roux, whom I intended to leave there the 
ensuing winter. He had already engaged to 
be at Athabasca, in the month of INIarch next, 
with plenty of furs. 

Monday, 31. — I sat up all night to make 
the necessary arrangements for the embarka- 
tion of this morning, and to prepare instruc- 
tions for M. Le Koux. We obtained some 
provisions here, and parted from him at five, 
with fine calm Aveather. It soon, however, 
became necessary to land on a small island, 
to stop the leakage of the canoe, which had 
been occasioned by the shot of an arrow under 
the water mark, by some Indian children. 
While this business was proceeding, we took 
the opportunity of dressing some fish. At 
twelve, the wind sprang up from the South- 
East, which was in the teeth of our direction, 
so that our progress was greatly impeded. I 
had an observation, which gave 62. 15. North 
latitude. We landed at seven in the evening, 
and pitched our tents. 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

Tuesday f 1. — We continued our voyage at 
five in the morning, the weather calm and 
fine, and passed the Isle a la Cache about 
twelve, but could not perceive the land, which 
was seen in our former passage. On passing 
the Carreboeuf Islands, at five in the after- 
noon, we saw land to the South by West, 
which we thought was the opposite side of 
the lake, stretching away to a great distance. 
We landed at half past six in the evening, 
when there was thunder, and an appearance 
of change in the weather. 

Wednesday, 2. — It rained and blew hard 
the latter part of the night. At half past 
five the rain subsided, when we made a trav- 
erse of twelve miles, and took in a good deal 
of water. At twelve it became calm, when I 
had an observation, which gave 61. 36. 
North latitude. At three in the afternoon, 
there was a slight breeze from the Westward 
which soon increased, when we hoisted sail, 
and took a traverse of twenty-four miles, for 
the point of the old Fort, where we arrived 
at seven, and stopped for the night. This 
traverse shortened our way three leagues ; in- 
deed we did not expect to have cleared the 
lake in such a short time. 

Thursday, 3. — It blew with great violence 

throughout the night, and at four in the 

morning we embarked, when we did not make 

more than five miles in three hours, without 

334 



NORTH WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

stopping; notwithstanding we were sheltered 
from the swell by a long bank. We now en- 
tered the small river, where the wind could 
have no effect upon us. There were frequent 
showers in the course of the day, and we en- 
camped at six in the evening. 

Friday, Jf. — The morning was dark and 
cloudy, nevertheless we embarked at five; 
but at ten it cleared up. We saw a few fowl, 
and at seven in the evening, went on shore 
for the night. 

Saturday, 5. — The weather continued to be 
cloudy. At five we proceeded, and at eight it 
began to rain very hard. In about half an 
hour we put to shore, and were detained for 
the remaining part of the da3^ 

Sunday, 6. — It rained throughout the night, 
with a strong North wind. Numerous flocks 
of wild fowl passed to the Southward ; at six 
in the afternoon, the rain, in some measure, 
subsided, and we embarked, but it soon re- 
turned with renew'xl violence; we, neverthe- 
less took the advantage of an aft wind, 
though it cost us a complete drenching. The 
hunters killed seven geese, and we pitched 
our tents at half past six in the evening. 

Monday, 7. — We were on the water at five 
this morning, with a head wind, accompanied 
by successive showers. At three in the after- 
noon, we ran the canoe on a stump, and it 
filled with water before she could be got to 
335 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

land. Two hours were employed in repairing 
her, and at seven in the evening, we took our 
station for the night. 

Tuesday, 8. — We renewed our voyage at 
"half past four in a thick mist which lasted 
till nine, when it cleared away, and fine 
weather succeeded. At three in the after- 
noon we came to the first carrying-place, Por- 
tage des Noyes, and encamped at the upper 
€nd of it to dry our clothes, some of which 
were almost rotten. 

Wednesday, 9. — We embarked at five in 
the morning, and our canoe was damaged on 
the men's shoulders, who were bearing it over 
the carrying-place, called Portage du Che- 
tique. The guide repaired her, however, 
while the other men were employed in carry- 
ing the baggage. The canoe Avas gummed at 
the carrying-place named the Portage de la 
Montague. After having passed the carrying- 
places, we encamped at the Dog River, at 
half past four in the afternoon, in a state of 
great fatigue^ The canoe was again gummed, 
and paddles were made to replace those that 
had been broken in ascending the rapids. A 
swan was the only animal we killed through- 
out the day. 

Thursday, 10. — There was rain and violent 

wind during the night : in the morning the 

former subsided and the latter increased. 

At half past five we continued our course 

336 



NORTH-WEST CONTIKENT OP AMERICA. 

with a North- Westerly wind. At seven we 
hoisted sail : in the forenoon there were fre- 
quent showers of rain and hail, and in the 
afternoon two showers of snow : the wind 
was at this time very strong, and at six in 
the evening we landed at a lodge of Kniste- 
neaux, consisting of three men and live wom- 
en and children. They were on their return 
from war, and one of them was very sick : 
they separated from the rest of their party in 
the enemy's country, from absolute hunger. 
After this separation, they met with a family 
of the hostile tribe, whom they destroyed. 
They were entirely ignorant of the fate of 
their friends, but imagined that they had re- 
turned to the Peace River, or had perished 
for want of food. I gave medicine to the 
sick,* and a small portion of ammunition to 

'■^ This man had conceived an idea, that the people 
with whom he had been at war, had thrown medi- 
cine at him, which had caused his present complaint, 
and that he despaired of recovery. The natives are 
so superstitious, that this idea alone was sufficient to 
kill him. Of this weakness I took advantage ; and 
assured him, that if he would never more go to war 
with such poor defenceless people, I would cure 
him. To this proposition he readily consented, and 
on my giving him medicine, which consisted of 
Turlington's balsam, mixed in water, I declared 
that it would lose its effect, if he was not sincere in 
the promise that he made me. In short, he actually 
recovered, was true to his engagements, and on all 
occasions manifested his gratitude to me. 
22 837 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH: THE 

the healthy ; which, indeed, they very much 
wanted, as they had entirely lived for the 
last six months on the produce of their bows 
and arrows. They appeared to have been 
great sufferers by their expedition. 

Friday, 11. — It froze hard during the 
night, and was very cold throughout the day, 
with an a^Dpearance of snow. We embarked 
at half past four in the morning, and con- 
tinued our course till six in the evening, 
when we landed for the night at our encamp' 
ment of the third of June. 

Saturday, 12. — The weather was cloudy, 
and also very cold. At night, we embarked 
with a North-East wind, and entered the 
Lake of the Hills. About ten, the wind 
veered to the West-ward, and was as strong 
as we could bear it with the high sail, so 
that we arrived at Chepewyan fort by three 
o'clock in the afternoon, where we found Mr. 
Macleod, with five men busily employed in 
building a new house. Here, then, we con- 
cluded this voyage, which had occupied the 
considerable space of one hundred and two 
days. 



338 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

OCTOBER 10, 1792. 

Having made every necessary preparation, 
I left Fort Chepewyan, to proceed up the 
Peace River. I had resolved to go as far as 
our most distant settlement, which would oc- 
cupy the remaining part of the season, it be- 
ing the route by which I proposed to attempt 
my next discovery, across the mountains 
from the source of that river ; for whatever 
distance I could reach this fall, would be a 
proportionate advancement of my voyage. 

In consequence of this design, I left the 
establishment of Fort Chepewyan, in charge 
of Mr. Roderic Mackenzie, accompanied by 
two canoes laden with the necessary articles 
for trade: we accordingly steered West for 
one of the branches that communicates with 
the Peace River, called the Pine River; at 
the entrance of which we waited for the other 
canoes, in order to take some supplies from 
them, as I had reason to apprehend they 
would not be able to keep up with us. We 
entered the Peace River at seven in the morn- 
ing of the 12th, taking a Westerly course. 
It is evident, that all the land between it and 
the Lake of the Hills, as far as the Elk River, 
339 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

is formed by the quantity of earth and mud, 
which is carried down by the streams of those 
two great rivers. In this space there are sev- 
eral lakes. The Lake Clear Water, which is 
the deepest. Lake Vassieu, and the Athabasca 
Lake, which is the largest of the three, and 
whose denomination in the Kneisteneaux lan- 
guage implies, a flat, low, swampy country, 
subject to inundations. The two last lakes 
are now so shallow, that from the cause just 
mentioned, there is every reason to expect, 
tliat in a few years they will have exchanged 
their character, and become extensive forests. 

This country is so level, that, at some sea- 
sons, it is entirely overflowed, which accounts 
for the periodical influx and reflux of thd 
waters between the Lake of the Hills and the 
Peace Kiver. 

On the 13th at noon we came to the Peace 
Point ; from which, according to the report 
of my interpreter, the river derives its name ; 
it was the spot where the Knisteneaux and 
Beaver Indians settled their dispute ; the real 
name of the river and point being that of 
the land which was the object of conten- 
tion. 

When this country was formerly invaded 
by the Knisteneaux, they found the Beaver 
Indians inhabiting the land about Portage la 
Roche ; and the adjoining tribe were those 
whom they called slaves. They drove both 
340 



NORTH-WEST CONTmENT OF AMERICA. 

these tribes before them; when the latter 
proceeded down the river from the Lake of 
the Hills, in consequence of which that part 
of it obtained the name of the Slave River. 
The former proceeded up the river; and when 
the Knisteneaux made peace with them, this 
place was settled to be the boundary. 

We continued our voyage, and I did not 
find the current so strong in this river as I 
had been induced to believe, though this, per- 
haps, was not the period to form a correct 
notion of that circumstance, as well as of the 
breadth, the water being very low ; so that 
the stream has not appeared to me to be in 
any part that I have seen, more than a quar- 
ter of a mile wide. 

The weather was cold and raw, so as ta 
render our progress unpleasant ; at the same 
time we did not relax in our expedition, and, 
at three on the afternoon of the 17th we ar- 
rived at the falls. The river at this place is 
about four hundred ^^ards broad, and the fall 
about twenty feet high: the first carrying 
place is eight hundred paces in length, and 
the last, which is about a mile onwards, is 
something more than two-thirds of that dis- 
tance. Here we found several fires, from 
which circumstance we concluded, that the 
canoes destined for this quarter, which left 
the fort some days before us, could not be far 
a-head. The weather continued to be very 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

cold, and the snow that fell during the night 
was several inches deep. 

On the morning of the 18th, as soon as we 
got out of the draught of the fall, the wind 
being at North-East, and strong in our fa- 
vour, we hoisted sail, which carried us on at 
a considerable rate against the current, and 
passed the Loon River before twelve o'clock; 
from thence we soon came along the Grande 
Isle, at the upper end of which we encamped 
for the night. It now froze very hard : in- 
deed, it had so much the appearance of whi- 
ter, that I began to entertain some alarm lest 
we might be stopped by the ice : we therefore 
set off at three o'clock in the morning of the 
19th, and about eight we landed at the Old 
Establishment. 

The passage to this place from Athabasca 
having been surveyed by M. Yandrieul, for- 
merly in the Company's service, I did not 
think it necessary to give any particular at- 
tention to it ; I shall, however, just observe, 
that the course in general from the Lake of 
the Hills to the falls, is Westerly, and as 
much to the North as the South of it, from 
thence it is about West-South- West to this 
fort. 

The country in general is low from our en- 
trance of the river to the falls, and with the 
exception of a few open parts covered with 
grass, it is clothed with wood. Where the 
342 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

banks are very low the soil is good, being 
composed of the sediment of the river and 
putrefied leaves and vegetables. Where they 
are more elevated, they display a face of yel- 
lowish clay, mixed with small stones. On a 
line with the falls, and on either side of the 
river, there are said to be very extensive 
plains, which afford pasture to numerous herds 
of buffaloes. Our people a-head slept here 
last night, and, from their carelessness, the 
fire was communicated to and burned down, 
the large house, and was proceeding fast to 
the smaller buildings when we arrived to ex- 
tinguish it. 

We continued our voyage, the course of the 
river being South-West by West one mile 
and a quarter. South by East one mile, South- 
West by South three miles, West by South 
one mile, South-South- West two miles. South 
four miles, South-West seven miles and a 
half, South by West one mile, North-North - 
West two miles and a half. South five miles 
and a quarter, South-West one mile and a 
half, North-East by East three miles and a 
half, and South-East by East one mile. 

We overtook Mr. Finlay, with his canoes, 
who was encamped near the fort of which he 
was going to take the charge, during the en- 
suing winter, and made every necessary pre- 
parative for a becoming appearance on our ar- 
rival the following morning. Although I had 
343 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

been since the year 1787, in the Athabasca 
country, I had never yet seen a single native 
of that part of it which we had now reached 

At six o'clock in the morning of the 20th, 
we landed before the house amidst the rejoic- 
ing and tiring of the people, who were ani- 
mated with the prospect of again indulging 
themselves in the luxury of rum, of which 
tliey had been deprived since the beginning of 
May ; as it is a practice throughout the North- 
West neither to sell or give any rum to the 
natives during the summer. There was at 
this time only one chief with his people, the 
other two being hourly expected with their 
bands ; and on the 21st and 22d they all ar- 
rived except the war chief and fifteen men. 
As they very soon expressed their desire of 
the expected regale, I called them together, 
to the number of forty-two hunters, or men 
capable of bearing arms, to offer some advice, 
which would be equally advantageous to them 
and to us, and I strengthened my admonition 
with a nine gallon cask of reduced rum, and 
a quantity of tobacco. At the same time I 
observed, that as I should not often visit 
them, I had instanced a greater degree of lib- 
erality than they had been accustomed to. 

The number of people belonging to this 
establishment amounts to about three hun- 
dred, of which, sixty are hunters. Although 
they appeal" from their language to be of the 
344 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

same stock as the Chepewyans, they differ 
from them iu appearance, manners, and cus- 
toms, as they have adopted those of their 
former enemies, the Knisteneaux ; they speak 
their language, as well as cut their hair, paint, 
and dress like them, and possess their immod- 
erate fondness for liquor and tobacco. This 
description, however, can be applied only to 
the men, as the women are less adorned even 
than those of the Chepewyan tribes. We 
could not observe, without some degree of 
surprize, the contrast between the neat and 
decent appearance of the men, and the nasti- 
ness of the women. I am disposed, however, 
to think, that this circumstance is generally 
owing to the extreme submission and abase- 
ment of the latter : for I observed, that one 
of the chiefs allowed two of his wives more 
liberty and familiarity than were accorded to 
the others, as well as a more becoming ex- 
terior, and their appearance was proportion- 
ably pleasing; I shall, however, take a future 
opportunity to speak more at large on this 
subject. 

There were frequent changes of the weather 
in the course of the day, and it froze rather 
hard in the night. The thickness of the ice 
in the morning was a sufficient notice for me 
to proceed. I accordingly gave the natives 
such good counsel as might influence their be- 
haviour, communicated my directions to Mr. 
345 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

Findlay for his future conduct, and took my 
leave under several vollies of musketry, on 
the morning of the 23d. I had already dis- 
patched my loaded canoes two days before, 
with directions to continue their progress 
without waiting for me. Our course was 
South- South-East one mile and an half. South 
three quarters ; East seven miles and a half, 
veeriijg gradually to the West four miles and 
an half. South-East by South three miles, 
South-East three miles and an half, East- 
South-East to Long Point three miles, South- 
West one mile and a quarter, East by North 
four miles and three quarters. West three 
miles and an half, West-South- West one mile, 
East by South five miles and a half. South 
three miles and three quarters, South-East by 
South three miles, East-South-East three 
miles, East-North-East one mile, when there 
was a river that flowed in on the right. East 
two miles and an half, East-South-East half 
a mile, South-East by South seven miles and 
an half. South two miles, South-South-East 
three miles and an half; in the course of 
which we passed an island South by West, 
where a rivulet flowed in on the right, one 
mile. East one mile and an half. South five 
miles, South-East by South four miles and an 
half, South-West one mile, South-East by 
East four miles and an half, West-South- 
West half a mile. South -West six miles and 
34G 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

three quarters, South-East by South one mile 
and an half, South one mile and an half; 
South-East by South two miles. South- West 
three quarters of a mile, South-East by South 
two miles and an half. East by South one 
mile and three quarters. South two miles, 
South-East one mile and an half, South- 
South-East half a mile. East by South two 
miles and an half, Korth-East three miles, 
South- West by West short distance to the 
establishment of last year, East-North-East 
four miles, South-South-East one mile and 
three quarters. South half a mile, South-East 
by South three quarters of a mile, North-East 
by East one mile. South three miles, South- 
South-East one mile and three quarters. South 
by East four miles and an half, South-West 
three miles. South by East two miles. South 
by West one mile and an half, South-West 
two miles. South by West foar miles and an 
half, South-West one mile and an half, and 
South by East three miles. Here we arrived 
at the forks of the river ; the Eastern branch 
appearing to be not more than half the size 
of the Western one. We pursued the latter, 
in a course South-West by West six miles, 
and landed on the first of November at the 
place which was designed to be my winter 
residence : indeed, the weather had been so 
cold and disagreeable, that I was more than 
once apprehensive of our being stopped by 
347 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

the ice, and, after all, it required the utmost 
exertions of which my men were capable to 
prevent it ; so that on their arrival they were 
quite exhausted. Nor were their labours at 
an end, for there was not a single hut to re- 
ceive us : it was, however, now in my power 
to feed and sustain them in a more comfort- 
able manner. 

We found two men here who had been sent 
forward last spring, for the purpose of squar- 
ing timber for the erection of a house, and 
cutting pallisades, &c., to surround it. With 
them was the principal chief of the place, 
and about seventy men, who had been anx- 
iously waiting for our arrival, and received 
us with every mark of satisfaction and regard 
which they could express. If we might judge 
from the quantity of powder that was wasted 
on our arrival, they certainly had not been in 
want of ammunition, at least during the sum- 
mer. 

The banks of the river, from the falls, are 
in general lofty, except at low woody points, 
accidentally formed in the manner I have al- 
ready mentioned : they also displayed, in all 
their broken parts, a face of clay, intermixed 
with stone; in some places there likewise 
appeared a black mould. 

In the summer of 1788, a small spot was 
cleared at the Old Establishment, which is 
situated on a bank thirty feet above the level 
348 



KORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

of the river, aiid was sown with turnips, car- 
rots, and parsnips. The first grew to a large 
size, and the others thrived very well. An 
ex^)eriment was also made with potatoes and 
cabbage, the former of which were success- 
ful ; but for want of care the latter failed. 
The next winter the person who had under- 
taken this cultivation, suffered the potatoes 
which had been collected for seed, to catch 
the frost, and none had been since brought to 
this place. There is not the least doubt but 
the soil would be very productive, if a proper 
attention was given to its preparation. In 
the fall of the year 1787, when I first arrived 
at Athabasca, Mr. Pond was settled on the 
banks of the Elk Kiver, where he remained 
for three years, and had formed as fine a 
kitchen garden as I ever saw in Canada. 

In addition to the wood which flourished 
below the fall, these banks produce the cy- 
press tree, arrow-wood, and the thorn. On 
either side of the river, though invisible from 
it, are extensive plains, which abound in buf- 
faloes, elks, wolves, foxes, and bears. At a 
considerable distance to the Westward, is an 
immense ridge of high land or mountains, 
which take an oblique direction from below 
the falls, and are inhabited by great numbers 
of deer, which are seldom disturbed, but 
when the Indians go to hunt the beaver in 
those parts; and, being tired with the flesh 
349 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

of the latter, vary their food with that of the 
former. This ridge bears the name of the 
Deer Mountain. Opposite to our present sit- 
uation, are beautiful meadows, with various 
animals grazmg on them, and groves of pop- 
lars irregularly scattered over them. 

My tent was no sooner pitched, than I sum- 
moned the Indians together, and gave each of 
them about four inches of Brazil tobacco, a 
dram of spirits, and lighted the pipe. As they 
had been very troublesome to my predecessor, 
I informed them that I had heard of their mis- 
conduct, and was come among them to inquire 
into the truth of it. I added also that it 
would be an established rule with me to treat 
them with kindness, if their behaviour should 
be such as to deserve it; but, at the same 
time, that I should be equally severe if they 
failed in those returns which I had a right to 
expect from them. I then presented them 
with a quantity of rum, which I recommended 
to be used with discretion ; and added some 
tobacco, as a token of peace. They, in re- 
turn, made me the fairest promises ; and hav- 
ing expressed the pride they felt on beholding 
me in their country, took their leave. 

I now proceeded to examine my situation ; 
and it was with great satisfaction I observed 
that the two men who had been sent hither 
some time before us, to cut and square tim- 
ber for our future operations, had employed 
350 



i^ORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

the intervening period with activity and skill. 
They had formed a sufficient quantity of pal- 
lisades of eighteen feet long, and seven inches 
in diameter, to inclose a square spot of an 
hundred and twenty feet ; they had also dug 
a ditch of three feet deep to receive them ; 
and had prepared timber, planks, &c., for the 
erection of a house. 

I was, however, so much occupied in set- 
tling matters with the Indians, and equipping 
them for their winter hunting, that I could 
not give my attention to any other object, till 
the 7th, when I set all hands at work to con- 
struct the fort, build the house, and form 
store houses. On the preceding day the river 
began to run with ice, which we call the last 
of the navigation. On the 11th wq had a 
South- West wind, with snow. On the 16thj 
the ice stopped in the other fork, which wai 
not above a league from us, across the inter- 
vening neck of land. The water in this 
branch continued to Hoav till the 22d, when 
it was arrested also by the frost, so that we 
had a passage across the river, which would 
last to the latter end of the succeeding April. 
This was a fortunate circumstance, as we de- 
pended for our support upon what the hunters 
could provide for us, and they had been pre- 
vented by the running of the ice from cross- 
ing the river. They now, however, very 
shortly procured us as much fresh meat ?is we 
351 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 



;^ 



required, though it was for some time a toil- 
some business to my people, for as there was 
not yet a sufficient quantity of snow to run 
sledges, they were under the necessity of 
loading themselves with the spoils of the 
chase. 

On the 27th the frost was so severe that 
the axes of the workmen became almost as 
brittle as glass. The weather was very vari- 
ous until the 2d of December, when my Faren- 
heit's thermometer was injured by an acci- 
dent, which rendered it altogether useless. 
The table on page 353, therefore, from the 
16th of November, to this unfortunate cir- 
cumstance, is the only correct account of the 
weather which I can offer. 

In this situation, removed from all those 
ready aids which add so much to the com- 
fort, and, indeed is a principal characteristic 
of civilized life, I was under the necessity of 
employing my judgment and experience in 
accessory circumstances by no means con- 
nected with the habits of my life, or the en- 
terprise in which I was immediately engaged. 
I was now among the people who had no 
knowledge whatever of remediable applica- 
tion to those disorders and accidents to which 
man is liable in every part of the globe, in 
the distant wilderness, as in the peopled city. 
They had not the least acquaintance with that 
priiftitive piedicine, which consists in an ex- 
352 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF A^IERICA. 









Strong wind. 

At 10 last night 1 below 0. 

River stopped. 

Ice drove, and water rises. 

Ice drove again. 


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ditto. 
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Clear. 

ditto. 

ditto. 

ditto. 

ditto. 
Cloudy. 

ditto. 


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353 



JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE 

perience of the healing virtues of herbs and 
plants, and is frequently found among unciv- 
ilised and savage nations. This circumstance 
now obliged me to be their physician and 
surgeon, as a woman with a swelled breast, 
which had been lacerated with flint stones for 
the cure of it, presented herself to my atten- 
tion, and by cleanliness, poultices, and heal- 
ing salve, I succeeded in producing a cure. 
One of my people, also, who was at work in 
the woods, was attacked with a sudden pain 
aear the first joint of his thumb, which dis- 
abled him from holding an axe. On examin- 
ing his arm, I was astonished to find a nar- 
row red stripe, about half an inch wide, from 
his thumb to his shoulder ; the pain was vio- 
lent, and accompanied with chilliness and 
shivering. This was a case that appeared to 
be beyond my skill, but it was necessary to 
do something towards relieving the mind of 
the patient, though I might be unsuccessful 
in removing his complaint. I accordingly pre- 
pared a kind of volatile linament of rum and 
soap, with which I ordered his arm to be 
rubbed, but with little or no effect. He was 
in a raving state throughout the night, and the 
red stripe not only increased, but was also ac- 
companied with the appearance of several 
blotches on his body, and pains in his stoui- 
ach ; the propriety of taking some blood from 
him now occurred to me, and I ventured, from 
354 



NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 

absolute necessity, to perform that operation 
for the first time, and with aji effect that jus- 
tified the treatment. The following night 
afforded him rest, and in a short time he re- 
gained his former health and activity. 

I was very much surprised on walking in 
the woods at such an inclement period of the 
year, to be saluted with the singing of birds, 
while they seemed by their vivacity to be ac- 
tuated by the invigorating power of a more 
genial season. Of these birds the male was 
something less than the robin; part of his 
body is of a delicate fawn colour, and his 
neck, breast, and belly, of a deep scarlet; 
the wings are black, edged with fawn colour, 
and two white stripes running across them ; 
the tail is variegated, and the head crowned 
with a tuft. The female is smaller than the 
male, and of a fawn colour throughout, ex- 
cept on the neck, which is enlivened by an 
hue of glossy yellow. I have no doubt but 
they are constant inhabitants of this climate, 
as well as some other small birds which we 
fjaw, of a grey colour. 



355 



<, 



